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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
I am about 2/3rds of the way done with the engine harness. it takes a lot of time to do. have to write down wire colors and what pins and clips they go into. also putting the sleeve on so it is snug takes a while.

I am going to mess about with getting my drill press all set up and my large vice moved from my storage shed into my workshop. I have a bench top drill press and the distance from the bottom to the chuck is not enough to fit the drill bit and the round rod. So I a going to spin the bottom around 180° and make a platform that I can bolt it to and then bolt the platform to the workbench The vice will be positioned directly under the vice. I am going to have to take some measurements so I can get everything aligned properly.

I am going to drill 2 rows of holes down the length of the rod.the 2 rows will make a 90° V shape. I would love to drill the holes at a 45° angle to the rod but I do not have any end mills to be able to do that. need o make a flat area so the drill bit doesn't walk. I did come up with a way to make flat areas where the holes are going to be drilled. Belt sander with 36 grit paper on it. That will do the trick!
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
OK so here is an update.

Tree Wood Electrical wiring Plant Event



Bag Automotive lighting Tints and shades Wire Personal protective equipment


Looking a lot better.

If I was able to get the pins for the ECM I would have shortened up the harness by some 8 or more feet. The connectors and also the terminal pins have been discontinued. I could shorten up the wires from the other direction but that would be a huge amount of work to locate all of the different pins for the different styles of connectors.

I circuit tested every wire and everything checked out how it was supposed to. Guess I have a good memory and method for rewiring car harnesses

I am going to do what is called a stealth installation of the harness. I am going to do my best to hide it. I am really considering relocating the ECM to the passenger side or maybe moving it to the interior. The harness is crazy long. I might be able to put the ECM in the trunk that's how long the harness is. If I move the harness to the passenger side it would be easier to manage the harness because all of the wires come from a single location. but then I would have t find a place on that side to hide the wiring that connected the ECM to the BCM and also to the fuse box clip. It would be a really long loop.

If I left the ECM where it is I could route the harness under the brake booster and then up under the cowl and come out from under the cowl on the drivers side under the HPFP and under the intake manifold and make the connections runs from there. The passenger side is a snap because there is only a single clip that would be a challenge and that is the one that goes to the waste gate solenoid. coil pack I can tuck into the valley in the valve cover under where the clip plugs in to the coils. Make a cover for the valley and no wiring harness would be seen.


Have to do some thinking about the routing. I still have to clean up the front chassis/body harness.

Oh you have to hear this. The high speed data wires are 2 wire, one is a high and one is a low. there is an in and an out for every module connected to the network. so if a module gets unplugged every module after it will not be able to communicate on the network. That's all fine and dandy but it's how GM ran the wiring that is completely mind boggling. I have a manual transmission so I do not have a TCM. There are only 2 modules under the hood that are connected to the high speed data network, the EBCM and the ECM. The ECM is at the end of the line so the data wires loop through the EBCM. This is the crazy part. The EBCM is not apart of the engine harness.. Huh that's odd not sure why they would do that. Th data wires literally come out of the firewall from the BCM and go to the EBCM taking the long way around which is down the passenger frame rail and into the front bumper where it cuts across to the drivers side and then heads down the drivers side frame rail until it gets to the EBCM. Then the data wires head back out of the EBCM and make the same trip all the way back to the firewall on the passenger side where they make a U turn and connect into the harness that goes over to the EBCM.

That is just bonkers!!!

There is no reason for the EBCM to be in the chassis harness. I do not fully understand why it is wired the way it is. The clips are not fully populated having more then enough open spaces to accommodate the EBCM.

They have the windshield wipers tied into the engine harness and also the washer fluid sensor as well. doesn't make sense to me.

I am not going to be able to hide the chassis harness unless I run it under the frame rail. Not gonna do that because it can get snagged on something being that close to the ground. I am going to split the harness into a driver side and a passenger side which will make it easier to run. I am hoping each of the harnesses will be small enough so they don't stand out.
 
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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
That harness was torn apart a few days ago. Spent many hours untangling it and getting the wires into groups. I used PET loom to cover it. I didn't use the split loom that is the solid stuff. I unpinned most of the clips o get the loom on. Then used adhesive lined shrink tube to secure the loom at the ends
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
OOoOO yeah!!

Doin some cleaning. Up and refinishing of some parts.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Vehicle Hood



Wood Grey Font Gas Metal



Glove Gas Machine gun Gun barrel Machine
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
No sealant is needed on any of the AN connections. I do need a sealant on the NPT adapters and I am using Yellow PTFE tape which is rated for chemical resistance. It is also a thicker tape.
 
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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
The paint looks messed up on the front cover but it isn't. That's a reflection.

