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Discussion Starter #1
I posted about a snapped timing chain tensioner earlier in
https://www.solsticeforum.com/threads/timing-chain-replacemement.159385/

car is 2008 GXP

now I'm in the middle of an engine swap with a Euro spec ATK engine - I'm goign to swap intake and exhaust, keep new turbo

question to anyone that has done a engine pull.

how the hell to do you get to teh two bolts that go from engine into trans that are behind the cat? this is the two bolt holes ont he right on this pic. Does the turbo and exhaust manifold need to be pulled prior to engine removal?? I'm doing this w/out any manual, just good old intuition.

And after I get all of the water hoses out out of the way, are the two bolts from the trans into the top of the engine (two in teh middle) easy to get to, or another pain ?

thanks in advance.


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If they're behind the cat, why not just remove the cat?

Last time I did this, I pulled the engine and transmission as a single unit and did everything on the stand and shop floor. If you have an entirely new engine, why are you just taking pieces of it instead of doing the whole thing?

The factory service manual is invaluable when doing this job. It's one of the more well-written FSMs that I've come across. Failing that, look at the AutoZone.com repair guide section as their text is lifted directly from the factory service manual.
 

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I swapped engines while leaving the tranny under the car. I removed my entire exhaust before the swap because I got Magna-Flow before, so I had no cat there.
 

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Raygun, I'm only removing what is needed to pull the engine - I unbolted the cat (cant remove it with turbo still attached) and freed up enough space to get to the two bolts behind it that bolt the engine to the trans. Long extensions and swivels did the trick. 9 bell housing bolts, 2 motor mounts all out or loosened up. The flywheel bolts were probably the biggest pain. All should be coming out this weekend then swap only what is needed onto the new engine. Lots of wiring on these cars! I did order the shop manual - getting the feeling I may need it.
 

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My way is more fun. :)

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I don't know if you have thought of it but with the engine out is the best way, and may be the only way, to change the lower radiator hose. the rest can be replaced with DDM silicone hoses. Use smooth bore marine grade/style hose clamps, not worm drive... The smooth clamps have equal pressure, no damage, no leaks. You only want to do that once.

Richard Snipes
 

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You can replace the lower radiator hose without lifting the engine, but it's neither easy nor fun. I've done it with the rubber hoses but not the silicone.
 

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Raygun, I'm only removing what is needed to pull the engine - I unbolted the cat (cant remove it with turbo still attached) and freed up enough space to get to the two bolts behind it that bolt the engine to the trans. Long extensions and swivels did the trick. 9 bell housing bolts, 2 motor mounts all out or loosened up. The flywheel bolts were probably the biggest pain. All should be coming out this weekend then swap only what is needed onto the new engine. Lots of wiring on these cars! I did order the shop manual - getting the feeling I may need it.
This may be too late to help, but you can remove the cat with the turbo and engine still in the car to help give yourself more space. It's a funny rotation as you bring it down, I've had to pull mine twice. But leaving the cat off while you reinstall the new engine may help.

 

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That method works well. It's significantly easier if you remove the passenger side motor mount and, remembering to put a block of wood between your floor jack and the oil pan, lift the engine on that side a few inches. Removing the windshield cowl (roughly 6x 7mm bolts in addition to the two windshield wiper nuts) will give you even more room to lift. It wasn't obvious to me how much that would help until I tried it. A total of 10 nuts and bolts will save you a LOT of trouble.

I pulled the engine and transmission together because it was easier that trying to get at all of the transmission bolts with everything still in the car, pulling manifolds, etc. Working on an engine stand, or even on the shop floor, is a far less frustrating process.
 
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