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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All:

2007 GXP, Stick, 60K

The last snow finally stopped falling 2 week ago and on Wednesday I ran though my annual Solstice preflight check (Check the filters, oil, radiator fluid, read my log book for any pending scheduled work, check for leaks, other). Everything looked good and I started her up. Hood was open and the engine purred as much as any LFN does 馃コ. After a couple minutes idling I remembered I needed to grab something from my house. The car is stored in my very dry barn and it's just a 60 seconds round trip and didn't think anything of it.

I am sure you can tell from the tread title. A soon as I walked out of my house and looked at my barn door my first though was my barn is burning down !!!馃が. The garage door 20x18 was just full of what I though was smoke billowing out. Strong emphasis on billowing and LOTS of smoke. I ran full speed and grabbed a fire extinguisher that I keep by the door and notice the smell was not smoke but radiator fluid 馃榾馃榾馃榾馃榾. A dead Solstice makes me sad, but a lot less sad then a burned down barn and potentially house (our fire department is slow). I held my breath and turned off the car, it was so steamy I had to run out of the barn as I have a lung problem from an old injury. After ~2 minutes when the steam cleared I checked and the temp was 243. The floor of the barn was covered in fluid and the entire engine bay was wet (hood was open).

Yesterday:
  • Filled up the radiator by adding almost an entire gallon of fluid, purged the air and could not find any leaks (may need to purge again, using the DDM Works process)
  • Changed the oil and it looked good. No water I could see. The oil only had 1k so it was still as clean as expected for that mileage.
  • No fluid in the cylinder or plugs that I could see with the naked eye.
  • Started up just fine, sounded find but temp slowly climbed to 225 before I shut it down.
I still need to check a bunch of things like the fan ex.. but before I start some assumption or sanity check?
  • I have never had a car overheat like this without a blown hose or such. The volume of fluid and steam and not finding something broken or loose has my concerned? Assumption is when the system overheated it just puked everything it had for breakfast, darn that egg McMuffin and grandads whisky?
  • Last year I noticed the the temp climb going downhill 215? and drop to 200 going up a 2k foot hill by my house (65 mph+ is fun) . I assumed this may have been air in the system?
  • Does anyone have procedure for flushing the cooling system, I didn't find anything on-line.
Any opinions including my sanity are welcome.

Note: yes I know a barn is not a real barn unless it has a broken vehicle in it. 馃槅
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
2-4 months. Temp was 38 F and very high humidity (some small snow plow mounds still around). Maybe that explains the excessive steam??

Aaaaahh, Tim's Garage, I missed that post.

Big Thanks!
 

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A gallon of fluid is going to create a huge volume of steam, especially once it starts to dissipate, so it likely all came from the coolant.

I think you either have a stuck thermostat or a non-functioning fan.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A gallon of fluid is going to create a huge volume of steam, especially once it starts to dissipate, so it likely all came from the coolant.

I think you either have a stuck thermostat or a non-functioning fan.
Yep, it鈥檚 something with the fan. I flushed and purged the radiator and had to use the forced air into the reservoir method to get the bubbles out. After that i could keep the temp at 199-201 if i left the interior heat on. It was 43f out so not an issue. As soon as turned off the heat the temp would start to spike.

I will work on the fan tomorrow and crossing fingers it鈥檚 a a fuse or loose connection.

If it鈥檚 the fan or controller i could not find the part number in any of the other posts. Does this look about right?
Fan Assembly - GM (19130227) for $363 usd
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yep, it鈥檚 something with the fan. I flushed and purged the radiator and had to use the forced air into the reservoir method to get the bubbles out. After that i could keep the temp at 199-201 if i left the interior heat on. It was 43f out so not an issue. As soon as turned off the heat the temp would start to spike.

I will work on the fan tomorrow and crossing fingers it鈥檚 a a fuse or loose connection.

If it鈥檚 the fan or controller i could not find the part number in any of the other posts. Does this look about right?
Fan Assembly - GM (19130227) for $363 usd
small update: a new fan and enclosure for my vin was north of $600.00 (just the part) from the local dealer. The dealer found 8 locally so no shortage.

I will update again with the exact part # and price. At that cost i will trouble shoot my old fan and resell the working components.
 

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at that price you should consider putting in an aftermarket with a nice stainless steel shroud.
 

