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I just purchased a set of replacement LED Bulbs. And while they look great the turn signal now blink really fast. What do I need to do to get them to blink at a normal rate?? I've searched and can't find anything. Please help.. Sorry but I'm not the smartest when it comes to things like this.
 

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LED bulbs draw a lot less power then a regular bulb and as a result the car thinks the bulbs are blown and blink faster. There is an easy fix for this; actually two different options.

The first option is to buy a ballast resistor. They are available from most vendors that sell the led bulbs. You would need to place the resistor in parallel with the bulb. This will add resistance to the circuit and allow the bulbs to flash as normal.

here's a set of intructions:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/pdfs/load_resistor_info.pdf

The other option is to replace the flasher with one designed for use with LED lights. I believe our cars take the EP29L flashers:

Super Bright LEDs - Electronic LED Flashers Specifications


I like the flaser idea better because there is no need to cut your wires and you can always go back to stock if you change your mid in the future.
 

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odiaz, I think there are a couple of inaccuracies in your post. First, you are correct that the load resistor has to go in parallel with the bulb... but this is to effectively decrease the overall resistance of the circuit to cause more current to flow than the LED alone will draw.

Second, there was a thread some time back on this same subject and the conclusion there was that the turn signal operation (switching) is performed by the BCM and not a separate flasher unit. Thus, you cannot replace the flasher unit (there is none) to get around the fast-flash issue. If you can prove this wrong by identifying where the flasher unit is, I'd be happy to be wrong :)
 

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There is a flasher "unit" under the hood in the box that looks like a battery. Its in the upper right side, has 86 30 87 87A on the outside of the relay.

I think this is the flasher relay.. but has no reason to change it because of load does not matter, 12 volts is 12 volts to the relay.
 

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There is a flasher "unit" under the hood in the box that looks like a battery. Its in the upper right side, has 86 30 87 87A on the outside of the relay.

I think this is the flasher relay.. but has no reason to change it because of load does not matter, 12 volts is 12 volts to the relay.
Sorry, nope. Turn your indicators on and listen for anything clicking in the relay box. Nothing does. (BTW, the clicking indicator sound you can hear comes from the BCM via the radio to the left A-pillar speaker only.)

Also BTW, load DOES matter - by load, I mean current/amperage flowing through the bulb circuit. That's effectively what the BCM (or flasher unit if there were one) uses to detect a blown filament and does the fast-flash to inform you of same. Adding the resistor in parallel allows more current to flow and fools the flasher system.
 

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I have replaced several of my lights with LEDs. All came with load resisters. The resisters go across the two leads to the lights and splice into the wires so there is no cutting required. I have spider lights in the tail / turn and LEDs for backup with resisters. They work fine. I bought mine on line and found that the seller's instructions were vehicle specific and said which load resister to buy with the LED lights. Came with written instructions in the load resister box. All you need is simple hand tools.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black07Solstice
There is a flasher "unit" under the hood in the box that looks like a battery. Its in the upper right side, has 86 30 87 87A on the outside of the relay.

I think this is the flasher relay.. but has no reason to change it because of load does not matter, 12 volts is 12 volts to the relay.

Sorry, nope. Turn your indicators on and listen for anything clicking in the relay box. Nothing does. (BTW, the clicking indicator sound you can hear comes from the BCM via the radio to the left A-pillar speaker only.)

Also BTW, load DOES matter - by load, I mean current/amperage flowing through the bulb circuit. That's effectively what the BCM (or flasher unit if there were one) uses to detect a blown filament and does the fast-flash to inform you of same. Adding the resistor in parallel allows more current to flow and fools the flasher system.
Mine has a relay there for the turn signals. If you pull it out, no turn signals, if you put it in. Turn signals.. go figure.
 

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Mine has a relay there for the turn signals. If you pull it out, no turn signals, if you put it in. Turn signals.. go figure.
Hmmm, that's really interesting! Do you hear the relay 'click' when flashing? On mine I don't. Oh, and what position is your relay in (numbers are in the description on the lid)? Or maybe it's a N/A - GXP or 07-08 difference?

(I really want there to be a flasher circuit on mine - it'd allow me to solve some other issues I have!)
 

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From clearlyauto dot com:
ACDELCO - Dimmer And Turn Signal Switch
In Stock
Part Number: D6212E
Fits vehicles: 06-09 Pontiac Solstice - Quantity per vehicle: 1

From what I remember, Flasher Relays "used" to click much louder and were located in the drivers compartment where they could be better heard years ago. As they became more advanced the clicking became more faint and more items (fuses and relays) were moved to the engine bay the sound could no longer be heard. This initialy caused an issue with more drivers forgeting to turn the directionals off because there was no longer a remining "click" and resulted in car manufacturers reprograming the vehicles BCM to produce the clicking noise. Some to a seperate speaker in the vehicle and some (as ours) through the radio speakers. This function is produced simultaniously but seperatly when the singnal is initiated but the actual flashing function is still produced by the flasher relay.

