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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well nuts...

Driving home from church today in the coupe and
tried to turn the car off.

Nope...

The key will not turn off ( counter clockwise ).

Called Onstar - they told me that they could not turn the car off.

I played with the shift level ( automatic ):
park , neutral , etc. Nothing... The key refuses to turn counter clockwise to stop the car.

Finally, we pulled the fuse to the fuel pump to stop the engine. But all
of the electronics of the car are still on.

...going to have to run a battery tender overnight before we can
drop it off at the dealer...

geez... two weeks before Nationals in the Poconos...
 

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Just undo the main bolt for the battery connection to the underhood fusebox (under the red plastic cover). Easy to get to and to do. 10mm I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just undo the main bolt for the battery connection to the underhood fusebox (under the red plastic cover). Easy to get to and to do. 10mm I think.
thanks - I did this... it was 13mm...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The car is at the dealer now.
Looks like the blue coupe will miss the Poconos.
I got 10 days before I go... Might Lady Luck smile upon me ?

I received a loaner to drive around town.
 

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I have not looked at the drawings in a while, but my recollection is that the lock sits in front of the switch. The key matches up with the guts of the lock which allows it to turn. The lock is in turn what moves the ignition switch to the proper position. Since both are separately replacable, theoretically you could pull the mechanism apart, remove the lock and control the car start, run and off function by rotating the switch. Anyone have an opinion?

According to the drawings, the lock is a unit and the switch is a separate unit. You could pull the lock and activate the switch by separate means.
 

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First of all, when my car did this same thing last year, all I did was remove the fuse for the IGNITION in the fuse box location, no need to disconnect the battery.

Second, since we ALL have the factory recall notice for the faulty ignition, just kill 2 birds with one stone and have the entire ignition replaced with the new one that is supposed to be available now. You will get 2 new cut keys also.

The key getting stuck as we all have mentioned on another thread is because the tumblers get stuck inside. DO NOT LET THEM CHARGE YOU for a new ignition REPAIR! since the ignition needs to be replaced under the new recall anyway.
 

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Good input.

My suggestion was related to him wanting to go to the Nationals. It is possible that the dealer will not want to repair the lock now and then repair the switch later.

Actually, Nalley lists the replacement lock for ~$90


You could swap the failed lock out for the new one yourself if you are handy.




Stock Code:

25848845

Price:
$ 82.89

Categories:

Electronics, Charging, Wiring and ignition > ignition
Assemblies:

KEY & LOCK CYLINDERS; KEY & LOCK CYLINDERS/ignition; STEERING COLUMN PART 2; STEERING COLUMN PART 2 COVER & SWITCHES; STEERING COLUMN PART 2 COVERS & SWITCHES
 

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Here is a thread I read on the other forum.

This confirms that the lock is separate from the switch and you could swap out just the lock without having to have the switch touched. if you can find an ignition switch you can swap the bad one out for a good one and be back on the road without waiting for the recall. Waiting is clearly better but just in case


THE Definitive Ignition Switch Recall Thread- Just the facts, Ma'am. - Saturn Sky Forums: Saturn Sky Forum
So you just ignore my post? Really?

:devil:
 

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OK.........that was interesting but......the ignition switch I thought was the topic .
Duke Nukum ....really? How about Johnny Bravo and the ignition switch?
 
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