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Also, when DC fans go bad they typically get harder to turn and this draws more current and will blow the fuse. Check the fuse for the fan (I am sure you did this), spin the fan by hand and see how easy/hard it is to spin the thing. You can also disconnect the wire from the fuse box which is the smaller of the 2 red wires that are bolted to the fuse box. Put a volt ohm meter on AC voltage and test the fan wire you took off the fuse box. You will need to spin the fan manually when you are checking the voltage. The motor will act like a generator when spun manually, this will tell you if the motor is burnt or not. You can also do a continuity/resistance test as well. This will tell you if there is a break in the windings or if the windings are shorted. There should be some resistance when you check.

Verify the relay is good, you can test this by running the car with a meter attached to that fan lead. when the temp gets above 200 the fan should be on. you should see > 12v on that wire. If not then there is an issue with the fuse or the relay. Never check a fuse by looking at it, always test it. A fuse can be no good but not look blown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Also, when DC fans go bad they typically get harder to turn and this draws more current and will blow the fuse. Check the fuse for the fan (I am sure you did this), spin the fan by hand and see how easy/hard it is to spin the thing. You can also disconnect the wire from the fuse box which is the smaller of the 2 red wires that are bolted to the fuse box. Put a volt ohm meter on AC voltage and test the fan wire you took off the fuse box. You will need to spin the fan manually when you are checking the voltage. The motor will act like a generator when spun manually, this will tell you if the motor is burnt or not. You can also do a continuity/resistance test as well. This will tell you if there is a break in the windings or if the windings are shorted. There should be some resistance when you check.

Verify the relay is good, you can test this by running the car with a meter attached to that fan lead. when the temp gets above 200 the fan should be on. you should see > 12v on that wire. If not then there is an issue with the fuse or the relay. Never check a fuse by looking at it, always test it. A fuse can be no good but not look blown.
Thank you for the comment, i did find a video that discussed the same topics and I even swapped out the fuses, no change.

I didn鈥檛 test for current to the fan, will do that next.

When first testing the fan to see if it would spin the fan the blade was stiff for the first 1/16 ?? rotation then loosened up. I would assume this indicates some sort of binding or seized part? Retested and still no spinny.
 

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If the fan was bound up at all then the motor is no good. probably a bad bearing. it heated up enough where it expanded and stopped the fan probably cooked the windings. if you connect the meter to the wires coming out of the fan and spin the fan manually you should get a voltage reading. If you do not then there is a break in the windings probably from the bad bearing thing
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
^ This. Plenty of posts on this. The controller from a Crown Victoria will match and costs in the order of $25.

This is the thread where that was first discovered... Cooling Fan Failure - GXP (Variable Speed?)
A giant thank you to Rob, Soup and the others who responded. I have been silently reading your posts for many years and found them invaluable, and some times gash darn funny.

I just finished pulling everything apart and just have to remove the fan. I could not measure any voltage from the the fan when i spun it. It now spins freely.
I also ran new power from a secondary external source when the fan was disconnected and no go. To be clear I am not the best in the world at this kind of testing so I could have made an error. In any event the new fan is going in tomorrow and i will swap the parts to see if it鈥檚 the fan or controller.

An oddity I noticed was some very thick oil (thick as old grease) on the outside bottom of the silver metal turbo out tube and a small amount of thinner oil on the inside. I didn鈥檛 see or feel anything past the bend (rubber). I have to search the forum but IIRC correctly a small amount of oil blow past is OK. I do check the oil between changes 2-3k and have not noticed any change in level.

I do know i have an intermittent audible leak when under boost but i have never been able to find it. I wander if this is it?
 

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@woz

Here is a read on what is causing the oil you are seeing on the intake pipe and in the compressor end of the turbo.

 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
@woz

Here is a read on what is causing the oil you are seeing on the intake pipe and in the compressor end of the turbo.

Very good read, thank you for posting. Last i read on this topic a CC was not needed but reading the post and from what i saw it most definitely is. Since I have most of the work done already i may just pull out the intercooler and give it a good soak in gas and air ventilation see if i can get the most of the oil out.

As a side note i was talking to a coworker of mine who is located in german and used to work at VW Wolfsburg plant said they had big issue with oil and DI engines just like the Solstice. Sorry but i didn鈥檛 have time to get more details.

Will add a new check valve and catch can to the 鈥渢o do鈥 list.
 

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The oil issue exists will all engines that have a PCV system. I has turned into a problem because of direct injection. A normal injected or even a carbureted engine sprays the fuel into the intake manifold before the valves. Where as DI sprays the fuel directly into the cylinders after the valves. The oil from the PCV system has always been there that has never changed. when the fuel is sprayed into the intake the gasoline acts as a solvent and thins out/breaks down the oil, this single action keeps the backs of the intake valves pretty clean.

