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I put the Solo Street Race exhaust on my solstice and the standard Curt hitch went on without doing another thing, love it and the exhaust is cool
 

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please someone post when this new hitch is available. I went to draw-tite web site and did a search for part number and nothing came up. I realize it will not be released until 2009 but I thought maybe there would be some information.

I will delete this post in a couple of days in order to keep this thread clean.

Chuck

I went on the Draw Tite website and found their hitch for the GXP. Now we have to find a price.




SEARCH RESULTS FOR: Pontiac Solstice GXP

Sportframe Hitch PN 24833

Part Number: 24833
Description: Sportframe Hitch
Class Rating: CLASS I
WC: 2000
Box Size: 1¼" x 1¼"


Footnotes:

Ø: Uses all existing holes No Drilling required.
HM: Hitch crosstube is visible beneath bumper.
JR: Exhaust must be temporarily lowered for installation.
X: Minor fascia trimming required.



Weight-Carrying Capacity

Tongue Weight - 200 lbs.
Gross Trailer Weight - 2000 lbs.





Drawbar Kit PN 3594

Part Number: 3594
Description: Drawbar Kit
Kit Includes:
Drawbar
Pin & Clip






Wiring Position 1



Behind Driver Side Taillight - Externally

Wiring Position 2



Behind Passenger Side Taillight - Externally



Electrical Footnotes:

A: 2 wire system. No Converter required, but a ModuLite® can be used.





Other Fits for 24833
Year Make Model Style
06-08 Pontiac Solstice

07-08 Pontiac Solstice GXP

09-09 Pontiac Solstice

09-09 Pontiac Solstice GXP

07-08 Saturn Sky

07-08 Saturn Sky Redline

09-09 Saturn Sky Redline

09-09 Saturn Sky
 

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Hi Lynn!

I'm really interested in the new hitch for the GXPs.

I have a few questions and requests...

1. Will it fit my 2008 GXP (stock) without any modifications?

2. What is the cost of your hitch?

3. Has your hitch been manufactured yet, and can we order direct from you?

4. Could you provide pictures here of an installed GXP hitch?

Thanks in advance!

I'm a designer for Cequent Towing, Draw-Tite, Reese Hidden Hitch etc... I've just completed a new hitch that will fit the GXP dual tailpipe without modifying, (cutting) the hitch brackets, (like on the Curt hitch).

It is a strong hitch with a thicker frame bracket on the driver's side and reinforcement bars that was tested as designed, (unlike the modified Curt hitch).

The Draw-Tite part number is 24833. It should be available sometime in February 2009. Includes ball mount and pin and clip.

Call your local hitch dealer and ask for it.

Sincerely,
Lynn
 

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Doug, Robin;

Yes it should be in stock at our warehouses. And it will fit without modifications. We don't sell direct so you have to get pricing from your local Draw-Tite dealer. :) I'm sure it's a fair price.

You do have too drill one hole per side on the bottom of the frame on the 2009 and newer models. Curt advertises a no-drill but their's is the same for the newer models, it's just that they haven't discovered this out yet. They also don't fit the GXP dual tailpipe models and their hitch is a lot closer to the exhaust...which causes tailpipe rattle. :cryin: (Not to brag but I've been designing hitches for over 30 years, probably longer than anybody ever has. ;)

This hitch fits all the Saturn Sky models also including the Redline. I'm at home now but I will post some pics when I get back to work.

Good luck and happy towing/biking or whatever.

Lynn
 

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Doug, Robin;

Yes it should be in stock at our warehouses. And it will fit without modifications. We don't sell direct so you have to get pricing from your local Draw-Tite dealer. :) I'm sure it's a fair price.

You do have too drill one hole per side on the bottom of the frame on the 2009 and newer models. Curt advertises a no-drill but their's is the same for the newer models, it's just that they haven't discovered this out yet. They also don't fit the GXP dual tailpipe models and their hitch is a lot closer to the exhaust...which causes tailpipe rattle. :cryin: (Not to brag but I've been designing hitches for over 30 years, probably longer than anybody ever has. ;)

This hitch fits all the Saturn Sky models also including the Redline. I'm at home now but I will post some pics when I get back to work.

