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Have you had a waterpump fail on your Solstice? (please also chose NA or GXP as well)

  • No.....don't jinx me!! (I'm under 50,000miles)

    Votes: 45 39.1%
  • No....I'm on borrowed time (I have over 50,000 miles)

    Votes: 20 17.4%
  • Yes (My car had less then 60,000 miles when it happend)

    Votes: 37 32.2%
  • Yes...(My car had between 60,000 and 100,000 miles)

    Votes: 10 8.7%
  • Yes....(My car had over 100,000 when the waterpump failed)

    Votes: 2 1.7%
  • NA - Normally Aspirated

    Votes: 28 24.3%
  • GXP - turbo

    Votes: 47 40.9%
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Looking at the number of people that responded to this poll, I would say the real rarity is people that gave enough of a damn to click a box. It is a shame that we have such an excellent opportunity to collect real data and people couldn't be bothered.
 

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I've been looking at the Solstice and see a lot about water pumps. I believe I read it costs $1000 to replace one. Why so expensive?
 

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Labor, mostly. The pump is driven by the timing chain and a fair amount of disassembly has to be done to get it out.
 

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I've been looking at the Solstice and see a lot about water pumps. I believe I read it costs $1000 to replace one. Why so expensive?
I don't think it's that expensive on the 2.4....not as much labor.....and they don't fail as often either.
I think Heat from the turbo shortens the life of the water pump.
 

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adding to the thread as I am currently going thru this.

my water pump if fine as I only have 35,000 miles; but the gaskets have started leaking so that I have to refill the coolant about once a weak and considering where it is and how it's attached; it's apparently the norm to replace the whole thing rather than just the gaskets by the time you pull the pump to get to the gaskets.

i'm being quoted $1200.
 

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adding to the thread as I am currently going thru this.

my water pump if fine as I only have 35,000 miles; but the gaskets have started leaking so that I have to refill the coolant about once a weak and considering where it is and how it's attached; it's apparently the norm to replace the whole thing rather than just the gaskets by the time you pull the pump to get to the gaskets.

i'm being quoted $1200.
The water pump itself is not that expensive. You have to remove it anyway so I would advise just replacing the pump. New pumps come with new gaskets.
 

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yes it may not be the gaskets....I dont even think it has gaskets...just seals.I tink you have a bad pumper. Im at almost 58000 miles no leeks,I did add some prestone wp lube last year.
 

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My water pump gaskets just started failing. Low coolant light went off, stopped by AutoZone, bought coolant, refilled to appropriate level; took the car for a drive the next day & inspected the level (had lowered), noticed the seals around the water pump were leaking...the aroma of coolant filling up the garage. totally sucks...under 40,000 miles.
 

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My water pump gaskets just started failing. Low coolant light went off, stopped by AutoZone, bought coolant, refilled to appropriate level; took the car for a drive the next day & inspected the level (had lowered), noticed the seals around the water pump were leaking...the aroma of coolant filling up the garage. totally sucks...under 40,000 miles.
never heard of the gaskets failing. Problem is that in order to replace the gaskets, you have to remove the pump. If you have to do that, you may as well replace the pump with those miles on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
My water pump gaskets just started failing. Low coolant light went off, stopped by AutoZone, bought coolant, refilled to appropriate level; took the car for a drive the next day & inspected the level (had lowered), noticed the seals around the water pump were leaking...the aroma of coolant filling up the garage. totally sucks...under 40,000 miles.
There are "press" points, where it appears that several different pieces of aluminum have been pressed together to form our WP. What theoretically happens is that the coolant develops little microscopic balls as it ages. These balls deposit themselves in crevices and then when the coolant cools down, they expand, creating a bigger crevice. That allows other little balls into the crevice....this cycle happens many times over until you develop a leak. That's also why the leak "can" go away for a bit. The balls "melt" and leak out until new ones get deposited, and the process starts all over until you have a catastrophic failure like a member here had happen yesterday. This was the thoughts of some of the members here early on in another post of "what technically causes a waterpump to fail".
 
