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Either the ECM is dead, it's not powered and/or properly grounded, or there is some physical issue with the bus (harness) between the ECM and BCM, or (unlikely but I suppose it's possible) the CAN bus isn't terminated, though I seem to recall that the bus is internally terminated on this car.

The ECM is sounding more and more likely.

If you need an ECM, Rock Auto has prices that are FAR better than the dealership. However, you'll have to flash it. If you have HP Tuners, you can do this yourself though it will cost you a couple of credits due to the VIN. You may get a better deal on an ECM from Performance Autowerks.
 

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I got an ECM from DDMWorks for what seemed like a reasonable price at the time, but i don;t remember what it was.

Flashing can be done by many independent shops as well. All it takes is a Tech2 (or equivalent) and a TIS2WEB subscription.

Definitely shop around.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Solstice ECM ground check.

ECM X2 (Grey) connector
Pin 73 Resistance to battery ground
Key off – 0
1st position - .04
2nd position - .07
Start position - .05


ECM X1 (Black) connector
Pin 73 Ignition 1 voltage
Key off – 12.36
1st position – 12.36
2nd position – 12.06
Start position – 12.20

JohnWR -
KO - pin 19 .2
pin 20 - 12.6
pin 73 - for some reason I don't read any voltage there no. See above for previous reading.
 

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There is one additional voltage check: X1-3 should have 12V with the key on.

Does "KO" mean "Key On"? If it does, you should have 12 V at pin 19, and you have a problem with the Ignition contact in the key, the run/crank relay 51, or the ECM/Trans Fuse 43.

To check them in order:
1) Turn the key to power the car.
2) Pull Relay 51 and reinsert to listen for a click.
3) If it does not click the switch or the relay coil is bad
4) If it does click skip to (8)
5) Substitute another relay of the same type (Relay 14)
6) If it does not click the switch is bad
7) If it does click the original coil was bad
8) Check the voltage on both sides of the ECM/Trans Fuse 43
9) If neither side has 12V, the relay contacts are bad
10) Substitute another relay of the same type (Relay 14)
11) If one side only has 12V, the fuse is bad
12) If both sides have 12V there is a wiring harness problem

Pin 73 will only have voltage if the ECM is connected. I missed that the ECM turns on the relay that supplies this power.
With the ECM connected:
1) Turn the key to power the car
2) Pull Relay 26 and reinsert to listen for a click.
3) If it does not click the switch or the relay coil is bad
4) If it does click skip to (8)
5) Substitute another relay of the same type (Relay 14)
6) If it does not click the switch is bad
7) If it does click the original coil was bad
8) Check the voltage on both sides of the ECM Fuse 42
9) If neither side has 12V, the relay contacts are bad
10) Substitute another relay of the same type (Relay 14)
11) If one side only has 12V, the fuse is bad
12) If both sides have 12V there is a wiring harness problem or the ECM is bad
13) Check voltage at X1-73 with the ECM connected
14) If there is not 12V there is a wiring harness problem
15) If there is 12V the ECM is probably bad
 

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Discussion Starter #46
JohnWR, Yes KO means Key On.

I will check in the morning.

I've purchased a year to Alldata this afternoon so that should help. I believe I have only one more body ground to check (the starter)

Thank you for your time and patience.
 

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Starter ground won’t cause a U* error.

If the BCM can’t talk to the ECM, this car will never start.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #48
JohnWR.

Following your recommended procedure,
Step 2, yes relay clicks
Step 8, 12 Volts both sides of fuse 43
Step 12 appears to be logical conclusion.

Pin 43 voltage
Step 2, my fuse box does not have a relay in location 26
Step 8, .57 volts both sides
Step 13, Not sure how to check for voltage at X1-73 if the ECM is connected, currently looking for the other end of 73.

Incidently, the fuel pump runs continually and the gas pump on the dash is illuminated.
 

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Looking for a damaged wire can be a challenge.

No relay 26 says that there was a change in wiring from '08 to '09, unless I am missing something.

