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Discussion Starter #1
My recently purchased 2008 Solstice GXP has been sitting in my garage for many weeks and the battery drained dead. When attempting to charge the battery, my charger wouldn't start changing until I disconnected the battery ground terminal. Now that the battery is fully charged, the car starts and runs fine, but the FOBs and Tire Pressure Sensors are not working.

I did a search on the internet finding no useful information, then I searched this forum.

Do I really need to take my 2008 Solstice GXP to a dealer to get this resolved? If I do, will it be permanently resolved, or will this happen every time a disconnect the battery? I really want to disconnect the battery when the car is stored off-season. Reading through previous posts, there may be a TSB "technical service bulletin", but I understand all TSBs have expiration dates.

I would appreciate any current information on this.
 

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Per the TSB, the dealer will reprogram the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) which also operates the TPMS system. The reprogramming is a permanent fix for the problem which only occurred in the 2008s.

It has to go to the dealer for this, and they will charge you for the service, I think. Maybe not. Don't know. If it was still in warranty it'd be a freebie, but all our Kappas are out of warranty now. A TSB is NOT a recall, but a "how to do it".

If you need a copy, you should be able to find it on the forum. Oh, what the heck, I'll just attach it to this message.

:thumbs:

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thank You DaveOC!

I will call my local GM Chevy service center and share the TSB with them. It is ridiculous that when the battery is dead or is disconnected, the problem comes back. I sure hope you are right about it being a permanent fix. I will get it done either for free or via payment, drive the car home, and disconnect the battery overnight. If the problem is back, I will head right back there.

Now I understand why the previous owner who bought the car new, emphasized to me not to ever let the battery run down. He used a battery tender and highly recommended I do the same. I disconnect batteries, not "tender" them, so I want this matter to be 100% history.

I am glad to learn of this right away. Winter weather here is still not yet over, but the roads are clean and dry for me to run to a dealer to get this resolved.

Thanks Again,
Ron
 

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Now I understand why the previous owner who bought the car new, emphasized to me not to ever let the battery run down. He used a battery tender and highly recommended I do the same. I disconnect batteries, not "tender" them, so I want this matter to be 100% history.
I also highly recommend a tender if you have AC power available. Even with the battery disconnected, it still has internal leakage which will cause 'sulphation' (battery failure). Using a tender will solve that problem.
 

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I recently had the same problem with the key fobs and TPMS. I took it to a local repair shop just a couple of blocks from here and he was able to get things back to normal operation. It is funny because he had a problem getting the tire pressure to read on the in-dash screen and finally he said "you know sometimes you have to disconnect the battery and let the system re-boot itself". We tried that and it did the trick. Disconnecting he battery did not affect the key fobs.
The problem started with a low battery, jump start situation.
This local shop won a customer for life. The owner used to work at a Pontiac dealership and is very computer savy and also a really nice guy to deal with.
 

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I also highly recommend a tender if you have AC power available. Even with the battery disconnected, it still has internal leakage which will cause 'sulphation' (battery failure). Using a tender will solve that problem.
I second the recommendation for a tender. Disconnecting and storing in a warm environment is better than leaving in freezing temps, but the tender is the best solution overall.
 

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I will call my local GM Chevy service center and share the TSB with them. It is ridiculous that when the battery is dead or is disconnected, the problem comes back. I sure hope you are right about it being a permanent fix. I will get it done either for free or via payment, drive the car home, and disconnect the battery overnight. If the problem is back, I will head right back there.
It only affected 2008s, so one would assume that the fix is more or less permanent. The RCDLR is the same part for all years, so it has to be the programming. Keep us informed. Thanks.

:thumbs:

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
One other thing that seems to have been affected.....the trunk release button in the glove box does not function. I can't open the trunk to put up the top. Now I have to drive to the dealer with the top down in this real cold weather.

I had the top in the trunk when working on and detailing the car as the battery drained.

Before I lost battery power, that button was a bit finicky. It always took a few tries to get it to open the trunk. Is that button known to fail?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I second the recommendation for a tender. Disconnecting and storing in a warm environment is better than leaving in freezing temps, but the tender is the best solution overall.
Our Solstice is stored inside our heated garage along with our motor home. As with my motor home and previous seasonal car, I always disconnect the negative terminal, fully charge the batteries, and top them off twice during the storage season. When I top them off in the slow charge setting, it is complete in less than a half hour so the residual drain is surely very little.

