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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know its still a bit early but for everyone looking for more hp, there are many mods that are pretty much standard to look at for any car. These will be high on my personal list. Of course increased throttle response is one of the best gains not just hp gains, also increase handling and breaking will come too but after the engine upgrades.
Now hopefully the solsitice engine will be able to handle such upgrades

engine upgrades
1. cold air intake, with constant radius bends (5-8hp)$100-$250
2. under drive pulley (3-5hp)$100
3. throttle body (3-5hp)$250
4. full exhaust race header, intake and catback $500-$1200
5. aluminum fly wheel (7-30hp)this depends largly on other mods$600+add centerforce clutch while we are at it
6. ported head $900
7. computer chip upgrade $300
8. adjustable cam gears for timing adjustments$200
9. loose the CAI and UDP drop in jackson racing super charger($2500)(70hp)
10. higher rated spark plug wires
11. thats all that comes to mind at the moment

suspension/ breaks upgrades
1. poly bushings
2. replace any rubber engine/tranny mounts with poly
3. possible larger rear sway bar
4. Koni adjustable shocks(with the height of this car from the factory it might be nice to actully raise it a bit sometimes! coil overs not likly needed)
6. slotted roters
7. lighter wheels
8. much more possible once we know the handling characteristics and the skid pad

body upgrades
1.carbon fiber hood too loose some weight (this could be expensive($500-$2000)
2. i want to see some aggressive body packages for this beast.
 

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I wasnt sure about all that either but i was reading in some of the other threads that there is talk of a turbocharger for the system. I dont know if its true or not but thats what ive read
 

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ambient said:
I know its still a bit early but for everyone looking for more hp, there are many mods that are pretty much standard to look at for any car. These will be high on my personal list. Of course increased throttle response is one of the best gains not just hp gains, also increase handling and breaking will come too but after the engine upgrades.
Now hopefully the solsitice engine will be able to handle such upgrades
I admire your ambition. Faster and better handling is a good thing IMO. Having recently come from the BMW and VW tuning business I've got a few hints for you.

ambient said:
engine upgrades
1. cold air intake, with constant radius bends (5-8hp)$100-$250
EXTREMELY optimistic HP gain numbers. Judging by what I have seen of the stock system, a K&N panel drop-in should be more than adequate. Stock system looks pretty good out of the box. With no other mods, expect 1-2 HP at best.

ambient said:
2. under drive pulley (3-5hp)$100
No doubt you mean pulleys for the accessories. Don't mess with the crank pulley if you don't have to. Again, optimistic gains on this small engine, but every little bit helps. Underdrive pulleys are a proven method.

ambient said:
3. throttle body (3-5hp)$250
Most likely a waste of money until the heads have been modified. Some minor work on the stock unit would be free and all that is needed on a well designed stock engine, which this appears to be.

ambient said:
5. aluminum fly wheel (7-30hp)this depends largly on other mods$600+add centerforce clutch while we are at it
Again, on this small engine single digit gains are all that could be expected. Also, the installation labor makes this a very expensive mod for very little gain. Drivability will also suffer. Wait until you need a new clutch for this job, then expect to be in the 4 digit range for a good clutch, lightweight flywheel and installation.

ambient said:
6. ported head $900
BMW's M-Technik cylinder heads are about the only stock heads I've ever seen that weren't crying out for a good porting job. For real HP gains, probably the second best place to start.

ambient said:
7. computer chip upgrade $300
Here is where some real gains can usually be found and GM is a chip tuner friendly company, unlike a lot of others. Expect to pay more than $300, but still well worth more and the FIRST thing to do.

ambient said:
8. adjustable cam gears for timing adjustments$200
Utterly unneccesary as the engine uses variable cam timing out of the box. Since the cam timing is computer controlled, expect the chip tuner to work this out for you.

ambient said:
9. loose the CAI and UDP drop in jackson racing super charger($2500)(70hp)
Gotta love a good SC. And 70 HP is not out of the question either. That price tag seems a tad on the low side to me. The tooling for the Jackson Racing system was amortized a LONG time ago. Not so a new system for this engine/car. And then there is installation.....

