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Been searching for the right GXP for a while, finally found one and pulled the trigger a couple of weeks ago. Car runs great, no issues mechanically, but now I'm having an issue with the gas gauge. First fill up on the way home was fine, gauge went all the way to full. Second fill up I didn't pay much attention to the gauge but the next day I realized it was showing about 1/2 full after only 20 miles or so. I wasn't completely sure that I didn't have some sort of leak or maybe I was losing my mind and didn't really fill it up, so I went back to the gas station and was only able to put a couple gallons in. Even after that, the gauge only went to just past half full (maybe 5/8ths or so). I did a little bit of searching, but couldn't find the exact same issue. Sending unit maybe? I assume there's an in tank float? I really hope this is something that can be resolved without dropping the tank. I haven't driven it enough to say for sure that it's just going to sit at the current level until it really should drop to half or less.

Thanks for any insight you can give.
 

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Yes there is an in-tank float and yes there is somewhat of a history of them getting gummed-up (a technical term) by bad fuel. There's even a TSB somewhere as I recall. I'll try looking for it.

UPDATE: OK, found it... Fuel gauge glitchy
 

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interesting. I'll definitely try adding some additive and letting it run through the rest of the tank. definitely easier than throwing parts at it. could be bad gas for sure.
 

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interesting. I'll definitely try adding some additive and letting it run through the rest of the tank. definitely easier than throwing parts at it. could be bad gas for sure.
One good note. You don't have to drop the tank to change the fuel pump, if it comes to that. Easy to et to right under the trunk floor liner.
 

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I went through this a couple of years ago. What I found out - in my case anyway - is that the leads that attach to the ceramic circuit board that the float arm contact sweeps across are very flaky. It's just a loose friction fit held in place by a plastic housing. I could mildly tap on the float assembly and make it go open circuit. It's a very poor design in my opinion. I bought a new pump assembly and it worked for a while then had the same problem. I then JB Welded the leads in place and that worked for a while then the same problem. Finally I put in a second replacement pump assembly and this one has been working fine for the past 3 years.

I had initially read about the gumming contact problem but I didn't see anything like that on my 10 year old pump. It's a ceramic pcb submerged in solvent. It's perfectly clean. You can access the pump from inside the trunk which is nice but I highly recommend purchasing the retaining ring removal tool if you end up replacing your pump/float.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
good info guys, thanks. at least I won't have to cut a hole in the floorboard to access the pump if needed like I've done on at least 4 different Camaro's now haha.
 

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Here's a pic of my original pcb (half of it anyway) and the connection for the lead removed from the plastic housing. Not a very robust contact.

108701
 

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I went through this a couple of years ago. What I found out - in my case anyway - is that the leads that attach to the ceramic circuit board that the float arm contact sweeps across are very flaky. It's just a loose friction fit held in place by a plastic housing. I could mildly tap on the float assembly and make it go open circuit. It's a very poor design in my opinion. I bought a new pump assembly and it worked for a while then had the same problem. I then JB Welded the leads in place and that worked for a while then the same problem. Finally I put in a second replacement pump assembly and this one has been working fine for the past 3 years.
I wonder if the "disrupt electrical continuity" that the TSB talks about is exactly that contact?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So same thing on my last "fill up". Gauge was almost on empty, DIC showing low as the range, but I could only put in about 5 gallons before the pump shut off and the gauge only went to about 5/8ths again.

I'm back down to empty according to the the guage and DIC, but I know the tank isn't empty as I reset the trip odometer and I'm only at ~120 miles. I'd like to get as close as I can to actually emptying the tank so that I can throw some Techron cleaner in it. Since the DIC thinks I'm almost empty, is the car going to shut down on me even though the tank isn't empty if I continue to drive it? I know if I go back to the pump right now, I'll be in the same situation as last time. My main concern right now is actually running the tank close to empty, but I wanted to be sure the computer wasn't going to override the actual gas in the tank.
 

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So same thing on my last "fill up". Gauge was almost on empty, DIC showing low as the range, but I could only put in about 5 gallons before the pump shut off and the gauge only went to about 5/8ths again.

I'm back down to empty according to the the guage and DIC, but I know the tank isn't empty as I reset the trip odometer and I'm only at ~120 miles. I'd like to get as close as I can to actually emptying the tank so that I can throw some Techron cleaner in it. Since the DIC thinks I'm almost empty, is the car going to shut down on me even though the tank isn't empty if I continue to drive it? I know if I go back to the pump right now, I'll be in the same situation as last time. My main concern right now is actually running the tank close to empty, but I wanted to be sure the computer wasn't going to override the actual gas in the tank.
No one has ever reported the engine shutting down because the fuel gauge read empty, and I haven't seen that documented. Realistically it wouldn't make sense anyway, since a failed fuel gauge would keep the car from running.

The fuel gauge and the "Range to Empty" are effectively the same thing. The fuel gauge is a visual depiction of range, and not of the actual level.
 

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That's exactly what I figured, I just wanted to be sure there wasn't some electrical nuance that I'm not aware of. I thought I had seen some instances of the mechanical gauge and the distance to empty in the DIC not lining up and just wanted to be sure the computer didn't do anything wonky if the DIC read empty. I'll run it based on the trip odometer and the MPG and see if I can get it low enough for the fuel cleaner to do anything before the next fill up. Thanks!

Anyone know offhand the tank capacity?
 
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