I could see the need for a trickle charger if leaving the battery connected because of the fast drain from on-board systems that remain active when the vehicle is turned off.
 

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The dash trunk open button is not working? Inside the glove box.

If your fob button is not working you can pop it open and clean the contacts or buy a replacement button pad for about $10 on ebay. I have replaced several and they work fine.
 

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One other thing that seems to have been affected.....the trunk release button in the glove box does not function. I can't open the trunk to put up the top. Now I have to drive to the dealer with the top down in this real cold weather.

I had the top in the trunk when working on and detailing the car as the battery drained.

Before I lost battery power, that button was a bit finicky. It always took a few tries to get it to open the trunk. Is that button known to fail?
That button is a mechanical item, yes it can fail. Or, it could just be dirty, or corroded. If the battery is dead, it won't work. Pull it out and test it.

:thumbs:

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Discussion Starter #12
The dash trunk open button is not working? Inside the glove box.

If your fob button is not working you can pop it open and clean the contacts or buy a replacement button pad for about $10 on ebay. I have replaced several and they work fine.
The dash trunk open button in the glove box is NOT working, this new issue seemingly is connected to both key FOBs and TPS not working after my battery drained and I disconnected it from the car to charge it better. As I said in a post or two earlier, that glove box hatch button was previously finicky so I cannot rule out the possibility that it failed at the worst opportune time.

I am setting up a visit to the local Chevy dealer (with top-down in cold weather) to get that software update to resolve the FOB/TPS problem. Maybe the hatch release in the glove box will also get resolved as a result.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That button is a mechanical item, yes it can fail. Or, it could just be dirty, or corroded. If the battery is dead, it won't work. Pull it out and test it.

:thumbs:

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The battery is now charged and doing fine.

I think you are right. Being that the trunk release switch was finicky before all this, I should pull it and test it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Good to know Rob. Thank You. I just ordered a release button, will replace the original one with it. Maybe afterward I can get the top back up before heading over to the dealer.

BTW: I called two local Chevy dealers on reprogramming my Solstice RCDLR module to fix the FOB and TPS issue.
The first was $130...ouch!
The second was $138.50 yikes!
 

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The dash trunk open button in the glove box is NOT working, this new issue seemingly is connected to both key FOBs and TPS not working after my battery drained and I disconnected it from the car to charge it better. As I said in a post or two earlier, that glove box hatch button was previously finicky so I cannot rule out the possibility that it failed at the worst opportune time.

I am setting up a visit to the local Chevy dealer (with top-down in cold weather) to get that software update to resolve the FOB/TPS problem. Maybe the hatch release in the glove box will also get resolved as a result.
It was in anticipation of a situation exactly like this that I installed an emergency hatch release cable. When my keyfobs weren't working and the only way to access the hatch was the button in the glove box it got me thinking. I thought that the emergency release cable in the trunk was totally useless since no one could possibly fit in the trunk anyway. So I tucked the release handle behind the trunk fabric liner and extended the cable down through the tub with a t-handle on the end of it. Now if there is a situation where the fobs or push button do not work I can lay on my back, reach around the exhaust system, locate the t-handle and with a simple tug the hatch pops open.
I trust you guys to keep my secret.
 

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Now if there is a situation where the fobs or push button do not work I can lay on my back, reach around the exhaust system, locate the t-handle and with a simple tug the hatch pops open. I trust you guys to keep my secret.
Most people, when they did that "mod" rerouted the cable to behind the driver's seat in the back panel.

YMMV

:thumbs:

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Discussion Starter #19
Waiting for the new hatch release button from Amazon, I disconnected the plug from it and shorted the two terminals together with a needle-nose pliers. It popped open. I have a roof again! Now I can run to the dealer without freezing my butt off.

I am now trying to figure out how to remove the bad button from the glove box housing....squeeze those two tabs? It is surely not easy given the restricted space to work with.
 

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I don't remember exactly, but I had to have my '08 Sky re-programed and it cost just about what you mentioned below. Very hard to believe that a programming flaw that they "know" about, and yet they (GM and the Stealership) nail the customer for this. I wasn't happy, not at all....

Quote from ron.dittmer: BTW: I called two local Chevy dealers on reprogramming my Solstice RCDLR module to fix the FOB and TPS issue.
The first was $130...ouch!
The second was $138.50 yikes!
 
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