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I've been curious if anyone uses a different full synthetic motor oil for their Sol. I think the mandatory requirement is Mobil 1 full synthetic per the owners manual and the oil cap. My latest brief research into cheaper alternatives turns up Wally World and Amazon Basics with the same or near same API ratings API SN Plus (which is the highest rating). It kinda scares me to think of these as cheaper but what seems same alternative. I'm sure I'm going to get schooled here, but it would be interesting to hear thoughts of the group. Truth be told, I'll probably stick with Mobil ! just because of heard mentality...
 

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Amsoil full synthetic for me
 

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even the GM dealers do not use Mobil 1 any more.
The dealers now use some no-name brand, a Mobile 1 knock-off...
 

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me... I still use Mobil 1. I buy it at Walmart when it is on sale for $23
 

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The actual spec is in the owners manual. If you do your research on it it'll basically lead you to a list of every modern synthetic oil, synthetic always being recommended for any turbo engine (and just about every other engine as well.)

It was a bigger deal back in the day because there were only a few oils that met the spec but since nearly every new car comes with a direct-injected turbo engine now, the oil is much easier to find.

Like I've said a dozen times before, unless you've significantly modified your engine, it's still just a Gen 2 Ecotech. They spit out over 10 million of them, continue to do so, and are generally considered pretty robust. You don't need to pay for some exotic oil, filter, or service. If you want to, then by all means feel free. But it's not required.
 

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P.S. In case anyone didn't know, pretty much anything that isn't a brand name - and even some of those - comes out of the same Warren Distribution factories. If you look close enough at the container, you'll find it printed on the label somewhere.
 

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Oil is the lifeblood of any engine that's why I use a name brand in all my vehicles and do regular changes every 3 thousand miles .. After a lot of research and talking to a rep from Driven products I have used their LS series oil in my car ,it is specifically blended for turbo and supercharged engines I'm a firm believer in you get what you pay for .
 

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even the GM dealers do not use Mobil 1 any more.
The dealers now use some no-name brand, a Mobile 1 knock-off...
"Dexos" from GM dealers is an oil specification. Most synthetic and synthetic blend motor oils are Dexos certified.

If you are curious or concerned, Google "dexos oil" and do a little reading.

GM requires Dexos certified oils in order to maintain your warranty on all 2011 and newer GM vehicles.

YMMV

:thumbs:

.
 

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P.S. In case anyone didn't know, pretty much anything that isn't a brand name - and even some of those - comes out of the same Warren Distribution factories. If you look close enough at the container, you'll find it printed on the label somewhere.
Because it comes out of the same distribution factory does not mean it is the same product. The additive package can and will vary considerably. People should be Careful to making leading statements.
 

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You may find Mobil 1 to actually be your cheapest option. Every spring and fall they offer rebates. Usually $17 off a Mobil 1 filter and 5qt purchase. Combine that with the recent combo price at advance auto parts. I got 5 qt jug of Mobil 1 EP and a Mobil 1 filter for $19 net. Rebate is submitted electronically and takes me about 4 weeks to get.
 

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MOBIL1 here in Detroit is cheaper then dino oil. It's $11 for 6 qts at WallyWorld....all the time.
 

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I use Castrol Syntec which is Dexos compliant. I change the oil and filter annually or when the oil life indicator is at 10%, which happens between 6k and 10k miles. My current "fleet" has 300k cumulative miles with no engine problems. Occasionally I will send a sample out to Blackstone for analysis and there has never been an indication that the oil was overdue for changing.
 

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i wont use mobile oil.....but no you dont have to use it, use any name brand that fits the specs&weights. I usualy alternate my brands, castrol,quackerstate,penisoil valvolina etc,and many times I mix them to get the different additives used by some and not by another. I dont use the walmart brand,Ive seen tomuch carnage from walmart branded oils...( back in the 90's Im sure it's good oil nowdays, same company makes amazons oil and many other off brand oils) there is 1 drawback to syn oil that I do not like...it's not stickey and drains back faster than dino oil. I use quacker state blend dffy/high millage in the wifes honda and alternitivy in my air cooled bug with straight 5-20 syn. that quacker state has more zinc in it than most oils do and my bug needs it for the high spring pressures& mushroom cam it has in it. never add zinc to a oil unless it's just for the first break in period of 1 hour or less. zinc is a converter killer and causes ash deposits in the chambers with results in detonation/hot spots.
 

