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I have…so many problems with my solstice. Pls help

1627 Views 44 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  halnwheels
-sigh- idek where to begin.

first issue: I bought this 2009 solstice gxp that had a bunch of stage 3 upgrades from RPM motorsports but it had the wrong tune on it. I got rpm motorsports to re-tune it only to discover that the exhaust manifold is cracked.
I haven’t had the cash to handle it so it’s been like that for over a year now….

Second issue: a few months ago the coolant light came on. Took it into the shop and they said the floater that tells you the level of the coolant is cracked and sunk to the bottom.

third issue: about 3 days ago my car started overheating…. Once it starts getting too hot the ac stops blowing cold air. Seems to happen more often when the engine is idling. The fan still blows air and it’s cold sometimes and warm sometimes - all within the same trip.

when the engine starts to overheat sometimes it starts to cool down a little during the trip as well so it’s not just getting constantly hot the whole time…

the coolant is full. I changed the thermostat today (what a pain in the ass) and im still having the same issue.

so I bought the following items and im just waiting for them to arrive and im going to change all of these things:
Exhaust manifold
Exhaust manifold gasket
Water pump
New coolant reservoir
Airbag impact sensor (I got into a little fender bender and my airbag light has been on)..

im hoping that changing all of this will finally have my car running properly….but I was wondering if anyone has any idea why my car is overheating…only check engine light code I seem to have is for a lean air mixture which I assume is from the cracked exhaust manifold.

any help/advice is very much appreciated…I know I waited far too long to address some of these issues, please don’t be too hard on me lol.
You guys/girls have a lot more experience than I do so I trust your judgement more than mine.
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Just a note, if the water pump is stock, it will fail you at some point. Not saying change it now, but always keep money lying around totaling the amount of a waterpump and some gaskets. It’ll save you part of the headache to just be ready for that.

as far as anything else, some of the more experienced guys here will be better able to diagnose your car. The pump/air bubble/chain replacement job is all I’m familiar with so far.
I appreciate this. I’ll keep it in mind for sure. That was the plan at first…but after dumping $1300 in parts alone I’m dying to save where I can for now. My wallet hurts :’)
Have you checked to see if your engine cooling fan is working? It should operate when the coolant temperature gets above 220F, or when the AC is on and operating.

The Cooling Fan Module is the most common failure, and it is fairly rare that the fan itself fails.
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You might be getting ahead of yourself. Or did I miss where you confirmed your radiator is free of blockage/dirt/grime/leaves and you have the lower air dam properly in place (a rubbery plastic "lip" below the front bumper spanning only the central 1/3 of the car)?
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Have you checked to see if your engine cooling fan is working? It should operate when the coolant temperature gets above 220F, or when the AC is on and operating.

The Cooling Fan Module is the most common failure, and it is fairly rare that the fan itself fails.

I'm glad you asked this. I just went out and turned on my car until the engine got to 240F and can confirm that the radiator fan did NOT turn on. which is good news? at least I have a better idea of what's happening. Also the fan wouldn't turn even when I tried to move it with my hand. Is it normally difficult to move by hand when the engine isn't running?
either way the radiator fan for sure is not moving at all when the temp is getting high.

You might be getting ahead of yourself. Or did I miss where you confirmed your radiator is free of blockage/dirt/grime/leaves and you have the lower air dam properly in place (a rubbery plastic "lip" below the front bumper spanning only the central 1/3 of the car)?
I was indeed getting ahead of myself admittedly. Apologies, I work 12 hour shifts at Tesla and my time gets unmanageable sometimes to the point where I get ahead of myself. As far as I could tell, everything was free of any hazards and seemed clear without taking anything apart to check.
The good news is...I finally know where my radiator is lol...I imagine I made a lot of people facepalm by asking that earlier. I also feel like I pinpointed the problem a lot more so that should make things easier, right?



So with the fan not moving I think it's safe to say I need a new module (which is good because I already ordered it). I haven't ordered the whole fan yet though which is probably good considering JohnWR said it's rare it's the fan itself. However when I tried to move the fan blades with my hand they didn't budge at all.. which leads me to believe I either need to change the whole fan or the blades just simply don't move that easily unless the module tells the fan to move?

Thanks again for the speedy replies guys. and thank you JohnWR for mentioning to actually check the radiator fan....should've been an obvious thing to check but didn't cross my mind until he said that so much appreciated.
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This is valuable information you brought forward. A stuck fan is no good and it isn't a sign of a damaged controller. It is a sign of a damaged fan. It should move freely! Since it is stuck I'd try to have a look for debris or other material that may be lodged between a blade and the fan "housing perimeter". If you don't find anything, well then there's the cause of your overheating -- you have a seized fan. Well, something else (such as the controller) might be needing fixed too but I'd start with the fan.
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This is valuable information you brought forward. A stuck fan is no good and it isn't a sign of a damaged controller. It is a sign of a damaged fan. It should move freely! Since it is stuck I'd try to have a look for debris or other material that may be lodged between a blade and the fan "housing perimeter". If you don't find anything, well then there's the cause of your overheating -- you have a seized fan. Well, something else (such as the controller) might be needing fixed too but I'd start with the fan.