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There are "press" points, where it appears that several different pieces of aluminum have been pressed together to form our WP. What theoretically happens is that the coolant develops little microscopic balls as it ages. These balls deposit themselves in crevices and then when the coolant cools down, they expand, creating a bigger crevice. That allows other little balls into the crevice....this cycle happens many times over until you develop a leak. That's also why the leak "can" go away for a bit. The balls "melt" and leak out until new ones get deposited, and the process starts all over until you have a catastrophic failure like a member here had happen yesterday. This was the thoughts of some of the members here early on in another post of "what technically causes a waterpump to fail".
Buy a new water pump and you get all the necessary O rings, gaskets, etc. needed for installation, including the large O rings for the pump to thermostat housing and a new thermostat housing seal, if you choose not to replace the thermostat.
 

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There are "press" points, where it appears that several different pieces of aluminum have been pressed together to form our WP. What theoretically happens is that the coolant develops little microscopic balls as it ages. These balls deposit themselves in crevices and then when the coolant cools down, they expand, creating a bigger crevice. That allows other little balls into the crevice....this cycle happens many times over until you develop a leak. That's also why the leak "can" go away for a bit. The balls "melt" and leak out until new ones get deposited, and the process starts all over until you have a catastrophic failure like a member here had happen yesterday. This was the thoughts of some of the members here early on in another post of "what technically causes a waterpump to fail".
Hmmmmm, this might explain why when I took my 2.4 for a drive this afternoon, I noticed no leaks! I drove it till coolant was at temp, and gave it the Ferrari tune up (redline @ full throttle)...& noticed absolutely no aroma or coolant seepage at all. I was left scratching my head, wondering how a leak like that could have somehow magically fixed itself... So, microscopic balls that end up within the water pumps crevices...? Interesting!
 

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never heard of the gaskets failing. Problem is that in order to replace the gaskets, you have to remove the pump. If you have to do that, you may as well replace the pump with those miles on it.
First time for everything. Reason I know it isn't the water pump itself is because when I give it throttle, I can see the coolant rushing into the overfill reservoir while the hood is up & am looking directly at it. Sucks what DexCool & heat do to the water pump gaskets. :confused:
 

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First time for everything. Reason I know it isn't the water pump itself is because when I give it throttle, I can see the coolant rushing into the overfill reservoir while the hood is up & am looking directly at it. Sucks what DexCool & heat do to the water pump gaskets. :confused:
If you decide to go the DIY route, shop around. acdelco pumps can run anywhere from $50 to $150. a complete gasket kit from fel-pro is $10. You will need a tool to hold the timing gear in place, $35. Unless you are fixated on acdelco, there are many other pumps out there such as gates or bosch, which are just as good and around $40 (and truth be known, probably made by the same factory). You also may need intake manifold gaskets, $20. On a 2.4 engine the changeout is fairly easy and cost for everything less than $150.
 

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If you decide to go the DIY route, shop around. acdelco pumps can run anywhere from $50 to $150. a complete gasket kit from fel-pro is $10. You will need a tool to hold the timing gear in place, $35. Unless you are fixated on acdelco, there are many other pumps out there such as gates or bosch, which are just as good and around $40 (and truth be known, probably made by the same factory). You also may need intake manifold gaskets, $20. On a 2.4 engine the changeout is fairly easy and cost for everything less than $150.
I wish there was a step by step instruction PDA or something in the way of detailed instructions on how to change out our water pumps using all the appropriate tools (full circle water pump holder, etc...), and ways to absolutely prevent the dreaded chain-tension whine afterwards. The possibility of not doing something correctly during the changing of the water pump & getting the whine is what's keeping me from buying all the necessary parts to change this out myself. I'd hate to create more work for myself, despite loving to wrench on my cars myself. :cautious::(:cautious::(
 

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I wish there was a step by step instruction PDA or something in the way of detailed instructions on how to change out our water pumps using all the appropriate tools (full circle water pump holder, etc...), and ways to absolutely prevent the dreaded chain-tension whine afterwards. The possibility of not doing something correctly during the changing of the water pump & getting the whine is what's keeping me from buying all the necessary parts to change this out myself. I'd hate to create more work for myself, despite loving to wrench on my cars myself. :cautious::(:cautious::(
I have seen a complete writeup some where. Maybe someone else can jump in here with more info. You might also try the search feature at the top of the page. Except for the full circle tool, there is really no way to do it wrong. The parts will only go one way, but I truly understand your cautiousness.
 

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I have seen a complete writeup some where. Maybe someone else can jump in here with more info. You might also try the search feature at the top of the page. Except for the full circle tool, there is really no way to do it wrong. The parts will only go one way, but I truly understand your cautiousness.
Go to ddmworks.com. complete instructions with pictures on how to replace water pump.
 
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