I think you are going to need an '09 service manual to sort the rest of this out.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
JOHNWR, please comment on step 13 re: X1-73
 

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JOHNWR, please comment on step 13 re: X1-73
That step was intended to verify voltage at the ECM after you had confirmed that you had it at fuse 42. If you look at the right-side diagram in post 33 you will see that pin 73 gets its power through relay 26, and that relay 26 is actuated by the ECM. That means that the ECM has to be plugged in to verify that it is working. I haven't looked at it but I imagine that the ECM connector is sealed, so probing it from the back is not going to work. You may be able to take the backshell off of the connector to get to the pins, or you could use a piercing probe to stab through the wire.

The problem is that you say you do not have a relay 26, and you do not have voltage at fuse 42. That absence brings into doubt everything that I have told you, since it indicates a wiring change from what I have to what you have.

What does the diagram under the cover of the fuse block show? Can you take a picture and post it? Also a top-down picture of the fuse block itself would help.
 

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This is really strange. You have a relay in position 35 that the legend says is empty. Has someone been messing around in there? My inclination would be to unplug the relay from position 35 and put it in 26.

Of course doing that might cause your car to explode .......

The pictures are from an '07 LE5 and an '08 LNF. Neither has a 35 and both have a 26.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
The only time it has been out of my sight was when the water pump was replaced a cpuple of years ago.

I have the plugs disconnected from the fuse box, I'll look to see if any wires correspond with space 35 and if any go to 26 first. If there are wires to 26 I'll see if I can determine where they are going first,

then boom!
 

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Have had this same 2.0 L turbo on several Buick Regals as well as my GXP. On the 2011 Regal CXL I had this same thing happen. Died at a light and when I got it restarted it ran very rough. Died at another light. Same thing when restarted. It was one of the camshaft actuators. Cant remember whether it was the intake or exhaust actuator the first time. But eventually they both went bad. Both times the error that showed up was the ESC system.
 

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Typically, you'd see a P0010 or P0012 if the cam actuator solenoids were the problem. McDoug is just getting a communications code.

However, that doesn't mean that the actuator(s) are good. If the BCM can't talk to the ECM, then there could be a host of DTCs that aren't reported. Having said that, I strongly suspect the ECM is the issue here. The car would certainly run very rough with a bad solenoid or two, but that shouldn't keep it from starting.

I had a U* error on my G35 following an engine replacement, but that was because I was trying to use an ECM that wasn't quite compatible with the harness. (Conveniently enough, the connectors fit just fine. It was just that the wires in the harness were going to completely different pins!)

I'd call Dave Gilbert @ Performance Autowerks and see if he'll make you a deal on an ECM. Or, they might be able to do a diagnostic on your current ECM and determine if that's the issue. You may be able to find someone local to check that out for you if you can find someone that tunes Ecotec cars. Maybe not, but may be worth calling around and asking. The only real issue with getting a cheap or used ECM is that it will have to be flashed with your VIN and the keys re-paired with the car.
 

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One quick word of advice...if you do need an ECM, they are model year specific. So a '06-'07 won't work on an '08,'09,'10 and vice versa. The sensor architecture changed. There was a guy on here recently that just went through this.
 

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Discussion Starter #58 (Edited)
NaviMKE - Both Cam sensors were replaced about a year ago, doesn't guarantee these didn't die but ... I'll look at the wires.

RAYGUN - I'll hunt down DAve, tks.

Ghost - I understand what you are saying, good to remember.

So feeling adventurous I pulled the underhood fuse box apart (separated the pieces except for the last layer) didn't see any burn marks or other signs of failure. Near impossible to do a wire trace I don't have a pinout for the fuse box connectors.

Guess the next step is to try the relay swap as suggested.
 

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.......So feeling adventurous I pulled the underhood fuse box apart (separated the pieces except for the last layer) didn't see any burn marks or other signs of failure. Near impossible to do a wire trace I don't have a pinout for the fuse box connectors.

Guess the next step is to try the relay swap as suggested.
Here are the pinouts of the connectors. It looks like the ones you want are both in X1.
Specifically, the relay coil control is F12 and the ECM power out is B10.
You should be able to check continuity from the pins to the sockets for the relay and the fuse.

In all honesty I don't know what damage you could do by plugging in the relay and fuse, the circuit is either going to go where it is supposed to, or nowhere.
As a first step you can leave the fuse out and plug in the relay with the ECM connected and the car powered. Getting a click would pretty much confirm that it is correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
JohnWR - going to do the swap - stupid question, how does one know which is the correct orientation of the relay, one photo shows it one way and the other the opposite.
 
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