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Discussion Starter · #181 ·
It can be put down where the OE battery is. It is smaller but I do not know if it can be removed without taking the fender off.

Expensive... depends on how you look at it.The factory battery in my car lasted 13 years. This battery will last 8-10 years in other vehicles when compared to the OE battery that needed to be replaced after 5. So I am thinking I should get about 20 years use from this battery. The MSRP is 400.00 but they can be gotten for 250.00.

I can tell you that you can leave the car sit for 3 months without having to charge it or disconnect it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #182 ·
well the radiator, CAC and charge pipes got dropped off at the welders today. I finally found someone that gave me an estimate based on my description of the work that was needed. and when I dropped everything off and he looked at it he didn't change his original estimate. The guy actually said that I did an exceptional job at describing what needed to be done and what he pictured in his head was almost spot on with what I brought in. He is also going to price it to the closest 15 minutes.

I wanted to have the bead at the edges of the pipes for the clamps to sit against. helps to keep the couplings from blowing off. 2 of the charge pipe ends already have the bead on it and I asked if he had the tool to make it. He said he didn't but he is going to look into getting one. He is going to make the bead by welding around the end of the pipe. I said that would work as the bead isn't there for sealing anything it's only there to keep the coupling and clamp from sliding off the pipe.

I mentioned I could use Aquanet hairspray on the outside of the pipe and the inside of the coupling and then clamp it. He looked at me with confusion. I asked if he has ever heard of that hairspray and he said yes. Then I said remember the hairstyles in the mid 80's?? That hairspray is a mild adhesive. He laughed and agreed with me that it was. I said the only thing is it's a pain to get the coupling off if it needs to be taken apart.

Super cool guy. Big shop. He does a lot of structural work and he does some dabbling into automotive. He wants to get into more of the automotive stuff specifically doing welding work for DIY'ers. I said there are a lot of us out there and I can tell you that I have called no less then 20 fabrication shops and welders and no one wanted to give a general idea as to how long it would take or they had an hourly rate of 200 bucks or they said they would get back to me and never did. I said add it to the list of services for the business on google maps. you will get a decent chunk of business I am sure.

He said he actually makes more money doing the kind of work he is doing for me. If it's a large job the job is quoted and it's not by the hour. where as my job being as small as it is by the hour is how it's done That is the reason why he is going to look into getting the beading tool. They only cost a couple hundred bucks so it's not super expensive.

I am running into a bump in the road with the intake pipe and air filter. I don't want the air filter dropped in between the CAC and the radiator because it will end up sucking in hot air that comes off the CAC. Because I tipped the radiator forward there is not a lot of room between the radiator and the bumper cover. and there definitely isn't enough space between the impact beam and the hood to fit a proper size cone filter. There is the ram air connection on the hood that sits above the impact beam area and if I ditch using the cone filter and instead go with a pleated flat filter I can make an air box to sit into the space I do have and when the hood closes the opening from the ram air would meet with the air box. My only concern with this is I do not think enough air is going to be able to get pulled through that ram air. So my idea is to add weighted rubber flaps inside of the air box so if there is too much negatitive pressure in the box the flaps will get pulled open and allow the needed air to enter the box.



I am going to draw it up this evening.
 
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I have had several batteries installed in the trunk over the years. Wet cell, dry cell, AGM and now Lithium and a dry cell. The trunk is not actually a "closed" system. There are various paths for air exchange including the vent in the right rear of the trunk liner, adjustment holes for the Coil Overs, the water drains both in front of and over the license plate. The buttress latches are not generally air tight and will allow venting. As the temperature cycles over the course of a day or months in storage, if there was not air flow through the trunk it would generate forces on the trunk lid and sides of the trunk that could be deleterious.

My trunk batteries are isolated from the car power system and I have separate tender connections for each that allow me to plug in the tender from under the rear bumper cover. Works well for my application.
 

