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Discussion Starter #1
So I recently replaced the wiring harness on my HVAC system in order to fix my AC. Now I'm having the issue where the AC either blows super cold or one notch up it'll blow really hot. I did the calibration reset and that did not help. My question is, is it alright to leave it that way? It doesn't bother me that much just want to make it sure it won't cause any harm. I have an extra full HVAC system with all the components to fix it but I'd rather not deal with the hassle if it doesn't hurt anything to leave it as is. Thanks in advance.
 

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Welcome to the forum.

I have not heard of any damage being caused by the loss of calibration, but i have also not heard of anyone leaving it that way.

Sometimes the calibration procedure has to be performed several times to get it to work, so if you haven't already, trying it a few more times might be worthwhile.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you! I may need to try it a few more times to see if that'll fix it. It's like I said I don't really mess with the temperature as it is. I mean if it bothers me I just turn the blower speed down, but of course if I can fix it I'd rather have it work properly. When I do the reset is it suppose to do anything else other than blink the lights on the AC and Defroster for a bit?
 

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You should hear the actuators moving, and there may be something else, but I haven't done it for several years and my memory of it isn't that clear.

A forum search will probably turn up several descriptions of the process and what people experienced.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I can hear the actuators during the calibration, I've done it roughly 5 times now and it hasn't took. I've read on some of the other pages about it possibly being the resistor or the blend door actuator. I have both on the extra HVAC system I have laying in my garage. I just figured it needed to be recalibrated when I swapped out the wiring harness. However I bought the car with the AC not working so maybe the resistor or the actuator were already bad and of course I didn't know it.
 

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Someone will correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that the resistor is only related to the fan.
It could very well be the actuator, given your repeated calibration failures.
 

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There is a thread on adding a resistor to off-set the "full cold/full hot" condition. I implemented it on my '07 and it worked like a charm.
 

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Someone will correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that the resistor is only related to the fan.
It could very well be the actuator, given your repeated calibration failures.
It is indeed the actuator. It appears that some of them fell into a mode of a little voltage causing a full range of motion on the actuator. The resistor offsets that by restricting how much voltage goes through.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That makes sense, is it relatively easy to swap out? From what I understand it can be accessed from under the dash on the driver side? I can see how adding a resistor would help, but I'd rather not go the soldering route if I can refrain from it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
When I get off work today I'll check and see if my extra HVAC has the actuators on it, if it doesn't I know they're not that expensive. I have a feeling that's my issue since the calibration didn't work. I'm just happy I still have AC/Heat even if I can't control the temperature
 

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It is indeed the actuator. It appears that some of them fell into a mode of a little voltage causing a full range of motion on the actuator. The resistor offsets that by restricting how much voltage goes through.
Interesting. Is it to correct an actuator that has stopped working, or to compensate for a replacement that doesn't work?
 

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Here's more for the full cold/full hot problem: Air/Heater Control Failure

... and the 'resistor' TSB (linked in the above) is at: A/C intermittent failure --

Subject: HVAC Temperature Goes Full Hot When One Click Off Full Cold
Models: 2006-2008 Pontiac Solstice
2007-2008 Saturn Sky


Condition/Concern:

Some customers may complain that the temperature will go to full hot when they turn the temperature control one click off of full cold. The control head is defaulting to Emergency Mode (this provides HOT air to clear the windshield in Defrost mode). This will happen if the feedback voltage for the air temperature actuators are out of range.

Recommendation/Instructions:
Locally obtain a 60 to 68 ohm 1/2 watt resistor, and install it in-line in circuit 1688 pin F of the HVAC control head. Install the resistor just behind the HVAC control head.
 

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I had a similar issue. Tried adding the resister but it didn't help. It turned out to be a loose connector in the wiring behind the glove box.
 

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That makes sense, is it relatively easy to swap out? From what I understand it can be accessed from under the dash on the driver side? I can see how adding a resistor would help, but I'd rather not go the soldering route if I can refrain from it.
easy and cheap to replace. Just pop out the glove box and there it is.
 

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Hey Bill. Could you elaborate a lil more about it? what am i looking for in there?
You will have to remove the glove box to see it. behind the glove box there is a resistor packet that is screwed to the firewall. there is a plug in that packet which can be unplugged and then the whole resister assembly can be removed The whole thing is only about 1 1/2 inches square. A lot of times the problem will be only a matter of cleaning the the plug and socket to make a better contact. The whole assembly is available from many sources and easily replaced. When mine went bad it ws just a matter of bad connection. I could see where the wire insulation had overheated. I just cleaned the connector, taped the wire, and it has been working ever since.
 

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