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Fidanza Flywheels are shipping today. All pre-orders will be processed and shipped ASAP.

Thank you all for your patience!

Jim
 

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gravana1 said:
Fidanza Flywheels are shipping today. All pre-orders will be processed and shipped ASAP.

Thank you all for your patience!

Jim

Hi, can you tell me a little bit about the performance gains?

Is it meant to improve torque, or improve high-rpm performance?

Do you lose any low-end torque with it?


Thanks!
 

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well you aren't really "gaining" any HP, but your engine is not working as hard to get the HP to the wheels.

with the lightened flywheel the engine will rev and and come down much faster.

there is some debate as to the benefits of a lightend flywheel, but i always thought is was a cool idea, although i have no first hand experience with one.

someone with more experience can probably explain much more than i.
 

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OBXSOL said:
well you aren't really "gaining" any HP, but your engine is not working as hard to get the HP to the wheels.

with the lightened flywheel the engine will rev and and come down much faster.

there is some debate as to the benefits of a lightend flywheel, but i always thought is was a cool idea, although i have no first hand experience with one.

someone with more experience can probably explain much more than i.
Are you sure it's lightened? That was what I was getting at. Typically, you buy a flywheel to match your performance goals. For example, in the Olds 455 Big Block that I have in my 81 TransAm, you would not want a lightened flywheel. The heavier the flywheel, the more torque the motor produces. The lighter the flywheel, the more top-end horsepower you can get.

The flywheel WILL actually give or take horsepower based on specific RPMs. On weighed flywheels, you can actually increase or decrese torque / power at specific rpms by moving it further down the radius. Not really an option on neutrally balanced flywheels, but by changing the weight of the flywheel you can improve top-end, or improve low-end.

I was just curious specifically where the gained power would be seen (or lost).
 

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I definitely think we need a little more info here about this flywheel.

So much for "selling the product".....:cool:

- bspate -
 

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Fidanza Billet Flywheel - NOW SHIPPING!!!

A Fidanza flywheel can mate with any type of clutch material, including organic, kevlar, ceramic, metallic and sintered iron. They attach the friction surface with military grade aerospace fasteners. The ring gears are made from 1050 steel and are heat treated for durability. The gears are heated then pressed on and secured with grade 8 button screws. Fidanza was the first to use a stepped dowel system in most of their flywheel applications. This doweling method ensures that once the pressure plate is installed the dowels cannot be removed because they become locked into place. No chromemoly can compete with the awesome serviceability, strength and superior design of Fidanza's aluminum flywheels. If there was a better material out there, Fidanza would be using it.

Notes :
This product normally ships in 2-3 business days. Estimated weight is 9.5-lbs. Fits Manual Transmission only!
I wouldn't be suprised if the stock flywheel weighed anywheres from 16lbs - 23lbs.
 

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82-T/A said:
Are you sure it's lightened? That was what I was getting at. Typically, you buy a flywheel to match your performance goals. For example, in the Olds 455 Big Block that I have in my 81 TransAm, you would not want a lightened flywheel. The heavier the flywheel, the more torque the motor produces. The lighter the flywheel, the more top-end horsepower you can get.

The flywheel WILL actually give or take horsepower based on specific RPMs. On weighed flywheels, you can actually increase or decrese torque / power at specific rpms by moving it further down the radius. Not really an option on neutrally balanced flywheels, but by changing the weight of the flywheel you can improve top-end, or improve low-end.

I was just curious specifically where the gained power would be seen (or lost).
i didn't mean to say that you won't be able to see a measurable difference in HP on a dyno at the wheels. just meant that if you were strictly looking at engine HP, there would be no difference, i guess.

now that i'm thinking about this, trying not to sound too ignorant, when they measure HP "at the flywheel" this is with the flywheel attatached, correct? if so, then yes you will see a gain in HP "at the flywheel" with a lightend flywheel (and correspondingly "at the wheels").

i think i'm done with this subject...i'm in over my head!!! :willy:

who's gonna shell out $400 and get a dyno...:)
 

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I've been doing some major research on this and from what I've read, 1st and 2nd gears will show a substancial improvement. In one of the articles I read where the stock flywheel was 25lbs with a 2.5L engine, in first gear it was equivalent to having 225lbs less in the car, nearly 80lbs in 2nd gear. It all depends on the gear ratios of course, but during a launch there should be noticeable improvement.
 

