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That certainly works for a manual if the rear wheels are blocked (or on the ground), but I'm surprised it works for an auto. I'm not very familiar with automatic transmission internals, but considering the engine spins when the car is in park and running... ?
No, you are perfectly correct. That won't work for an auto. No more multitasking for me. And I will edit my post. Thanks!
 

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That certainly works for a manual if the rear wheels are blocked (or on the ground), but I'm surprised it works for an auto. I'm not very familiar with automatic transmission internals, but considering the engine spins when the car is in park and running... ?
i agree, the torque converter will spin

Bill
 

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Well then it's a good thing I have a proper manual transmission then. Lol.
So you all are saying absolutely no harm will come to my engine if I pop it into 5th and block the wheels, vs putting in the flywheel lock tool?
Thanks SO much for your all's help here.
 

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Correct.
Personally, I'd put it in 1st, but I doubt it really matters.
Or, save yourself some stress and use a big impact gun. :)

I've had the engine out a few times and never even heard of the flywheel lock tool before reading this thread. Shrug.
 

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Correct.
Personally, I'd put it in 1st, but I doubt it really matters.
Or, save yourself some stress and use a big impact gun. :)

I've had the engine out a few times and never even heard of the flywheel lock tool before reading this thread. Shrug.
Why first? Fifth provides a torque division instead of a multiplication, so it should make it easier to keep the engine from turning.

Just like using first or reverse to hold the car on a hill, only in reverse. So to speak.
 

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I believe you are correct. I got it backwards. Damn little-pulley, big-pulley confusion strikes again.

I'm an engineer. I can't be expected to remember details. That's for technicians. :D
 

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It is usually possible to put a manual transmission in fifth gear, set the hand brake, and block the wheels. For an auto you are going to have to block the engine (as raygun will point out later).
Just wanted to shout out and thank you profusely for this gem of wisdom - WORKED LIKE A CHARM!
I have the covers off (both timing chain and valve) and rotated the crankshaft to align the colored chain links to the sprockets.
I am currently putting together a step-by-step video using my GoPro to hopefully help anyone trying to do this themselves in the future.
Also, head's up - the Service Manual isn't much help unfortunately, especially during the most difficult step; getting the turbo valve-cover-gas tube off to be able to remove the valve cover itself. LOL.
Wish me luck, hoping the rest is fairly straightforward - though when I started to remove the chain the exhaust sprocket jumped back a notch but I'm hoping that a 24mm wrench adjustment of that cam will line things up again (forgot to alleviate the tension on the chain before trying to move it).
Thanks again everyone. I'll keep this updated as I go.
Biggest thing I can say thusfar is make SURE you have good sockets, good wrenches, and very long ratchets to provide enough torque for some of the more difficult big bolts. :)
 

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In a pinch: take the handle off of your floor jack and put it over your ratchet / breaker bar handle. An extra three or four feet works wonders.

I've also ditched nearly all of my 12-point sockets over the last few years, because they suck.

In case it hasn't been mentioned and hasn't come up in your research: take the spark plugs out if you need to rotate the cams or crank. Put some masking tape in to cover the holes. (green frog tape works well, wide blue painters tape is slightly usable but doesn't stick well)
 

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In case it hasn't been mentioned and hasn't come up in your research: take the spark plugs out if you need to rotate the cams or crank. Put some masking tape in to cover the holes. (green frog tape works well, wide blue painters tape is slightly usable but doesn't stick well)
I see now that would have made a LOT more sense instead of me fighting the compression of the cylinders the entire time.
Needless to say I got my upper-body workout for the week... LOL.
Thanks so much, will remember next time.
 

