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I did a simple non scientific test with clean gas and it took about 2 teaspoon of cheapest harbor freight black grease to match the color from the first test.

Think about that for a second. Oil is not black. oil is not opaque it has some transparency to it. If you put oil into the gasoline how much do you think you would have to add to get it to the color after you flushed it.

As a suggestion.,...
It would be better if you used kerosene instead of gasoline, it dissolves oil deposits better then gasoline does. I would fill the intercooler with kerosene to the top and cap the pipes, let it sit overnight. next day uncap one of the ends and pour out 2/3rds of the kerosene into a container. then recap and shake the snot out of it, uncap and in another container empty the intercooler. Pour in half of the kerosene that you dumped out initially and shake. do the same with the last amount that is left. I bet you get a whole lot more out, possibly some chunks will come out as well. You will want to hang the intercooler so it can drain, let it hang for 2 days or so before reinstalling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Think about that for a second. Oil is not black. oil is not opaque it has some transparency to it. If you put oil into the gasoline how much do you think you would have to add to get it to the color after you flushed it.

As a suggestion.,...
It would be better if you used kerosene instead of gasoline, it dissolves oil deposits better then gasoline does. I would fill the intercooler with kerosene to the top and cap the pipes, let it sit overnight. next day uncap one of the ends and pour out 2/3rds of the kerosene into a container. then recap and shake the snot out of it, uncap and in another container empty the intercooler. Pour in half of the kerosene that you dumped out initially and shake. do the same with the last amount that is left. I bet you get a whole lot more out, possibly some chunks will come out as well. You will want to hang the intercooler so it can drain, let it hang for 2 days or so before reinstalling.
Agree with your comments 100%

  • I mentioned the color as a reference to how much old dirty (tar) was removed fully.
  • Gas was used as it’s what I have on hand. Tested on the visible tar with just a simple slosh and it removed it quite well.
  • Was debating letting it sit overnight to soak as you suggested. I will take you advice and give it a try and see if i get any chunks. I need to first get the broken bolt out
 

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2009 Pontiac Solstice GXP Coupe 001136
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Woz, I'm pulling for you. Fingers crossed for a full return to service for your GXP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
picture of the tube almost as thick as tar.
Interesting spatter at the inside of the bend is from what I think was a leaking clamp.

I could hear a hiss under high boost.
113340
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
113341
 

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That my friend was a leaking clamp and would cause all kinds of problems with how the car was running.

The oil in the intake tract is also one of the promoters of having the charge pipes pop apart. That oil gets pushed into every single small gap in the charge piping and connections.

Before you put the couplings on make sure you give the outside of the charge pipe and the inside of the coupling a wipe down using a liberal amount of alcohol. This will remove any oil reside before making the connection. If you want to make it easier to get the coupling over the pipe spray both the outside of the pipe and the inside of the coupling with SprayWay glass cleaner. This glass cleaner is alcohol based so it will not damage the coupler at all, it evaporates fast and it leaves no residue when it dries. you can buy a can of it for < 3.00 USD at WalMart. The can looks like it is from the 1950's


113344


I buy this stuff by the case (12 at a time)

safe to use on just about every surface in your house and in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
That my friend was a leaking clamp and would cause all kinds of problems with how the car was running.

The oil in the intake tract is also one of the promoters of having the charge pipes pop apart. That oil gets pushed into every single small gap in the charge piping and connections.

Before you put the couplings on make sure you give the outside of the charge pipe and the inside of the coupling a wipe down using a liberal amount of alcohol. This will remove any oil reside before making the connection. If you want to make it easier to get the coupling over the pipe spray both the outside of the pipe and the inside of the coupling with SprayWay glass cleaner. This glass cleaner is alcohol based so it will not damage the coupler at all, it evaporates fast and it leaves no residue when it dries. you can buy a can of it for < 3.00 USD at WalMart. The can looks like it is from the 1950's


View attachment 113344

I buy this stuff by the case (12 at a time)

safe to use on just about every surface in your house and in
I read your other thread with car cleaning and see why you own stock in the company. Good hint and thanks!
 