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Adrenaline said:
I've been doing some major research on this and from what I've read, 1st and 2nd gears will show a substancial improvement. In one of the articles I read where the stock flywheel was 25lbs with a 2.5L engine, in first gear it was equivalent to having 225lbs less in the car, nearly 80lbs in 2nd gear. It all depends on the gear ratios of course, but during a launch there should be noticeable improvement.
Well, remember, the heavier the flywheel, the more low-end torque it helps produce. The lighter the flywheel, the quicker the motor builds it's RPMs.

So off the line, you'll feel less pull... it'll feel weaker until it gets to around 3,000 rpms and then you'll start to see an improvement.

If you were going to drive your car on the highway ALL the time, racing around at high rpms, a lightened flywheel would be an excellent modification. Or, even if you were going to participate in something like the Petite LeMans or something... but, if your going to use it in stop and go traffic, stop light to stop light, you may want to consider keeping your stock flywheel.

These car manufactures don't just build a massively heavy flywheel cause they're stupid and they don't know any better... they build the flywheel in such a way as to give a good median between low-rpm torque and high-rpm horsepower. If all you want to do is just improve the "overall" power of your car, save your money and spend it on something else.

If you plan to rally or road-race your Solstice... then get this flywheel.

If anyone doesn't understand this concept, consider that the flywheel is a link between the motor and transmission. When you get that heavy flywheel moving, it acts like a spinning weight (balanced). The road is friction, and is constantly trying to slow you down, the heavier the flywheel, the more force it helps put against the resistance that is the road. It improves low-end torque until you begin to build rpms and then it becomes a hinderance.

Keep in mind, you MAY improve the quarter mile time by going with a lighter fly-wheel. But... when you're driving your car around in normal stop and go traffic, you'll have to practically floor it to get the car to accelerate as smoothly as say a GM sedan with the naturally aspirated 3800 motor.

Just FYI... keep that in mind if you're considering it.
 

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I had a light flywheel on my old Sentra SE-R. The car definitely rev'd faster and felt more responsive off the line. There wasn't any more hp/torque on the dyno though.
 

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mena661 said:
I had a light flywheel on my old Sentra SE-R. The car definitely rev'd faster and felt more responsive off the line.
This car would benifit from exactly that.

I think this is a good buy.
 

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I'm not an automotive engineer, but . . .

82-T/A said:
Well, remember, the heavier the flywheel, the more low-end torque it helps produce.
But, I don't think so. Here's a reasonable quote from one of the many vendors selling lightened flywheels:

How does a lightweight flywheel add horsepower?

Adding a lightweight flywheel does not add any hp to the engine (it can’t, as any engine in any given state will produce a given hp based on the temperature and the air density).

What adding a light flywheel does to your drivetrain is to lighten the overall reciprocating mass attached to the end of the engine’s crank, thus allowing the engine to rev faster thus accelerate faster.
I think that is the real story. :)

And I think Adrenaline had it right.
 

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OK, so it doesn't add hp or tourque, but wouldn't it shift peak hp and torque on a dyno - or am I just a bean bag troll :confused:
 

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It's just like Adrenaline said

It's like reducing the weight of the car in a very leveraged way (pun intended). So your power/weight goes positive, even though your hp and torque remain unchanged. Same effect as a lightened driveshaft, saving that rotating weight (mass).
 

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a flywheel, by definition, is an "energy storage device", that is, it stores its energy by rotating. when you accelerate, the lighter mass makes it easier for the engine to spool up. when you brake (in gear), it places less stress on your drivetrain becasue there is less weight to stop. like light wheels vs heavy wheels, and big rotors vs small ones.
 

