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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all-
I have read all the posts on jacking the Solstice. I am still a little confused. I have the GM diagrams,albeit small and hard to read. Also have the two color photos with the jackstand positions. I don't want to do some thing stupid.
My understanding is:
I can lift one complete side of the car using my floor jack,jacking on the rear slotted area just in front of the rear wheel. If so, does this stress the chassis?
I cannot lift the front with a floor jack on the slotted ares behind the front wheel.
Jackstand points are on the four boxed areas?
I've made the rear jacking pucks,and they are to be used only on the rear?
It's difficult to see the underneath ,to locate the GM points.
If a conventional four point lift is used, is it acceptable to use the slotted area in the front(with pucks),as well as the rear slotted area/
Can someone supply an easier to read diagram ,other than the GM one?
I know not to jack on the front "crossmember" or the diff.
Thanks in advance!
John
 

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These are the four jacking points on my Sky. I did not use pucks, I just centered the round jack pad on the floor jack as close to centering on the slots without touching the fender panels. work just fine.

PassSideReart.jpg picture by RedSkyMan - Photobucket

PassSideFront.jpg picture by RedSkyMan - Photobucket

DriversSideRear.jpg picture by RedSkyMan - Photobucket

DriversSideFront.jpg picture by RedSkyMan - Photobucket
Great photos. They really help out!:thumbs:
 

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The first two attachments are the jacking instructions from the Kappa Service manual. The third picture shows GM's recommendation from the first two pictures. The fourth pic is where many of our supporting vendors place their jack stands.

Please notice that the front tie down slots are not recommended as lifting points.
 

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DaveOC - Ok then if I read that correct it makes Redsky's front pictures incorrect. (If so I do agree) I did one time jack my car using the single slot on the outside frame up front with a puck and was ok but so many people have had repair shops crunch their fenders or done so themselves in that spot.

I think the problem is that little arrow on the GM diagram that you have a tendency to look at first and not look further. It looks so far on the outside of the frame. But it is pointing to one style of jack for reference I guess.

Idea for ASAP graphics or someone-

Before coming on this forum I was on the Lotus forum for some years and those owners had similar problems. So some company made labels (like military jets) that said "JACK HERE->"
 

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This is a picture I got off the internet of a puck in place on the front pass side. The problem is some of those people who try to lift at this point without a puck, let their jack come in contact with the fender panel thereby cracking it. That's the panel with the tab riveted to it and the bolt to hold it in place just behind the puck.

http://i409.photobucket.com/albums/pp174/RedSkyMan/Frontliftpuckinplace.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK guys-
I'm getting two different opinions here..one says ok to jack on the forward(shipping?) slots , another saying no. Then I see the photo of the yellow floor lift jacking on what appears to be the front slots. Also, I get where the jackstands are positioned on the rear in the photo, but difficult to see where they are positioned in front. The GM diagram is really small. So..using a small floor jack , not a lift, where do I jack in front?
Also in my original post I asked if one total side can be lifted on a small floor jack, using only the rear slotted area and puck. Does this stress the chassis? Thanks,
John
 

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It is OK to jack the front up at either the slot where the pucks go or the place where the shipping holes are. The latter is less likely to do damage to the fender panels. As for the jack stand placement, the usual place is under the wishbone pivot joint.

 

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OK guys-
I'm getting two different opinions here..one says ok to jack on the forward(shipping?) slots , another saying no. Then I see the photo of the yellow floor lift jacking on what appears to be the front slots. Also, I get where the jackstands are positioned on the rear in the photo, but difficult to see where they are positioned in front. The GM diagram is really small. So..using a small floor jack , not a lift, where do I jack in front?
Also in my original post I asked if one total side can be lifted on a small floor jack, using only the rear slotted area and puck. Does this stress the chassis? Thanks,
John
Yes, you can use the front slots to jack the front of the car as long as you are careful to avoid the lift hitting or touching the front fenders.

The picture of the yellow lift shows them on the rear slots and the front on the lifting platforms with the two large holes in them, which is what is shown in the pic of the service manual.

Others claim you can lift the entire side of the car from the rear shipping slots. maybe you can, maybe not, I've never tried it. I doubt that it would stress the frame.

Jack stands usually are placed on the wishbone pivots closest to the middle of the car at both the front and rear.
 

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Others claim you can lift the entire side of the car from the rear shipping slots. maybe you can, maybe not, I've never tried it. I doubt that it would stress the frame.
Whenever I lift from the rear 'slots' the whole side of the car comes up (incl the front wheel). However I have the DDM probeam and backbone, which stiffens the car up a fair bit. Even if you didn't, I'm sure the front wheel would come up eventually, but might need a little more lift from the jack before it did :)
 

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Whenever I lift from the rear 'slots' the whole side of the car comes up (incl the front wheel). However I have the DDM probeam and backbone, which stiffens the car up a fair bit. Even if you didn't, I'm sure the front wheel would come up eventually, but might need a little more lift from the jack before it did :)
I have never lifted the car that far, I am usually lifting it only far enough for the wheel to clear the floor so that I can change wheels/tires. I also have the probeam and backbone, so I'm sure if I kept lifting, eventually the whole side would come up, too.

