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I have a 2007 Solstice GXP. (one of the first ones in AZ) It has a little over 50K miles on it. Everything is stock on it except the antenna. A few months back I took it for a drive and although it started fine, once I went around the corner it would sputter whenever I gave it gas. I limped back home and parked it till I had a chance to spend more time on it. Long story short it sat for about 6 weeks. I started it up one more time, it would idle fine, I could rev the engine fine, but as soon as I tried driving it would sputter. After doing some research on the forum I discovered the little plastic offshoot on the main intake hose had been broken clean off. While waiting for the part to come in I realized my car wouldn't start anymore. I got the part, installed it, and also took this opportunity to replace the spark plugs for the first time. (Yeah, they had a lot of carbon buildup) Put everything back together and was devastated to find the engine still won’t start. It turns over, but doesn't even get close to starting. It’s almost as if the engine isn't getting any gas. I've reset the computer thinking maybe it had been overcompensating due to the broken intake, but still no luck. I also threw one code: P0336 “Crankshaft Position Sensor Performance”. Any ideas or suggestions?
 

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From the SM-

" A low fuel condition may set DTC P0336. If the fuel tank is allowed to run dry and numerous attempts are made to restart the engine after the initial stall, DTC P0336 may set. Any other condition that results in fuel starvation where unsuccessful start attempts are made may set DTC P0336."

Fuel delivery problems might mimic this.
 

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I'd go back to the last time you drove it. You said it started fine but then sputtered. Being an old school shadetree mechanic, I'd have to say the coil is going bad or your fuel filter is clogged. Not sure if these have coils but I'd check and see if the plugs are firing first. if so and all 4 are getting good spark, then I'm move over to the fuel system and t-shoot that. I'd say pour some gas down it's throat and see if it fires. if anything you'll narrow down the problem. Also, is your car a standard? If so, check the pin switch under the clutch. if that gets bent and doesn;t completely close the circuit, it won't start either. dont ask me how I know that one:)

Good Luck,
Charlie
 

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He says the engine turns over, so it's not the clutch switch. Also our cars are coil-on-plug, so 2 or 3 coils would have to be bad for it not to start.

However, it does sound like a fuel system problem. I seen a couple of reports of folks with low pressure fuel pump issues (it's inside the fuel tank, so difficult to R&R) plus some with bad high-pressure fuel pump issues too.
 

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There are 2 fuel pumps one is under the hood dead center up against the firewall that is the one you hear clicking, mine went bad and pretty much had the same sputtering issue in the middle of an Auto X run, that was one lousy time and worse drive home. New fuel pump problem fixed, I drove straight from the auto X to the dealer don't remember what the code was but 336 sound right.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK, so for the most part everyone agrees it's some form of fuel problem.
What's the next step in diagnosing?
I've read that there is no fuel filter, so that's not an issue.
How do I test the fuel pumps?
 

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Try testing your EVAP solenoid. If it has a small leak or has gone bad it will mimic what you are describing. Easy fix and is only about a $20 part. I bet you this IS the problem. You can buy me a beer if we ever meet in person. lol.
[/QUOTE]
 

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A bad EVAP shouldn't prevent starting in a cold start situation, because there shouldn't be enough fumes in the tank to get passed on to the intake and flood it out. Unless it is already 80 degrees where he lives.

Edit: Just checked the weather in Casa Grande, might be hot enough already to cause the EVAP problem. :lol:

Try starting the car early in the morning. Try starting the car with the gas cap open, to relieve fume pressure.
 

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Do you hear the in-tank electric pump cycle when you turn the ignition on without trying to start it? If not, check the fuel pump relay and fuse. If so, then you might have an issue with the high pressure fuel pump. There have been several cases of HPFP failure documented on this forum and others. When mine failed, though (and the same case with lil goat) the car still ran... just not very well above about 1/4 throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah, It's been pretty warm here. It was in the 90s last week. The tank is only about 1/4 full right now, not sure if that makes it better or worse?
I can hear the HPFP priming when I turn the ignition on, but I haven't tried checking the in tank (low pressure) pump yet.
 

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If the tank is low, that points away from Evap solenoid.
 

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Also if the needle only reads 1/4 it maybe empty. We know that our gas needle is not that accurate once it gets to the 1/4 mark.
 

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Typically the gas gauge resets to baseline on a key cycle and reads the actual fuel level as default. However, the GM fuel senders prior to 2009 are known to get fouled and start misreading actual level.

The sound you hear at ignition on is the low pressure fuel pump in the gas tank priming up. You can not hear the HPFP until the engine is running because it is a mechanical pump driven by a lobe on one of the camshafts.

I am leaning towards a FUBARed HPFP, or possibly a fuel rail problem.
 

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It would not hurt to add a couple of gallons of fuel. He will have to do it sooner than later.
 

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You might try spraying starting fluid near the air filter, if the car runs its a fuel problem.
You can learn a lot from a vacuum gauge too, there is a chart that tells you what the readings mean.
 

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Oh man, I don't think I would want to run starting fluid through the turbo, IC and piping, but that is just me.
 

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If the tank is low, that points away from Evap solenoid.
Why? Please explain your answer better. What difference does it make if the gas tank is full or low? Nothing to do with a leaking EVAP solenoid. He said it has been sitting for about 6 weeks before he tried starting it. Fits one of many symptoms he described and is talked about in the video. Wouldn't hurt to check. Only takes about 10min or less to do.
 

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Why? Please explain your answer better. What difference does it make if the gas tank is full or low? Nothing to do with a leaking EVAP solenoid. He said it has been sitting for about 6 weeks before he tried starting it. Fits one of many symptoms he described and is talked about in the video. Wouldn't hurt to check. Only takes about 10min or less to do.
The typical symptom from the Evap Solenoid failure is hard starting when the tank is full - due to vacuum buildup restricting fuel flow to the engine.

From the DDM check/fix thread: http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f101/evap-purge-solenoid-testing-replacement-video-69570/#post1110001
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Verified there is gas in the tank.
Checked the fuses on the fuel pump.
Checked the Evap Solenoid (it's fine)
Still wont start....
 

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Let's just make sure it's a fueling problem... If you CAREFULLY probe the schrader valve on the fuel line by the rail, do you get any fuel seeping out? If so, how much? Any difference after you cycle the ignition as compared to after it sits for awhile?



 
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