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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I figured I'd start this thread to let everyone know how my mirror replacement was going. I received the Gentex mirror on Monday.
(Compass, temp, home link garage door control & map light.) I got as far as removing the windshield trim tonight. I also removed the OEM mirror (made by Donnelly). My next step is to figure out the wiring going to the mirror. One note .. with the new mirror there is only one map light.... Oh well.

I'll take photos in the morning to show the progress.
 

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I definately want one of those :yesnod:

Please keep us posted!
 

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:agree: This will be a great thread on a needed improvement. Thanks !
 

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Very cool. That's one thing I miss that was on my last car. I wonder if a Donnelly might fit the wiring harness/connector with out any mods? Can't wait to see the pics... Thanks, Loft_guy
 

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package said:
I figured I'd start this thread to let everyone know how my mirror replacement was going. I received the Gentex mirror on Monday.
(Compass, temp, home link garage door control & map light.) I got as far as removing the windshield trim tonight. I also removed the OEM mirror (made by Donnelly). My next step is to figure out the wiring going to the mirror. One note .. with the new mirror there is only one map light.... Oh well.

I'll take photos in the morning to show the progress.
:lurk: Should be interesting ... :lurk:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Mirror Update.

Well the mirror is mounted and the wires are "kind of" run. I ran them down the driver's side. There is a piece of foam at the bottom of the windshield frame that I guess keeps down the rattling. I put the trim back on to go to work... Tomorrow I'll pull the trim back off and try to document the steps needed to install the mirror. The OEM mirror has 3 contacts that I'm still trying to figure out. I had originally thought about just splicing in to them, but the new mirror comes with two fuses that I'll want access to. My current plan is to make them available behind the panel on the far side of the dash.

Honest.. I"ll have photos tomorrow!!!
 

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package said:
Well the mirror is mounted and the wires are "kind of" run. I ran them down the driver's side. There is a piece of foam at the bottom of the windshield frame that I guess keeps down the rattling. I put the trim back on to go to work... Tomorrow I'll pull the trim back off and try to document the steps needed to install the mirror. The OEM mirror has 3 contacts that I'm still trying to figure out. I had originally thought about just splicing in to them, but the new mirror comes with two fuses that I'll want access to. My current plan is to make them available behind the panel on the far side of the dash.

Honest.. I"ll have photos tomorrow!!!

Sounds like a great idea! Curious to see how it turns out. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The Mirror is done!!

The mirror is done.... I was going to post photos as attachments, but I don't have that option available.

I've put them over on Putfile....


http://www.putfile.com/package


Full description of how I did it is coming.
 

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Great Job!!

Seriously, how much work was this (hours), and did everything you removed on the car to run the wires go back on easily and with nothing unaligned??

On a different note, it looks like your Spartans took it on the chin yesterday!!

Hook em', Horns!!

- bspate -
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah..well.. I was at the game.... at least the tailgate was fun.

The hardest part of the whole deal was figuring out the wiring. I ended up putting taps on various wires until i figured out which was which.

I needed the following wires...

12 volt switched..(took it from yellow wire on ignition
12 volt unswitched (red wire on ignition)
ground (from mirror harness ground -- black wire)
Dome light circuit (from mirror harness grey wire)

I removed the following components.
both visors (torx)
foot rest
panel below wheel
steel plate behind panel
bottom 1/2 of plastic cover on ignition.

If I did the job again knowing what I know I think it can be done in 2-3 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Mirror prices

I bought the mirror from JP customs.. 281 533 9900.

I'd consider two models... I got the 50 GENK-60 which has one map light, home link, compass and temp.

The 50 GENK-30 is the same without the home link. (Home link replaces the garage door opener. )

50-GENK60 $349
50-genk30 $219
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Here's the web page for the mirrors..

http://www.jpcustoms.com/store/customer/home.php?cat=259


The OEM mirror was by Magna-Donnelly. They also offer self dimming mirrors with map lights, compass, and temp. Gentex puts the display in the mirror proper. Donnelly puts it in the button area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
TOY4TWO said:
COOL!!!

Does it have auto diming as well?

Yes it does....
 

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How much bigger is your new mirror vs. your old one? I like the low-profile mirror, and this one's a tad larger. How much larger exactly?

And... I believe this will be a popular modification... and it should be entombed in your name... so you should write step-by-step instructions!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Fortimir said:
How much bigger is your new mirror vs. your old one? I like the low-profile mirror, and this one's a tad larger. How much larger exactly?

And... I believe this will be a popular modification... and it should be entombed in your name... so you should write step-by-step instructions!