Others are correct in that it is not a drop in voltage, but a drop in amperage draw that triggers the "fast-flash"/bulb out warning. and the resisters fooling the system to think the proper flow is occuring. The LED relay replacement will cause the vehicle to operate under the newly required lower draw aslo.

When I installed all of my LED bulbs rear brake/turn, front turns, and running lights, I got the fast flash and added the resisters to mine and they have worked flawlessly for three years so far. I did not know about LED operation specific relays at the time and adding them to mine now would not do anything unless I removed the resisters. I do however know that other KAPPA owners are running the LED flasher relays successfuly as well, so the choice is yours. I think I would prefer the relay swap had I known about them from the get go but either method works fine.
 

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My Spyder/Spider Lights I installed do that. But I like the fast blinking. It's very European! Allot of the European cars blinkers work this way on purpose.

Daytime

Night time.:cool:[/QUOTE]
They work great and look cool!
 

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OK, this is from a copy of the 2006 Solstice wiring diagram. This shows the turn signal supply voltage comes directly from the BCM (light and dark blue lines). The only separate relay is for the parking lamp filaments. (Same follows for the yellow and green lines going to the rear bulbs, off the bottom of the image.):



Black07, this goes against what you've been saying. If you would please check your car when you get home and verify an external flasher, and position number thereof, I would really appreciate it.

(Just want to get a real & final confirmation here, certainly not trying to bust anyone's round objects :) )
 

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Errr, sorry Gunny but I don't think that's what we're talking about...
Oops. Probably right. I can't see most pictures at work. My bad.

As far as the diagram goes I see the light and dark blue wiring going into the engine bay fuse box but not through the relay. I also see the brown wire coming from the relay and going to the turns as well since they are dual bulbs. I get that the side markers do not flash and are juiced soley via the brown.

I'm just trying to figure (without seeing the entire diagram) what wires actual cause the flashing. The power wires (light and dark blue), the brown, or the drkgrn/white and the yellow/black (which neither of these two go to the front turns).

It's still confusing, especialy when black 07 says his signal's don't work with the park relay removed.

My guess from looking at this is the BCM surges power through the four (non brown colors) to create the flash and the signal relay has to be built either into as a chip or onto the BCM board somewhere. Take some sort of brain like a relay to cause the on/off action. so the final question is still "Where is the darn thing". :lol:
 

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I'm just trying to figure (without seeing the entire diagram) what wires actual cause the flashing. The power wires (light and dark blue), the brown, or the drkgrn/white and the yellow/black (which neither of these two go to the front turns).

It's still confusing, especialy when black 07 says his signal's don't work with the park relay removed.

My guess from looking at this is the BCM surges power through the four (non brown colors) to create the flash and the signal relay has to be built either into as a chip or onto the BCM board somewhere. Take some sort of brain like a relay to cause the on/off action. so the final question is still "Where is the darn thing". :lol:
You got it. Brown wires are 'constant' +ve supply for parking lights, blacks are grounds, blues+green/yellow are 'flashed' supply for the front and rear turn signal filaments (respectively), originating directly from the BCM. At least, that's what the circuit diagram says.

Don't know how this matches what Black07 was saying, so I'm waiting (with bated breath) on his verification/confirmation.

Ball's in your court Mr.Black :yesnod: :tenterhooks:
 

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Nope. Didn't work for me. That relay (position 68) is the parking lamp relay and equates to the text on the circuit diagram I posted. Removing it (for me at least) disabled the parking lamps, but the turn signals still work... exactly as the circuit diagram shows. Plus, it's a regular magnetic-coil relay and clicks audibly when turned on/off, so you'd hear it clicking if it drove the flashers and anyway it's not a flasher unit (with an internal timer circuit).

Pretty sure the conclusion is that the BCM drives the turn signals internally.
 

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Pretty sure the conclusion is that the BCM drives the turn signals internally.
So resisters are the way to go, which is fine except for those that don't want to cut wires. Guess they can deal with the fast flash but I don't know what, if any damage that could do to the BCM in the long run. Three years running resisters with no issues here. :thumbs:

Relay would have been a nice option though and easier for install.
 

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You guys are right that resistors are the way to go. A better alternative to the resistors for those that wantd to spend the money would be to purchase a pair of LED tail lights, which would come with the resistors built in. Unfortunately, I've been looking for them for the last 4 years and haven't been able to find them. Darn it......
 
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