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Discussion Starter #1
I'm new to the forum so forgive me if I'm posting this thread in the wrong spot.
I have a '07 GXP, and a few months ago my check engine light came on, ran it through the OBD and the code came back for the camshaft position sensor. I did like normal and started replacing fuses and relays first seeing if that would clear things up. I cleared the code and it went away for a short while; only a couple of days, then the light comes back on. I ran the OBD again, same code.
While checking a few things under the hood, I also noticed that there's a complete break in my intake tube. A flex line leading from the engine to that intake is completely split. This, I noticed, has cut a lot from my turbo.
The only reason I found this broken piece is because while my check engine light remains on, every OBD that's plugged in gives back no codes anymore, even though I have not replaced the camshaft position sensor (this part is ordered and I'm just waiting on delivery). After the check engine is cleared, it keeps coming back and still gives no codes. Nothing wrong. Could this broken intake piece be causing the check engine to pop up?
 

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Yes
It sounds like the PCV hose nipple is broken. It’s on the intake tube near the air filter. When the filter is changed it’s easy to break this fitting. It is easily repaired with JB Weld. Many of us have used this as a temporary fix. DDM Works and Performance Autowerks have replacement tubes that don’t break.
 

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Still not sure why no codes. Does the code reader turn on when plugged in and come back with "no codes" or does it stay blank?
 

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Still not sure why no codes. Does the code reader turn on when plugged in and come back with "no codes" or does it stay blank?
@BrickyardGXP : I agree that there should be a code if the check engine light is on. I have never seen a case where there hasn't been.

The nipple can be fixed with JBWeld (shudder) but you can also drill both sides of the break with a 1/4" drill bit and insert a short piece of 1/4" copper tubing. The repair is permanent (so far) and nearly invisible.

Camshaft position errors are nearly always caused by problems with the camshaft solenoids. I have not seen a case where it was a fuse or a relay.
 

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Still not sure why no codes. Does the code reader turn on when plugged in and come back with "no codes" or does it stay blank?
If the code reader is staying blank, nothing at all. It could be #29 fuse in the underhood fuse block.
 

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The nipple can be fixed with JBWeld (shudder) but you can also drill both sides of the break with a 1/4" drill bit and insert a short piece of 1/4" copper tubing. The repair is permanent (so far) and nearly invisible.
Hah! Not seen that one before. The equivalent repair that I've seen is to use a (spent) .22 cartridge with the base cut off as the internal reinforcement. Apparently it fits nicely with some epoxy.
 

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Hah! Not seen that one before. The equivalent repair that I've seen is to use a (spent) .22 cartridge with the base cut off as the internal reinforcement. Apparently it fits nicely with some epoxy.
Yep, the existing hole fits the .22 pretty well, but the cartridge case is a little short for my liking. Cutting the rim off is also harder (in my mind) than cutting a piece of tubing. Of course that is probably influenced by the roll of tubing and tubing cutter that I already have....

The plastic is soft, so it stretches when drilled, and then makes a really nice fit with the 1/4" tubing.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes
It sounds like the PCV hose nipple is broken. It’s on the intake tube near the air filter. When the filter is changed it’s easy to break this fitting. It is easily repaired with JB Weld. Many of us have used this as a temporary fix. DDM Works and Performance Autowerks have replacement tubes that don’t break.
Are those replacements available from an auto parts store like AutoZone or advance or do I need to order them? Thank you for the input
 

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Still not sure why no codes. Does the code reader turn on when plugged in and come back with "no codes" or does it stay blank?
The code reader comes on and reads no codes. I've been wrestling with this issue for a bit because at one point it threw up the codes for the ECM. After that it started reading no codes. I've even unhooked the battery for a few hours and the engine light stays off for a bit but pops right back up within 30 minutes, still reading no codes
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The code reader comes on and reads no codes. I've been wrestling with this issue for a bit because at one point it threw up the codes for the ECM. After that it started reading no codes. I've even unhooked the battery for a few hours and the engine light stays off for a bit but pops right back up within 30 minutes, still reading no codes
@BrickyardGXP : I agree that there should be a code if the check engine light is on. I have never seen a case where there hasn't been.

The nipple can be fixed with JBWeld (shudder) but you can also drill both sides of the break with a 1/4" drill bit and insert a short piece of 1/4" copper tubing. The repair is permanent (so far) and nearly invisible.

Camshaft position errors are nearly always caused by problems with the camshaft solenoids. I have not seen a case where it was a fuse or a relay.
That's good to know. At least the sensor wasn't that expensive. I'll look into the solenoids. Thank you for the advice
 

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I believe that this is the replacement part that Rob mentioned. It will not be available to you locally.

Do you have any other problems? What was the ECM code you mentioned in post #9?
I don't remember the exact code. It's the standard ECM error code that can be found in the OBD II catalog. But it was a one off that only occurred briefly. Once we cleared the check engine, and it came back up, it began saying no codes and that's what it has said since. I don't personally have an OBD reader so I can't check it that often. I was using my friend's Bluetooth sensor to check the readings when that code popped up so I was attributing that to it being that cheap device throwing me something wrong.