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js_euler said:
It's like reducing the weight of the car in a very leveraged way (pun intended). So your power/weight goes positive, even though your hp and torque remain unchanged. Same effect as a lightened driveshaft, saving that rotating weight (mass).

You're not understanding the entire principal of what a flywheel does. It's not just a device used for the starter. Adding a lightened flywheel to ANY application will NOT automatically give you better performance across the board. You WILL gain top-end acceleration, but at the expense of low-end torque.

Like I said before, General Motors doesn't waste 26 pounds of steel for absolutely no reason at all. There IS a purpose to this. If you want to insist that you know what you're talking about, and that everyone should get one, then go ahead. I'm simply stating that you need to consider what the uses of this are with your application. If you live in the city, and you hit a stop light every 100 meters, this is NOT a modification for you. If you live in the suburbs, or you spend lots of time on the highway, then this IS the modification for you. I'm not trying to disuade anyone from buying it... I just want to dispell the myth that many passer-bys on here will think that... it'll improve the performance of their car throughout the entire RPM range.

Only reason why I'm being adamant about this is because this motor is a 4 cyl. It NEEDs as much low-end torque as it can get. The weight of the flywheel helps the motor build up torque through momentum.
 

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A lightened flywheel will have positive and negative effects. It will allow more HP to reach the rear wheels (less parasitic effect). It will also decrease the life of internal engine components (like the crank shaft) and it can turn your car into a "bucking Bronco" when you wind the engine up and then let off the gas. I would not want to guinea pig this mod but if not alot of time was put into the engineering of the stock flywheel (probably not), I could see a carefully designed and matched aftermarket flywheel improving the stock engine to a degree.
 

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Thanks to werks we know the stock flywheel is 21 lbs.

I was watching an episode of Sports Car Revolution in which they were building up an Acura RSX-S car. Moving to a Fidanza flywheel they freed up ~12HP at the top end. This was after some other mods first though like cams, intake, exhaust.
 

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brentil said:
Thanks to werks we know the stock flywheel is 21 lbs.

I was watching an episode of Sports Car Revolution in which they were building up an Acura RSX-S car. Moving to a Fidanza flywheel they freed up ~12HP at the top end. This was after some other mods first though like cams, intake, exhaust.

Yeah, I saw that... they were building a track car. Their goal was something that would be very competetive in SCCA racing.

The cams, intake and exhuast were all done at different times and had individual dyno results.


From their web site: (removed anything not having to do with the Acura)

http://www.sportscarrevolution.com/episodeguide.htm

Episode Six
Does a cat back exhaust really deliver the goods? The answer is revealed amid controversy we did not expect.

Episode Seven
Could a Mugen air box actually make horsepower. You may be surprised.

Episode Eight
Would you rip the engine out of a brand new Acura? We do as a part of the quest for more power.

Episode Nine
Cam shafts make power when properly applied. Just how to do that in a high revving, high tech v-tech is discussed in detail. 8800 RPM anyone?

Episode Ten
If you have a limited slip, does that mean you take a partial fall? We install a Mugen piece in the hope that an LSD will make for a shorter trip around the track.

Episode Eleven
Clutching at straws, we seek more performance from the Acura with a new pressure plate, clutch disc and a very light flywheel from TODA.

They did a dyno on the car after every show to show the improvements.

The Flywheel modifications were combined with some slightly adjusted tuning. They DID increase horsepower by replacing the flywheel. The horsepower gained was peak HP at around 8,000 rpms, but like I mentioned, it was at the expense of some low-end grunt.

But they were building this car as an SCCA track car. Not as a street machine.

They also hurt their acceleration when they went to larger disc brakes. This whole project was done more as a teaching tool for ricers. It was meant to dispel all of the typical ricer mods that people do on their cars. They made it a point to show that by going with larger diameter rotors, that it actually hurt the acceleration of the car. The point being that, unless you actually NEED the additional braking surface (for racing), then don't do this on your street car because you're going to actually go slower...
 
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