[Fluffy]

They are c0899, p0010,p0030,p0053,p0102,p0113,p0135,p0137,p0689,p1516,p1682. The car has been in a wreck, starts and runs great with no problems. don't know what to do at this point.:brentil::brentil: <Afraid my car is going to do this!:willy:While I'm doing this!

 

[chickenwire]

Winner winner! Do you have your own code reader? I was just given an innova for Father's Day and though it wasn't my first choice, their website and interface is kinda nice. It will give you what the codes mean and the suggested fixes for your vehicle.

Otherwise you can start googling those codes to find out what's what. (You can search on this side using the search button - kinda hidden in the dark gray band toward the top 1/3 of the screen.) For example, you'll find threads on the P0010 being a camshaft position sensor which is fairly easy to replace if I remember correctly.)

 

[chickenwire]

For example, check this link below

http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f12/code-p0011-camshaft-position-actuator-48080/index2.html

Starts right out with a suspect battery. Put a meter on that thing. If the voltage is okay then check all your connections and ground straps. The battery may be able to start your engine fine, but microprocessors are fussy little pr!cks and voltage means everything in the world to them.

 

[Fluffy]

Funny, I don't feel like a winner.The Battery is kinda old, so a new battery I will get. Gonna check grounds. I have a friend that said I can borrow his reader. but the codes meaning I have listed below
p0010 Intake camshaft position
p0030 Heater control circuit sensor 1
p0053 Heater resistance sensor 1
p0102 Mass air flow sensor circuit
p0113 intake air temperature circuit high voltage
p0135 Heater performance sensor1 HOS2
p0137 Circuit low voltage sensor2 HOS2
p0689 Engine controls ignition relay feedback circuit low voltage
,p1515 Throttle actuator control module throttle actuator position performance
p1682 Ignition 1 switch circuit 2
and last but not least c0899 something to do with the brakes.

 

[rob the elder]

In the past, getting a lot of random codes has been a result of electrical supply issues. The car has several single board computers and data busses it isosdkble to have enough power to boot and start the car but not enough for all the self tests to complete. The BCM interprets this as a failur when in actuallity it is not.

Time for a careful check of your cables, ground connections to the motor. And probably a new battery.

 

[MidniteBlues]

2 of those codes bother me..

p0137 Circuit low voltage sensor2 HOS2
p0689 Engine controls ignition relay feedback circuit low voltage

Low voltage and the scatter of multiple codes all over the place would indicate a defective battery. That would be the first place to start. Question is, how old is your battery really?? So I agree with other guys, it would be the logical place to start..:yesnod: The other concern would be some type of a drain sucking away power.. But that will be determined after putting in a new batt...

 

[Fluffy]

Checked and wire brushed all the grounds I could find, Engine Head on top by the spark plugs, each side of hood hinges probably for the headlights, fuse block pos., and brushed both battery connections. The Battery is a 6 year delco i'm thinking maybe its original, can't find a date code anywhere on it, my meter reads 12.5 volts and a load tester says its good but on the week side. found the upper Rad. hose's hose clamps going into the engine was up against a wire bundle not wore but not taking a chance on it being the next problem. Took off fender and getting new battery and code reader tomorrow.

 

[MidniteBlues]

I am now pretty well convinced it is your battery. Load testers don't so well on our kappas, unfortunately. Also the 12.5 volts is to low IMO, I believe what we expect is something in the neighborhood of 14 volts plus/minus or so, don't recall if that is with the engine running or shut down.. letme see if I can find a thread on that...You didn't say if the 12.5 v was with engine running?? also a 6 YO batt is about the life on these thing we have found out, since many are dying, mine died just over 6 YO..

Found this thread from snaponbob..http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/f12/what-happens-when-battery-light-comes-31659/

get a volt meter and check for 13.6-14 volts DC at the battery with the engine idling. If it is around 12.5 volts you DO have a problem. If it shows in the mid/high 13's at idle you are okay

 

[Fluffy]

Car sits for a while and battery don't drain.

 

[chickenwire]

I agree with MB's link/post. If you're not above 13 and a half volts you're toeing the line.

 

[Fluffy]

I would expect 14 with it running. But now it's apart and I can't start it.

 

[chickenwire]

< now he's going out to check his because he thinks it's the original . . . >

 

[boboborino]

you can try this

How to Properly Check the Juice in Your Car Battery - Popular Mechanics


Bert

 

[Fluffy]

Replaced the battery, they tested the old one and said it was on the low side of good not close to weak. Bought new one anyway $175 Bucks only 3 cars take this battery. The new one tested 50 amps more power. Reset the OBDII codes with a reader and only codes p0010 and p0030 came back, Check engine light went out. So I think I'm done for now. I would have never suspected the battery. I was thinking I was going to have to take it to the dealer and buy a ECU unit. Thank you very very much everyone involved in this. The Forum is very useful.

 

[Fluffy]

Winner, Winner Chicken Wire Dinner!

 

[chickenwire]

Glad to hear of the progress. Keep us posted on the remaining 2!

 

[BellaVerde]

A couple of weeks of normal driving may take care of those codes. As stated before, repair of the "10" code is fairly easy...not familiar with the "30"..........

 

[Fluffy]

10 is the Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid, I believe that is located on the front top of the engine and there are 2 of them, close to where the spark plugs are. 30 is the oxygen sensor Heater circuit, Don't know if it's up or down stream, I didn't run it that long so it probably hasn't had time to heat up any way. But I know where these sensors are so it shouldn't be that hard if the light comes back on, or the codes don't clear after driving it for a while.

 

[RedSkyMan]

Reading threads like this kinda brings back old memories of how easy it used to be to maintain ones car with nothing more then a dwell meter, timing light, couple of screw drivers, a crescent wrench and perhaps a hammer and a roll of duct tape. :devil: :glol:

 

[boboborino]

Reading threads like this kinda brings back old memories of how easy it used to be to maintain ones car with nothing more then a dwell meter, timing light, couple of screw drivers, a crescent wrench and perhaps a hammer and a roll of duct tape. :devil: :glol:

A little before my time, but interesting!

What does Dwell meter actually measure ? - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards