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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for any advice. The left rear brake line is leaking. Has been for some time apparently. The inside of the wheel is very wet it's a slow leak through the joint where the flex line mates to the caliper. It is leaking out of the joint at the mounting bolt. I cleaned it up and tightened it slightly. It appears to be tight, but I forced it another five degrees or so.

I have not seen this kind of failure before.

Any one else seen similar?
 

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I've seen the thin copper washers give out on some cars and trucks. Thicker copper washers seem to be more dependable. :jm2c:
 

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Just replace the line, why fiddle with it? Could be that the threads are damaged on the line, never heard of thread damage on a caliper, but anything on our cars is possible..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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I'm guessing it's the copper washers. If I can get rlacements today I will find out
You can get a whole box of assorted copper washers at Harbor Fright for the price of one GM washer. The main question is if one will be the correct size. I've reused these washers numerous times, so I suspect your re-tightening will have filled any voids.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks

I cleaned everything up including the inside of the wheel, which is now shiny chrome instead of gray paint, and tightened the seeping line. It should be fine until I get it to Devin next week for the recall.
 

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I had the same issue last fall Rob. If you remember, I was getting the traction control light, then the low brake fluid light right away afterward. Mine was the right rear. We tightened it without any issue. Mine was pretty loose, about a 1/2 turn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Good reminder. I had forgotten that

I tightened the left rear about the same amount. Will give it a test run tomorrow

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I ordered the replacement washers in case the current approach does not work

I went to the parts store with the GM part number but they could not cross it with their system. I did not want to take the brake apart and then not find the washers, because the car would be undriveable until I got the thing fixed. And its going to the dealer next week in any case. the replacement parts:
The items you ordered:
Qty Product # Price EA
10 WASHER. Battery Cable. Brake Line Attachers. Chassis/Engine Wiring Harness. Hydraulic Brake Hose. Hydraulic Brake Pipe. Starter Motor Solenoid. Transmission Converter. 21012386 $0.39
 

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Four cents a piece?? Robbery! lol. Reminded me of a guy at the parts counter that had a customer complain about a 12 cent flat washer. "No way I'm paying THAT. I'll go home and drill a hole in a quarter first!"

Guess he told HIM!
 

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Four cents a piece?? Robbery! lol. Reminded me of a guy at the parts counter that had a customer complain about a 12 cent flat washer. "No way I'm paying THAT. I'll go home and drill a hole in a quarter first!"

Guess he told HIM!
Yo CW, don'tcha mean a old real copper penny??:lol: why waste 24 cents eh?
 

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My bad. Saw "10 washer" and $0.39 - skipped the "price each". Was just hoping I didn't see "S&H - $12.50".
 

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Rob, if you are ever stuck when the parts shows are closed, you can always do what we used to do a lot on the British cars.

For a copper washer to seal properly, it has to be soft so that it conforms to the two surfaces even if they are slightly uneven. The washers are somewhat work hardened right out of the box as a result of being punched etc. in the manufacturing process, but they are usually soft enough to seal.

Sometimes, either due to particularly uneven surfaces on the hose and/or cylinder, the copper washer does leak, or if they have been work hardened from repeated use, same result.

All you need to do to restore softness is to reanneal them - heat them red hot with a torch and then allow then to cool a bit and quench them in water. They will be much softer and should seal again, probably better than new as the new ones were partially work hardened from the manufacturing process.

I know for a fact that a propane torch is hot enough, from doing this by flashlight at night in the pits before a race the next morning (they are also good for lighting small BBQs).
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Good tip. I had not considered this but in retrospect it is pretty obvious.

I am keeping an eye on it now to see if my efforts have solved the problem.


I find it interesting that they held well for over six years and THEN decided to seep. :brentil:
 

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I find it interesting that they held well for over six years and THEN decided to seep. :brentil:
Yeah, that is pretty unusual. If they are properly installed in the first place, and haven't been disturbed they shouldn't leak. Have a good look at the sealing surfaces when you get it apart again and see if there is an answer there. I have seen hairline cracks in a wheel cylinder before.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
When Jeff and Chip installed the new DDM brake pads on Punisher, they found that one of the mounting bolts for the left rear calipers was missing. Seven years in service with no brake issues and a missing bolt. Strange.
 
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