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Engine Repair Due to OverHeating

3K views 16 replies 15 participants last post by  0nlyron 
#1 ·
Hi everyone; I have a 2007 GXP with 53k miles on it that has had electrical issues for a while and it tends to overheat some times but never excessively. Yesterday, I had noticed when I went to drive the car that the coolant had leaked overnight so I re-filled it and let it sit for another day. Today, when I go to start the car, all I get is a clicking sound but the engine does not start. Every time I have taken this car to a dealer, I have been ripped off. Does anyone have any recommendations for me? I live in the Boston area. Much appreciated!
 
#2 ·
when it overheated, how hot did it get? any coolant puddles under the car, particularly at the front of the engine on the passenger side? As for the starting, It could just be a bad battery. Alternator output should be around 14V and fully charged battery 12V-13V. If you have the original battery, It is 13 years and definitely needs changing.
 
#5 ·
it is not unreasonable to believe that your new battery is a loser. Check that battery first. Who did the battery install? Take it back there first. If you did it, double check your work.
 
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#6 ·
Hi everyone; I have a 2007 GXP with 53k miles on it that has had electrical issues for a while and it tends to overheat some times but never excessively. Yesterday, I had noticed when I went to drive the car that the coolant had leaked overnight so I re-filled it and let it sit for another day. Today, when I go to start the car, all I get is a clicking sound but the engine does not start. Every time I have taken this car to a dealer, I have been ripped off. Does anyone have any recommendations for me? I live in the Boston area. Much appreciated!
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Thanks for the reply. Yes, coolant had totally leaked under the car but when i refilled, it has not leaked again. Battery is only a month old
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Main question is - if the car does not re-start, are dealers my only option?
No, dealers are not your only option. While somewhat unique, most of the components of the car are from the GM catalog, so any good mechanic that knows GM will be able to work on it without much problem. The advantage of a dealer sometimes is that they will have a technician that has worked on one before, but that is getting less likely every year.

Does the engine turn over and not start, or not turn over at all? You could have left something on, or the battery could just be weak. I would try charging the battery or, if you can't do that for some reason, jump-starting the car.
 
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#7 ·
Always start with the basics as mentioned above just because your battery is new that does not mean it's fully charged I would put it on a charger and make sure it has a full charge there is no telling how long this has been sitting on a self and make sure your connections are tight and the ground that's on the top right of the engine block is clean and again tight . When was the last time your antifreeze was changed GM recommends every 5 years under normal use .The thermostats on these cars have been an issue might want to check that as well .Good Luck !
 
#8 ·
you could be dealing with two separate problems as was previously described. the battery being discharged, and an overheating problem.

There is known problem with Kappa platforms and overheating as a result of air bubbles being introduced into the cooling system. You cant just open the coolant reservoir and add Antifreeze. the sir bubble in the system could prevent it from circulating properly. i wrote a set of instructions for burping the system and installing a valve to prevent air bubbles in the future.

 
#9 ·
all I get is a clicking sound but the engine does not start.


Maybe be a few things going on hard to say without more info
"all I get is a clicking sound but the engine does not start. "-
so your getting spark -but no fuel possibly.
does the starter turn over at all?
Do you hear the fuel pump come on when you turn the key?

I know you want to correlate this to the over heat issue and they may or may not be related.

start with the basics and go from there.
spark, air, fuel, and compression
 
#10 ·
In my world "clicking" is the solenoid opening and closing due to low voltage. "Turning over" but not starting = "cranks but not starting" (again, in my experience.) "Fires but does not run" = attempts to start, chugs a few times, but won't continue to run.

As others have said, charge it and see what happens - that will address the "clicking" noise.

If it turns over / cranks but does not start, that is fuel or spark (or both) missing.

Your description makes it sounds like the coolant was completely drained or nearly so. If you filled it and it didn't leak (but you haven't had the car running since) I'm suspicious of the water pump having failed.
 
#15 ·
If try to jump start hAve to do only a special way per manual. I blew 60amp fuse when I jump stated and had to replace as check engine light came on although could still start car after jump. Also back several years ago I had problem mentioned by others in comments with air bubbles blocking coolant flow. GM fixed under recall by adding extra valve type part. I have too the gxp 2007. Still original battery.
 
#16 ·
Hey,
Sadly, if you have an intet,instant coolant leak it may well be the water pump rehearsing for it's big failure event. I have the same year gxp with 66k. Small puddle then nothing for two ,months..then a river. This will also contribute to running hot. Mine was consistently st 212 to 218 and 320 now and again. After the new pump and thermostat temps are now 184 to 194 tops. I ha a reliable local mechanic do mine....about $800 ...
 
#17 ·
I have replaced my waterpump twice. A sporadic, once in a while, puddle the first time. Leaked under pressure the second time. Checking coolant level, like oil should become a habit at every fill up. Pumps seem to last about 60 to 70 k. I changed my own. It's a time consuming job. But can be done if you have mechanical apptitude. If you choose to tackle it get the more expensive special tool. It's fully enclosed to reduce the chance of dropping the gear bolts in behind the timing cover. Put the battery on a charge, get it up to 12.5 - 13 volts. Wiggle the terminals to make sure they are tight. If you do not have a volt meter, you can get a cheapy one from almost anywhere. If it still clicks when you try to crank then you may need to take it somewhere.
 
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