Good luck and happy towing/biking or whatever.

Lynn
I bought one of these and hope to install it soon. The note that it is "no" modification is not exactly correct. The instructions show that I need to cut the corners off of my rear lower valence panel in a non-visible area. Very limited modifications is probably more accurate.

Here is the info on this hitch - you cannot buy from Draw Tite, so I think that posting these links is fine. Moderators, delete them if you think it is an issue.
http://www.draw-tite.com/fitguides/details.asp?ProdID=24833&dlr=0
http://www.draw-tite.com/fitguides/pdf/N24833.pdf
 

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I bought one of these and hope to install it soon. The note that it is "no" modification is not exactly correct. The instructions show that I need to cut the corners off of my rear lower valence panel in a non-visible area. Very limited modifications is probably more accurate.
Flash is correct. On the GXP you have to do a minor fascia trim on the corners underneath. The non-GXP's you may have to trim off a small plastic fascia tab underneath.
The only way you could see these trims is to lay down on the ground underneath the vehicle and look up.

I've included some pics of the prototype installed in our lab on a non GXP... Sorry for the grainy photos.






 

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Last night, I installed my Draw-tite hitch.

I was going to post my experiences in a separate thread, but this thread IS the "end all, be all" trailer hitch thread.

As I said before, I bought the Draw-tite hitch
http://www.draw-tite.com/fitguides/d...ID=24833&dlr=0
http://www.draw-tite.com/fitguides/pdf/N24833.pdf

It cost me $160, shipped directly to my house. I forget where I bought it from, but they had a different SKU from Draw-tite, but a phone call confirmed I would be ordering 24833 for a Pontiac Solstice GXP.

In the box was everything as advertised: two bolt leaders, all the bolts, washers, nuts, and plates. The instructions just like the PDF above. Of course the hitch, plus the drawbar and pin w/ clip.

Total installation time, including cleanup: 2 hours + 5 small cuts on my hands (plastic fascia material is pretty sharp).

I used drive-on ramps to get under the rear of the car.

Some tips and my experience during the install:

You do have to clip the corners off your fascia if you have a GXP.

Do not think you might be able to do it without lowering the muffler (my car has stock muffler). I tried getting the rubber muffler attachments off without lube at first. This is a bad idea. Use plenty of lube, and I remembered a tip from doing exhaust changes in the shop: glass cleaner makes GREAT lube for rubber parts. Spray liberally, and be patient, they will come off, you just have to really push them a long ways before they pop over the end. Use lube liberally for re-installation, too.

Your muffler, if you have a GXP, will not drop down very far. The lower valence panel prevents it from dropping out of the car. I recalled that we have to disconnect the flex coupling at the front, then slide the assembly forward a few inches to get the cat-back out of a car, so don't expect it to come right out once you disconnect the rubber hangers.

After staring at the hitch for several minutes, I found that you just wrestle it around your exhaust pipes and lower valence panel. Since I had disconnected the muffler hangers, the muffler would move a couple inches each direction, so I concluded I could just work one side then the other in. Eventually, you will have your hitch hanging sort of in place.

Then comes the time to fish the bolts. I wrestled with the left side first. Found out that you have to set the plate first over the hole, then I spent 15 minutes trying like hell to fish the end of the leader through that small hole from the larger, rearward hole. Eventually, I got it. Then, carefully insert the plate in the oval hole, and work it back until the square hole lines up well enough. Turns out the left side has a hexagonal hole behind the oval mounting hole, so it was easier to fish the bolt through.

THEN, put the leader holes through the mounting holes in the hitch. The reason to do this is because you might push the bolts right up into the frame rail.


My next step was to raise the hitch, start the nuts for the left side. I used a jackstand to hold it in place. Do not mess with the washers just yet, this is just to get your left side started while you fish the right hand bolts.

When it came time to fish the right hand bolts, I learned something that should help. Maybe it is obvious to others, but my first job as an engineer is to make things more difficult by a factor of at least 10. :)

First, I spent several minutes, with the hitch in the way, trying to fish the end of the leader through the forward plate and hole, without accidentally pushing the plate way into the rail and without injuring myself or use too much foul language.