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Discussion Starter · #184 ·
While the trunk is not a "closed" area. It is a closed area because of it's design. The pressure inside of the trunk would have to increase to a point that would push open the vents to the outside. It is also considered a closed design because there is no airflow through it. It is only designed to let excess pressure out and not fresh air in. without there being an exchange of air the amount of hydrogen that can build up inside of the trunk could get really high. Because the trunk is not a sealed compartment from the passenger area those gasses can and will end up in the passenger area...

If you look at the design of the HVAC system in a vehicle there is a large box on the engine side of the firewall and at the top there is a grate that can be seen when the hood is closed. The sole purpose of this box is to separate water from the air that gets blown into the passenger compartment. Why would they not save a whole lot of work and just put the intake under the hood on the engine side of the firewall. The hood would keep water from getting in there so that giant box wouldn't be needed.. Fumes in general and out gassing from the battery is why. If you ever look at the design of a vehicle that has the battery in the trunk the battery is placed into a compartment that has no venting between that compartment and the passenger area. There is also going to be 2 vents in that compartment one that allows air in and the other that allows air out.

The vent that is in the solstice has a rubber flap on it that only opens outwards. no air can get in through that flap. A lot of the drainage systems and tubes also have one way rubber nipples on the ends of the tubes that allow water out but nothing is allowed in, or so that is the way it is supposed to work. A lot of time debris gets into the nipple which doesn't allow it to close properly but that is outside of it's designed purpose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #185 ·
A couple of days ago I sent an e-mail to Davis Craig the company that makes the electric water pump. I wanted to pass on a couple of suggestions to them. Here were my suggestions.

Make the controller round, like a standard aftermarket gauge. This would make it easier to mount.
Add a PWM output for controlling a variable speed fan.
Add additional temperature sensor inputs.
Bring the controller into the 21st century by adding WiFi so a user can connect to it to make the setup process easier and also for displaying diagnostic information.
Display the speed of the water pump in a percentage scale
Display the speed of the fan in a percentage scale
Add a trigger input for air conditioning.

I went into a little bit of detail suggesting the use of a processor called ESP32 and briefly touched base on it's cost and capabilities.

The next day I gt a phone call from Sydney Australia. I almost didn't answer it but I remembered that Davis Craig is located in Australia. I was expecting to get an e-mail in response to my suggestions or to not hear from them at all. I was surprised they called me. It was the head of development/engineering that called me.

I was on the phone with the guy for about 2 hours. He agreed with me about the controller being made like a gauge. The current controller was designed before he started working there. It has been 5 years since the last redesign of the controller and he said that they are due to do an upgrade/update to it. He had looked into adding WiFi a few years ago and doing it would raise the cost of the unit and he couldn't justify it because it didn't add any real functionality. it just made it a little easier to set the unit up.

I went over in detail the PWM control of the coolant fan and they would not need to do any R&D for the fan controller because there are several low cost controllers that are already made. They would have to charge way more then what one can be purchased for. I said to him all they have to do is design the fan PWM output so the user is able to configure it. To be able to set the min and max duty cycles, frequency, voltage and polarity. Leave it up to the user to input the values that would allow it to work with their vehicle. The data can be compiled over time so the user would be able to look up what the settings would be for a specific vehicle. I also said this works for stand alone operation as well. A user would be able to install a variable speed coolant fan system into a vehicle that does not currently have one and that it would work with any DC fan that is already in the vehicle.

I said by adding additional sensor inputs the user could add a flow gauge or additional temperature sensors. If there was a temperature sensor before and after the radiator cooling system performance could be monitored and the controller can be programmed to learn what the efficiency of the radiator is and what speed the fan needs to be at in order to get the output temperature of the coolant to be on target.

I went over a slew of things with the guy and we are going to put together a proof of concept that he will be able to show to the people above him. I told him that we should be able to add a large amount of additional functionality, make the unit more user friendly, make it installation friendly while having the cost to produce be lower then what it is currently.