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Alright. Quick update. This will all be in the video I'm making but I figured I'd give real-time info here (and also get your feedback).
I made the 'mistake' of following the Cloyes timing chain video verbatim - turns out that's not a good idea when working on a VVT engine (even though they say in the video that their instructions are for ALL models - including VVT).
Ran into a snag when the video said to use a 24mm wrench to turn the INTAKE camshaft to align the exhaust sprocket onto the camshaft dowel. Turns out (according to the Service Manual and having just done it myself) you need a 23mm wrench and you need to turn the Exhaust camshaft to align the sprocket onto the dowel... In fact, the Service Manual specifically states to NOT turn the Intake camshaft when doing this procedure...
To that end; since I had already tried to turn the Intake camshaft to make the adjustments per the video instructions, how bad is it that I heard two "CLICK CLICK"s on the intake VVT sprocket retarding? I had to remove the Intake sprocket and realign the position to align the chain in the correct mark on the sprocket again.
Bottom line - any chance my VVT sprocket is screwed or did I just manually engage a normal function of the sprocket?
Thanks again all :)
 

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In case anyone was interested in what the culprit was on the engine vibration:

107024
 

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Good day all. Here's the finale... and it didn't end as hoped.
Got everything together - triple checked EVERYthing, and turned over the key - started RIGHT up, runs beautifully.
After about 20min however, it showed the dreaded CEL... I hooked up my scanner and I get the P0017 and P0016 codes.
All research points to a messed up timing chain, though I don't know how on earth it's running so well if that's the case.
I took it down the road and rolled the dice; did a few pulls and the thing drives amazingly. Hit 20psi on the turbo and drove like a bat out of hell- no unusual noises.
I'm at a loss. Did I mess up? What on earth could this be? Very sad right now. A 3 week long endeavor ends in not-quite-triumph :-(
Thanks in advance for any insight :)
 

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That's terrible news.

Since you got both of them at the same time it has to be something that affects both intake and exhaust. What did you have apart, other than the timing chains? Switching the camshaft solenoids or sensor harness wires could cause this, as could a problem with the crankshaft sensor. Other than that it almost has to be the chain itself.
 

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That's terrible news.

Since you got both of them at the same time it has to be something that affects both intake and exhaust. What did you have apart, other than the timing chains? Switching the camshaft solenoids or sensor harness wires could cause this, as could a problem with the crankshaft sensor. Other than that it almost has to be the chain itself.
Indeed...
I think I'm going to have to take her in. The only thing I replaced was the timing and balancer chain and associated sprockets except for the crankshaft, exhaust cam and intake cam timing sprockets (since those are unique to Turbo and VVT EcoTech engines and I was advised not to change them per Cloyes).
I checked the solenoids and confirmed the correct orientation (EXH = Exhaust =Exhaust Cam shaft, INT = Intake). I also checked and confirmed the harness only goes on each one one way so I couldn't have mixed them up :-(
The frustrating thing is it's running so beautifully right now. No issues that I can find so far as operating the vehicle.

In a last-ditch effort; I tried replacing both solenoids but no dice.... Pending codes still there after clearing the codes.
So much work went into getting this done I'm a little broken inside, LOL. Tried to save a couple grand and it looks like I'll have to pay something to that effect anyway.
Thanks everyone for the help. I'll still post the video once I have to all together. Hopefully others can see what all is involved and maybe do a better job (or choose not to do it at all, lol).
Cheers :)
 

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Good luck. Someone with a diagnostic scanner can actually look at the sensor inputs (not just the codes) and find the problem pretty quickly.
 

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So now the "million dollar question" (more like thousands of dollars really); how bad is it if I still drive it like this?
I have an appointment scheduled for next Monday so will be driving it down there, but with no discernible performance issues or noises, I'd really like to be able to drive it. However I'm not sure if I'm somehow doing unforeseen damage to the thing.
IF it's off by a single tooth and the VVT is compensating somehow, will I destroy it if I continue to drive it?
 

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Ended up being a $1200 question... Mechanic said I was off by less than 10-degrees. Didn't want to risk it again myself. Learned a lot though, so not a total waste. Will still create a video with what was done so as to warn/assist others.
At least my baby is back and running beautifully, no more vibration, smooth as glass. :)
 

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To anybody who has had the balancing chain tensioner break. Does this sound like the vibration/noise you encountered?
http://www.facebook.com/stungjoe/videos/3981533325191937/
I took the car to a guy here in the Dallas area and he looked it over for every conceivable physical cause (engine mounts, harmonic balancer..so forth) and nothing seemed out of sorts. Matt (The Kappa Tech, not sure of screen name on here) and I feel like the next step would be the balancing shaft chain and components but I was looking for some advice based on the video if this is the proper course of action.
 
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