well I just discovered that I am not able to fit the block of aluminum standing on end along with the drill bit into my drill press. Not enough space between the chuck and the bottom plate.
Looks like I am hand drilling it. I did really good hand drilling the water neck and stayed centered going down that which I have to say was the most difficult part with drilling the water neck. the drill size is 1.078125" and the OD on the water neck is ~1.35" leaving a total of 0.271875" for the diameter which is 0.1359375" of tolerance between the drill and the outside of the water neck. I had to stay really centered because the tap is 1.315" but the point at which the fitting would be considered as tight the diameter of the threads is 1.2563" and that is going to leave 0.04685" of aluminum between the threads and the outside of the water neck. Really no room for any drifting there. When I tapped the water neck I didn't have any of the threads break through at all.
Waiting for batteries to charge is like waiting for paint to dry.
I have drilled through with 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and I am almost through with 3/4. Then onto the 1" I was burning through batteries faster then they could charge. I have 6 on the charger now and I am using my "backup" 18 volt drill in case I end up burning it out. I have a plug in drill but it has no brake so if the drill bit gets caught it would twist my arm into a pretzel. It is easy for a drill bit to get stuck in aluminum so I'll pass on the pretzel arm.
Sun is trying to come out.had lightning and thunder earlier.
when smoke starts coming out of a drill is that bad??
Good thing I used my old backup instead of my Milwaukee. I only have about 1/4" of an inch to go with the 1 5/16 drill and I will be done drilling the center out. I have to drill the 4 holes for the branches but those are less then 1/2" deep and will be a whole lot easier.
I am still dumbfounded by how GM got coolant to actually flow through the oil cooler. and that the hot coolant was then put into the block to cool the engine.
12 AN female flare 90° to 12AN hose - 2pcs
5/8" tube to 12AN male flare - 1pcs
3/4" tube to 12AN male flare - 1pcs
3/4" barb to 12AN male flare - 5pcs
12AN female flare to 12AN hose - 7pcs
6AN female flare 90° to 6AN hose - 1pcs
12mm banjo to 6AN male flare - 1pcs
6AN female flare to 6AN hose - 3pcs
1" NPT male to 16AN male flare - 6pcs
16AN female flare to 16AN hose - 6pcs
3/8" tube to 8AN male flare - 1pcs
8AN female flare 90° to 8AN hose - 1pcs
16AN female flare 90° to 16AN hose - 1pcs
3/4" NPT male to 12 AN male flare- 3pcs
12AN female flare to 8AN male flare - 1pcs
8AN female flare to 8AN hose - 1pcs
3/4" NPT male to 10 AN male flare - 1pcs
10AN female flare to 6AN male flare - 1pcs
3/8" barb to 6AN male flare - 1pcs
1.5" barb to 16AN male flare - 1pcs
1.75" barb to 16AN male flare - 1pcs
Timing chain kit includes these parts
Exhaust Cam Phaser
Intake Cam Phaser
Exhaust VVT Solenoid
Intake VVT Solenoid
Exhaust Phaser Bolt
Intake Phaser Bolt
Cam Timing Chain
All parts are GM original,the tensioner is as well but has been modified.
I am going to modify my existing mechanical water pump by removing the shaft and impeller and either having a plug made or the hole where the shaft goes through welded closed.
I am still going to need to get some aluminum bar to mount the radiator and also some AN line clamps for holding the lines in place. I am sure I will also make some brackets to hold the line as well. I will update the cost on those parts when I get to tat point
So far the total is 2,259.92 + shipping costs (figure about 100.00 so far spent on shipping so 2,359.92.
This is a problem solver system. It is going to allow me to remove the air dam from under the car (YAY) and it should solve the issue with the high engine temps when running the AC. It corrects GM's mistake of 50% of the coolant going into the block being hot coolant which reduces the amount the coolant is able to cool. I will see how the manifold I made fits into the system. If it goes as planned I will be eliminating a couple of sharp bends in the coolant system which will improve flow. It should also fix the system getting air bound when filling it. No clamps are used in this design. It is all >=500PSI rated fittings and hoses. It is going to be a super clean install. I am going to route as many hoses as I can so they will not block airflow through the engine compartment. I am also going to do some more moving of the wiring harness. I am probably going to remove the entire engine harness and reinstall it making changes to it as needed to clean it up to allow better airflow around the engine. I have not yet decided if I want to attack the snaggle of brake lines that GM made at the EBCM. GM screwed the pooch when they did the brake lines and also the wiring under the fuse box. it looks like a 2 year old came up with those designs.