I did up a quick PCB design with the components needed and sent it over to him. It is cheaper to build, uses less components then the current design and has a lower build cost. It also allows for software updates over WiFi and the firmware is easier to maintain/change. It also has a bunch of additional inputs and outputs for future use. It can be connected to an aftermarket ECM so it would be able to communicate with ECMs using a variety of communications protocols. The processor has I2C, I2S, UART, SPI, CAN and Bluetooth built into it.

He is waiting for the OK to send me the source code for the current controller as we want to use that as a starting point.

He said the people above him are going to be blown away by the added abilities and future expansion possibilities. Because of the sheer number of inputs and outputs the single controller can also handle the cooling needs for gear boxes. The fan controllers don't have to be used on fans I said to him. They can be used to control the speed of an electric pump, even pumps they do not manufacture. pumps designed to move thick fluids like a differential.

he asked me if they would have to develop an application to be able to set the unit up or for diagnostics. I said nope. The WiFi gets set up as an access point and it would also be a DHCP and DNS server so the user connects to it using a password and then open up their favorite web browser and types in a web address and the setup page for the controller loads. Works with any device that has WiFi and a web browser. Everything needed is on the controller no additional applications need to be written.
 

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Discussion Starter · #186 ·
I got the water pump controller all mounted and the wiring is ran.

For those of you that like to have clean wiring connector X1 pin D5 on the under hood fuse box goes to fuse 12 which is an open position. Because the terminals are female in the clip you can take the wire and fold it over itself and then fold it over itself again and stick it in the port in the clip. Little bit of super glue to hold the wire in the port and you are good to go. The trick is you want the stripped wire to be tight in the port this way when the male end goes into the wire it will be a good tight connection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
Radiator, CAC piping and CAC should be ready for pickup tomorrow. I have to track down some 1/0 terminal rings I am sure I can find them locally so I will pick those up tomorrow as well. I have to figure out what I did with my large gauge crimpers. I don't know where in the hell I put them. LOL.

I also tore down one of the vented fenders I made. I never liked how they cam out form the get go and I am redoing them.. I ordered up the blocks needed for block sanding the hood and fenders and that should make it a bit easier. My hope is to at least get some rattle can yellow onto the front of the car instead of having ti just primered. I have to finish adding a couple of canards to the front bumper cover and also make the rear diffuser. I am going to make a mock up of the rear diffuser today from cardboard and see how that goes. I also am going to make a front splitter for the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #188 ·
Got the parts from the welder today... YAY.. going to put then pieces in. I am tired of sanding and polishing the friggin intake and charge pipes. So I wrapped them.

Brown Wood Amber Tints and shades Art
 

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Discussion Starter · #189 ·
Radiator is installed, charge pipes are installed, fan is installed. I have to finish putting the intake in and I am rerouting some of the vacuum lines and coolant lines over in the turbo area. I didn't like How I had them ran. it was kind of a jungle of hoses over by the turbo. I ordered another 10 feet of 4an hose and that came in today. I am going to make some of the lines longer and instead of coming out from under the turbo at the front I am going to come out the side. I ran short on the heat shield I used for the wiring harness and lines so I also ordered more of that. Not gonna run short this time as I have 16sqft of it..


As you see in the image above I decided to wrap the intake and charge pipes in a gold tape. That tape is actually a radiant barrier and it supposed to keep the heat from the engine bay from heating up the aluminum piping. I dunno how well it actually works. I bought it only for the looks and because I got tired of sanding the charge and intake pipes every time I bumped them with something. I have done it like 4 times and I had enough with doing it. I knew when I dropped the stuff off to get welded it would get scratched and that it did. I ordered the wrap the day after dropping the stuff off to be welded and it arrived while I was out picking the parts up from the welders. Timing worked out perfect.


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I also have to finish up the fenders. I didn't like how they came out when I added the vents to them so I am going about it a different way. I bought a MAP gas torch so now I am able to heat aluminum fast enough so I can bend it without having to make kerf cuts in it so it doesn't buckle. What I did last time was I used fiberglass and attached the frame for the fender to the fender. I was brain dead when I did this because I lost a lot of adjustment of the fenders. Being able to bend some aluminum L channel is going to allow me make the fender rigid since I have cut the diagonal piece out of the frame.