Then, a light went on.

Here is the big tip for fishing the bolts:

-First, stick the plate in through the rearward oval hole, and set your plate for the small forward hole.
-Second, take your leader WITHOUT the bolt, and stick it into the rail through your forward hole and plate, SPRING END FIRST.
-Third, simply fish the spring end backward into the rearward oval hole, it takes about 15 seconds, and screw your bolt onto the spring, and pull it through into the forward hole.

Much easier than blind fishing a wire from a large hole into a small hole with stuff in the way.

Then, the rearward oval hole is about 5 seconds:

-First, screw your bolt onto the leader.
-Second, insert the bolt into the rail through the oval hole. Put it in a few inches.
-Third, string your plate onto the wire end of the leader through the square hole in the plate.
-Fourth, insert the plate through the oval hole into the rail, while it is strung on the leader, and get it positioned over the hole with the wire end of the leader handing out..
-Fifth, simply pull the bolt back through your plate.

I wish I knew that before. It would have made the left side much easier.

The rest is getting the washers and the nuts on. It is a pain, but not impossible. Use a screwdriver to hold the washer while you work the nuts on. And for Heaven's sake, do not push the bolts up into the rail.

Remember to use plenty of lube to reinstall the rubber muffler hangers.


Some observations:

Once installed, it fits well, especially since the valence panel is dark grey.

I can see it will be difficult to work on the muffler or remove the muffler without first removing the hitch. I just hope that the bolts do not get pushed into the rail during any type of repair that requires the muffler to be removed, which is just about any type of work such as fuel tank removal, differential service, replacing the crossmember, etc.


Next up is wiring a 4-way connector for trailer lights. Anyone who has a good link to wiring diagrams or instructions for a Solstice, please post it here. I assume I get to the light wires at the outside/rear of the rail where the connectors are.
 

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Wiring info for 4 flat trailer harness

Flash's Owner;
You can see a little bit of info on the Draw-Tite website under fit guides in the left hand column. Enter your vehicle info. This shows where to access the wiring, which is behind the taillights externally.

The Solstice is a 2-wire system so a converter is not required. But you can install a modulite with optional circuit protection if you want too limit the draw on your tail light circuit. This would require that you run a power wire to the battery. But on a small car with a Class 1 hitch I wouldn't anticipate too large of a current draw. It's not like you're going to pull a 30 foot camper. :thumbs:

So what is your overall opinion of the fit of this hitch? I know that fish-wiring bolts is a learned art. :cuss: The more you do it the better you get at it. I look forward to any feed-back from you all. :leaving:

Lynn
 

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Flash's Owner;
You can see a little bit of info on the Draw-Tite website under fit guides in the left hand column. Enter your vehicle info. This shows where to access the wiring, which is behind the taillights externally.

The Solstice is a 2-wire system so a converter is not required. But you can install a modulite with optional circuit protection if you want too limit the draw on your tail light circuit. This would require that you run a power wire to the battery. But on a small car with a Class 1 hitch I wouldn't anticipate too large of a current draw. It's not like you're going to pull a 30 foot camper. :thumbs:

So what is your overall opinion of the fit of this hitch? I know that fish-wiring bolts is a learned art. :cuss: The more you do it the better you get at it. I look forward to any feed-back from you all. :leaving:

Lynn
Overall, I am pleased. The safety chain attachments are a little bit far away from the hitch when the drawbar is installed.

I still have yet to figure out how to wire the harness. I think I will be accessing the wiring underneath, at the right side of the frame rail, rather than running it out of someplace in my trunk.

I have attached a picture of the system with my newest fleet addition. I will be posting about it in another thread.

All about Flash's little sibling:
http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f62/flash-has-new-sibling-m-t-mobile-trunk-55219/
 

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I'm a designer for Cequent Towing, Draw-Tite, Reese Hidden Hitch etc... I've just completed a new hitch that will fit the GXP dual tailpipe without modifying, (cutting) the hitch brackets, (like on the Curt hitch).