I want to see how much space I am able to free up around the engine. Would be nice if I can get it to look as clean as this.
A lot of work to get it to look like that but not out of the realm of possible. Just have to clean things up and organize it properly.
Anybody interested in a CSST cooling system?? only the upper radiator hose needs to be bought. It includes all fittings, t-bolts clamps, really difficult to locate silicone couplers. The oil cooler lines and the fill line at the bottom of the expansion bottle and stainless steel braided. The turbo return line, block expansion line, radiator expansion line are all CSST. I managed to locate a wye fitting for the oil cooler feed line. It promotes better movement of the coolant through the lines, less restriction then using a tee. The wye fitting is fiber reinforced plastic.
The lower radiator hose CSST is longer then the factory hose.The hose routing is different and it doesn't cram it down between the block and the frame. There is over 400 bucks worth of couplings, fittings, CSST and clamps. I have not had any leaks at all fro the system. It actually has less then 500 miles on it. I know you just replaced your lower radiator hose @HHGadget but you may still be interested. LOL
OK so I broke vice in the process if tapping out the manifold for the 16AN fittings (1" NPT). It wasn't a heavy duty vice or anything like that and I was pushing it over it's limits. Snapped the jaws on it .
I had a second vice that is larger then the one I broke so I got the holes all tapped out. I just finished up painting it and it is hanging up to dry for the next 24 hours. I did get a bunch more fittings in that I ordered. The 16an hose ends and 16an 90° elbers. Ordered up the fittings that I missed and those should be here by the end of the week. Th radiator that was supposed to be shipping on the 15th of next month just got pushed back until the end of the month. WTF is it with places still blaming crap on COVID. It's got nothing to do with COVID and they know it. Hopefully the water pump will be here tomorrow and the timing chain as well. Then I will have something to putter around with for the next week. Gotta figure out where I am going to put the water pump. Since I now have a month before the radiator gets shipped so 5 weeks until it gets delivered I am going to take the entire engine harness out clean it up and put it in so it's actually out of the way. I should be able to tackle the EBCM and brake line jungle GM made.
Well Apparently I got my water pump today. Shipping company left it at the top of my driveway in the rain/sleet/snow. Nice and wet it is. Good thing Davis Craig put all of the electronics in plastic bags.
I am shocked at how small the pump is. It's friggin tiny!!!. Bout the size of my hand. It is going to be really easy to find a home for this thing because of how small it is. and it moving 50 gallons of coolant per minute from something as small as this is is impressive.
I have the water pump painted. Tomorrow when it's dry I will have a look see in the engine bat to locate the best place or it. I am thinking on the frame rail in the vicinity of the EBCM. I am going to have to clean up the brake lines and move the EBCM to make enough room, I think it can be put in that area considering how small it is. The other place I am thinking is off the side of the intake manifold above the air conditioning sensor. It will be a wee bit tighter to get it in there because of the shock tower brace. The brace would be a good attachment for the mount I am going to make for the pump.
It has been snowing like a fool this evening and that's going to put a read damper on working on the car. We are into the monsoon season here so rain is expected every day for the next 2 weeks around 1:00 in the afternoon. Rain would not be so much of an issue as I can get the portable garage up. Snow and portable garages don't play nice together so until the weather warms up enough so that we are no longer getting snow I am not going to be able to have the cover an will have to work on the car only in the AM and I am going to have to make sure that I can stop and move everything under cover pretty quickly if it starts to rain.
I am about to finish up working on the return manifold. Have to remove some paint on it and thread 4 of the 6 nipples into it. The last 2 are on order as I needed to go from a 12AN down to an 8AN and 12AN down to 6AN. I had ordered several reducers to do this and then I found a place that makes the reducer as a single step from the 12AN. Less connections = less potential for leaks.
I am also going to put together the heater core hoses. I will provide photos and a list of fittings used for each hose and also what the cut length of the hose is. I am going to put double wall shrink tubing over the sides of some of my box end wrenches to I can tighten up the fittings without marring them. I am also going to make a set of vice clamps from some scrap oak I have to hold the other side of the fitting so I can tighten it and also to insert the tube into the sleeve nut.