I just went outside and double checked... I pulled on the blades as best as I could and checked them...no budge. I actually broke one of the blades from pulling on it so hard just to make sure. But yeah, no cigar. So I definitely need a new fan. Thank you for confirming that.
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We did a club members water pump a couple of years ago. We did it without removing the turbo and manifold because my experience has been that when you start pulling parts that are working well, you inevitably end up with creating problems.

My recollection is it took us around 7 hours. We had the quick jack so we could work on it from the top and the bottom which was helpful. We ended up putting the pump in as two halves so it fit into the space, then bolted it together in place. The rear water tube bolt was by far the most challenging. It took us a lot of time to get it out and then back into place.

And this was the first time we used the waterpump tool and I will admit I was nervous when we installed it because the consequences are great and there is really not much room to access the bolts. We used grease to hold the bolts in place while we maneuvered it into position then tightened it.

The outcome was good and I would not hesitate to do it again but its not something that I would ever do unless I had to.(4) Punisher | Page 128 | Pontiac Solstice Forum
I just looked at the post you linked in your comment...you have some sexy cars dude o;
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So, it would good for you to research how to change the fan. I've never done it but others such as @HHGadget (when he i stalled a Howe radiator) and @rob the elder have done it and posted about it here. Give the forum a search and you'll find it.
Oh and don't drive the car with a broken fan blade. If somehow the fan decides to spin it will thrash around out of balance without one blade and might cause damage to other components!
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I just went outside and double checked... I pulled on the blades as best as I could and checked them...no budge. I actually broke one of the blades from pulling on it so hard just to make sure. But yeah, no cigar. So I definitely need a new fan. Thank you for confirming that.
The complete fan you posted may come with the control module. It would at least be worth checking with the seller before you buy a separate one.
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Just a note, if the water pump is stock, it will fail you at some point. Not saying change it now, but always keep money lying around totaling the amount of a waterpump and some gaskets. It’ll save you part of the headache to just be ready for that.

as far as anything else, some of the more experienced guys here will be better able to diagnose your car. The pump/air bubble/chain replacement job is all I’m familiar with so far.
I've actually have a NOS water pump in a box on the shelf. The NA was changed out last year and I don't know if the GXP was done by the previous owner.
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So, it would good for you to research how to change the fan. I've never done it but others such as @HHGadget (when he i stalled a Howe radiator) and @rob the elder have done it and posted about it here. Give the forum a search and you'll find it.
definitely. I stumbled upon this video yesterday. Seems pretty straightforward and hopefully easy. I’ve taken off the innercooler several times so taking off all the pipes isn’t anything new.



The complete fan you posted may come with the control module. It would at least be worth checking with the seller before you buy a separate one.
luckily it’s from Amazon so I can always run toWhole Foods for a quick refund if it has it. Hopefully it does, I could use that money.


I've actually have a NOS water pump in a box on the shelf. The NA was changed out last year and I don't know if the GXP was done by the previous owner.
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And I just bought this module to go with it:
GM Genuine Parts 25845280 Engine Cooling Fan Module https://a.co/d/iDyld4d
My understanding is that a fan controller from the Crown Vic will work and is much cheaper. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
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My understanding is that a fan controller from the Crown Vic will work and is much cheaper. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
I believe you are correct.
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My understanding is that a fan controller from the Crown Vic will work and is much cheaper. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Yeah I had looked into that. I think the reason I decided to not go that route was because I was worried it wouldn't get here fast enough. Any that I did find that would get here in time seemed to have rough reviews. I found that one on amazon and I knew they'd get it to me on time so figured they were the safest bet. Definitely need to get this fan replaced sooner than later before I cause FAR worse issues than I already have.
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As John said, if you buy that fan assembly you posted, it comes with a fan controller module (you can actually see it on the second pic on that page). You should return the separate controller you bought to Amazon for refund.

Automotive lighting Audio equipment Font Gadget Output device
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Ugh I’m a fucking idiot. So the fan is working…it was the plastic cover I was pulling on that I thought was the fan….
So where do I go from here? Is it worth changing the module?…do I try to do the air bubble thing with the coolant lines?
Please give me some advice on where to start…
If the fan is operating you do not need the control module.
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Come on,don't tbe so hard on yourself. Can you elaborate more? Does your fan spin freely when you turn it then? With engine on did the fan turn on?
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