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This is exactly my problem. Wiggled the connection and got it to work again briefly, but I'm about to sit down and fix it. Thanks!
 

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This was a good little saturday evening project. If you're handy, it could be done in an hour.

Remove the harness from the car. Just leave the white resistor piece connected as it may be a little melted on, so you're not struggling with it upside down in the floorboard. You'll need to remove the two screws holding it in place though. There are three more plugs that were not hard to unclip. The one furthest up is easiest to access by dropping the glove box and approaching from there.

Once out, disconnect the last plug from the resistor piece and cut the offending pin plastic with a hot knife (I used a really crappy $10 one from harbor freight).



Put a new connector on it. I should have used a thinner one as I had to cut a little plastic out of the inside of the white plug to accommodate.


A little heat shrink tubing


plugged them both in and wrapped them in electrical tape to hold it securely.



Worked like a charm! Thank goodness- it's been hot and rainy here this week.

If it stopped working again I'd probably just order the $35 harness, but this time around I was too impatient to wait for one to ship.
 

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Mine melted because the ECU was put into failsafe mode and disabled the AC when it was throwing a P0119 code for intermittent coolant sensor. As a result of the ECU pulling the AC, it "popped" the resistor much in the same way that everyone else's has.

Thanks for the failsafe GM! But I want my AC on whether my engine's going nuclear or not! I know if its overheating, even though your Chinese sensors obviously don't!

I guess we can all chalk this up as another common issues on our cars. :rolleyes:
 

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Okay. Stopped working. Started working. Replaced the relay (position 30 in the fuse panel under passenger's floorboard.) Checked fuses related to the blower/HVAC - no problem (pulled and metered.) Ran the calibration routine on the buttons - no joy. Pulled plugs on the harness and saw nothing melted. Cleaned contacts nonetheless and the HVAC automatically went into calibration mode (buttons flashing for several seconds) and still no blower motor.

This morning we take the car out and the blower works. Shopping finished and leaving to go get lunch - blower doesn't work. After lunch, blower works.

What da .... heck?

I'm inclined to think it may be "chip" related and maybe the chip ain't gettin' the ground it needs?
 

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When I say "stopped working" it's only the blower. When driving there is air being forced through the ducts - warm/cold depending upon the temp setting on the dial.
 

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I'm inclined to think it may be "chip" related and maybe the chip ain't gettin' the ground it needs?
Not sure what 'chip' you mean. The blower is completely "old skool". There's just a big-assed heavy duty multi-way switch attached to the middle knob of the A/C control dials. That just routes the current to one of the resistors in that pack shown in the photos a coupla posts above ^^. The resistor that's thusly 'chosen' limits the current into the motor and hence controls the blower speed.

I would look it the same resistor pack and connector that this whole thread is about. Maybe it looks OK from the outside but the contacts are burnt?
 

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Yeah, what you're describing sounds exactly how our problems started as well!
 

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Not sure what 'chip' you mean. The blower is completely "old skool". There's just a big-assed heavy duty multi-way switch attached to the middle knob of the A/C control dials. That just routes the current to one of the resistors in that pack shown in the photos a coupla posts above ^^. The resistor that's thusly 'chosen' limits the current into the motor and hence controls the blower speed.

I would look it the same resistor pack and connector that this whole thread is about. Maybe it looks OK from the outside but the contacts are burnt?
Soup - thanks for confirming that. I didn't imagine there would be a microprocessor involved but you find them everywhere anymore. I figured it would be just a 5 position switch as you described. I'll get a fire going in the workshop this afternoon and pop some things apart and put a meter to 'em. I didn't pull the resistor pack out. I guess I'll just hope it ISN'T working today (lol) and see where the current is and isn't present to narrow it down. I'm thinking juice is making it to the rotary switch and passed on to the resistor pack as you imply.

Rob - thanks for the tip, but wasn't the HVAC from the Saturn Vue? (Or maybe it was used in both?) Either way, it's a great idea for an additional resource! :thumbs:
 

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Had juice at the connector on the resistor pack. All connections looked good - nothing burnt. Cleaned them a bit anyway but still no luck. Pulled blower and put 12v to it - spins right up.

Ordered harness and resistor from gmpartsdirect - $46 (plus $18 s&h? lol!) Hope this gets it.
 

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Ordered Monday evening. Thursday morning gmpartsdirect still shows my order as "in process". Anybody have experience buying from this site? Is a 3 or more day delay in shipping typical?
 

