[Hydranis]

Once in a while, when I start my car and drive it it will only get a maximum 5 pounds of boost registered on the stock gauge. The car literally has NO pep at all, yet is still drivable as if the turbo isn't working. I can still hear the turbine spinning when I press on the pedal, but it's not generating the usual power.

One thing I've noticed though, is that I don't hear my blow-off valve when this is all going on. The usual "whistle" cannot be heard when I let off of the gas.

I've heard people talk about this "limp" mode with the GMPP tune due to the wires, but this doesn't feel like that. Friends say that they thing my blow-off is getting stuck in the the open position and just spitting all the air out, but I don't hear it.

But usually the next time I drive my car it's fine. This happens maybe 1 out of every 5 times I take the car out and I've dealt with it for over 2 years without any real concern.

 

[Treeman]

Have you checked for codes? Sounds like limp mode to me. Take it to an Autozone or equivalent and ask them to check for codes. They do it for free.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

[TomatoSoup]

Check your Intake Tube worm clamps - especially on the driver side (both end of rubber tube into the throttle body). They can loosen or give way and let out 'burps' of air under full boost. This then makes the ECM default into limp mode.

Replace with T-clamps (DDM sells a kit of clamps of the correct sizes).

In any case, loosen them off and check the 'grooves'. This is what can happen:

 

[WickedMike]

Still sounds like connections from the GMPP tune. If they used crimp connectors remove them and solder wires. Mine has run perfect since correcting.

 

[WickedMike]

Hydranis: Did you ever figure out why your car is acting the way it is?

 

[Seltzinator]

One other thing it could be. Are you trying to drive like Hell's Bells while the engine is cold? It's going to cut boost and limit power while the car is in warm up. Keep an eye on your temp gauge and wait for it to be at least 180F before gunning it.

 

[Hydranis]

Sorry, havn't updated. Since this post, I havn't had the car out due to the weather. I plan on taking it to a shop to have the codes run and see what else comes up. Warren messaged me on Facebook and said that he was having a similar issue and it was some sort of solenoid on the turbo that is either weak or damaged. I havn't looked into it yet though.

 

[Hydranis]

Hey guys! Big update (Sorta). I finally had the solstice out since the weather is FINALLY starting to break here in New Jersey. Took her down to Autozone to run some codes and came back with: P0236 and P013A.

One has to do with the O2 sensors because of my SOLO Street Race Exhaust, so I'm not worried there. The other one deals with the turbo and probably has something to do with me only getting 5 psi of boost.

Any idea what part might be failing or what needs fixing?

 

[TomatoSoup]

That's a boost sensor code. Solder the GMPP sensor wire splices (like WickedMike said).

 

[RotaryPiston]

This is your 3rd recommendation for fixing the problem

Still sounds like connections from the GMPP tune. If they used crimp connectors remove them and solder wires. Mine has run perfect since correcting.

That's a boost sensor code. Solder the GMPP sensor wire splices (like WickedMike said).

WickedMike and TomatoSoup are correct on this.

It is the GMPP sensor wire crimps that are losing connection. You need to have all of them soldered together.
Remember, there are 2 sensors with 3 or 4 wires each that need to be soldered.

This happened to my friends Saturn Sky Redline (SKYinvader) last year. Happens from time to time of max 5 psi, etc. He soldered the GMPP sensor wires and never had a problem since.

 

[Hydranis]

All right. Is there any reputable place I can go to have this done, or is it something I have to do myself? I'm not comfortable with my soldering to properly put these wires together.

 

[RotaryPiston]

All right. Is there any reputable place I can go to have this done, or is it something I have to do myself? I'm not comfortable with my soldering to properly put these wires together.

You could do this yourself for less than $20. If you have a soldering tool, you just pay for the solder and that's maybe $5. My friend just simply took each wire off at a time and soldered, then repeated for each wire until complete. That way he did not lose which wire went where and it was essentially "dummy proof".

Any ASE certified shops should be able to do this. I would check local shops in the area and just ask them if they could do it. It is really simple to get this done so it should only take them 30 minutes to finish it. I would probably say they would charge you about $50 to do this.

Because this is just soldering of a few wires, you might even be able to take it to an electronics specialty store.

If your really uneasy about taking it somewhere, just take it to the dealership and ask them to solder everything up because they should be able to. Keep in mind you will be paying a more money at a dealership though as they will most likely charge 1 hour of labor at $120.

Remember, these are the 2 sensors and the crimps most likely look like that you will have taken apart and soldered together.

Let us know what you decide to do. Good luck!

 

[WickedMike]

I'm sure any reputable auto service can do the job. Not difficult and just electrical tape wires after repair. Dealer may say GM doesn't advise soldering but problem with mine has been resolved by doing so. Keep us posted.

 

[SolNut]

Where are you located?? There could be someone close that could help!

 

[RotaryPiston]

I'm sure any reputable auto service can do the job. Not difficult and just electrical tape wires after repair. Dealer may say GM doesn't advise soldering but problem with mine has been resolved by doing so. Keep us posted.

Correct

Where are you located?? There could be someone close that could help!

This is a good idea as well^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[Hydranis]

I live in Northern New Jersey.

When I had the GMPP done I had specifically asked them to solder the wires, but they refused and said that the crimping is fool proof and they are not allowed to solder.

 

[RotaryPiston]

I live in Northern New Jersey.

When I had the GMPP done I had specifically asked them to solder the wires, but they refused and said that the crimping is fool proof and they are not allowed to solder.

Well now you know you cannot take it to the dealer. So take it to one of the suggestions we listed or contact another forum member in the area that may be able to help that you.

Maybe you will get lucky and someone will message you offering to help! :thumbs: