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Tires have plenty of tread left, they look almost new.
LOL
Tread has little to do with the ability of the tires to stay in contact with the road. How old are the tires? Are they the proper summer high performance tires? They are very sticky and generally you have to work hard at getting them to slip.

My guess based on little actual information is that your problem is the tires.
 

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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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Other than age I am not sure why the front tires are being recommended as a replacement?
Isn't fishtailing a rear end issue? If you only get two new tires (if that is indeed the issue) i would put the new tires on the rear and move the rears you have forward... Remember the type of tire you choose should be based on a variety of factors including driving style, geographical location and seasonal driveability expectations.
From the net:
When your rear tires lose traction—or grip—on the road, your car begins to slide on the road's surface rather than move in the direction you're steering. This is “fishtailing," which is also called acceleration skidding or over-steering.
 

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2007 solstice gxp automatic
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
It is just a rear end issue. It doesn't cause me to lose complete control of the car but I feel the rear end moving back and forth on corners that I've driven on for years without problems.
 

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2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP Coupe 001136
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It is just a rear end issue. It doesn't cause me to lose complete control of the car but I feel the rear end moving back and forth on corners that I've driven on for years without problems.
These are my last and wildest-donkeyed guesses:

1. The old front tires might have a much higher rolling resistance than the rears, either from age or from the compound/type. ANd/or the rears are less sticky than needed. Combo means the extra effort on curves from the forward rolling resistance outmatches the rear traction when there is sideways force on the latter.

OR

2. I suspect some change to the rear suspension geometry (any accident reports in your car's VIN history? Mods by a prior owner to lower or stiffen the rear?) because the rear tires are newer. Why did they wear out so much faster than the front, such that they had to be replaced? Unless one of the prior owners was a burnout king/queen...

BUT

Seriously, I'd go back to looking at the shocks/struts. Forum member HoosierGXP, who has disassembled and reconstituted more than a few Solstices, suggested I replace mine, though mine has less than 60k miles... Anyway, a place that does brakes & suspension service should be able to test them for function.

Now I'm all out of WAGs. Best of luck!
 
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I agree that it is probably just a tire issue, Miss matched brands and age of tires is never a good thing on any car with "performance". If the issue persists after the tires are replaced I would look at the front and rear alignment, also not a bad idea to look over all the suspension items for wear or loose hardware, like hub bolts.

But I am betting it is just a tire issue.

Don't be like my older sister in insisting all tires are round, black, rubber, and hold air. So there is no difference between them.
 
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Rear end moving around, but not fishtailing - 100% a brace issue.

My rear end was all over the place until I put a tunnel brace on it (from Performance Autowerks - but they're all the same). The DDM Probeam helped even more. The venom brace then helped a tad but more. The BR coilovers helped even a tad bit more.

Replacing 1 year old rear tires won't help.
 

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While I am not as technical as many others on this forum, there is something that no one has mentioned yet... expecially for drivers who are new to Solstice/Sky GPX world. the rear of a Kappa car can have a "wiggle" or looseness in the rear end when accelerating in the straight or turning situations. The DDM probeam (Probeam, Rear Suspension Brace by DDMWorks) eliminated this wiggle for us and our GXPs. Is this a possibility?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Rear end moving around, but not fishtailing - 100% a brace issue.

My rear end was all over the place until I put a tunnel brace on it (from Performance Autowerks - but they're all the same). The DDM Probeam helped even more. The venom brace then helped a tad but more. The BR coilovers helped even a tad bit more.

Replacing 1 year old rear tires won't help.
Gotcha thanks.
 

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I agree that it is probably just a tire issue, Miss matched brands and age of tires is never a good thing on any car with "performance". If the issue persists after the tires are replaced I would look at the front and rear alignment, also not a bad idea to look over all the suspension items for wear or loose hardware, like hub bolts.

But I am betting it is just a tire issue.
I agree with Jeff. Two different brands - and no one has asked - but probably two different tread patterns.

I always try to buy in sets of 4 - or at least 2 at a time. Same mfg., same tread pattern, same compound.
 

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your rear camber is either off or the corner is too sharp for the speed you are going if you have not braced the rear chassis. The rear chassis is not of the best design and it flexes with lateral forces. when it flexes the alignment in the rear of the car changes in a manner that is not good for traction in a corner. There is no warning that the car is going to fishtail it just happens out of no where. The reason why that happens is because of a small change in the road that causes the suspension to compress or extend and that coupled with the bad alignment geometry caused by the chassis flex triggers the loss of traction.

You can buy a DDM pro beam and/or a Performance AutoWerks rear frame brace and they do help. if you want to really stiffen it up it is pretty easy to do and you can get the materials at home depot for < 100 bucks. You would need to have tools to be able to bend and drill 1/8" thick steel. I can give you instruction on wat to buy and how to build what is needed to limit the flexing. Send me a PM if you are interested in this.

I would start by getting your rear alignment checked. the rear camber should be at -1° and the front should also be the same. There is a toe adjustment as well for the rear. I do not have the spec for that but it should also be checked.
 

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There is also a rcaster adjustment for the rear, and incorrect caster can cause pretty severe bumpsteer as well as rear tire wear.
 

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Rear end moving around, but not fishtailing - 100% a brace issue.
Now I agree with this. You had said "fishtailing" and I attributed that to tires, but if you really meant just 'moving around', then add the tunnel and pro-beam braces.
 

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The OP did say this is a new problem that they hadn't experienced before in familiar turns.
Assuming the accuracy there, I would lean towards the alignment and suspension wear comments here.
 

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Not 100% a brace issue. If you are getting the feeling that the back of the car lags behind when making a corner. It's hard to explain. almost like the back end is lazy or slow to make the corner and when it finally does it almost swings wildly... If that is the feeling you are having then your lateral links in the rear are shot. Super easy to check, Lift the rear of the car off the ground so the tires are hanging. gram one of the tires and move it as if it was a front tire that is steering. Pushing on the side of the tire to the front of the car and pull out on the opposite side at the same time. If you have any movement your lateral links are no good. Check both sides of the car.

Tire size is important, if you have a tire on the rear of the car that is wider then what the rim is designed to hold you will end up with what is called a cupped tire. It's where the sidewalls are pitched in at an angle to the wheel. The sidewalls should ideally be vertical. Excessive cupping will also cause the car to handle like I said above. What happens is the wheel will float inside of the tire and it can make it extremely hard to control in a corner. It's the same kind of a feeling if you have a 1/2 flat tire in the rear.

Both of those things are easy to check. Maximum width tire that should go on a factory Solstice wheel is a 275/40. Anything wider then a 275 and your tire is going to be cupping a lot. Seeing as the front tires are past their expiration date I am going to assume it has been a really long time since the car has had an alignment (if ever). Might want to get that don if it hasn't been done in the last year or two.

The other thing i I am going to bet you do not have the same tire on the front and the rear of the car seeing as how they are 10 years apart in age. Even if the make and model of the tire is the same make sure the tread pattern is the same. tire manufacturers will change tread patterns on a tire every so often. If they do not match I suggest you get 4 tires that are the same year make and model. Difference in compound and also tread pattern can cause all kinds off handling issues.
 
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