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Ordered Monday evening. Thursday morning gmpartsdirect still shows my order as "in process". Anybody have experience buying from this site? Is a 3 or more day delay in shipping typical?
NO it is not, Yes I have bought from them many times, what it does mean is they do not have part in stock and they are probably trying to locate the part for you...soon if they are unsuccessful they will email you and advise you that the part is currently NOT in stock and if you want to keep the order open. The nice thing about this outfit is, they don't bill ya until they ship the part.. OR you can cancel the order and not be charged for anything..
 

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Thanks MB. Through the power of solsticeforum.com they apparently picked up on the "vibes". Received e-mail tonight that the order shipped. I thought it odd because both items showed as "in stock", but I deal with inventory inaccuracies at work also, so I understand how that goes.

Hopefully this will get me blowing hot air again soon. ; )
 

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Harness and resistor pack isntalled. No joy. My head keeps coming back to a ground wire somewhere. I don't know what else could cause it to work intermittently.

I appeal once again to the brain trust of solsticeforum.com - any ideas?
 

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Harness and resistor pack isntalled. No joy. My head keeps coming back to a ground wire somewhere. I don't know what else could cause it to work intermittently.

I appeal once again to the brain trust of solsticeforum.com - any ideas?
OK, so looking at the wiring diagram, the ground is common for all elements of the Heating/Cooling control (Ground point G305, behind the passenger seat). So if the ground itself was faulty you'd see issues with lights etc, on the controller.

If ONLY the fan stops when you have the issue, then it would point to the fan switch itself, or, hopefully, just the connector at the back of the controller could be loose. In either case, you're gonna have to take off the 'boomerang' dash to get at it.

Here's a bunch of photos of inside the dash (see posts 2 & 3 for the A/C controller and its innards): http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f61/dove-into-dashboard-pics-info-inside-8005/

Then this is how to get into the dash to get at the controller... http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f61/how-aftermarket-headunit-replacement-15707/

Good luck!
 

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Okay, to summarize.

1. Blower has worked on and off erratically. Lately more off than on.
2. Checked all fuses - good. Replaced HVAC relay "just because".
3. Checked connection at resistor pack and looked good - not melted like the OP in this thread, not even dirty. Cleaned and reconnected. No go.
5. Pulled blower motor, hooked it to 12vdc on the bench and ran great.
5. Blower worked twice and quit working twice in the car since that was done.
6. Replaced resistor pack and wiring harness. No go.
7. Pulled the boomerang off and checked all connections. Nothing burnt, nothing even dirty. Plugged everything back in and HVAC went into recalibration mode itself. Still no blower.
8. Pulled the 3 dial control "unit" from the dash. Checked the rotary fan switch with an ohmeter. Tested good.
9. Checked the plug that goes to the rotary switch - the "first" pin to ground (probe onto the console) shows 11.8 vdc.

My logic follows thusly:

12 vdc to the rotary switch means the juice is getting there.

The rotary switch measures the same impedance on all 4 positions so I'm inclined to believe it's not the switch. I'm inclined to believe it's not microprocessor or circuit board related as this is just 12vdc to a rotary switch that passes it to the resistor pack that controls the voltage passed along to the blower motor. The juice "should" be getting there.

The blower motor works fine when jumped. The resistor pack and under-dash harness have been replaced. If there is 12vdc+ going to the rotary switch, the rotary switch is sending 12vdc+ along to the resistor pack (which I will need to re-establish now that the harness has been replaced) I have to have a lost connection at the resistor pack, between the resistor pack and the blower motor, or a lost ground, don't I?

The last dealer I worked with did fine by me on the catalytic convertor - not his fault the part wasn't available. His lack of experience on the car did show, however, when I picked it up and he told me they believe I have a transmission mount that needed to be replaced. Said they could hear a "thunk" during low speed/rpm shifts. Didn't give me a "warm fuzzy" regarding future visits.
 

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Hmmmm... really puzzling! I would suggest the possibility of a faulty brush contact on the motor (presuming it has brushes) like you sometimes get on starter motors. Then, depending on where the motor stoped last time, results in start/no-start next time. A stretch though, maybe.

How about working backwards from symptoms... does everything else work fine (on the A/C controller) when the fan is stopped? What (if you know) gets the blower working again. Can you track any commonalities in working or not working?


UPDATE: Ahhhh, I just noticed something else. Power to the motor is supplied via the HVAC relay (#30 in the BCM). That relay is energised by some logic which (apparently) depends on the coolant level sensor. Are you sure your coolant level is good (or that sensor, or its wiring, is not suspect)? Also check that HVAC relay, make sure it's not loose.
 
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