I have to pull the intake manifold back off AGAIN!!. I need to attach the wire that runs to the battery to the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #190 ·
I am close to being finished up. I have some odds and ends to do but not a huge amount left. I ended up wrapping all of hoses and wiring harnesses again. I found a better way to wrap them that allows me to put them into clamps and tie downs a whole lot easier. It looks way better as well. I have to finish up putting those clamps on and that will be done. Gotta finish the paint job on the valve cover and get that put on. Still have to locate my hydraulic wire crimpers to attach the ends onto the 1/0 wire for the battery and I have to locate a suitable location in the rear of the vehicle that I will be able to connect the ground for the battery. Gotta pull the intake manifold back out to attach the 1/0 wire to the starter.

My plan for today is to get another coat of paint on the valve cover, finish up those clamps and get the battery connected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #192 ·
Made a lot of progress today. I have to wait to finish up some of the hoses because the clamps attach to the valve cover and I don't wanna size things out until I get that on.I have the battery cable connected to the starter and the intake manifold is put back in. The intake and air cleaner are also attached. I have to get under the front and tighten down the CAC clamps. I am going to look and see if I can find reducing elbows with like a 15° bend in it. I was a smidge off when I aligned the pieces of pipe to be welded. Not a huge deal as I can make the connection it ends up tipping the charge pipe so it doesn't go straight down to the CAC, it has to be at an angle. It's more of an aesthetic thing really. The charge pipes are also 2.5" OD and the CAC is close to 2.25" OD, while I can make this connection using a 2.5" ID coupling I would rather have it be really snug.

I am really close to getting this thing fired up. This weekend I am thinking will be when it happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #193 ·
welp I now have to wait for parts. I went to attach the lower radiator hose to the radiator and it don't fit. because of the front frame brace. The angle the fitting was welded on is at just the perfect angle to cause the hose to hit the frame in a manner that kinks it. 2° angle change up or down and it wouldn't kink. So I have to order up a 16AN 45° hose end. I am also going to order up a stainless steel compression springs that are a tad under 7/8" in OD. The upper hose has to make an s turn and not that it's a tight turn it's a tight turn for the hose and it starts to collapse a tiny bit. I want to make sure that it doesn't fully collapse when the hose gets hot and the spring inside of the hose will keep it from doing that.

I haven't decided if the spring is the right way to go because of the drop in flow it is going to cause. I can but some additional fittings and make hard 90's instead of larger radius bends in the hose which would be far less flow loss. but with the addition of the spring it may end up being more of a flow restriction. I gotta crunch the numbers on that one.

figure i will look for the couplings at the same time.
 
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welp I now have to wait for parts. I went to attach the lower radiator hose to the radiator and it don't fit. because of the front frame brace. The angle the fitting was welded on is at just the perfect angle to cause the hose to hit the frame in a manner that kinks it. 2° angle change up or down and it wouldn't kink. So I have to order up a 16AN 45° hose end. I am also going to order up a stainless steel compression springs that are a tad under 7/8" in OD. The upper hose has to make an s turn and not that it's a tight turn it's a tight turn for the hose and it starts to collapse a tiny bit. I want to make sure that it doesn't fully collapse when the hose gets hot and the spring inside of the hose will keep it from doing that.

I haven't decided if the spring is the right way to go because of the drop in flow it is going to cause. I can but some additional fittings and make hard 90's instead of larger radius bends in the hose which would be far less flow loss. but with the addition of the spring it may end up being more of a flow restriction. I gotta crunch the numbers on that one.

figure i will look for the couplings at the same time.
Always a few challenges on the way to excellence!
 