I really didn't notice a big difference in size.. I"ll put them face to face tonite and get some measurements....
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The Mirror Diary!!

Mirror Replacement. Gentex model #50-GENK60
This is best done with the top down.

DISCLAIMER:

The process below is what worked for me. Since I do not know if Pontiac used the same wiring configuration and mirror for all cars, I caution you to check everything TWICE before proceeding. This is merely a description of the steps I went through to install the mirror and should not be construed as the proper or only method to install the mirror. In short.. DON’T SUE ME if it doesn’t work… I'm only telling you what worked for me.

WHAT I DID
Rotate mirror and unplug wire. There is a locking tab that needs to be pressed.
Use a Torx driver and remove the screw on mount. Remove the mirror.
Remove both Visors using a Torx bit.
Pull on middle trim piece with fingers. Insert flat blade screw driver to release four (4) metal locking tabs.
Use screw driver to disengage left trim piece from middle trim piece. At this point you should be able to remove the middle piece.
Disconnect tweeter plug located inside left trim piece. Set all parts aside.
With driver door open, gently pry open panel on left side of dash. Remove panel
Mount new mirror. Attach new wiring harness to old harness. Fold back old harness to get it out of the way. The connector used by Gentex is quite large. be sure it will fit under the trim piece when you close everything up again. (leave some slack to smoosh it into place) Pieces of foam will also help eliminate any rattling.

There are two fuses incorporated in the new mirror. One is for constant power and the other is for the map light. I chose to locate these behind the panel that I just removed. I then routed three wires back up to the existing harness for the tie in to existing circuits.

Accessing the Ignition switch.
Remove the plastic panel under the wheel (two bolts and two clips) Remove steel plate under wheel. 4 bolts) you can fold it down then. Remove the three screws under the wheel that secure the housing around the wiper/turn signal/ ignition. Carefully pry these pieces apart to get access to the switch. Unplug the wire at the rear of the switch.. In my case it was a green plug with a small latch that you need to press to get the wires free. I believe there were 5 wires on the switch.. I used the yellow and red ones only. To test the wires I used some scotch lock splices (no cutting needed). Put about 2 feet of wire into the Scotchlok splices. (I used red/black 12 volt wire from Radio Shack).

This is a good time to double check your work. The red wire on the switch shoule be 12 vold constant. The yellow wire should be 12 volt switched. Simply put the plug back in the ignition switch and check voltages at the end of the wires. Once you’re satisfied, route the wires out through the side of the opening you revealed when you removed the plastic plate on the left side of the instrument panel

Temp probe: I located the connector for the temp probe behind this same panel. The wiring for the probe isn’t very long. I ran the probe in through one of the slots for the AC coil on the passenger side.

With the hood open find a direct route for the probe wiring just to the left of the power brake air tank. On my car there was a piece of aluminum tape covering a plastic plug. Carefully peel back the tape and use a screw driver to remove the plug. Get a grommet of the proper size and slit it to run the probe wires through it.
You will need to remove the left foot rest and pull back the carpet and foam padding. This will give access to the hole you just made. Pull the probe through it, bringing in as much wire as you can. I didn’t need to cut the wires and put in a splice.
Bring the probe wire along the top of the foam backing and replace the foot rest. You may want to cut in a small slot for the wire. Bring it up through the opening you made when you removed the side plate and connect the probe to the harness.
Reseal the tape. I also used some silicone to further seal the opening. The rubber grommet should also be seated in the opening to prevent any wire chafing. The silicone appears to have made everything leak free. This will be the only penetration you need to make in the car.

At this point everything should be wired. You should have hooked up the red and yellow wires to 12 volts, the brown wire to the dome circuit, and the black wire to ground. You should have also hooked up the plug containing the two green temp probe wires. Turn on the ignition and check the circuit. You won’t need to start the car. The map light should be working as well as a green light on the mirror and the temp and heading in the display screen. If all is well, then stuff the wires back in the side panel. Wire tie the new harness to the old harness, and close everything up. Go out and enjoy your new mirror!

I also got the model 50-GENK-60 mirror which had home link. Programming it was just a matter of following the instructions on the mirror hang tag. I no longer carry a garage door opener with me!!!


Wiring recap --harness wires then wires I connected to:
black – ground ( I used the black mirror ground wire, but you can attach to metal screw that goes to body ground.)
Brown -- dome light circuit. Goes to grey wire from old mirror harness
Yellow – constant power goes to Red wire on ignition switch
Red – switched power.. goes to Yellow wire on ignition switch.
Twin green wires – go to temp probe.
 
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