It is a strong hitch with a thicker frame bracket on the driver's side and reinforcement bars that was tested as designed, (unlike the modified Curt hitch).

The Draw-Tite part number is 24833. It should be available sometime in February 2009. Includes ball mount and pin and clip.

Call your local hitch dealer and ask for it.

Sincerely,
Lynn
Several of us are wondering if your hitch will work on Sols (GXP's in particular) that have the DDM ProBeam installed.

Has anyone on this forum installed a hitch carrier AND the ProBeam on a GXP?
 

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Several of us are wondering if your hitch will work on Sols (GXP's in particular) that have the DDM ProBeam installed.
Shouldn't be a problem. :yesnod: The hitch bolts to the unibody frame members further back than the ProBeam. See my underneath picture with the proto hitch in place. I would think that with the ProBeam & the Draw-Tite hitch both installed you would definitely control the torsion issues at high speed cornering. :cool:






This is shown on a non-GXP, but it still fits the same on a GXP with dual tailpipes. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I thought I had PM'ed a Mod before... but could we break this thread out and move the non Curt Hitch information into a new thread for the Draw-Tite hitch? I think that would make more sense... so people can find the information on the hitch they are looking for.

Obviously deleting this post would then make sense as well.
 

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I thought I had PM'ed a Mod before... but could we break this thread out and move the non Curt Hitch information into a new thread for the Draw-Tite hitch? I think that would make more sense... so people can find the information on the hitch they are looking for.

Obviously deleting this post would then make sense as well.
Thanks, good point, and sorry I derailed the discussion. I had never realized there was a difference between Curt hitches and Draw-Tite hitches. I support this suggestion.
 

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We're installing the Curt hitch now and ran into a problem where the hole on the left side of the plate flange will not clear the rearward bolt protruding from the driver side frame rail. It's off by at least 1/4th inch. Grinding the flange slots now to provide the clearance.

Anybody experience this? 30 minutes has just exceeded two hours. :brentil:
 

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Discussion Starter #38
We're installing the Curt hitch now and ran into a problem where the hole on the left side of the plate flange will not clear the rearward bolt protruding from the driver side frame rail. It's off by at least 1/4th inch. Grinding the flange slots now to provide the clearance.

Anybody experience this? 30 minutes has just exceeded two hours. :brentil:
Not sure of your issue here... I don't recall (and didn't climb under mine) a bolt sticking out anywhere.

There were three holes in the rear frame rail, with the hitch being mounted to the two forward most holes. No bolts in the way, and nothing for them to have been mounted to either. I'm really confused here as to your problem... are you certain you are installing it correctly?

Here is the only picture I have (from 1st page on this thread) of the underside where it mounts:

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k136/rlhammon/Solstice/Curt Hitch 11119/2hitchPassengeside1c.jpg

And the instructions were very clear, and easy to follow. If you can post a picture of your issue, I'll try to help as best as I can.
 

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Several of us are wondering if your hitch will work on Sols (GXP's in particular) that have the DDM ProBeam installed.

Has anyone on this forum installed a hitch carrier AND the ProBeam on a GXP?
I have the very first prototype LNF Kappa Curt hitch on my 07 Redline. When I installed my ProBeam there were no issues. But things get REAL cramped with a hitch, ProBeam and a three inch exhaust !!!!!! I can't imagine why a DrawTite would be a problem either. A ReBar could be a different issue, so speaking with Dave @ Dejon would be a good idea. If you mount a hitch, some of the exhaust options will be eliminated.
 

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your pic basically looks like mine. I burnt out the camera batteries last night and I can't find the charger, but when I do, I'll post the pics.

Everything went according to plan - got the bolts into place in the two forward holes on the rails, secured the one side ok, but the "driver side" hitch hole would not align with the bolt hanging through the 2nd rail hole. It lined up ok with the forward hole. :willy: Almost pushed the bolt back up into the rearward rail hole trying to get the hitch hole to line up with it. Missed by 1/4 inch.

All I can figure is that I got a defective hitch or my '06 rails are out of whack.
 

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