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Discussion Starter #1
Ok,
PLEASE help me. I have been vinyl wrapping my car, so it's been sitting in my garage for the past week while I do piece by piece. Before I parked it, everything worked perfect, both windows went up and down, no problem. Now I was getting ready to wrap passenger door, so I tried rolling down the window....nothing. Not even the sound of a struggling motor. Hmmm, went to the driver side (since it has a control for both driver and passenger window), still nothing. Went to check fuses, but there is only one I see that's a big 30amp one (near passenger feet), and all it says is PWRWINDOW. Doesn't have individual fuses for each side. The driver side goes down fine, but passenger won't budge. Any ideas? 2007 solstice GXP with 70k miles. thanks.
 

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You're right, only one fuse. The rest is wiring. Either the motor's blown or your wiring has an issue. Only real way to tell is to take off the door panel and see if you're getting power to the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
how do I go about doing this?? ALL help is appreciated. I have the panel off already, what's next?? I also have a fluke...will this do?
 

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Is this an 'issue' with the Sols? Mine is a bit slow (drivers window isn't exactly the express train either). Couple I did Car Fax on while looking had a note about servicing the passenger side power window.

Just curious.
 

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07 - if the fluke is a multimeter it will do fine. I don't have access to my service manuals (I'm at the office) but if Soup doesn't get you a diagram today I'll try to remember tonight.

It's probably a bad/dirty contact but it could be the motor is dead. Since neither switch works I'd say it is either that the fuse was bad (which I'm assuming it can't be since the driver's side works, right?) or there's a bad connection to the motor on the passenger side window or the motor itself is done.
 

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I can send the schematic, but don't have posting priv's here. PM me your email.
 

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Is this an 'issue' with the Sols? Mine is a bit slow (drivers window isn't exactly the express train either). Couple I did Car Fax on while looking had a note about servicing the passenger side power window.

Just curious.
Passenger window is slow on mine too, as well as a couple of others I've done the auto up/down mod on, so yes, may be a common issue. I think it's an angle adjustment thing on mine, with the window being too tight against the seals. Gonna adjust mine when warmer weather comes (or I get around to it, whichever comes last :))

To verify it on yours, is it slow when the door is open? Or only when closed? If the former, then it's not a seal tightness issue.
 

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Passenger window is slow on mine too, as well as a couple of others I've done the auto up/down mod on, so yes, may be a common issue. I think it's an angle adjustment thing on mine, with the window being too tight against the seals. Gonna adjust mine when warmer weather comes (or I get around to it, whichever comes last :))

To verify it on yours, is it slow when the door is open? Or only when closed? If the former, then it's not a seal tightness issue.
Must be a GM thing, my SS Camaro, my RS Camaro and my Trans AM all have had that same issue with the passenger side window in the past and all failed at least once.
 

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My Sol is noticably slower on the right. The Sky is not. I think its a frictional forces thing due to the specific adjustment of the window.

I would throw a meter on the motor leads and see if you are getting V+. If not, then you can start working back to the source at the BCM. If yes, then its likely the motor. I have two spares at home, I can pull a pic or two of one and see if it does you any good.

:thumbs:
 

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My Sol is noticably slower on the right. The Sky is not. I think its a frictional forces thing due to the specific adjustment of the window.

I would throw a meter on the motor leads and see if you are getting V+. If not, then you can start working back to the source at the BCM. If yes, then its likely the motor. I have two spares at home, I can pull a pic or two of one and see if it does you any good.

:thumbs:
Its actually easier to test at the passenger window switch connector - since it's right there when you take the door panel off. The 'Dark Green' wire (pin A) should be 12V and both the 'Tan' (pin D) and 'Light Blue' (pin H) should be ground. If you can see 12V reading across green-tan and also green to lt.blue, then the wiring TO the door switch is good.

If so, hook up the door switch connector again (have someone hold the door panel up) and operate the switch. You should see either +12V or -12V (depending on switch position) across the 'Brown' and 'Dark Blue' wires which feed the motor. If so, the wiring and switch are good, but your motor is dead.
 

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If anyone is a DIY person, that is understandable. However if you decide to have it looked at by a dealership, let us know. Feel free to contact us privately. Regards.

