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So....I've pretty much replace all my turbo related piping/hoses with all silicone, and have DDM charge tubes. I also replaced all worm gear clamps with T-Clamps EXCEPT one...the throttle body. If you've taken it off, you know it's hard to get back on and the factory did a good job of making the hose so it holds the clamp in place in the back so you can put the hose on (very smart), then easily tighten the worm gear (my Subaru Legacy GT had the same construction that held the clamp in place...nice).

I tried getting a T-Clamp on my new DDM elbow but there just didn't seem to be enough room (T-Clamps are much more bulky as you know) so I bailed and put the stock worm back on. I'm just concerned with it blowing off when I increase boost with a tune.

Anyone successful with an aftermarket clamp, and if so, which one?

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well considering the inside bore of the throttle body is 90mm I would say that a 75mm to 85mm clamp isn't going to cut it.
 

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the wall thickness of the coupling is going to be 3mm so 6mm total there plus the 90 mm for the throttle body and You are going to have to add an additional 5mm for the wall thickness of the throttle body which is 10mm of wall across the diameter.
so 90 + 10 + 6 = 106mm
 

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Kevin,

What do you think of this clamp? It's not a T-bolt but does not seem to take up the room either. Might it work in this position?

  1. Constant Tension Clamps
  2. Breeze Constant Torque 9/16" Band
  3. 410 SS Screw

Breeze Constant Torque 9/16" Band
  • The Bellville spring mechanism automatically increases and decreases the clamp diameter due to operational and environmental temperature changes to maintain consistent sealing pressure
  • Extended inner liner protects all types of hoses from damage
  • SAE standard J1508 Type SLF and SLHD
  • High strength 4-piece Quadra-lock construction
  • 9/16" band width
  • 5/16" hex-head cap screw
  • 301 Stainless Steel Belleville springs
  • 304 Stainless Steel band and housing
  • 410 Stainless Steel screw
Part # CT 9480
Band Material 304 SS
Screw Material 410 SS
SAE 80
Band Width 9/16"
Min. Inches 4.0
Max. Inches 5.5
Min. mm 102
Max. mm 140

Torque Range 70 in/lbs
Hex Screw 5/16" Hex Cap
Pricing 1-99 $17.02 each

Website: Industrial Hose Fitting | Large Hose Clamp | Pipe Fittings | Breeze Clamps | Hos

Richard
 

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The only places you need to use a constant pressure clamp which is what those clamps are is at the connection to the turbo. This is because of thermal expansion and the clamp getting stretched if there is no spring on it. The throttle body doesn't get hot enough to have that issue. Not to mention space is really limited where that clamp is and trying to get that one with the spring down in there would be a royal pain.
 
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2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP - Mysterious (with unkown origin blue sparkle in rear bumper cover paint)
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FWIW i have a T-bolt clamp on my DDM Silicone Throttle body hose.
After struggling with it a couple times, I realized i could get it to hold in place with a little painters tape on the outside. Then once it was tightened the painters tape came right off (I left a long folded over extra lenth of tape on it so that i could just grab it like a "tab" to pull off the whole strip)..
I have often thought how nice it would be if the DDM Silicone included the clamp attached like the OEM rubber one for exactly the reason the OP posted.

I can't remember the size of the T-Bolt clamp but i did order it from DDM with the throttle body silicone hose as I assume they already knew all the correct sizes.
 

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The only places you need to use a constant pressure clamp which is what those clamps are is at the connection to the turbo. This is because of thermal expansion and the clamp getting stretched if there is no spring on it. The throttle body doesn't get hot enough to have that issue. Not to mention space is really limited where that clamp is and trying to get that one with the spring down in there would be a royal pain.
Interesting factoid KG. Maybe that is the source of my whistle as I only have a regular t-clamp on the turbo outlet to charge pipe....
 

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The ultimate temperature is an important factor, but the driving criteria is delta T. If you tighten the clamp on a cold day, then the operating temp is 100 degrees higher you can end up with too much pressure on the clamp. Ideally using a constant torque clamp obviates the over torque condition. I am using constant torque because I can 😇
 

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I have something whistling in my car as well. Mine sounds like a steam ship whistle. It's as loud as one is as well. only happens when i get into the high teens for boost pressure. I think I need to get a siny bit larger o-ring on the TMAP sensor. It's not as snug as I would like it to be. I am going to do that tomorrow morning on my way to emissions.
 

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When we went to remove the MAP sensor from the factory charge tubes, it refused to come out. I put in a new spare. The new spare is identical but for the seal. the seal is smaller. When I went on line to replace the now used spare I found that the BOSCH MAP sensor has been replaced with a new part number and at least on CED, the seal is a separate part. Apparently so you can remove and reinstall the sensor when needed.
 

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I have something whistling in my car as well. Mine sounds like a steam ship whistle. It's as loud as one is as well. only happens when i get into the high teens for boost pressure. I think I need to get a siny bit larger o-ring on the TMAP sensor. It's not as snug as I would like it to be. I am going to do that tomorrow morning on my way to emissions.
That sounds exactly like mine. I have described it elsewhere as a steady tone, like a teakettle and it only happens from about 15 PSI and up.
Let me know if you figure yours out.
It only started when i installed the EFR turbo.
I have pressure tested the air charge system and i don't think its the sensor on the cold side charge pipe and i replaced the stock air box with the GM CAI and that made no difference either.
The only variation to my whistle is if i stay in boost for a longer period of time (5th gear on the freeway) it “flutters” or “stutters” out at the end of the whistle.
 

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I have not let mine go past the 15psi when it started. I had thought that it might have been one of the vacuum line connections at first because I changed everything over to AN fittings and there are a lot of compression connections. 6 in total 3 for the boost control solenoid and another 3 on the bypass valve solenoid. I have them tightened up really good. I may have to check them again. I didn't make it to emissions yet as it was 18 degrees out yesterday and not ideal for working on the vehicle. I may take the car for a couple hard rips around the block to see if I can get whatever it is making the whistle isolated. If I can get the pitch to change on the sound then I know I am messing with the thing that is causing it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks all for your input. Great info!

The clamp I show is the factory clamp as far as I know...it's what was on there at least and what I can fit in there. It might not be the right size but seems to hold decently.

I have a t-clamp that I'll give a try again and use Gadget's suggestion.
 

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We installed new charge pipes (green of course) and the DDM throuttle body elbow on the Dragon this weekend. Strobe used a constant pressure spring T clamp and with the bolt facing forward had no issues with the installation. Sorry you are having challenges.

I installed the same DDM elbow on my car back when it was turbocharged. I dont recall any challenges with that install bt it was several years ago. Mayhaps the clamp size is the issue?
 

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Those types of clamps have flanges that need to be welded on and they allow for zero movement/flex. Not ideal for attaching pipes to an engine
 

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from the video it looks like they slip on and have a cam closer that applies the pressure and keeps them closed. I did not see any welding. But they need to be the right size which can be a challenge for many of us. :)
 

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In every single shot you can see the welded on flanges.

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from the video it looks like they slip on and have a cam closer that applies the pressure and keeps them closed. I did not see any welding. But they need to be the right size which can be a challenge for many of us. :)
The HD series clamps shown in that video require ferrules that are welded to the ends of the tubes: HD Clamps - Vibrant Performance
 
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