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Ok, so ive searched and read a few threads on how hard it is to take the intake off. Im going to be installing a stage 3 snow meth kit and im about to order the spacers from werks to install while I have it apart anyways. Everything is going to be cleaned really well and im going to try and install the meth kit so that people wont be able to see any of its components. Does anyone have any tips or pointers that will make this job go a little smoother on my first time at taking this side apart? Diagrams would be helpful, im a very mechanically inclined person, but it never hurts to get advice from others that have done it before.
 

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It not hard at all. The part that gets in the way is the shield around the high pressure pump. Then the wirering harness near the throttle body can be a bit cumbersome. I had mine off about 5 times. I'm getting ready to order the intake from WERKS. If you have any question just PM me.
John
 

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To remove the intake.
1. You will need to remove the intake charge tube from the elbow going to the throttle body.
2. Remove the vacuum line from manifold going to the brake booster.
3. Disconnect and remove purge valve. Plus unplug the Mass airflow sensor.
4. There's is if I remember correctly there are 3 bolt on the lower front side of intake. These are the dipstick tube and brace bolts.
5. Disconnect the fuel line and move the check valve over to the overflow tank. Lay several rags to catch residual gas.
6. Remove the solenoid with the 3 vacuum lines on it and lay it to the side.
7. Remove all the bolts in the intake.
8. As you pull the intake out, you will have to disconnect the wirering harness to the throttle body.
9. Reverse proccess and you are good to go.

I believe I got everything down. Once again if you got a problem, just PM me.
Note. You do not have to unhook the coolant line going to surge tank.
John
 

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wow, that was easy! turned out to be about a 45 minute project for me. im surprised at how clean my runners are. no oil residue at all! gonna have this intake manifold powder coated satin black while its off and waiting for the spacers to get to me.
 

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Glad I could help.
 

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To remove the intake.
1. You will need to remove the intake charge tube from the elbow going to the throttle body.
2. Remove the vacuum line from manifold going to the brake booster.
3. Disconnect and remove purge valve. Plus unplug the Mass airflow sensor.
4. There's is if I remember correctly there are 3 bolt on the lower front side of intake. These are the dipstick tube and brace bolts.
5. Disconnect the fuel line and move the check valve over to the overflow tank. Lay several rags to catch residual gas.
6. Remove the solenoid with the 3 vacuum lines on it and lay it to the side.
7. Remove all the bolts in the intake.
8. As you pull the intake out, you will have to disconnect the wirering harness to the throttle body.
9. Reverse proccess and you are good to go.

I believe I got everything down. Once again if you got a problem, just PM me.
Note. You do not have to unhook the coolant line going to surge tank.
John

I'm trying to remove my intake manifold to inspect and probably clean the intake valves. I can't seem to pull the manifold back far enough to remove it away from the top right "Bolt stud/pin". I have pushed the main wiring harness down and out of the way but for the life of me i can't get it off. Seems that there is something under the right side holding it back. I have removed the throttle body clamp and pushed the hose down so its not that. Anyone have any ideas? Appreciate it. Thanks, Wade
 

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The oil dipstick tube is bolted to the manifold also. Might want to check you got it unbolted. On the firewall side of the manifold there is a brace that helps hold it up or something. Kinda hard to see but it goes from the manifold down to the engine block. Be sure its unbolted. Also I found removing the studs from the head helped me get it in and out easier. You can use a small socket on the end of the studs to get them out easily. I don't remember the size exactly but it was pretty small. 4 or 5 mm maybe.
 

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The oil dipstick tube is bolted to the manifold also. Might want to check you got it unbolted. On the firewall side of the manifold there is a brace that helps hold it up or something. Kinda hard to see but it goes from the manifold down to the engine block. Be sure its unbolted. Also I found removing the studs from the head helped me get it in and out easier. You can use a small socket on the end of the studs to get them out easily. I don't remember the size exactly but it was pretty small. 4 or 5 mm maybe.
Thanks Kappa, I removed teh dip stick bolts, and the brace thats on the right side, a brace that goes to the engine block? now that I have not found! I will attempt to remove the pin studs on top to make it easier. I had saw a video on youtube, where a guy stripped his so I am hesitant to try this methos. Ill post if I get it off. But its taking me longer than normal lol!
 

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Thanks Kappa, I removed teh dip stick bolts, and the brace thats on the right side, a brace that goes to the engine block? now that I have not found! I will attempt to remove the pin studs on top to make it easier. I had saw a video on youtube, where a guy stripped his so I am hesitant to try this methos. Ill post if I get it off. But its taking me longer than normal lol!
I took my manifold off last week, it had pools of oil in it. I pick up my rebuilt turbo tomorrow.
 

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I found the illusive hold up, a bolt under the PCV line, didn't see it. Took the two pin studs out and with some effort, it came out. I lifted the right side out first, its tight coming up against the fuel pump mount. Took a look at the valves, they aren't as bad as I thought. I'll clean them up. Still wondering if I should use the walnut or just use the CNC Valve Cleaner foam. Its not much, I'm thinking for the mess the walnut might create, it might be easier to do just the chemical clean. I'll do one and se how it goes. More to follow.
 

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:lurk: Pictures to follow, too, I hope.
I can, just wondering, I haven't posted DIY in awhile, but what photo hosting sight are people using these days, my previous posted images are on Photobucket, there's issues there for sure.
 

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You can post them direct on the forum now - even free members

Just click on "Go Advanced" then scroll down and click the "Manage Attachments" button and upload.
 

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Awesome, I'll do that. BTW, how do I know that the valves are closed? I have plastic everywhere and now I am looking down the intake hole at the valves, but difficult to determine when the valves are closed. I have the rear wheels off the ground so I can rotate the engine. very easy to do!
 

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Okay guys, I have resized my photos to under 2500x2500, mine are actual 2500x1848, at 72 dpi, and I still can't upload them, am I missing something??
 

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That's still very big for a web page. Not sure if that's your issue, but I wouldn't size them at more than 1200 on the long side.

But what error are you getting?
 

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So here are some pics. Pretty successful. I've touched them up a bit more, I only had 8 lbs of shells, but that was more than enough to blast everything clean. For the most part, a very clean operation. The messiest I got was when I spilled the bloody shells on the floor trying to reload the gun!
 

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Thanks Soup for your assistance, got everything working.
Anyone have the torque specs for the intake manifold? I know I saw them here somewhere but can't find them, maybe over on the Sky forums. I find more assistance on the Solstice site :wink:
 

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Ha Ha, found them, Soup to the rescue again!!

Off the Sky forum from Soup,
For an LNF (turbo) engine:

Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head Bolt 22 N.m 16 lb ft
Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head Nut 22 N.m 16 lb ft
Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head Stud 6 N.m 53 lb in
 
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