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Okay - let's see if this posts the way I hope it does.

Solstice BCM removal / replacement.


Editorial - there have been multiple complaints that the passenger seat air bag sensor in these vehicles have been a maintenance issue. I have no concrete evidence that "point loading" or putting excessive pressure in the center of the passenger seat is the cause of these failures. I express this caution based upon reports from owners that have stated the failures have occurred immediately after driving over railroad tracks or rough roads with a passenger present. I also express this caution after my limited experience with the vehicle finding me wanting to place a knee or body part directly into the center of the passenger seat while cleaning or servicing the vehicle. As the Body Control Module is located under the dash beneath the floor board, servicing it will likely result in elbows or other body parts being placed in the passenger seat. I recommend diligence in your methods or to place a piece of plywood or other stiff support on the passenger seat before proceeding.

1. Disconnect battery.
2. Remove the panel beneath the glove box. There are two "push pins" on each end that pull straight down.
3. Pull the carpet from the top (near the dash) toward the seat. (Velcro attachment.)
4. Pull the plastic panel from the top (near the dash) toward the seat. (Velcro attachment.)
5. The body control module has 3 cable connectors on the front as well as the fuses and relays. Two of the cables have a blue "wire dress" on them with gray latching mechanisms on them. Place a flat screwdriver blade under the gray latches and pull toward you to unlatch them and then rotate away from the end where the wires exit the plug.



6. A 7mm socket is required to remove the main connector (black) in the lower/center of the BCM. This bolt will actually extract the connector from the BCM so it will start easily, then require minor effort to continue to pull the connector from it's contacts. (see above image.)
7. Remove the 3 mounting screws from the top, right, and bottom of the BCM with the 7mm socket. (see above image.)
8. Remove the main supply connector from the back of the BCM with a 7mm socket. (Image below).
9. Remove the "wire dress" (cover) from the back of the connector by prying the two latches per side with a flat blade screwdriver. (Image below).



Commentary: In my case, I had a burnt terminal that fed power to relay 30 on the BCM which feeds power through to the HVAC blower.



If you need to replace a terminal continue on with the following steps.

10. Pull the red terminal position assurance clips (TPA) from the top and bottom of the connector shell with a flat blade screwdriver as per image below.



11. The terminals can be released from the connector shell with a special tool or simply with a pick. The latch fingers that hold the terminals in place must be deflected "back" (away from the terminal) and the terminal can be pulled out by tugging on the wire from the back of the connector. (see image below).



Commentary: I found it beneficial to take some digital images to be sure I was able to get the proper terminals/wires back in their correct positions on the new connector shell. There was enough slack to remove one at a time from the old shell and put into the new shell, but I double checked against the photo when I thought I had it complete.

There are at least two terminal part numbers listed for the connector on the back of the BCM. 12110844 and 12110842 are listed and both are "female" terminals that will fit in this connector shell. The difference is in the wire gauge they are designed to support, but both will fit and work in this connector. In this case the wire for the HVAC blower relay is heavier gauge and uses the 12110842. The easiest way to differentiate is by the number of "fingers" that crimp onto the wire. The 12110842 has two thicker fingers and the 12110844 has three thinner fingers. (See images below).





Since I don't have the crimping "tool" for the exact terminal, I pinched it shut with a pair of needle nose pliers and then soldered it figuring if it overheated once, there was no reason not to take the extra step.

12. Once all the terminals have been snapped into the new connector shell, double check your wire colors and locations.
13. Replace the red TPA's by pushing in from top and bottom and snapping into place.
14. Install the rear connector into the BCM with a 7 mm socket (reverse of step 9.)

Continue backward from step 8 to 1.
 

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You guys rock....

You nailed it....I just ordered a new blower motor harness and resistor. Total damages around $80...Thanks much! Looks like this is a design flaw on the Solstice/Sky. I'm surprised a fuse didn't blow. Can anyone tell me what fuse number this circuit would be part of?
 

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Mine went out yesterday. I'm ordering the parts today....it's going to be a hot week or two.
 

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Did anyone notice a funny smell, like burning, when their blower stopped working?
 

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Yah, it does make sense for sure...just making sure those had smelled it. I haven't looked to see if it's melted but...right before it went out the smell was horrid. I ordered the parts regardless..I'll find out when I rip the car apart...again. Getting a little tired of things on this car being defective and commonly defective at that.....
 

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Thanks for the posts. My Solstice had the same problem. It looked just like the pictures down to the melted connection. It took thirty minutes or so to repair. Total cost with tax is $93. The dealer had the parts in stock. Must be a very common problem. I can only imagine the cost had I had the dealer repair it.
 

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Add me to the list, I don't think mine has worked since I got the car. I think I have been feeling the air moving through the vents form driving.

Interesting information, our parts we share parts with a hummer H3, seems the fitment years are the same so we didn't actually get our from them.


