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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I have pretty much read every single post on here about installing the footwell lights and I seen the diagrams to do it. But I am extremely confused with what wires I use to tap into the ground and positive. Do I need to buy wires to run these leds from the passenger fuse box to the drive side? I also will be buying the Mini Fuse link but I really don't know how to do this wiring. If someone can respond with a picture of some sort I would be super happy!!:)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys, but my question is do I need any additional wires to do this? I bought the leds and have to buy the fuse link mini.
 

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Thanks guys, but my question is do I need any additional wires to do this? I bought the leds and have to buy the fuse link mini.
Not for the close one on the passenger side probably(at least my Autozone Alpena strip didn't) the other side needed an extension for me. So it depends on what kit you bought then.

Did you open the package and see how long the leads are? Stretch them out and see, or measure the leads and compare that to where you want to mount them. It also depends a bit on how you route them. My step by step shows the fish tape I used, but a coat hanger could work too probably.


It's always a good idea to have some extra wire on hand (ex red and black) and some crimp connectors or solder and shrink. IMO

You'll do fine. Do you have some basic tools like a circuit test probe light (not a must have for this mod), crimp tool, electrical tape?


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Discussion Starter #9
google works wonders looks like ill be getting some #18 gauge wire from Radio Shack and dive into this project tomorrow.
 

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If you have WR door sills, just tap into those. That's all I'm going to do. No need to run additional wire that way. Otherwise you will have to run additional wire to the driver's side.
 

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I have been wanting to do this as well, but would like the lights to remain lit, more like the ambient lighting in some cars. I would go with red so it won't be too distracting at night and would rather not run them at full power to avoid being too bright. Has anyone done something like this?
 

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I have been wanting to do this as well, but would like the lights to remain lit, more like the ambient lighting in some cars. I would go with red so it won't be too distracting at night and would rather not run them at full power to avoid being too bright. Has anyone done something like this?
You would have to use some sort of a resistor.... I would suggest "double wiring" the positive. One through the resistor, one around resistor somehow. That would be the only way to give you a low ambient light and a full light when the doors are open.
 

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I have been wanting to do this as well, but would like the lights to remain lit, more like the ambient lighting in some cars. I would go with red so it won't be too distracting at night and would rather not run them at full power to avoid being too bright. Has anyone done something like this?
I have not seen a post of one done but it was brought up on my link above somewhat after my step by step post. If I remember correctly even Tomato Soup chimed in giving it instant credibility. Anyway the thing that sucks about our cars is there is no way to just turn on the interior lights while running because GM designed only map lights and figured the switch and that would suffice. But I know what you are wanting is just a bit different so here's what you could do:

Do the install per my or the fantastic SlyBobs post with a larger amount of LED (or not if you don't want the brighter exit/enter lights); then install a second much smaller set to any hot lead from the fuse box or hot lead and any Chassis ground (not the grey wire mentioned in our posts, as that's what makes it dim ala theater style) then they would be on all the time. Conversely you could also try to identify a lead that is hot only when the instrument panel or full headlights are on (not DRL) then they would just be on in night conditions only.

If you do this consider a "how to" post with pics and Good Luck!

Edit: (or what Ghost says as we posted about the same time)


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:agree::agree::agree:

However, too little current will not light the LEDs at all. So do some research before trying it with LEDs. I know my WR with the 9v option won't light at all if the voltage on the battery drops below 8.75volts. Which means even a "brand new" 9v might not light my white LEDs in my WR!!! So I'm going to just hard wire the 9v option on my WR... :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:
 

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I have been wanting to do this as well, but would like the lights to remain lit, more like the ambient lighting in some cars. I would go with red so it won't be too distracting at night and would rather not run them at full power to avoid being too bright. Has anyone done something like this?
Actually, becuase the map light ground never shuts fully 'off', the LEDs do stay on (but very dimly) all the time. Mine are on enough to just see your feet when it's pitch black outside... probably not bright enough for your ambient wants though.

If you want to do the ambient + high-bright-door-open lighting, you'd need to use separate LEDs as GODROD said. You can't use the same ones since they are ground-switched. Even if you used a second diode+resistor to ground, they'd be on 'ambient' ALL the time, even with ignition off.
 
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