As for the part, it's now ordered. Thank you for the link. I've been struggling to find the part that's not a part of a cold air intake upgrade that I wasn't that interested in purchasing.

As for other problems, I haven't noticed anything engine wise and I feel as though that might change once I get the new part in the intake, though I'm hoping that's not going to be necessary. As part of my curiosity, I'll likely take it to Advanced tomorrow to see if any changes have occurred recently.

Thank you again. This has already helped me greatly
 

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Please don't think I'm being condescending, but are you sure it's the check engine light and not another warning light?

108815


It'd be the one top near center in the above image.

I'm just baffled as to how you could have a CEL and no code.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No worries. It's not condescending at all. This is our first conversation so it's not a bad question. It is the check engine light.

Also gotta say I like the look of those white gauges.

As a precautionary measure, I'm going to replace that #29 fuse that was mentioned earliertomorrow and have them clear it. See if that does take care of the situation. Worth a shot right?
108817
 

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I did recently learn that some older OBD code readers are powered, the newer ones rely upon power from the diagnostic circuit in the vehicle. So, yes, make sure that fuse is good - that might be why the ready recognizes that it's plugged in, but not getting a code.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I've been so wrapped up in the technical side I forgot one important behavior she experiences during acceleration. If I just drive like a 9-5 Joe, the engine runs normally (turbo issues aside), but if I start to get on it, the engine starts growling low and the check engine light flashes for about 30 seconds after I stop accelerating.

Life being what it is, I did not have the opportunity to get the fuse taken care of today. Gonna have to try again tomorrow for that
 

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.... but if I start to get on it, the engine starts growling low and the check engine light flashes for about 30 seconds after I stop accelerating.........
A flashing check engine light is a warning of imminent engine damage and the owners manual recommends shutting the engine off as soon as it is safe to do so.
 

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I'm new to the forum so forgive me if I'm posting this thread in the wrong spot.
I have a '07 GXP, and a few months ago my check engine light came on, ran it through the OBD and the code came back for the camshaft position sensor. I did like normal and started replacing fuses and relays first seeing if that would clear things up. I cleared the code and it went away for a short while; only a couple of days, then the light comes back on. I ran the OBD again, same code.
While checking a few things under the hood, I also noticed that there's a complete break in my intake tube. A flex line leading from the engine to that intake is completely split. This, I noticed, has cut a lot from my turbo.
The only reason I found this broken piece is because while my check engine light remains on, every OBD that's plugged in gives back no codes anymore, even though I have not replaced the camshaft position sensor (this part is ordered and I'm just waiting on delivery). After the check engine is cleared, it keeps coming back and still gives no codes. Nothing wrong. Could this broken intake piece be causing the check engine to pop up?
Here's two cents more from grandpop07/grandpop09 (I use both) Not sure why you did not get a code, but the loss of turbo boost is likely caused by the broken line/fitting. Since it directly affects the air/fuel ratio - it is creating a 'lean' condition, thus a loss of boost occurs to help prevent engine damage. Repair of the line/fitting should return the engine boost to normal. You may want to look up a discussion that 'we' had early last year regarding loss of boost that was caused by dried o-rings and loss of seal on the intake manifold resulting in the air/fuel ratio going out of the range needed for proper running. Just look up my posts back in that time frame. Others on here will likely remember that discussion as well. Lots of good info and experience on this forum. The fix for the o-ring sealing problem was an application of silicone grease and in some cases possibly replacing the o-rings due to deterioration.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, I'm figuring my boost issue is completely the result of the pcv nipple break on my intake tube. The part I ordered from DDM is going to take care of that and I'm just hoping I haven't caused permanent damage driving it with this. Should that be the case, it's not the end of my baby but I will be putting her up until I get everything done. I'm mainly doing work on her myself so things are taking a lot of time but piece by piece I will turn her around.

I do know there is a lot of expertise on this forum. I've had a few issues before and the information and body of knowledge here has been an incredible help. If I'm not mistaken, the thread you're referring to talked about the car entering what's known as limp mode light in order to save the engine from permanent damage. My experience with cars is not as broad as my experience with other machines but I'm doing my best to learn my baby and keep her up to snuff. I greatly appreciate all the help and assistance garnered just in this thread alone and further into others.

I will go back and re-read that conversation though because you never know what piece of information will be the key to solving my dilemma.
 

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There are 3 different modes to a CEL. From what I remember....

1. Pending - not illuminated, but will reduce power. A threshold has been crossed by a sensor for xx seconds, but not long enough or repeated enough to require a CEL....yet. The pending CEL (which will produce a code, as will all CELs) will reset after 10(?) ignition cycles as long as that issue hasn't been detected again.
2. CEL - an issue has been detected and the ECM will reduce power/boost to protect the engine. Vehicle can be driven to nearest repair facility and no other damage "should" occur.
3. Blinking CEL - pull over and shut vehicle off immediately. DO NOT drive vehicle until issue has been corrected. Have vehicle towed to the nearest repair facility. Engine damage will occur if vehicle is driven.
 
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