M. Cline/SM/Sag
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks tomato soup. That was VERY helpful. I'll troubleshoot later on tonight, I hope it's something simple, I've never replaced a window motor, hoping it's not that bad. Anyone have a link to a DIY??
 

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Not to throw any water on this but I have/had windows issues with my sky with BOTH windows not going down. First off I could NOT find a compatible window motor for my windows, (assuming that was the problem) when I ordered one from an outfit it would not fit, it ended up not fitting not compatible, mainly because the gears were not the same and the mounting holes would not line up. My only recourse was to either buy or order the entire window regulator assembly.

Now my problems were NOT the motors as it turns out, it was the cables/wires that feeds thru the entire mechanism, the pulleys and then to the motor mechanism, those cables started to unravel causing them not to able to travel the distance required and what ended up happening is they would "jam" up the works in bwt the window jam, and in one case going up towards the motor, (the cable is made up by twisting wire strands made into a thin cable),... I have a picture of that on my thread over in skyforum which I will dig up and link it here after I upload the pictures I took of my problems with my regulator.. As it turns out, the Sky window regulator assembly is NOT the same as the SOLS, AND on top of that I could not find one available anywhere for the drivers side. However my dealer just happened to have, 1, just one, I therefore finally after a year of no driver window, I just had it fixed last month.. Total cost just for the drivers side? $346.28 for the regulator, plus $187.50 labor, total= $533.78 :eek: minus 20% discount (I happen to have a coupon), so that dropped cost to a jaw dropping $427.03 while he was in there I also HAD to replace the door handle, that cost an additional $91.34 for the handle), no choice the tech said it was barely hanging on. (This is my wife's daily driver to work, imagine the door handle coming off after a hard day at work, I could NOT have that happen to her). Anyway let me add the picture to my thread over there and I'll post the link here soon after I upload the pics.. Oh BTW, I didn't do the passenger side window on this trip cause I had to many other maintenance and other repairs to do with a limited budget.. So that will get done when I get another 20% coupon, hopefully soon..
Good luck with your windows GXP2007.. and oh BTW I have a 2007 NA also and it has been in the elements since the day it was born down here in sunny south Florida..:willy:
I decided to just post the pics here:


Sorta hard to see, but you can make out the wire "mess"
and here is the whole thread if anyone is interested: http://www.skyroadster.com/forums/f5/driver-door-window-kaput-40041/
 

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Discussion Starter #14
::UPDATE::
So I got done with my wrap, and wanted to take her out for a spin. Figured, meh, window is up anyway. Put everything back together, and bam, window goes up and down again............weird. When I had the door panels off and tried by plugging in the switches, it would not go down. Everything is plugged back in and assembled, and it works fine. Thoughts?
 

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I'm overly sensitive to partially smoked terminals in a connector somewhere but that's only because I found that to be the cause in my HVAC motor working intermittently at first, then eventually not working at all. In my case it was a terminal on the back of the BCM that had overheated (likely due to a dirty contact) but still made enough contact once in a while to let the blower work. After several weeks it stopped working completely.

If you pull apart the plugs again, I'd eyeball the insides to look for any brownish residue that might indicate a terminal had overheated. I'm saying this is a possibility moreso than a probability.
 

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Midnite - I feel your pain on the regulator assemblies going nucking futty on you. I worked on some of the early versions of them back in the 80's. They've definitely come a long way but they still suffer from "one little thing out of line = major headaches down the road."
 

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Hello everyone well just had this same issue. With the pass. door not going down. I belive this happened because i put a bit of downwards pressure in the window and i snapped the cable as you can see in the pic looks like it was corroded already. My question is can i get the cable by its self or what part do i need to buy to be able to fix this issue?














Could this be the cause of my issue? when i do press the window button it does like make noise and move a bit but fairly nothing. Im pretty sure its the cable thats causing the issue. but want to get a second opinion.
 

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Blue - was it a braided cable into/through the nylon bushing with the spring over it? I'm thinking it was likely (but not definitely) a bushing molded over the cable. You'll likely need the whole cable. I'll try to dig deeper.
 

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Yeah, its the last pic looks like it got rusted and just came apart form the other end.

Im not sure about the other end but there was a spring like with a plastic piece just laying inside the door.

i think i need a new cable, but not sure where to get the cable ive checked online in rock auto but only get window aculator and some other part worth about $80 but not sure. any help is good. thanks.
 
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