When dealing with a boosted application or with a vehicle that has high mileage this problem really shows because of a larger amount of blow by. I just had this issue with my Lincoln MKS. My Lincoln is not Direct Injected but this will explain how there is still an issue with oil getting into the intake on the car. It has about 190K on the odometer, it's a V6 so one bank has a PCV valve and the other bank is where the air intake is for the PCV system. The PCV is connected to the throttle body and the vent is connected to the intake pipe. Problem with my Lincoln is that from the air cleaner box the intake pipe goes up hill for a little bit and right at the apex of that hill is where the vent is connected then the intake goes down hill to the throttle body. between the air cleaner and the vent is the MAF sensor. This is what happens. because the engine has more blow by then what the PCV system is capable of handling the excess air is getting pushed backwards through the PCV system, so the blow by is getting pushed through the vent and into the intake pipe. Ford did not design a baffle in the valve cover where the vent attaches that is capable of stopping the oil vapor from going up the vent line. So the oil ends up in the intake pipe. This gummied up my throttle body. Now this is going to throw you for a loop. When the engine gets shut off there is no air going up the intake pipe so any oil that is sitting in the intake at the apex of the intake can roll either to the throttle body or to the air cleaner. My driveway is pitched and the car is normally parked nose downhill this is going to make the oil roll in the direction of the air cleaner. The oil soaks into the air cleaner and the next time the car gets started the MAF gets a nice spray of oil on it. The blow by causes an even further issue because the air (blow by) is not metered, granted it's not a huge amount of air but it is throwing the air fuel off and I am sure it is causing an issue with fuel efficiency and or performance.

Now with that being said on the GXP the intake pipe is also uphill between the air cleaner and the PCV vent and between the 2 is the MAF. I have not looked at the Base so I do not know if ther would be a problem or not. We already know that the MAF doesn't play nice with oiled air filters because the oil can coat the MAF. Getting oil on the MAF can happen without ever putting in an oiled air cleaner.
 

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and don't bother with the check valve, it is only going to get gummed up and not work anywho. use 2 catch cans one on each line both having the "in" port connected to the valve cover. also make sure that both catch cans DO NOT have a check valve built into them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
wow, just wow. So am am checking out the all the pipes for oil or other issues (why not since i have it open) I notice that both the minting brackets that hang down in the front of the IC are very loose and may not even be connected?? That makes the decision for me and i pull the front clip off and see what鈥檚 going on with the IC.

Well about 10 years ago i install the DDM IC the brackets are not needed. I checked my parts bin and have the original set and now this set ??? They where dangling around because with the DDM there is now way to connect the bottom bolt.

Did i buy a second set of mount partially install them and totally forget about it ?? I can鈥檛 believe i did that ! It must have been aliens.

In any event one of the 4 other bolt to the IC is busted so to see if i can get it out. The parts to that bolt fell out of the bumper when i removed it so it鈥檚 not a total loss.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
wow, just wow. So am am checking out the all the pipes for oil or other issues (why not since i have it open) I notice that both the minting brackets that hang down in the front of the IC are very loose and may not even be connected?? That makes the decision for me and i pull the front clip off and see what鈥檚 going on with the IC.

Well about 10 years ago i install the DDM IC the brackets are not needed. I checked my parts bin and have the original set and now this set ??? They where dangling around because with the DDM there is now way to connect the bottom bolt.

Did i buy a second set of mount partially install them and totally forget about it ?? I can鈥檛 believe i did that ! It must have been aliens.

In any event one of the 4 other bolt to the IC is busted so to see if i can get it out. The parts to that bolt fell out of the bumper when i removed it so it鈥檚 not a total loss.
Flushed out the IC with a measured amount of gas 0.5 L exact. Covered the ends and swished it around in all directions for about 5 minutes. The gas that came out was surprisingly lighter than expected, considering the outside of the pipe was almost tar for the entire length and a bit of the inside. The picture i took didn鈥檛 come out but the best description would be light black (30% transparent).

Recovered .45L

Flushed again with .5l and recovered slightly less than .5 so .1 is trapped. The color or the gas was just a bit darker than that going in.

I did a simple non scientific test with clean gas and it took about 2 teaspoon of cheapest harbor freight black grease to match the color from the first test.

no oil drained out of the ic before cleaning.
 
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