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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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Water/meth injection, 5th fuel injector, upgraded cams/valve springs, a move to another climate/elevation that has different gas opportunities, etc etc. some people get the “bug” and want to keep pushing for power.
I am not that guy but i totally get it for those that are.
 

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What I did was I came up with a plan for what I wanted to do and I did everything all at once. There are some things that I did later on but nothing that would effect the tune I used Dave at Performance Auto Werks.
 

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Hi Showtime, what's the hp and torque it's putting out? Have you had it run on a Dyno?
I purchased the Stage 3 tune and the HP Tuners scanning/modification hardware from RPM last year. Martin & Matthew worked with me remotely (while I was driving, using my PC as a slave and the HP Tuners scanner) to finalize the tune I was most happy with (we did about seven different tunes using the HP Tuners software); painless, even enjoyable, excercise in which I learned a lot; accordomg to RPM the final tune provides approx 405 BHP (350 WHP) and 370 lb. ft. torque; also better performance at higher gears and speeds. I had previously added a free flow cat, Mach shorty 3" exhaust, more powerful HFP, the Opel fuel injectors, the larger K04 turbo, a larger intercooler and a few more air pieces and handling items. Owning the HP Tuners software license and gear allows you to really see what is going on in multiple dimensions for different driving conditions; easy to switch between different tunes (including the GMPP which I had before) that you've already logged for your vehicle, although I have no reason to. However, even though I am an engineer, there are SO many variables to play with using HP Tuners that I am still not comfortable making any other major tune changes without advice from someone like RPM.
 

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My current tune and add-ons did not change anything internal. I feel that I am running about as much power as I can safely within the engines limits. I have no intention of going the next step and replacing the engine internals and/or going water/meth etc.
 

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There is no reason to use methanol injection. The block on the LNF is good to about 500bhp. The internals can get you to 475 bhp with staying reliable. You can get to the 475 bhp running pump gasoline and not get any knock. don't even have to upgrade the fuel system either. no reason to run any kind of ethanol.

Ethanol is a band-aide. gasoline has more power then ethanol does so it requires less fuel to accomplish the same task. That being said ethanol does have a higher octane rating then pump gasoline and that is what stop the detonation from occurring. All octane does is increase the flash point temperature of the fuel. Think about that for a second. it increases the temperature. So what causes engine knock? too high a temperature inside the cylinder. Fix the problem and there is no need to put a band-aide on it, as we all know band-aides do eventually fall off. Better engine cooling, larger CAC things like that are the correct solutions.

There is a point in which it becomes counter productive and it ends up costing more power then you can by trying to solve the high cylinder temperatures correctly. That is when the engine is making 1500+ bhp and even then you make the switch to racing fuels that are 108+ octane. The engine has to be in the 2000+bhp arena before running any form of ethanol would become a requirement if the engine is built properly.

Try to solve the underlying issue before using the band-aide solution
 

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I'm currently being tuned by Matt over at ZZP. They've been working on Ecotecs for a number of years. I already own HPTuners, so they email me a file, I do some data logging with the settings they want to see, email the log files back to them, and they usually have a new tune either by the end of that day or the next day. I've been really happy with it and the car is just amazing. It's crazy what just a tune on a stock car can do.
 

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Strangely enough, just stumbled across the new part number for the GM stage tune on CED

19369111 GM Performance Power Upgrade Package (crateenginedepot.com)
tem #:19369111
Reg. Price:$853.99
Our Price:$819.83
19369111 Replaces 19212670 Turbo Upgrade Kit. Fits - 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010 * see note Cobalt, Solstice, SKY, GPX, HHR and 2010 HHR SS & Cobalt SS Stage kit for the LNF 2.0 Turbocharged engine.
This stage kit increases vehicle horsepower

  • Solstice SKY HP & Torque ratings:
  • 290HP @ 5,200 RPM
  • MT 340 lb,-ft of torque @ 3,600 RPM
  • AT 325 lb,-ft of torque @ 3,600 RPM

My car dyno'd at 360 ft pounds at the wheels after Dave tweaked it a bit. Of course, then he pulled the drivetrain and kept it. LOL
 

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8/06/2022

Rob,

Thanks for the link on the GMPP tune package. I have the original 19212670 still in the GM box with all unopened parts and paperwork plus the harness adapter kit. Purchased on March 26 2009.
This should still be good if all they changed was the part number?

It is my intention to have this installed eventually. So it is good to know it is still in the system.

Richard Snipes
 

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Reading the CED information, it would appear this is still the part number but now the plug and play adapters are included in the kit.. A review was posted 5/22/2022 and by the same person on 6/20/2022. The 19369111HK list the combination of the plug and play adapters added to the 19212670 and the spliced in connectors removed from the kit. That appears to be the "update". I may call CED next week to confirm this.

19369111 GM STAGE KIT

Richard
 

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It is my intention to have this installed eventually. So it is good to know it is still in the system.

You better get it done sooner then later as GM is going to be shutting down the Tech2 SPS system. At this point in order for a dealership to be able to flash a module they have to call GM Techline support and have them push the calibration files to the Tech2.

