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Where do you live? Many of those products I don't believe would handle freezing temperatures well.
 

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I have done all the above and am now happy with a Race Deck. I use the high gloss version from big floors. Mine stays pretty much prestige as the kappas do not go out in bad weather. If you are bringing mud and snow into the garage then consider the slotted floor that drains well
 

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I would NEVER lay anything over the old carpet, not matter what product you choose. Humidity, rot, mildew, etc. It'll be a lot of work, but I'd strip it down and go from there.

As for the "polymer" lock in place tiles, I'd pay attention to what they're made out of for chemical resistance issues. I'm sure you're like most of us, if you see a drop of ANYTHING under your Kappa you're on it! But you also have to consider what you would be using to clean the floor with. I've even molded (at my employer) some of the lock together tiles and I would never use it due to the gaps in them - growing and shrinking with temperatures. I just think you'd get a lot of dirt in the seams.
 

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I have the same race deck.they look new after several years. When I do damage one, which happens if I drop something very heave on my foot... The tiles are very easy to replace. Mine stay very clean. I vacuum them and occasionally use Adams VRT on them.

You can see the floor in the pics I just posted in the Punisher thread
 

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I painted mine a few years back and it's due for a do-over. I already have the paint. just need the 3 days to pull everything out, pressure wash, paint and stick it all back in. Gonna texture and paint the walls and ceiling too. a guy down the street has gray epoxy on his and it has held up nicely. that's the way to go if you have a clean surface and about $700 for 3 kits. If you have glued carpet, I'd go with an industrial 12x12 tile, say black and white checker board but you are gonna have to rip everything out and clean it real good. You might even consider renting a grinder. we just pulled glued carpet out of an office and layed down ESD epoxy and they brought grinders to remove the old glue and carpet debris. good luck.
 

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I did press and place tile. Looked great for a couple of years, then went to crap. I used to drive cars inside in the winter with mud and snow. Had to hose it out every time the snow left.

Then went with floor paint, looked good for a month, then bad.

Tried epoxy paint. Industrial special order paint. Lasted two years then I had to redo it. And the next coat did not adhesr well.....

Finally went with race deck. It is not cheap but it is great for walking and crawling on. No more creeper. It reflects light very well. I have five different lighting circuits in the garage. It cleans well and is very easy to repair. It's between $2 and $4 a square foot if you shop online. Costco sold black and white packages pretty cheaply that got me started.
 

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I have plain cement but don't like the dust that it causes. The Race Deck tiles seem like a good idea, you can take it up and with you when you move!

My only concern would be that the tiles would be damaged by jack stands and their texture might make it a pain to position floor jacks.

Another thing to consider would be wax coat over plain or stained cement. Just recoat every other year: http://www.concretecamouflage.com/cat-floor-wax.cfm
 

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well, the tile I was talking about is a glue down. then you have to either use wax which probably needs to be chemically stripped probably once or twice a year depending on use or you can clear coat it. I have access to all the chemicals, wax and floor buffer which is what you need to strip it but that's a lot of work. if you can get the race deck and then forget about it, that seems like a much more cost effective alternative.
 

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Can Am car I did for a customer.
Norm, not a Canam car, it obviously predates that series, but looks like a really cool A or maybe B sports racer from the 60s. What is the chassis? (You can probably tell I've spent a lot of time in vintage racing!).

On the floor issue, either use bare concrete and ignore oil stains (or don't ignore them and waste/spend a lot of time on trying to clean it) or apply some commercial coating, but bear in mind that the cost is directly proportional to the performance of the coating. A good friend who had a half dozen cars in his stable opted for a coating that was a 'good buy' and wound up having to stick heavy paper squares under the tires of his cars because they stuck t the coating and lifted it (for months after it was applied!)
 

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Norm, not a Canam car, it obviously predates that series, but looks like a really cool A or maybe B sports racer from the 60s. What is the chassis? (You can probably tell I've spent a lot of time in vintage racing!).

!)
Hello, yes youre correct. I just say that to say that. The car was featured in Car Craft Magazine 1960 not sure of the month without looking it up. The chassis is a tube frame with a hewland rear transaxle 283 chevy 3 carb Wieland setup. All I got from the customer was the frame as I made the body from scaleing up the pictures from the mag. It was sponsored by Dan Blocker from Bonanza fame. Thanks Norm







That's me.

A few more of his cars, that I did a little on, for example making that Ferrari 500 front windshield and headlight covers.


 

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Wow. All I can say is it sure does not start out pretty does it. that thing is immaculate and I praise you for your excellence. I've always considered myself a pefrectionists but you are on a whole nother level my friend. Nice work!
 

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Hello, youre right it doesn't start out pretty at all. Once the multipiece molds are done then the foam and bondo patterns get destroyed leaving the bare frame. Once the molds are finished then you can make parts, sounds easy!









 
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