The most important thing to do is to run a piece of tape around the hose where the sleeve nut is once the hose is pushed all the way into the nut. This is important to do so you can tell if the hose has been pushed out when screwing the sleeve nut onto the fitting. The hose pushing out of the sleeve nut during assembly of the hose is the number one cause of AN hose failure. The second cause is over tightening of the flare fittings causing damage to the taper.
The sleeve nut MUST be tightened almost all the way. Only a small space of < 0.03" should remain between the sleeve nut and the nut on the AN fitting.
A couple of drops of oil should be placed on the tapered part of the AN fitting that inserts into the hose. Any household cooking oil will do the job or you can use engine oil or a 3 in 1 general purpose oil. Putting the little bit of oil on the taper reduces the chances of the hose getting pushed out when tightening the sleeve nut onto the AN fitting.
Electrical tape is your friend. Wrap the hose where you intend to cut it with 2 layers of a good electrical tape. Super 33+ is what I use because it has an almost 100% stretch ratio so you can can get it super tight. Use a good sharp wood chisel and a 22 oz hammer to cut the hose in the middle of the tape. The tap keeps the ends of the hose from flaring. Make your hose cuts as you go. Do not cut the hose ahead of time. The outside weaving even with the tape on it will loosen up with time and the only thing that keeps it from doing that is being clamped in the AN fitting. Trim the end of the hose if the hose has been sitting for more then a few hours without having an AN fitting tightened up on the end of the hose. This will make sure the braided jacket is snug to the core of the hose when putting the fitting on.
Those are my recommendations for making the strongest possible hoses when using removable AN fittings.
OK so here are some more photos. The pump is offered in black or gray but the black one I couldn't find in stock here in the states and it had to be shipped from Australia. So I bought the gray one and painted it black.
Now mind you that is not wet, it is fully dry. That is also a single coat of the paint I use. I have to say that it's not to bad a paint job considering it is rattle can paint.
This photo puts the size of the pump into perspective..
Here is the coolant return Manifold I made.
Not bad considering I used a cordless drill and a 12" compound miter saw to "mill" the thing. The 2 fittings that are screwed in and don't have an AN fitting attached to them are just place holders. Those are not the actual fittings that is going to be used. The one that will be used are for a 3/8" line and a 1/2" line. The fittings that are screwed in are for a 3/4" line
Heater core hoses are almost finished being made. I still have to test fit and tighten up the sleeve nut all the way. I need to order some hose spreaders to hold the hoses organized. Those things start to get expensive when you get into larger AN hoses so I am going to hold off on ordering those until i know how all of the lines are gong to be routed. I could have gone with 10AN maybe even 8AN hose because of the 5/8" diameter pipe size on one of the stumps sticking out of the firewall for the heater core being that size. it's funny because 3 of the connections are 3/4" and one is 5/8" and you will only get the flow that 5/8" is able to carry through the heater core loop. Odd it is done that way. The cost ends up being about the same because adapters would have to be purchased to size down from 3/4" to 8AN. I know we could use 8AN because the heat in the car is way too strong, it was designed to heat a Hummer H3 which is a huge vehicle in comparison.
Oh I did want to mention. Cutting the hose. I found the best way to do it. electrical tape (removed before put into AN fitting) where you want to cut and cut right in the middle of the tape. Best tool to use to cut it is the 18volt Milwaukee Hackzawll. Its a funky looking sawzwall. Easier to hold onto for this kind of a thing. I have a used Milwaukee fine tooth metal blade I am using and it is cutting through it like butter. IDK if I would use a new blade because it might snag the nylon fibers instead of melting them with friction. The blades aren't crazy dull at all and it cuts the stainless steel wires easily. This works perfect because for some crazy reason there is no dust or rubber bits when cutting it so no worries about getting anything in the hose which is what happens if a cutoff wheel is used. The hose doesn't get squished like it does when using a hammer and chisel or a PEX cutter. The hose comes out perfect. Next cut I make I will show a photo of it.
I don't like how long the water neck ended up being with the adapter threaded into it. I am not able to tap it deeper to get the fitting into it further because it is not thick enough and I would end up cutting through it with the tap. I could cut the length of the water neck down some this way it wouldn't be as long. End result is I still do not like the way it looks. I am also not going to use the nipple on it that attaches to the oil cooler because there is not enough room between it and the oil cooler to make a 12an hose. I am going to attach to the return pipe for the heater core. This because of the pipes orientation it is better angles to allow coolant to flow into the oil cooler and there is amble space to make the hose needed.