Hummer X Forum • View topic - blower not working on H3

AC Blower fix - Page 24 - Hummer Forums - Enthusiast Forum for Hummer Owners

HARNESS. Chassis/Engine Wiring Harness. A/C & HEATER MODULE ASM; HEATER & BLOWER ASM. 2010 Hummer H3 # 25867517
 

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My AC blows warm air and all the fan speed operates. What I've tried so far is checking the fuze box in the hood, recallibrating the controls, and checking Freon levels. I took it to 2 mechanics and both have said that the compressor is the problem. But some of the forum members have said that if it was the compressor my AC wouldn't even work (turn on)? Could it be a resistrictor/wire issue like this thread, or would it be the compressor? My only concern is not trusting the mechanics know what they're talking about.
 

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My AC blows warm air and all the fan speed operates. What I've tried so far is checking the fuze box in the hood, recallibrating the controls, and checking Freon levels. I took it to 2 mechanics and both have said that the compressor is the problem. But some of the forum members have said that if it was the compressor my AC wouldn't even work (turn on)? Could it be a resistrictor/wire issue like this thread, or would it be the compressor? My only concern is not trusting the mechanics know what they're talking about.
Sounds like the compressor to me. If you have plenty of freon, but it's not getting cold, then the compressor is not compressing. (And yes, the compressor could turn on, but yet not have compression.)

This thread is purely about the internal fan motor speed control. If your car is blowing air inside (hot or cold) at all different speeds, then the resistor discussed here is not your problem.

FYI :
 

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Okay thank you T.S., just another quick question though, is it okay to use a "broken" compressor or will it result in other issues? As noted above, it blows warm air already and it's winter time in my area, so would it be okay to use the warmer part of it or should I not turn on my A/C at all to ensure no issues with other parts.
 

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Okay thank you T.S., just another quick question though, is it okay to use a "broken" compressor or will it result in other issues? As noted above, it blows warm air already and it's winter time in my area, so would it be okay to use the warmer part of it or should I not turn on my A/C at all to ensure no issues with other parts.
Well, definitely, if you're not using cooling, leave the A/C switch (the 'snowflake' LED) OFF! Then (unless the compressor clutch has an issue) you'll be fine. Heating and cabin air blowing are not related to the A/C compressor operating.

But if you have a flaky compressor, do NOT use switch the A/C on. Else the compressor could seize and then you might be in a world of hurt.
 

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Well, definitely, if you're not using cooling, leave the A/C switch (the 'snowflake' LED) OFF! Then (unless the compressor clutch has an issue) you'll be fine. Heating and cabin air blowing are not related to the A/C compressor operating.

But if you have a flaky compressor, do NOT use switch the A/C on. Else the compressor could seize and then you might be in a world of hurt.
Don't forget that the compressor also runs when you go into "Defrost" mode for the windshield, even when you are using the heat.
 

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Else the compressor could seize and then you might be in a world of hurt.
Agreed. Complications from pressure changes and also grinding can occur even (depending on the issue) if it doesn't outright seize up, so it's best to leave it off and not risk the entire system getting messed up. If the compressor itself is slowly leaking, it might also be taking in contaminants from outside air.

If you're out of warranty and you choose to shop around for a new compressor and have someone install it in hopes of a slightly reduced cost, I recommend going with the same brand (probably AC Delco). I've changed enough "vital" parts in my car to realize that the off-brand replacements don't always work well, despite an untimely failure on OEM parts. The system will need to be cleared out of contaminants using specialized equipment that most people don't have laying around, so it's best to have a shop take care of this. Looks like you're comfortable with that. Bonus points if they let you supervise and take photos of the in-progress repair to post here! :)


-Jeff
 

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Mehran, do not confuse the clutch with the compressor. if you have your ac on and you hear the clutch click and the compressor come on and you still have hot air then yes, the compressor is probably the problem. I told you to raise the hood, turn all air controlls off, start the car, then turn the AC on and see if the compressor cuts on. you will hear a click and the car will lower the RPM's.

Oh, and Dave, what's defrost? :) we use AC 365 in Houston.
 

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Oh, and Dave, what's defrost? :) we use AC 365 in Houston.
I was in Houston last spring and had to use defrost to clear the condensation on the windshield.

Oh well . . . :willy:

(Defrost happens when you turn the air management knob to the last two clockwise positions.)
 

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must have been one of those fluke things. However, we have the best weather this week. I think it got down in the 50's. but back to the compressor, I guess it has something to do with de-humidifying the air so that's wht the compressor comes on on defrost. One thing I hated about the vette was it had no ac so when the windows fogged you were SOL. the heat and defrost worked but even driving it around in the rain the windows would fog up.
 

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must have been one of those fluke things. However, we have the best weather this week. I think it got down in the 50's. but back to the compressor, I guess it has something to do with de-humidifying the air so that's wht the compressor comes on on defrost. One thing I hated about the vette was it had no ac so when the windows fogged you were SOL. the heat and defrost worked but even driving it around in the rain the windows would fog up.
:agree: :willy:
 
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