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Discussion Starter · #195 ·
yup. F'in Hahn Racecraft using an oddball size pipe on their CAC. 2 3/8" OD. try and find a reducing 15° 2 3/8 to 2 1/2 silicone coupling. I can't even find a straight one. I did find a company that makes a stainless steel reinforced double hump 2 3/8" coupler. The double hump will allow me to make the 15° bend. I contacted the distributor for the company and spoke with them about the 2 3/8" coupling sliding over a 2.5" OD beaded pipe. The guy said it's going to be a heap load of fun to do and that I should soak the coupling in really hot water for 15 minutes or so before trying to put it on. This will allow it to stretch easier.

I found out that I didn't make a boo boo with the angle at all. It's off a little bit because the piece of pipe was not long enough to continue along the curve it was making. Had it been 2" longer it would have lined up better. if I use a straight coupler it wants to bend it funk and it partially kinks. It's not that bad and shouldn't be an issue but it wouldn't be right. by using the double hump coupling it will make the 2" additional arc I need to make the connection without any kinks or wavy gravy in the coupling.

I can scratch this weekend for getting the car done. The red and black 16AN fittings I can only find at Jegs in red and black. They are also the lowest price for them as well. Their shipping sucks ass tho.

So I have those few things ordered up and the parts from jegs said it would ship today and it's still "in processing" so they haven't shipped it like they said they would. How kind of them.


I have some updated photos for you folks. Got the valve cover on and I made sure to give the pieces that move a good bath in oil before putting the cover on. I used gear oil because of it being pretty thick. Parts place was out of assembly lube and they have been for 3 months. so I am not expecting they are going to get more anytime soon and the clerk said the same thing.

Here are the photos for your viewing pleasure. Eye Candy!!

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Auto part Jewellery Metal Fashion accessory Event



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2 layers of fiberglass cloth and heat shield on each hose then a layer of fiber reinforced heat tape spiraled down the whole length of each hose. That should be sufficient shielding for the hoses and wiring in that area.

I really do like the way I did the wiring for the coil packs and VVT solenoids. I am going to ditch the COP (Coil On Plug) setup and I will use coil packs made for an LS instead which are coil near plug. That will make it a whole lot easier to make a plate to cover up the wiring. The coils from the LS are the same number of wire and it uses a 5v trigger just like the solstice does. There will be some changes that need to be made to the tune to get the most out of them. Get a reputable brand like MSD or Accell. The LS performance coils do not put out any more voltage then the factory ones do but they are able to recover a whole lot faster which at high RPM results in the voltage output being higher. This happens because when the coil is told to fire it does so fully charged or not and due to the speed in which spark needs to occur at high RPM the sock coils end up firing with only a partial charge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #196 ·
So I have been making some headway. I finally got all the hoses and lines in their final places. The AN fittings for the radiator hoses cam in today and I got those put in and the lines attached. That worked out fine and I didn't have to us a spring at all. I ended up buying 2 45° fittings which eliminates the S turns in the upper hose and the lower hose I had a fitting for. I am waiting on the CAC couplers and a 90° reducing coupler for the air filter. I will have to order an air filter as well as the 6" diameter cone filter is to but and it comes into contact with the hood when I open and close it. I am going to go with a cylinder shaped filter that is longer and that will give me a lot more airflow then what I have. It will take a month to get the filter because they are back ordered. Took e a while to hammer out the mat so I know how much filter area I need for a minimum size and that minimum size fills the space I have available, lucked out there. The size is 5.5" in diameter and 7" long which is right at the 116 square inches of filter area. I am basing this off a K&N filter allowing 6CFM per square inch with the media being in an accordion and not laying flat. I cannot find any information on whether the flow rate is measured when the filter media is flattened out or not.

I spent 3/4s of yesterday fixing the SAE quick disconnect tube on the intake pipe that I accidentally folder over and kinked which resulted in it breaking when I bent it back. That kind of pissed me off a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #197 ·
Here are some photos of the final line placements. Well except for the radiator. I have to take more photos with that finished up.

