Pontiac Solstice Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
08 Sky Redline, 5M
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My water pump is literally less than 500 miles old from my timing chain and WP replacement, ACDelco. Just saw it's weeping, maybe from that port. Its not coming from around the pipe it appears. Not a lot, barely enough to even have dripped onto the floor, coolant level was not down at all. My temps are pretty rock solid at 188-199 even at AX, sometimes up to 210 for a few minutes at best. I have an RPM dual core radiator.

How long can you go on a water pump before it definitely needs replaced?
Thoughts appreciated.

113725
 

·
Registered
08 Sky Redline, 5M
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Do these barf out rubbers seals when they wear?

From inside the port, and right below it.

113726


113727
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,114 Posts
Do these barf out rubbers seals when they wear?

From inside the port, and right below it.

View attachment 113726

View attachment 113727
usually they don't. they just wear away until they begin to gradually leak worse and worse. Usually when they go all at once, the bearing has gone and the shaft is wobbling, destroying the seal pretty quickly. I suppose it is possible to get a new, still in the box, pump that is as old as the car and has dried out seals. If it is not dripping and the reservoir is still full. what made you discover it was leaking? I have seen (rarely) pumps that leak a little when new and then seat themselves and stop leaking. That doesn't explain the trash and coolant in the weep cavity though. You might verify the leak by flushing out the weep cavity with some fresh water with no anti freeze in it, run it a while and see if any more coolant, orange colored, and trash shows up. Just a wild guess but it could have gotten in the weep hole cavity when the pump was installed.
 

·
Registered
08 Sky Redline, 5M
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hm, maybe I'll try that. I've already ordered a new one to have. The pump went on "dry", as in I was doing the timing chain and guides replacement and I used a vacuum tool to fill it. I got it from RockAuto this Jan/Feb. It appeared legit/new and in good shape. Installation was not rushed nor cramped, all the turbo stuff was totally off, I had lots of room to work.
I autocross the car, maybe the gravel is from all kind of stuff getting flung about at speed (the venue from last weekend is a little on the gravelly/dirty side). I did not specifically look at the pump area right after I had the car on the road or after the first 3 AX events.
I put the car up to tighten all nuts and bolts and check on a sound on the front left wheel - and happened to see the orange coolant. I like to keep an eye on my racecars ... but this may have started literally 2 days ago. ¯\(ツ)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,741 Posts
The length of time is a mystery. Some have gone one ignition cycle, some have had a leak that "healed" and never seen it again. Some have come out and seen their entire system coolant laying on their garage floor. Usually once they start to leak, that's there warning to you...that a catastrophic failure is coming. I was smart (or dumb by people here). I had a roadtrip the day after I discovered mine was leaking, so I loosened the reservoir cap and drove my 400 miles the next day. No issue. Got home that night and it went to the dealer the next morning where it puked everything on their service drive floor...
 

·
Registered
Previously owned a 2007 Solstice. Base model, manual trans, limited slip, black on black.
Joined
·
47 Posts
This may sound old school, but, I'm a firm beliver in adding water pump lube any time your into the cooling system.
It keeps seals soft and plyable and helps keep small leaks at bay.
I would add a can or bottle if I were you. Keep an eye on it because it may cease, and your worries will be over!
 

·
Registered
2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP
Joined
·
2,201 Posts
minutes, hours, days or months. Take your pick. It can be any of them.

The weep hole is there to tell you that the shaft bearings on the pump are going bad.
 

·
Registered
2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP
Joined
·
2,201 Posts
The pump is not that hard to do. You will need a tool to do it. It holds the pump gear in place so you don't get a whine from it.

  • If you unbolt the bracket that holds the fuse box in place and take the passenger fender and wheel liner off you can get to the bolts on the thermostat housing.
  • Unclip the exhaust cam, sensor o2 sensors, coil packs, VVT solenoids and the temperature sending unit. Pull the harness to the drivers side of the car to get it out of the way.
  • From the top of the engine between the valve cover and the firewall you will want to unbolt the water neck from the thermostat housing. You do not need to take the hose off you just need to unbolt it.
  • Unbolt the coolant line for the turbo from the thermostat housing and take the heater core hoses off.
  • Remove the intake pipe to the turbo.
  • Now you can push the thermostat housing to the firewall. This will pop the pipe to the water pump out of either the water pump or the thermostat housing. Either way you need to pull the pipe completely out. You can sneak it out from the front of the engine under the turbo.
  • Remove the cover for the water pump gear. Install the holding tool and tight it up good. Get the correct size socket for the bolts to the pump gear and put Vaseline in the end of the socket. Then go after the bolts reloading the Vaseline for each bolt. The Vaseline holds the bolt in the socket so you don't drop it inside the timing chain cover. Use Vaseline when putting the bolts back in too.
  • Undo the bolts on the back of the pump and remove the pump. It too can be snuck out from under the turbo.
You are going to need some really long extensions and also swivel extensions to get to the thermostat housing bolts and the water neck bolts. The GM shop manual has you pulling the catalyst and the turbo and lifting up the passenger side of the engine. None of this needs to be done to replace the pump. If you are mechanically inclined (which I know you are) it shouldn't take more then 3 hours to do including refilling the coolant system.


The hardest part are the 3 bolts that hold the thermostat housing to the block. once you have the fender and fender liner removed and the fuse box with bracket moved out of the way you can see the 3 bolts by squatting down and looking under the turbo and under the hook in the catalyst.

The banjo bolt for the coolant line to the turbo can be removed using a 19mm open ended wrench from the top of the catalyst between the catalyst and the block.
 

·
Registered
08 Sky Redline, 5M
Joined
·
162 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I know how to do it, I’ve had the whole the whole engine apart before. KG you've seen my build thread.
 

·
Registered
2008 Pontiac Solstice GXP
Joined
·
2,201 Posts
I know you have had a lot of the engine apart. Didn't know if you knew that you can get the thermostat housing moved out of the way without having to jack the engine, remove the cat and remove the turbo.

Plus this is also for others to read as well 😜
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top