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so about a week ago my heater/AC blower stopped working and of course it was on a day it was about 20 degrees out i was like WTF over. well i went and got a used blower motor thinking it would be that as with this issues ive had with other cars it was the blower. a new one cost like $160 so i got a used one for 70. i took the glove box off and the panel under the passenger side dash and pulled out the blower and plugged on the new one and nothing. i then jumped the old one on a battery and it worked like a charm so i checked the resistor all looked fine so i checked the connection and well after 15 min of fighting with it to get it apart i discovered why. the connections melted. so basically 1 blower harness $49 (only from gm) and 1 resistor from GM for $38 and she runs like new. here are the pics of it.








 

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You usually get this from a bad or loose connection. Loose connections with high current get hot. Good find!
 

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I'm running into the same issue only my car is no longer under warranty and would like to do it myself if its not hard. I have a dealer quoting me $375 to replace the Resistor and Connectors/Harness.

I also have another person telling me since the resistor is shot that it would be a good idea to replace the blower motor as well because that indicates the blower motor is over heating. Thoughts?

Also you would by chance have the part numbers for the connectors/harness and the resistor would you?

Thanks in advance...
 

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I'm running into the same issue only my car is no longer under warranty and would like to do it myself if its not hard. I have a dealer quoting me $375 to replace the Resistor and Connectors/Harness.

I also have another person telling me since the resistor is shot that it would be a good idea to replace the blower motor as well because that indicates the blower motor is over heating. Thoughts?

Also you would by chance have the part numbers for the connectors/harness and the resistor would you?

Thanks in advance...
You only need to replace the resistor (presumably) because the connector is burnt, not the resistor itself. So no need to replace the motor.

Don't know the resistor part# but the harness number is visible in the photo above... 25797383
 

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You only need to replace the resistor (presumably) because the connector is burnt, not the resistor itself. So no need to replace the motor.

Don't know the resistor part# but the harness number is visible in the photo above... 25797383
Thanks for the response...appears I cannot find the part number: 25797383 anywhere. I'm trying to wheel and deal with my current dealer and see if they can knock the price down. I'm currently wondering if I can do this myself if I can find the parts....how hard would it be...although I don't even know where the blower motor is located. I'm assuming under the dash on the passenger side.
 

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Thanks for the response...appears I cannot find the part number: 25797383 anywhere. I'm trying to wheel and deal with my current dealer and see if they can knock the price down. I'm currently wondering if I can do this myself if I can find the parts....how hard would it be...although I don't even know where the blower motor is located. I'm assuming under the dash on the passenger side.
It's an easy job, however it is in a bit of a cramped location. Yes, it is at the top of the passengar footwell and there is a small cover that needs to be removed.

The hardest part for me was to get the connect apart from the resistor as it had melted and fused together with the resistor body.

I did not replace the harness, just the connector as I found the same connector from a junk bin at a GM dealer. I had cut the connector off anyway because I could not get the connector and resistor apart until I had them out of the car.

The connector that I found had long leads still attached which allowed me to splice it back to the cut off leads giving me a longer harness so there shold be no repeat of the problem (I don't know if you bought a new harnes from the dealer if it has been made longer to prevent the original problem).
 

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They don't always melt down. Wife got in the car to go to work, no A/C. Pulled the cover, pulled the resister, upplugged cleaned contacts, plug back in and off to work she went with A/C.
 

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Good information. Thanks for letting the forum know about this. Just another mass-production-based, one-will-slip-through type of problem....I hope.
 

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Good information. Thanks for letting the forum know about this. Just another mass-production-based, one-will-slip-through type of problem....I hope.
I hope, but I just read this again and I assume my hunt is still not over, I ordered the harness but missed the wording that the resistor was a separate part, well back to the web.

EDITED TO ADD Resistor Information - gmparteast has the resistor. They do not give the total part number, but what they do give is **397098 RESISTOR BLO MOT

They still show the old part number for the harness, but they do have it, if you use the new number above.
 

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Just a comment. I'm a civil engineer, not electrical, so I was wondering if that is a "heat fuse" soldered on the left end of what I take to be the resistor...that green thing? Did it blow, or was it the melting of the connection itself that stopped the motor?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
it melted the connector due to a poor connection
 

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Replaced mine yesterday - works fine now. Same connector burn although not as bad as the pictures. Pretty easy fix - no reason to have the dealer do this unless you just cannot turn a screwdriver or use a wrench. I am not mechanic, it took about 30-45 minutes. Bought resistor and harness. My connector was not repairable.

And yes the "green thing" is the resistor.
 

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So, JBD, could you cut off the melted connector on the harness and solder those wires directly to the resistor connector tabs? Would you be able to replace it with the wires attached? Might be an alternative to buying new parts for those with solder skills.
 

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No, I wouldn't you are going to end up replacing it again anyway. The resistor is held into the blower motor cover with two screws, on the connector end. If you hard wired it would be a pain. The wiring harness is only about 30 bucks, to me it wasn't worth it. Technically you could do that but there isn't much wire there if you had to do it twice.
 

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I had the same problem on mine twice. I replaced the resistor and it burnt again. Just get it from advanced, was like 28 for an Acdelco OEM part. Return it before the year warranty is up, then maybe after they lose enough money from all those returned resistors they may get some competent engineers to address the problem. P.S. most mechanics now, more often than not are retards. The older mechanics are the ones that know how to fix them better. Learn about your vehicle and try to do as much as you can by yourself or do what most common folk do and trade it in.
 

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I just have to say thank you to all ya'll fella's. Mine went out
Saturday and upon reading ya'lls post I was able to fix it myself. Yes I am my daddy's daughter. You guy's rock, thanks again.
 

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Wow! What great info!

Yep same issue with the wire burnout on that exact end!I used a hot knife and cut plastic housing away from that end of connector and sepperated burned terminal. I then attached a new crimp on terminal and added nolox( electrical anti-corrosion compound) to the connection and Wah-La it works! I really appreciate all of your input. It made the locating and fixing this issue easy! It is 107 outside and I need my a/c cranked up!
Thanks again for all your help and input!:thumbs:
 

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Yep same issue with the wire burnout on that exact end!I used a hot knife and cut plastic housing away from that end of connector and sepperated burned terminal. I then attached a new crimp on terminal and added nolox( electrical anti-corrosion compound) to the connection and Wah-La it works! I really appreciate all of your input. It made the locating and fixing this issue easy! It is 107 outside and I need my a/c cranked up!
Thanks again for all your help and input!:thumbs:
I wish you had pics to show how this was done. My blower has been out for a while now. I'm just looking for a perminant fix.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using AutoGuide.com App
 
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