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I can't say enough about that stuff. It's cheap and because it is alcohol based it can be used on almost any surface and it does not leave any residue when it dries. It also dries really fast too. There is no need to use newspapers to prevent streaks when wiping glass and for some strange reason paper towels don't leave lint behind either. want super clear windows use this stuff with a razor blade to clean the glass (don't use it on glass that has window film/tint applied to it).

They also make a stainless steel cleaner/polish that works wonders on chromed parts.
 

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Sprayway, Barkeepers Friend and Dawn dish liquid are my go to cleaning products.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
after soaking the IC overnight totally full of kerosene and sloshing about 1/4 for 5 minutes or so i poured the leftover into cloth coffee filter and only find 10 very small black specs a little larger than a head of a pin. Fluid at the bottom was slightly discolored.

Also broke an ezout attempting to get the broken bolt out. 🤯
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
The cam arrived this week and just had time to set it up.
Passenger side of ddm intercooler

just inside the pipe
113548
113547
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
The cam arrived this week and just had time to set it up.
Passenger side of ddm intercooler
View attachment 113548 View attachment 113547
Turbo
113549


inside the black tube where i broke the pcv valve thingy. If i understand correctly this is where the oil catch can should attach. As we can see in the picture it’s a little gummy
113550
113551
 

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I am interested in knowing what the backs of your valves looks like. and also the inside of the intake manifold.

The CAC looks really clean. so that's good!
 

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If you use the camera again on the turbo I can point out where the problem is. in the photo you have attached on the right hand side you can see the port where the vent to the valve cover is attached. If you look at the wall on the opposite side there is a port where the excess pressure in the charge pipes get blow through. and that pressure can be upwards of 14psi with a stock turbo and no tune. Higher if either of those things has been done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
If you use the camera again on the turbo I can point out where the problem is. in the photo you have attached on the right hand side you can see the port where the vent to the valve cover is attached. If you look at the wall on the opposite side there is a port where the excess pressure in the charge pipes get blow through. and that pressure can be upwards of 14psi with a stock turbo and no tune. Higher if either of those things has been done.
That was the maiden voyage of the camera, very good suggestion! For the cost I am very happy with it so far. I may make a sled to get some more control and maybe a 90 degree mirror but once again for the cost it’s a no brainer.

Assuming the stock boost meter is correct i would see very short duration spikes in boost to 21 and back down to a flat line of18 psi.

I hope to take more pictures tonight but i just had a couple minutes before i had to shift priorities back to being a good dad.
 

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That endoscope comes with mirror attachments and also hook attachments for getting things like a wedding ring out of a sink drain!!

A turbo is going to peak like that and then settle in at a lower pressure so that sounds normal. Are you at high altitude or have you had a tune done to the car?


For 60 bucks it has a nice clear image and the battery in it lasts something like 4 or 5 hours of constant use, which is a HUGE amount of time. Using an endoscope is a skill, you are going to have to practice a lot in order to get the hang of how it works. A suggestion is to get an app for your viewing device that locks the screen rotation. so instead of trying to turn the camera so the image on the screen is up, you will turn the screen instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
pulled off more tubs. This is the lower tube to the turbo front. note: small puddle of oil. ( not unexpected )
The hose clamp was very loose also and most likely is why i have some oil spray in the engine bay. So that’s 2 hose clamps that where loose and leaking.
34FB8700-FB07-479B-828A-8FDA18634397.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
picture is of lower turbo, and yes that’s a little bit of oil next to the green dot.

The other side of the green dot is the braided SS line that i believe is the other pcv. I would assume it’s a smoking gun that it’s stuck open????

113604
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
upper turbo, the only place i found oil was on the flange outside lip. The rest of the black is just crude casting or shadows. The tube has zero oil other then the connection point.

Update: need to clean my hands, has very fine oil film
113605
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Checked the upper valve and it allowed air into the valve cover but could not suck any out, this matched the flow arrow on the valve. I thinks it’s good.

Now if i had only not broken it 🙄
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