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Discussion Starter #1
sure I have the right part numbers.

I own a 07 GXP with stock suspension, and it's my understanding that I have the FE3 suspension, as do all stock GXPs.
I plan to order the following:

  • GM part# 25855624 or 25919110 (I believe it's the same bar with different part number)
  • Energy Suspension 9.5162R 1-1/16" SWAY BAR BUSHING SET
  • Backbone
  • Probeam

I plan to only upgrade the rear sway bar because while the rear wall difference in thickness between the FE3 and ZOK bars is significant, the front FE3 bar and front ZOK bars are very close in size so it doesn't seem there would be much improvement.

I was considering ordering the sway bar package from DDM, but they had a statement on the sway bar page that threw me off: " Please note: Some 2.0L's came from the factory with the FE3 suspension package, please double check your suspension before ordering."
Just when I thought I had a solid understanding of the suspension packages, there's this fly in the ointment. I thought all 2.0s (GXPs) came with the FE3 package?? What is DDM talking about here?

Oh, and then I saw that Werks has their own swaybar package that claims to be 10% stiffer than the GXP ZOK package? Anyone have any experience with the Werks sway bars?

I briefly considered ZOK or GMPP springs as well, but with the roads around here, and even my driveway, I can't afford to give up much ground clearance. 1/2 inch lower would be the max. So, I'll likely keep the stock springs. Will the Probeam affect ground clearance?
 

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Hello,

I've got the FE3 front bar, FE3 Z0K rear bar, and GXP-rate springs on my '06 (the springs are the "Street Edition" springs which was a package available in '09, which are FE3 spring rate but the right length for an NA car to maintain stock ride height). I've also got all of the DDMWorks braces (Probeam, Backbone, Venom brace). It's a good combination. The car is pretty flat in corners.
 

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Are the front and rear sway bars matched? I put Z0K on both front and rear. Obviously the car won't explode by only replacing the rear and not the front, but why?

If I could do it again then I would have gotten Performance Autowerks front and rear bars. I saw them at NASSAM 2018 and they are BEASTLY. As a disclaimer I'll admit that I don't know much about suspension, but if the Z0K bars are thicker than the factory bars and if the PAW bars are thicker than the Z0K bars, then.....thicker is better - right?!? (Thats what she.....no I won't finish that one).

Unrelated to your question, but I thought that it was interesting that:
NA Z0K sway bars = GXP factory bars
 

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Are the front and rear sway bars matched? I put Z0K on both front and rear. Obviously the car won't explode by only replacing the rear and not the front, but why?

If I could do it again then I would have gotten Performance Autowerks front and rear bars. I saw them at NASSAM 2018 and they are BEASTLY. As a disclaimer I'll admit that I don't know much about suspension, but if the Z0K bars are thicker than the factory bars and if the PAW bars are thicker than the Z0K bars, then.....thicker is better - right?!? (Thats what she.....no I won't finish that one).

Unrelated to your question, but I thought that it was interesting that:
NA Z0K sway bars = GXP factory bars
IIRC the outer diameter is more of a correlation to stiffness in handling than the wall thickness. Thus the hot set up is to get a "hollow" larger front bar, thus stiffer, but a weight savings over a solid bar.
 

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Are the front and rear sway bars matched? I put Z0K on both front and rear. Obviously the car won't explode by only replacing the rear and not the front, but why?
They can be mixed to match your desired setup. It depends on what you want to do with the car and how the rest of the car is set up. Changing the bar sizes by different amounts (or only changing one bar) affects the balance of the car.
 

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Take a look at this:


All the variations from a GM insider. Part numbers may have changed

The guys that do solo events often leave the stock front bar on as they prefer it for the tight slower speed corners. For fast road work, I'd recommend that you go to the ZOK bars (for the LNF, not LE5) on both ends. It certainly worked out well for me.
 