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I've been curious if anyone uses a different full synthetic motor oil for their Sol. I think the mandatory requirement is Mobil 1 .
Cant be mandatory only a suggestion. Parts of Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act if its mandatory for warranty they have to give it to you for free. Full synthetic would give better protection from coking your oil with a turbo. My F150 suggested oil is a synthetic blend not even full and has 2 turbos so go figure. I use Mobil in the Sol and their filter. With only 1 oil change a year for me not that big of a deal cost wise even if it were at full list
 

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whatever you do, don't go from synthetic to dino back to synthetic, as a rule of thumb. Dino oil can swell seals. Not sure if this was a consideration or design issue when the cars were made, but in general, don't go dino to synthetic.
 

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whatever you do, don't go from synthetic to dino back to synthetic, as a rule of thumb. Dino oil can swell seals. Not sure if this was a consideration or design issue when the cars were made, but in general, don't go dino to synthetic.
I did, with the 2.4s in my NA Sky and my Equinox. I have not had problems with either one.
 

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back and forth will no swell the seals unless you add some snake oil that does it. seals should last longer with syn oil,some seals are made to work with syn oil . but old dino seals may be hard and seal dino but not seal syn due to it being oh so thin&smaller tiny things in it.....and syn flows better....for better or worse it flows. ypu can pour goose greessee in it under warranty it's still covered...we had a costomer that only used the cheepest crap walmart oil back in the 90's.after atleast 4 new engines posiably more under warranty he was no longer under warranty and used name brand oil and never had any issues,...boy were we and the manufacture happy it was out of warranty. ( V6 yamaha outboards). the oil met all the specs but was garbage. I usualy use a lessor price oil for breakin , I also use the proper breakin additivs. and I have atleast 5 oil& filter changes on my new engines withen the first week of life to keep the oil clean of debris&get the additivs out of the system..I have never had any oil issues. oil filters clog quickley and then they just bypass the unfiltered oil straight to the bearings. massive amount of debris are created breaking in a new engine, it's normal.( not to be confuzed with a engine eating it's self alive) the debris are microscopic, but they are there none the less and are abrasive. breaking lubes can clog a filter quickley too.( not so bad with roller cams but flat tappet cams require alube that will totaly clog the filter in just over a hour....possiably less depending on other factors.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for all the input on this subject. Seems like it's all over the grid, but it's good to hear different opinions and it seams there are options if someone is in a pinch.
 

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I did, with the 2.4s in my NA Sky and my Equinox. I have not had problems with either one.
Not sure what your intent here is John, but I doubt it was to just update me on your progress so far.

I used terms like "as a rule of thumb" and "in general". I also said "Not sure if this was a consideration or design issue when the cars were made".

I am very happy to learn you have had no problems. This does not negate my statements about dino oil swelling seals.
 

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Not sure what your intent here is John, .........
My intent was to suggest that in my opinion your dire warning is not particularly applicable to most people, especially the way you worded it.

Warnings against using synthetic in cars applies pretty much exclusively to those built before the turn of the century, or to synthetic oil produced in the same era.

Since the '90s engine seals are made from better materials, and the composition of the synthetics has fewer esters and other aggressive components.

Yes, if you have a high-mileage pre-2000 car and a case of vintage Mobile-! hanging around, you probably should not introduce the two to each other.
But if you want to start putting some fresh-off-the-shelf Castrol Syntec in your 2007 Solstice, I think you can do that without concern.

As far as that goes, the problem never was that mineral oil caused seals to swell, it was that early synthetics would attack already worn seals and that it would flow through places that the stickier mineral oil wouldn't, like worn seals. I have actually not seen any professional advice against putting synthetic into an older high-mileage engine as long as it has been well maintained, and Castrol makes an oil for just that purpose.

Agree or disagree, I'm OK either way, and I would really hope that someone concerned about the topic would search for information somewhere other than here.
 
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