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I've seen a few older threads on this, and rather than bump one of them randomly for a similar question, I thought it best to start a new one.

I have an '06 Solstice. Like so many others before me, the battery connection has broken loose on both the original fob and the spare. They actually broke a long time ago, and I just haven't been locking the doors (I figure, with a cloth top, what's the point? If someone wants in bad enough to open the door and risk an alarm, they could just as easily cut the top).

I've tried to solder it back, but the solder I have simply falls off without melting in to place. It holds for about a minute, but the slightest shake makes it fall off, so it's not melting its way in to the hole.

A lot of you said that you soldered it back with no problem, so my question is, what type of solder are you using?

Someone else mentioned that the fobs have a lifetime replacement warranty, but I couldn't confirm that online and my local dealership isn't exactly trustworthy enough to ask. So, is that true or not?
 

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I've tried to solder it back, but the solder I have simply falls off without melting in to place. It holds for about a minute, but the slightest shake makes it fall off, so it's not melting its way in to the hole.

A lot of you said that you soldered it back with no problem, so my question is, what type of solder are you using?
Here are a few tips that might help you -- but it is difficult to teach proper soldering techniques via email. :devil:

Use rosin core solder, NOT acid core or plain solder without any flux core.

Make sure the connections are clean, as in using a very small wire brush.

Make sure the tip of your soldering iron or soldering pencil is clean and shiny (properly "tinned"). This is required for proper heat transffer

Typically, a job like this requires a 25-35 watt soldering pencil. Dad's old gasoline powered blow torch need not apply. ;)

Heat the work to a proper (high enough) temperature, but not so hot as you lift the copper trace from the printed circuit board.

Try to practice your technique first by soldering together a couple of small wires. This will give you an idea of the heat required to get the solder to "flow".

As a last resort go to You Tube or do a web search and look up something like "soldering technique". One video is worth a thousand words.

Good luck!
 

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I bought 2 brand new fobs off the E*** site for 15 shipped and had my dealer reprogram them
 

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All the above, with an extra tip. Go to home depot plumbing area and buy some flux paste ... smallest container you can find, and dab a little on the contacts and board before you start. That solder will flow right in.
I would respectfully suggest caution when using that type of flux unless you are positive of its chemistry.

AFAIK, it is acid based -- and for any type of electronic (or electrical) work, you never, Never, NEVER used anything acid.

Oh, did I mention never? :devil:
 

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If you have a Radio Shack locally you can pick up rosin flux there. TS is very familiar with soldering techniques and flux in a can can be had in several formulations. Yes acid based fuxes are bad. It'll work for a while though... :lol:

Soldering flux at Radio Shack
 

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I bought 2 brand new fobs off the E*** site for 15 shipped and had my dealer reprogram them
Wondered if the Ebay version is designed any better than the OEM, or if they are destined to fail after dropping as well? If so, resoldering the stock ones would be preferable.
 

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They are the same.
So just buying replacements on Ebay is pointless - an unending series of failures and replacements. Better to just repair the ones you have. I did that to both of mine as a preventative measure on one and to fix the one that had failed.
 

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So just buying replacements on Ebay is pointless - an unending series of failures and replacements. Better to just repair the ones you have. I did that to both of mine as a preventative measure on one and to fix the one that had failed.
If the board can be repaired, then yes. Plus no need for dealer re-programming.

The parts that make sense to buy off eBay are the case (if yours is broken/scratched) and the rubber membrane, which fails often. I got both a whole case and membrane as a spare (no circuit board) for $3.50 shipped:

New GM Keyless Remote Shell Pad Case Housing Replacement Fob Clicker Fix Button | eBay
 

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It sounds like he has the wrong solder. While I have been soldering for 40+ years, when I did the repair there was no technique required. Just make sure the parts get up to temp, are clean and you have the correct solder. No brainer.

Or alternatively, ship them to Radio or TS and have them do the job for you. ;):thumbs::thumbs:;)
 

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I'm glad I work in an electronics shop. I have miles and miles of SN96 at my disposal. pretty much works on anything electrical and flows perfectly. and we have bottles everywhere of flux if need be. I haven't had to work on mine but I had to do the one on my Outlander and a dozen or so TV remotes.
 

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Hi there!'

I had to re-solder both of my fobs. I've been soldering for 30+ years so it was no big deal.

The darn things started acting up again, though, and my first thought was that the joints had failed again. Not so. On mine, the rubber button's conductive pads were wearing out.

On Amazon you can buy a replacement fob housing and rubber button pad for a few dollars. It does not come with the electronics. That fixed mine, and as an added bonus, the writing on the buttons isn't worn off :)

Link: Amazon.com: 2006-2009 Pontiac Solstice Keyless Entry Remote Replacement Case and Pad (no electronics included) and Free World Wide Remotes Guide: Automotive

Titled "2006-2009 Pontiac Solstice Keyless Entry Remote Replacement Case and Pad (no electronics included)"
 
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