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Yes, the relays are diagonally symmetrical and can be plugged in either way without issue. It's true that some DC-energized relays have diode snubber and protections built in, such that the coil voltage must be applied in a certain way. But those types are not diagonally symmetrical.
I have had one diagonally symmetrical relay work in only one direction. I know it should have worked in both, but it didn't. Since then, if I am having a problem that could be a bad relay I always reverse it. It has been a waste of effort so far, but at least it serves to eliminate the question that I agree should not be there in the first place (but is anyway).

In the same vein, I once had a battery explode when I was starting an engine and now I will never be in line of sight with any battery when starting any engine. 19 years and who knows how may engine starts later it hasn't happened again, but i still won't do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Ok I’m back. Today with a little help we had tested the sockets to the bulbs they were good. The relay is not clicking when the switch is presssed. We changed out the relays still nothing. By bypassing the relay the fog lights came on. Loosened the fuse box and checked the purple wire to see if it was in place. It was. So the problem remains.
 

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Ok I’m back. Today with a little help we had tested the sockets to the bulbs they were good. The relay is not clicking when the switch is presssed. We changed out the relays still nothing. By bypassing the relay the fog lights came on. Loosened the fuse box and checked the purple wire to see if it was in place. It was. So the problem remains.
That is good progress, you have at least eliminated several possible causes of the problem.

There are three wires to the control switch:
  • GY = Variable voltage for the switch backlight
  • OG = Signal wire from the BCM. Probably 5V, but it could be anything up to 12V
  • BK = Chassis ground
Turning the dimmer switch all the way up should get you 12V on GY, and the backlight should illuminate. You should have 0V on BK. If you do not have 0V on BK, find the problem with the switch ground.

If you do not have 5+V on OG, check for it at the BCM. It is connected to X2 on the BCM, which is the connector on the right side, oriented up-to-down. There are 72 pins in X2 arranged in 4 rows, and you want #16 which is in an outside row, second from one end. It is the only OG wire in that connector. If you have 5+V there but not at the switch, look for the break in the wire. You can also try grounding that connector to the chassis.

If you have 0V on BK and 5+V on OG, push the switch. OG should go to 0V. If it does not there is a problem with the switch. Try grounding the OG to the chassis ground directly.

NOTE: When grounding something like this to the chassis it is always best to use a wire with a small-rated fuse to protect against inadvertant shorts.
 

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If you check all the stuff JR said above and still have issues, the other thing here to check is the main plug/connector setup under the underhood fuse block. Peopl have reported corrosion and/or cracking under there. (Though how it only affects the fog relay may be a stretch :) )
 

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Silly question, maybe I missed it:

Did anyone ever tap into the electrical system or repair it in the past?
 

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Silly question, maybe I missed it:

Did anyone ever tap into the electrical system or repair it in the past?
That question very likely has no answer. Post #3:
When I purchased my solstice the Fog lights were not working. I don’t here the relay at all. Would it be loud enough to hear? When I changed out the switch the wiring seemed ok. I have not checked the grounds on the lights. Where will I find them. I’ve owned it two months .
 

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Discussion Starter #29
My friend J thinks there was an attempt to fix at some point. Under the fuse box someone marked it with a sharpie.
 

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That question very likely has no answer. Post #3:
:) Sure it does. Anything aftermarket could be a tip off. And to be fair, you or I could tell by examining the wiring overall. A person really doesn't need to be IPC A 620 certified (I am though) to see if it's been monkeyed with ;)

A guy who's good with this stuff could even make repairs that are better than factory and that would tip us off. But if that were the case the lights would work, lol
 

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My friend J thinks there was an attempt to fix at some point. Under the fuse box someone marked it with a sharpie.
I can't think of a reason an assembler would mark anything like that. You've isolated it to between the relay and the fuse box.

John's advice is going to be your key.
 
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