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The Z0K optional pieces were originally specified as part of an overall set of mods specifically for SCCA road racing in the SSB class for the NA Solstice and a different set of mods for the T2 class for the GXP. The 2006 SSB Z0K ended up becoming the FE3 suspension which was stock on the 2007 GXP Solstice. The T2 Z0K was stiffer yet for the GXP. See the table in the message reference by wspohn just before this message.

:thumbs:

.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well for now, I just ordered the Probeam and Backbone. I'll install and drive around a while to get the feel of it and to determine if the improvements are enough. Stock, the rear is somewhat unnerving at highway speeds with any sort quick maneuvering (dips/ bumps, avoiding obstacles in the road) which unfortunately occurs more often than you'd expect, around here anyway. If the DDM pieces solve this issue, I'll probably stop there, as I have no interest in any sort of racing.
 

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If your rear feels unnerving it's more likely your shocks than your sway bars. These are 10+ year old cars and the rear shocks are prone to leaks. The FE3 sway bars are plenty big enough for street use. Our current track setup for the NA is a stock NA rear bar with a probeam, ZOK front bar and BC coil overs. It works great at far above highway speeds.
 

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The frame stiffeners will reduce or eliminate a sort of unsettling transitory feel in mid cornering, but they won't add significant roll stiffness. I expect that you'll want the bars next. Better get the factory bars while they are still available. The aftermarket versions often tend to be overkill (i.e. overly stiff).

And do give you car a good bounce and see how your shocks are holding up. I've been pretty happy with the BC Racing units I replaced my stock shocks with.
 

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Well for now, I just ordered the Probeam and Backbone. I'll install and drive around a while to get the feel of it and to determine if the improvements are enough. Stock, the rear is somewhat unnerving at highway speeds with any sort quick maneuvering (dips/ bumps, avoiding obstacles in the road) which unfortunately occurs more often than you'd expect, around here anyway. If the DDM pieces solve this issue, I'll probably stop there, as I have no interest in any sort of racing.
You should not need to modify anything to maintain stability on the highway, no matter how many evasive maneuvers you have to do.

Have you had the alignment checked? The rear suspension is sensitive to toe and to caster problems, and your description sounds similar to my experience when the caster was wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You should not need to modify anything to maintain stability on the highway, no matter how many evasive maneuvers you have to do.

Have you had the alignment checked? The rear suspension is sensitive to toe and to caster problems, and your description sounds similar to my experience when the caster was wrong.
I haven't. But it is on the ever growing to-do list.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If your rear feels unnerving it's more likely your shocks than your sway bars. These are 10+ year old cars and the rear shocks are prone to leaks. The FE3 sway bars are plenty big enough for street use. Our current track setup for the NA is a stock NA rear bar with a probeam, ZOK front bar and BC coil overs. It works great at far above highway speeds.
The frame stiffeners will reduce or eliminate a sort of unsettling transitory feel in mid cornering, but they won't add significant roll stiffness. I expect that you'll want the bars next. Better get the factory bars while they are still available. The aftermarket versions often tend to be overkill (i.e. overly stiff).

And do give you car a good bounce and see how your shocks are holding up. I've been pretty happy with the BC Racing units I replaced my stock shocks with.
With <40k, it hadn't occurred to me to inspect the shocks, but I'll definitely inspect for leaks and do the bounce test.
 

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I have the Werks sway bars on mine and am very pleased with them . For the record I have an NA with an upgraded suspension package springs ,shocks ,brace kit ,and of course the swaybars . What I like about them is that they are adjustable got the bushing kit and powdercoating all for a great price . I don't track my car but I drive a lot of twisty country roads near my house and the difference is noticeable the car handles like a go cart I would defiantly recommend them .
 

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My '07 has 105k on the original shocks and has no handling issues. Shocks are there for high-rate movement control (bumps) and not for low-rate movement (cornering), although they do have some affect on it. You will feel a shock problem as vertical oscillation of the car after a bump long before instability in lateral moves.
 
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