The dealership has to add the calibration files to the vehicle so it will become available for the VIN number in SPS. I don't know how much longer all of that is still going to be operational.
 

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Not to hijack, but I get nervous about all these tunes and keeping the factory MAP sensors vs upgrading to 3 BAR. Any opinions on if it's worth just upgrading? I know some of the tuners say the stock ones are ok for their stage 1, but makes me nervous going 21 and 24 psi and staying on stock sensors.

I may ask this elsewhere, but what does the dash gauge reliably read up to in the Solstice?
 

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And to try and contribute, I talked to Trifecta and they said you can buy the Trifecta base tune (Advantage) for stock, and if you do some basic bolt ons later down the road (DP, exhausts, etc...not turbos or fuel) you can pay the difference between Advantage and Adv+ (basically $100) and they'll send you an upgraded map (and I think it's free from then on for any other bolt ons...except turbo/fuel as noted).
 

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8/06/2022

Rob,

Thanks for the link on the GMPP tune package. I have the original 19212670 still in the GM box with all unopened parts and paperwork plus the harness adapter kit. Purchased on March 26 2009.
This should still be good if all they changed was the part number?

It is my intention to have this installed eventually. So it is good to know it is still in the system.

Richard Snipes
it should still be good to go.
 

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look at it this way. The factory sensors are designed to read 2.5 bar absolute pressure which is 36.2594 PSI. boost pressure is relative to the barometric pressure. lets sat 21PSI boost pressure. at sea level barometric pressure is ~14.696PSI. add those 2 numbers together and you get the absolute pressure of 35.696PSI.

That being said the Bosch sensors do have a little bit of wiggle room. the 2.5 bar sensors are designed to output 4.65 volts @ 2.5 bar.

we can use this equation to find out what the actual maximum pressure the sensor is able to handle.

x_pressure = (((voltage - min_voltage) * max_pressure - min_pressure) / max_voltage - min_voltage) + min_pressure

where

min_voltage = minimum the sensor is able to output for a voltage . gotten from the sensor data sheet
max_voltage = voltage output from sensor at rated pressure (2.5 bar). gotten from the sensor data sheet
min_pressure = minimum rated pressure. gotten from the sensor data sheet
max_pressure = maximum rated pressure. gotten from the sensor data sheet
voltage = the voltage the sensor is going to output for x_pressure

Bosch has these numbers for the sensor.

0.40 volts @ 0.2 bar (2.90075 psi)
4.65 volts @ 2.5 bar (36.2594 psi)

so if we use 5.0 volts for "voltage" the result is ~37.75 PSI. That is the absolute upper limit of the sensor.

Lets see what 24PSI added to barometric is at sea level. 38.696PSI... That is above what the sensor is going to be able to report. While the sensor reading in and of itself is not used to calculate air fuel ratios. It is used to check the consistency of the data reported by the mass air flow sensor. There is the potential for the ECM to register an error and put the vehicle into limp mode because of it. Chances are this is not going to happen but I can tell you that running the sensor above it's rated output can and will cause the sensor to prematurely fail. Would you constantly hit the rev limiter on your vehicle?? Probably not. Why not? Because it's not good for the engine. If you revved the engine to 6987 RPMs (487RPMs above the red line) how many times of doing that before something not so good happens? Well 487 RPMs is 7.5% higher which is what the sensor would be if it is being pushed to the 5.0 volt output. 7.5% higher then it's rated maximum. Think of the pressure rating as the rev limiter, there is a reason why it is there and pushing past it might not be a fantastic idea.

You also have to think about this.

Why would GM put a 2.5 bar sensor in a vehicle that when stock it produced 14PSI of boost at sea level (28.696 PSI absolute) which is 80% of what the sensor is capable of reading? Then you have GM putting in a 3.0 bar sensor for the GMPP tune which increases boost to 19ish PSI at sea level (33.696 PSI absolute) which is 78% of what that sensor is capable of reading. GM feels the need to not exceed 80% of what the sensor is rated for. I wonder why....... Ahhhh I know why. that's because the sensor may not be fed 5.0 volts. if it is fed say 4.8 volts the whole thing changes and you start loosing resolution and range and the rated maximum pressure lowers. so on the 2.5 bar sensor (36.2594 PSI) there would be a loss of 4% if the sensor is fed 4.8 volts instead of 5 volts. That puts the rated maximum at 2.4bar (34.809024 PSI). A 0.2 volt deviation is an acceptable deviation according to SAE. It is the allowed deviation for the accelerator position sensor and also the throttle position sensor and is a fantastic number to use in this scenario because it is an allowed change.

Again the sensor failing or not reading correctly is NOT going to destroy your engine. But it can make your drive a whole lot less enjoyable when you can only boost to 5 psi. And we all know that's going to happen. it's when that Honda pulls up next to you and wants to run.

Man ooo man not gonna live down losing to a Honda. RFLMAO.

$140 for the MAP and the TMAP sensors with the correct o-rings and also the adapters so no cutting of wires needs to be done. simple to install.

 
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