Art Black-and-white Font Circle Monochrome
 
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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
I just finished the modifications to the OE pump. I removed the impeller and also the mounting flange for the sprocket. So only a shaft goes through. Coolant should not have any issue going through the pump with little to no restriction now.

I also cleaned, primered and painted the pump and the back cover for it. I am going to give the water pump inlet pipe a nice buff shine. While I know it is buried under there and hard to see I still want to to be dressed up.

I scrubbed the block the best I could. The people that do dry ice blasting are just plain stupid. 2500.00 to do the block and valves!!. It takes 8 hours to do the whole undercarriage and engine bay and getting as much of the engine as they can. I only want the block and intake valves done and I have removed all of the obstacles and the block is easy to get to. At most 2 hours of work. 2500.00

I can rent the damned machine and high CFM compressor for 500 bucks for 24 hours. I bought 80 lbs of dry ice this past Halloween and that was 100 bucks. Machine uses about 80lbs an hour so 200 in materials.

A dry ice blaster doesn't cost that much that would warrant the 2500. That's 1/2 the cost of the friggin machine.

Complete rip off if you ask me even the price of the machine rental is as well.
 
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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Is it possible to get a Solstice to run at 180F all day long?

Now that I have had more time put into looking at the cooling system my answer is yes I can. The ECM will likely complain about it and set a DTC. I have not 100% grasped how the ECM controlls the radiator fan. There i a controller but only 2 wires attached to that controller. nothing to signal to the controller what to set the fan speed to so I am not exactly sure how it works. It looks like it is a simple on and off but I thought that the fan was variable speed.. IDK I would have to have the car running in order to mess about with it to see. To get the engine to run at 180 all day the ECM would have to be programmed so the fan would kick on at a lower temperature. The water pump I am putting in is variable speed and it has a controller for it and I am able to set target temperatures and it will adjust the pump speed to maintain that target. So no need for a thermostat with that kind of a system. The thermostat is one of the most restrictive things in a cars cooling system. Look at how mall the opening is when the thermostat is fully open. I can tell yo that it is not equal to the area of the radiator hose that's for sure. Not to mention the acrobatics the water has to perform just to go through the thing. It hurts the flow a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
It's not a PWM signal because there is a controller on the back of the fan. You would need to have a separate line that has the PWM on it to tell the controller how to modulate the power. so there would be 3 wires needed not 2.

If the power was already modulated then a controller at the fan would not be needed.

IDK I would have to mess about withit to see what is actually happening. The wires that go to the fan are not connected to the ECM either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
OK so I was sitting there staring at all of the bits and pieces of my car I have all over the place and I thought... well hell if I am doing all of this AN fitting stuff I am going to have to also do all of the vacuum lines as well.... So I said screw it and I compiled a list of the vacuum line fittings needed. I then realized that I had forgotten my wastegate can have coolant run through it. So I had to make a list of arts for that as well. TiAL I believe has gone out of business but I am hoping that someone makes an hose ends that thread right into the ports on the wastegate. I am also hoping the same thing for the BOV/recirc valve which is made by turbosmart.
 
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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
I believe mine has 2 wires in and 2 wires out.


watch the video starting at 1:09. You can see there is only 2 connections in the side that goes to the car.
watch the video starting at 2:10 and you will see that the other clip only has 2 connections in it. it has me puzzled as to how it works.
 

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The GXP has three wires.

And running the fan all the time will not magically make the car run at 180 lol.

P.S. It's very easy to change these settings in HP tuners if you have that and want to try it.
 

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While KG's changes to the cooling system are radical, his studying of the thing might lead to development of a cooling system upgrade that might be useful for others not wanting to overhaul their whole engine compartment. I'm thinking for example of a way to reduce flow restriction at some critical points such as the oil cooler connection. Maybe the thermostat as well -- I don't know if a "compound" or "servo" thermostat has ever been developed for any application? Where a small thermostat would move an actuator lever to open a large valve. Kind of like the wastegate actuator on a turbo. This kind of setup is used on large air compressors where a thin 3/8" air conduit is connected to an electrical solenoid on one end and on a servo or compound valve on the other. When the ECU detects that the pressure setpoint is reached, it opens the solenoid, air pressure moves the small piston which in turn actuates a large (for example larger than 2" diameter) bypass valve putting the compressor on relief until the air pressure drops below the setpoint.
 

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watch the video starting at 1:09. You can see there is only 2 connections in the side that goes to the car.
KG, I don't know what else to say except that at 1:07 you can see in that video that the ECM side of the controller clearly has two large prongs for power (+12v and 0v) and a third small, round pin for speed signal which I imagine is a PWM. And the guy clearly says that there are 3 contacts, the third one being, in his words, "fan variable".
 
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