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Discussion Starter #21
You don't happen to have a father that's a pilot by chance....do you? The reason I asked was my father's cousin was just here and he's a pilot and said his daughter, who is a flight attendant was looking for a sporty car. And he happened to see mine because it's kept in my parent's garage over the winter and thought it would make a great car for his daughter.

Are they less reliable then any other car? No. Are they more expensive to repair? Sometimes. There are very specific procedures for several different repairs and if not followed, will cost a lot more money to fix....WP being one of those repairs. Lifting the car on a hoist incorrectly is another. All in all, they really aren't that much more expensive or troublesome then any other used vehicle out there.

I think you'd be okay with a Solstice. They really aren't that expensive to own...if you get one that hasn't been beat on....but that's true of any car. We're all here if you have any questions or need any help.
My father is indeed a pilot. I’m not sure if I’m the same person though or if it’s just a hell of a coincidence. If she has a Saab, that’ll answer your question.
 

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Are you mixing up the Driver Information Center (DIC) and the Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC)?

The DIC is the display screen in the instrument cluster that can be scrolled through odometer, trip miles, fuel range, engine temperature, etc but as far as I know cannot be used to read any engine codes.
The DLC is the connector that any car built after 1996 has below or somewhere near the steering column that is used to read vehicle systems data with an OBDII diagnostic scanner.
Yes, for some reason I mixed up the OBD port w/the different warning icons that light up indicating there may be an issue w/the battery, airbag, ignition lock, oil, temp, etc). I'll clarify that point in my thread.
 

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Welcome o the forum & i can't add much more as the above forum members have done a very good job. Let us know what solstice you get & how you like the ride..
 

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Been driving my GXP for 13 years last week. Daily driver. Only issues have been to replace rear differential under warranty 6 months after purchase, replace water pump and replace battery at 11 years. That's it. It gets driven every day. 130,000 miles. Looks mint. Garage kept. Top down 90% of the time.
 

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$2,500 for a new clutch??? Really???
Unfortunately, yes.
Every place I've taken it to (to get a quote for when the inevitable happens) says it'll be $2k+.
Something about having to remove a lot of stuff to get to it?
I do also think mechanics immediately tense up around this car. I've even had a dealership refuse to work on it because they didn't have the "right tools"... Though I'm able to do the same thing (timing chain) in my garage, lol.

In my experience, these cars are average reliability. The more you drive it, the more reliable it'll be IMHO. They really like to be driven, that is for certain.
 

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most cars you have to remove a lot of stuff to get trans out. I havent done one of these,but Ive done well over a few hundrad on oh somany other cars. I can see a rip off shop charging $1200 but not any more.but they charge what they want to charge so......shop around and check then out. many places see this as a toy car so they charge toy prices, wanna play better be ready to pay... Ive had some cars that were a totally bitch to get appart...and one show car that was built around the trans..the engine had to come out to remove trans...not what you want on a show car. atleast it isant like a mgb or midget and others where the tunnel is totaly encloosed...and it's all got to come out..but then those are not bad either. it is what it is and we have to deal with it. or get a different car. like the new turbo stang with around 334 hp out of the 4 cylinder...I was impressed with the 2017 turbo stang but this new one...now thats somethen to think on.. they added a much better flowing cylinder head and a few other mods with a modest option price tag to get it.
 

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Hmmm....I still say $2,500 for a clutch on these relatively simple cars is a BS price.
I came from owning a couple Dodge Challengers and even with the high tech clutch on the 5.7 Hemi it's only about $1,800 for a clutch.
 

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Hmmm....I still say $2,500 for a clutch on these relatively simple cars is a BS price.
I came from owning a couple Dodge Challengers and even with the high tech clutch on the 5.7 Hemi it's only about $1,800 for a clutch.
Do you have a quote for a Solstice clutch replacement to compare it to?
Keep in mind that labor rates vary across the country, and shop rates in SC are likely quite a bit lower that what is paid in some other areas.
 

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Do you have a quote for a Solstice clutch replacement to compare it to?
Keep in mind that labor rates vary across the country, and shop rates in SC are likely quite a bit lower that what is paid in some other areas.
Not a current quote but the Challenger quote I got was for California labor and that's a more high tech complex clutch.
I could be wrong about the $2,500 but in my 59 years I've never heard of a price so high for a 4 cylinder clutch is all I'm saying.We're not talking about a Italian Exotic Sports car here.
 

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Repair time ranges from 5.4 to 9.3 hours depending on the book followed, and I have seen parts priced at over $1500 depending on what is being replaced and where the parts were purchased.