When changing tires, I usually lift the front at the "shipping" slots, using a wooden block I cut to fit the space around the slot.

Despite my posting GM's recommendations from their Service Manual, and the pictures to support that recommendation, I don't always follow that recommendation at the front of the car. I do follow GM's suggestion when lifting the entire car with a 4-point lift, as it provides a wider base than using all 4 shipping tie down spots.

YMMV

Dave
 

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I have never lifted the car that far, I am usually lifting it only far enough for the wheel to clear the floor so that I can change wheels/tires. I also have the probeam and backbone, so I'm sure if I kept lifting, eventually the whole side would come up, too.
I'm just talking about lifting it far enough to get a jack stand underneath.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
jacking continued

I have never lifted the car that far, I am usually lifting it only far enough for the wheel to clear the floor so that I can change wheels/tires. I also have the probeam and backbone, so I'm sure if I kept lifting, eventually the whole side would come up, too.

When changing tires, I usually lift the front at the "shipping" slots, using a wooden block I cut to fit the space around the slot.

Despite my posting GM's recommendations from their Service Manual, and the pictures to support that recommendation, I don't always follow that recommendation at the front of the car. I do follow GM's suggestion when lifting the entire car with a 4-point lift, as it provides a wider base than using all 4 shipping tie down spots.

YMMV
OK, I'm getting closer..thanks for all the help..one final question.. on the front,are the shipping slots different from the lifting slots? I should have taken reference pics when I had it on the lift. It's now in hibernation.
Thanks,
John
 

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This should answer your last question.

I think we have covered everything now.

 

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OK, I'm getting closer..thanks for all the help..one final question.. on the front,are the shipping slots different from the lifting slots? I should have taken reference pics when I had it on the lift. It's now in hibernation.
Thanks,
John
I have been referring to the slots behind the front wheel and in front of the rear wheel, also outboard right next to the rocker panel, as the shipping slots. Their primary purpose is the be used to hold the car down while it is on a car carrier prior to delivery to the dealer.

The piece that RedSkyMan pictures right before this message is the front lifting spot recommended by the GM Service Manual I posted. It is inbound of the front wheels and further toward the front of the car than the "shipping slots" and each has 2 near golf ball sized holes in it.

Whew! :willy:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Amen! it's over! Sorry for all my questions..thanks to everyone.. on my MGA, it's simply the crossmember and rear diff!
All the best,
John
 

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A note of interest: After reading the many past comments in the Forum on the lack of knowledge of Solstice jacking/lifting by mechanics, including GM mechanics, I was somewhat wary when I took my car to my local Costco Tire Center for the changeover to winter wheels and tires last week (I went to Costco because I had bought my winter tires from them). So, I took along a copy of the pertinent page from the GM manual, as published on the forum, to show them. Surprise! When I checked in, the Costco tire techs already had a copy of a simplified version of this diagram atached to my work order! I was impressed.
 

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Thanks for posting this. Just changed my oil this weekend and wasn't sure where to lift. This made it much easier. Thanks for posting the points to place the jack stands as well. I didn't know it was safe to use the lower A arm as a resting spot for the stands.

And yes, using the back jacking point will raise the front tire off the ground without any extra frame supports. I would say the front tire will raise off the ground when the back tire is approximately 12 inches up off the ground.
 

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Since my car gets lifted almost weekly and because I trailer it a lot, I did considerable research on both lifting and tying it down.

According to all the engineering I could find, the only locations on the chassis that are stressed for tying the car down are the shipping tie down slots in the frame. Two on each side. These are designed to tie the cars down in a ship when they are transported across the ocean. This means a design basis ocean storm. No other points on the chassis are stressed for tying down the car. For transport, it is acceptable to tie the car down using wheel nets that hold the suspension firmly to the trailer, however when this method is used, the car will continue to “work” on its suspension with concomitant issues of wear and stresses outside the design parameters due to the coupled motion with the transport vehicle.

When I lift my car, I always use the front shipping slots. This is because this is closer to the center of gravity of the chassis and results in placing less torsional stress on the chassis. By lifting at the rear, you essentially create a long lever arm connected to the motor mounts that puts loads into the chassis trying to twist it. By lifting at the front slot, you are shortening the leaver arm and as a result putting lesser loads into the chassis and reducing the potential for mechanical problems.

When I am going to put the car on stands, which means every time I go under the car, or when I am pulling all four wheels off for cleaning, I put the jack stands under the jacking points listed in the literature. The problem is that over time, and repeated lifting cycles, the front jacking points have become deformed. Badly. So much so that I am going to have reinforcements welded to the chassis to act as hard points for the jack stands. I recommend you keep an eye on them. Even in the picture shown above, you can see the beginning of deformation of the jacking pad on the edges.
 
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