[Classicbiker]

Hello,
I'm Steven and I've been lurking here on your forum for awhile now, learning all I can about my 2006 Solstice which I bought about two years ago with 64,784 miles on it. Since buying I have treated it to a new paint job straight away, new tires, regular oil changes, the airbag recall, and never driving it when there is any chance of road salt. The other day I decided that it was time to change the air filter. I figured the dealer most likely changed that as a matter of course during the inspection before I took possession, I was right the filter was clean. But as I had already purchased the new one I swapped it out. No problem. That was last night. Driving to work this morning all was good. On the drive home I noticed the check engine light was illuminated. While driving I pondered the problem and decided that I had probably upset the connection to the MAF. I checked this when I got home. But all looked good. Off to Advanced Auto to let them read the code and tell me what was up. Sure enough P0102 the MAF was having a moment. So I purchased a new one and installed. Still had the check engine light on. So I checked around on the internet and learned the code needed to be cleared. The suggested remedy I first found on this forum was drive it around. Well that didn't work, so back to Advanced to see check engine light was caused by the same code, it was, or a new one. So the counterman allowed me to clear the code with his OBDII reader. Problem solved or so I thought. I purchased the same OBDII the counterman had just in case. Anyway, I checked for leaks in the system and cracked hoses and everything seems fine. I cleared the error code again and went for a ten minute drive. Got home, shut the car off, waited a minute and restarted. Check engine light came on OBDII says it is P0102. I have done my due diligence and searched the forum for this error code. Two threads looked promising. One was merely the original posters question with no answer about the code. The other outlined the logic that causes the ECM to throw this error code, while it was interesting to read I have no method of checking the inputs to the ECM to see all is well. So before I admit defeat and drop the Solstice at my local Chevy dealer, who I have faith in, any suggestions as to the cause and cure for my dilemma? As the error occurred after changing the air filter which was rather clean I will try the obvious and swap it back as I still have it to make sure that the new filter is not overly restrictive. I have also checked that nothing foreign has blocked the air intakes.
All help/suggestions gratefully appreciated.
Steven

 

[MomsSol]

After I replaced my MAF sensor it took about 5 times for the code to finally clear. Haven't had a recurrence in a year.

 

[JohnWR]

P0102 is mainly a hardware code, and not an engine performance code. It says that the sensor signal is too low, which could be a bad sensor, an open or shorted circuit, or even a loose connector, but it can also result from a major vacuum leak.

I suspect that you damaged or dislodged something when you opened the breather. Check the wiring for shorts, cuts, abrasions, and make sure it isn't pinched by something. Also check for vacuum hoses that may not be connected. Basically check everything that you touched or got close to.

It should not be filter or intake related.

The code will clear itself after three ignition cycles if the problem no longer exists, which is consistent with MomsSols experience.

 

[rob the elder]

I don't remember, does the NA have the same potential for the PCV hose nipple breaking off when lifting the top of the air box?

 

[JohnWR]

I think the nipple breakage is a turbo issue. I can't think of an instance on an NA.

 

[TomatoSoup]

I don't remember, does the NA have the same potential for the PCV hose nipple breaking off when lifting the top of the air box?

My thought exactly, Rob!

 

[JohnWR]

I don't remember, does the NA have the same potential for the PCV hose nipple breaking off when lifting the top of the air box?

My thought exactly, Rob!

I think this suggestion might cover the possibility, although I still do not think it applies here:

Also check for vacuum hoses that may not be connected.

 

[rob the elder]

I have actually taken to carrying an OBD box in both the Sol and the Sky. The Sky has been dropping codes for over a year. Last year it would show ABS failure, TC failure and turn them off. I had this happen several times until we changed the brake fluid and that particular set of faults no longer randomly showed up. This year, on our latest cruise it showed NO code but went into limp mode light, limiting boost to 6 pounds. It happened once but stayed on through a restart. I cleared the code using the box and it has not reoccurred in several cycles since then.

Not sure what is going on but as the cars age, with their complex control systems issues are bound to crop up from time to time. Still runs great just has some occasional codes.

 

[Classicbiker]

Okay so here is where I am at now in this little saga. I found a site that explained which wire going into the MAF does what. https://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/3.5L/maf-sensor-tests-1 So I have learned I have good ground and the required 10 - 12 volts going to the MAF. So next step was to inspect the air outlet duct any leaks. I could not find any. So out with the carb cleaner and spray everything with the motor running to see if it has any effect. Nada. Disconnect the hose coming from the valve cover and remove the nipple from air outlet duct and plug it. No positive effect. As I don't have a multimeter that reads Hertz for the next check I will be investing in one. I also took a piece of stainless steel safety wire and a very tiny paint gun cleaning brush and had a brief cleaning session of the pigtail connections. I cleared the error codes last night and called it a day. This morning on the drive in no CEL, but I didn't expect to see one on the drive in, only on the drive home. Regardless of getting on or not I will invest in a Hertz reading multimeter. If I get an error and I find that MAF signal doesn't rise and fall smoothly I will splice in a new pigtail as I am beginning to believe female connections within the pigtail are not making proper contact.
I will update as I find out more.
Steven

 

[easyryderca]

Welcome Steven & thanks for sharing your issue with the solstice as its a learning curve for me .

 

[Classicbiker]

Here an update to my continuing saga. I wasn't satisfied that I was getting good info about the 10-12 volts going to the sensor. So I soldered some jumper leads onto the old sensor and pushed the jumper leads into the plug. Taking the new multimeter that reads Hz. I cleared the error, started the car and allowed it to warm up to operating temperature. Then began checking everything again. I had good ground. I had 12 volts. The Hz reading went up as the revs rose and dropped back down with the drop in revs. Well I thought I had it all solved as I shut the car down and started it up and no check engine light. So I did it again and lo and be hold the CEL was lit. So I used the OBD to see what was up. Everything was up. My original problem had been joined by a whole host of issues. Well looking at them I decided that in my probing I had shorted. So back I went looking for voltage at the MAF and had none, now. Reading what fuse did what in the fuse box lid I found that power to the MAF originates at fuse #33. I figured that out by pulling the fuses whose descriptions looked like they might supply power. When I pulled #33 is was blown. But still no power. So I carefully slit the wiring harness open and follower the wire. From CARFAX I know the car had had a front end collision with a previous owner. Sure enough I found a power feed to the MAF a bit dodgy, the wire was half cut through and folded back on itself. Not a good sign. So I cut, stripped, and tinned the ends and soldered them into a new butt connector and insulated with shrink tube. Power restored. But I still have the error. So now I'm thinking either the plug end is not making proper connection to the MAF or I managed to purchase a bad MAF. As I have already purchased a new pig tail with connector, I will cut out the old connector and solder in a the new one. If that doesn't cure the problem I will purchase another MAF from a different source.
Steven