Because of the design of the short propeller shaft the drive axle has to be removed or at least loosened to get the transmission out. The torque arm also complicates things, as does a lot of limited access.
 

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Here's another thing to think about.
Sometimes a service person or mechanic will grossly over quote a job because they really don't want to do it.
I've had this happen to me a few times.
Once I called 2 plumbers to get a quote to change my kitchen faucet.
One plumber quoted $120.00 for the labor.
The other one quoted $650.00!!
Who do you think really wanted to do the job?
 

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Repair time ranges from 5.4 to 9.3 hours depending on the book followed, and I have seen parts priced at over $1500 depending on what is being replaced and where the parts were purchased.
Ok....so lets say worst case scenario it's 9 hours....say $120.00hr labor that's $1,080.00.
Clutch kit depending on what kind you get is anywhere from $300 to about $600
So total if it's $600 is about $1,600 and that's if you pay $120.00 an hour for labor and $600 for the kit.
If you replace a couple other parts like the slave cylinder or flywheel you could add another hundred or two and your still under $2000.
I think that guy that quoted $2,500 didn't want to do the job....but he could just be greedy too.
 

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The reported airbag problem is with the Passenger Seat Sensor. The design was weak, and they sometimes (frequently ?) fail prematurely. There is a recall for the problem, and you will want to check to see if it has been done. The biggest problem still is that a car taken in for the recall that had a working sensor only had that sensor reinforced. Some of those reinforced sensors have subsequently failed, some of them after the 12-month warranty had expired. The repaid is around $800 if not covered. The rest of the airbag system has not been a problem.

In contrast to The Ghost's less-than-troublefree experience, mine has been quite good.
I'm the glass half (or more) full guy.

At 87k (RL) and 105k (NA):

Both have the original clutch
One set of camshft solenoids has been replaced
Fluid life and changes are no different than any other vehicle
Battery life is comparable to any other vehicle at about 5 years, but I will agree that it is a pain to change one.
Hub bolts haven't been a problem - but I do check them
Both have original thermostats

No cat problems ('13 Equinox 2.4 also still has original cat at 127k)
Both have original waterpumps

No timing chain problems
Turbos do need synthetic oil (The Saab probably did too)
RL is happy with mid-grade fuel and NA with regular
Spark plug life seems comparable to any other vehicle, and both still have the originals

NA oil gets changed at around 9k and the RL at around 8k, when indicated by the OLM
At this mileage an oil analysis has indicated that the oil is due for changing, but still serviceable

Mechanically, mine have been typical GM Powertrain. No more trouble, and no less.
My ownership experience has been the same. '07 GXP bought new in Jan '08, under 50k miles, parked all winter(s) and gets a shot on a Deltran Battery Tender once a month and only winter started when the driveway is dry and salt-free. Then I'll pull it out of the garage in a straight line and after 10-15 minutes and at full temp, pulled back in a series of s-turns to re-position the tires. Original battery, water pump, cam solenoids, etc. 100% stock & runs like a new car ☺
 

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My ownership experience has been the same. '07 GXP Original battery,
Now that's amazing!
I have a 07 also and I know the battery isn't original but I have no idea how old the replacement is since the previous owner didn't use the date stickers on the battery.
 

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Don't they punch the stickers at the factory? For warranty purposes? At least everyone I've ever looked at was done that way.

My personal record was my college car - a 1999 Malibu that went to its grave in 2014 with 240,000 miles and the original battery, marked August '98
 

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Don't they punch the stickers at the factory? For warranty purposes? At least everyone I've ever looked at was done that way.

My personal record was my college car - a 1999 Malibu that went to its grave in 2014 with 240,000 miles and the original battery, marked August '98
Wow...that's a long life battery too...I've never had a battery last more than about 7 or 8 years.
Not sure on the date code stickers....mine are all there so???
 

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Every battery that I have installed has had a date indicated on it when I bought it. As Phil said, how would they know how to warrant it otherwise?
 

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Every battery that I have installed has had a date indicated on it when I bought it. As Phil said, how would they know how to warrant it otherwise?
They warranty it from the date of purchase on your receipt.
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This battery that I have and others I've had have the various years and month stickers that you remove when you buy it.
This one has ALL the stickers still on it like I said so i don't know how old it is.
 

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Don't they punch the stickers at the factory? For warranty purposes? At least everyone I've ever looked at was done that way.

My personal record was my college car - a 1999 Malibu that went to its grave in 2014 with 240,000 miles and the original battery, marked August '98
Every battery I've ever bought had all the stickers and the purchaser removes the correct ones at purchase.
 
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