I did some investigation and found the bolt pattern of the water neck and the shape of the mounting flange to be identical to a small block Chevy/LS motor. I found a company tat makes a swivel 45° degree LV water neck that has a 16AN connection on it. Going to order that up today.
I ran into an issue with some of the fittings. I ordered 5 fittings that converted a male hose barb to 12an. I don't like the construction of the fittings as they are not all that great and seem like they would be prone to leaking. They also don't go over 2 of the pipes properly and I would have to file down the barb in order to get them on. The way the pipe is made I run the risk of filing too much a making a hole in the barb. I am going to cut the barb off and use a ferrule style fitting instead. This makes a better connection that is stable. Going to order replacements today.
I am in the process of seeing how things are going to line up and fit. I pulled the engine harness and the under hood body harness. These are actually 2 separate harnesses, YAY GM did it the right way!!!. I tore down the engine harness and I have to say considering how badly it is ran and how awful it looks the rats nest once you get the tape and loom off is actually easy to deal with. I cut the ground splices (black/white wires) and unpinned a good amount of the ignition wires (pink/black) and the harness was not to hard to untangle from there. Most of the connections to the engine are attached to a single ECM clip. The other clip has mostly connections to the inline connector under the fuse box which connects to the BCM. There is a single connector that plugs into the bottom of the fuse box and that is a mix of ignition wires and relay wires for starting the car.
When I am done with this harness very little of it is going to be easily visible. I am not going to run it around the engine at the front like what was done. It is going to be up under the windshield cowl as a kind of a trunk. I am only going to have one other trunk where multiple things are bundles into a harness and that's the coil packs, VVT solenoids and the waste gate solenoid. every other connection to be made will be individual runs back under the cowl. This is going to make it far easier to hide the wiring.
I removed the large chunk of foam from under the intake manifold. It is only there to quite the engine down but it actually causes a couple of issues. It acts like insulation. Not fantastic for the injectors or the engine. It is a dust and debris trap. Lots of pine trees where I live and a whole mess of pine needles came falling out when I took that thing out. I don't care about hearing the clicking sound. It doesn't bother me at all. So it's not going to be put back in and neither is the one around the HPFP.
Here are some photos of the engine harness after I have untangled most of it.
Yep that's the entire harness for the engine.
and here is the clip at the ECM that has most of the things that plug into the engine.
I picked up a tight weave PET loom that is not split. I am going to unpin the connectors and slide the PET loom down the wires. I have double wall adhesive backed shrink tubing to secure the ends. Nice thing about PET loom is the tighter you pull on it the tighter it bundles the wires together. The first time around when I moved the harness I did not remove it from the vehicle and I only cut most of the OE loom off. I did not unpin the connectors and slide the loom over the wires, I used split loom and a crap load of tape to secure it. While it did look better than the stock harness I was not happy with how it came out. I was not able to get the amount of slack out of the loom that I wanted to and it didn't come out as clean as I wanted it to.
I designed a bracket to hold the new water pump and @rob the elder is doing me a huge favor and making it with his 3D printer. This is going to be for mock up purposes only and the final one will be machined from aluminum. I guess it depends on how strong it comes out. I believe it might be more than strong enough being made from plastic if I decide to mount the pump on the frame of the car.
I have picked 2 possible places to mount the pump. One is on the frame in front of the EBCM. I may have to finagle the AC lines a bit to get it to fit. The second option is making a bracket that would attach to the alternator mounting bolts. This is where a plastic bracket would not work and it would need to be made form metal. I am unsure of the clearance for the hood lift strut and I have to wait for the bracket to be 100% sure if it would fit there.
There is a temperature sensor that I need to install for the water pump This is going o be installed into the hole where the banjo bolt screws into for the turbo. The turbo return line is going to get connected to the manifold I made. I am trying to not use any tees in the system other than the manifold. Ia going to have to make the manifold over again as I need to drill and tap it for a couple more things to attach to it..This time around I am going to make a setup so I can use my vice under my drill press and use the drill press to drill through it. No drill bit wander that way and I will be able to drill right down the center of it. I also did the math to make a template on a flat piece of paper that I can wrap around and get exact drill locations for the ports instead of measuring and marking directly on the part. Better accuracy doing it this way because the fittings are going to be really close to each other in order to fit all of them on the manifold.