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I figured since this seems to be a more common problem as mileages get higher on our cars, I thought I would pose the thread and the question to our veterans that have suffered this:

How do you know when your hubs are coming loose? How do you check them? How do you stop this from happening?

Just thought I would throw it out there since I've seen this more and more here on the forums.
 

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Are you talking about wheel bearing play? that's usually what causes the loose or clunking noise you hear when you drive over small bumps. I doubt our cars can be tightened by the bolt so all you can do is replace the bearings when they start getting loose. My guess is about 60k miles.
 

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No he means the bolts (3) that attach the hub/bearings to the suspension arms, per the picture below.

As for when to know they are getting loose, listen out for rattles. Or do preventative maintenance and check they are tight periodically. Locktite is about the only thing I know of to keep them tight.

 

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Spooky thing is that I got no rattles or vibrations after an autoX day. 2 of the 3 were loose. Just add it to the checklist. I check mine every 2-3 months or after all big runs.
 

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Oh, I had no idea. I like the sound of loc-tite. red or blue? and what's the torque spec on those?
 

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what size is the head? looks like a 9/16 from the photo and I wouldnt go over 45 with that. 85 sounds like the bolt that holds the hub on, what I was originally talking about. Now, if they are 11/16 or 3/4 then I could see doing 85 but not with anything less.
 

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what size is the head? looks like a 9/16 from the photo and I wouldnt go over 45 with that. 85 sounds like the bolt that holds the hub on, what I was originally talking about. Now, if they are 11/16 or 3/4 then I could see doing 85 but not with anything less.
You should complain to GM :lol:
 

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I'd have better luck teaching my dog to pee in the toilet and flush. so what size is the bolt head? and that's aluminum correct?
 

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Timely subject. I have 67k on mine. Thought I heard a little rattle going down the driveway the other day. Sounds like a little "shop time" for me this weekend.
 

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15 mm. IIRC, it's a dissimilar metal thing going on. Bottom line, they need to be checked.
 

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15mm. Ok, I'm gonna check mine and any that I can easily turn I'll remove, clean, apply blue loc-tite and torque to 60ft lb. And since the 06 has more miles and is not as smooth as the 08, I'll bet that's some of the problem. Thanks guys.
 

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Just curious as to why you don't agree with the torque specifications as published by GM in their Solstice/Sky Service Manual?

85 ft lbs

last line in the table.
 

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That bolt just looks too small to handle that and the last think I want to do it twist it off or strip the threads. However, I'm making these assumptions from my office and haven't physically looked at it yet.
 

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That bolt just looks too small to handle that and the last think I want to do it twist it off or strip the threads. However, I'm making these assumptions from my office and haven't physically looked at it yet.
OK. Get back to us after you've had a look . . . :toetap:
 

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well, I just looked at some charts and if it's fine pitch and grade 8 then it's rated at over 100ft lbs so I guess the chart is correct. Oh well, that's just me playing it safe. the last 50 engines I rebuilt were from the 70's and the usual max on a 5/8 was 65 so that's what I was thinking.
 

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The knuckles are aluminum, but the hubs they thread into are steel. Grade 8 bolts, as you stated, TX08manualGXP. The recommendation I've seen on these boards (and it seems like at least once attributed to GM is locktite RED. That will likely take some heat to undo if/when you need to replace the hubs, but even if you snap the bolts it's no big deal b/c the part that the bolt threads into is what you'd be replacing anyway. Just don't round off the head.
 
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