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the intake pipe no longer cuts across the front of the engine. It runs down to the front next to the hot side charge pipe. That allowed me to us 2 3/4" pipe all the way to the air cleaner and not step it down to 2.5" pipe just before the MAF. It also eliminated one of the 90° bends in the pipe. Better air flow this way and also more room to fit the larger air cleaner I am going to be ordering from K&N once I get the exact dimensions where it is gong to sit.

All of the hoses that run over the top of the turbo have a layer of fiberglass cloth with the radiant barrier another layer of fiberglass cloth and another layer of radiant barrier. How that was done is I glued the fiberglass cloth to the back of a 2' x 4' sheet of radiant barrier and then cut the radiant barrier and cloth into 3" wide strips to make strips that were 3" x 4'. I wrapped the hoses overlapping by 50%, that gave me the double layer. Then I took 2" wide fiber reinforced radiant barrier tape and cut it down the center to make 1" wide strips. I used that to tape over the cut edge of the fiberglass/barrier I wrapped the hose with. Then I taped both ends to clean them up so they were straight. The trick to doing this is to apply a piece of tape to the hose and wrap it around once and then stick it to the barrier/cloth combination at the beginning. At the end you terminate with a piece of tape that sticks to the barrier and then using another piece you tape the barrier to the hose to keep it from unwinding. Once you get the tape on all the way down the exposed edge of the barrier/cloth it will not come untwisted. If done properly you get a nice snug fitting heat wrap which is what you see in the photo.

The red hose separators I bought and they are not made to stack like that. In order to stack them I used 3mm PCB standoffs which are made from brass and I drilled the pieces out so the standoffs would go through them where the screws normally screw into. I did not drill the holes in the 2 ends. on the ends you have to have one of the hose separators flipped so the screw goes through it from the outside, you do that before you drill the hole on the inside 1/2 of it. I put the screw in the first piece and put the standoffs on and tightened them up then put 2 hoses and the back half of the first separator and then another 1/2 separator, more hoses and did that to the end and then put the screw into the last piece.


Hose and wire routing is extremely important to increase airflow around the engine. It can also be used to direct the air like what I have done. The curve of the hoses to the passenger side of the car is no accident. It was planned so the air being blown down that side of the block above the turbo is going to then get pushed over to the passenger fender area where it will get sucked out of the fender vents. Hot air from the turbo rises and is going to get pulled into that stream of moving air and taken out of the engine bay. Well that's the plan anyhow. I am pretty sure it will be effective I don't know to what extent. Next time I get around a stock Solstice GXP I will ask to take heat readings from the turbo area and compare them to readings from my car.
 
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Discussion Starter · #199 ·
It looks good with the red black and gold. The gold works with the yellow too. I am going to use some Yellow EL wire for accent lighting on the interior. around the speakers to cover up the cut edge where the grills are and maybe around the arm rest insert. Gonna look and see what other places it would work. I am also going to add ambient "spot" lights that shoot a dim light from behind the door handles on the door to light up the GXP embossing. and the rame thing from the top of the glove box and just under the steering column. Maybe under the seats to shoot light out into the foot wells. This is all really dim lighting to accent the interior. Gotta be careful not to go overboard with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #200 ·
I finally got the CAC installed and the intake is 100% done.
This is what I have left to do

Install passenger side fender
install LR wheel well liner
tighten cam position sensor bolts
put front bumper cover back on
ground battery in the rear (wire is ran just have to get it attached to tome metal)
make sure all of the AN fittings and tightened
do the torque angle on the crank pulley
put oil in
fill with coolant
install accessory belt
torque down the water pump inspection cover
connect the battery and hopefully i don't get a puff of smoke

I am going to pull the coil packs and the plugs and hand rotate the engine a few times and then I will put the plugs back in and crank it until I get oil coming out of the line for the turbo. Do a compression test on each cylinder to make sure everything is good there and finally fire it up.

I shouldn't have any issues with air in the coolant system and I am also able to "burp" the system without ever starting the car. I can turn the pump on independent of the engine.
 
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