ambient said:
10. higher rated spark plug wires
Probably a waste of money until way down the road when the originals need replacing. GM makes great ignition systems, including the stock wires.


ambient said:
suspension/ breaks upgrades
1. poly bushings
2. replace any rubber engine/tranny mounts with poly
Wouldn't bother unless you're going to race the car for real. Most autocross classes don't allow this mod until you get into some of the higher classes. Rough ride for what purpose? The car claims to pull .9g with stock rubber already. Now some offset bushings for the wishbone A arms is not a bad idea. Adjustability in your suspension is how the really quick racers optimize their setup.

ambient said:
3. possible larger rear sway bar
I'm a proponent of a balanced set of front and rear ADJUSTABLE bars. I've got a feeling this chassis will only need fine tuning to make it really quick.

ambient said:
4. Koni adjustable shocks(with the height of this car from the factory it might be nice to actully raise it a bit sometimes! coil overs not likly needed)
The stock units are Bilstein coil-over units. Bet your arse Bilstein will have height and damper-force adjustable units on the market in short order. Height adjustable so you can corner weight the car. This can make a HUGE difference in how it handles. Adjustable dampers if you are moving into the upper classes of autocross. Again, its in the details. Fine tuning and all that.

ambient said:
6. slotted roters
For what exactly? Will look cool, but its the tires that stop the car. And while I'm on the subject, its the wheel and tire package that'll make the car turn and stop better, so choose wisely. Forget the rotors unless the stock system has some serious fade issues. Just upgrade your pads.

ambient said:
7. lighter wheels
Oh, yes. Lighter is definitely better here. You can do more to improve your car's acceleration, braking and turning by reducing unsprung weight and putting the stickiest rubber you can afford on the rims. This can actually have a greater effect than reducing the vehicles total mass, though doing both is the way to go if you can.

Is this helpful or am I just being an arrogant pr**k? ;)
 

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I saw a DeLorean once with a lift kit and off-road truck tires. I wonder if anyone will offer THAT aftermarket kit? :glol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
short reply to breeze

Great insight breeze! im just a mear hobby modder, i do alot of my work myself but there are things that i simply dont touch because of my lack of skills eg flywheel install.
I did the install for my last s/c on a 1998 civic, mind you it took me damn near a week to do it, but with the space in the solstice under the hood most work should be realativly simple
For hp gains im just basing off of over all gain for other cars, most numbers are close to what im getting on my moddified ford focus right now. Really we can only guess at any gains for the solstice.

For the poly bushings, every car i have been in that has this upgrade done has shown MUCH better cornering and stablity with aggressive driving. Handling is a bit stiffer but most cars are desined these days to drive overly soft. I live in an area with really great roads so its not an issue.
My Fiat spyder is a dramatic example of swapping out the rubber for poly, it had much less corner lean, shifted smoother, and just outright handled like a much more expensive car. Mind you the bushings that i took out were likely original for the car 1977 :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
turbo compression ratio

Not POSITIVE about this but breeze could likely answer it, if you changed the head could you theortically change to a lower compession. Usually you change the head for higher compression but i dont see why you could not lower to work for turbo. Or swap out the pistons might be a option too.
 

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Enlarging the combustion chamber volume without changing bore, stroke or piston design will lower compression. You'd have to loose quite a bit of material in the chamber to make a big difference though, and that would likely do more harm than good for a forced induction application. Less metal means it won't cool as efficiently and that is very important for controlling detonation. For a high compression engine being force fed, heat is the big enemy. That's why engines designed as turbo or supercharged generally have lower compression ratios to begin with.
In the end, air to water aftercooler or water injection or methanol injection are effective and much less expensive. For that engine, I see a centrifugal supercharger or a turbo system as being the most engine freindly. The Jackson Racing Roots-style blower (originally designed for the Miata by former IMSA racer Jim Downing, BTW) is heavier and harder to cool. Much more quiet than a centrifugal blower though.
 

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Breeze said:
Enlarging the combustion chamber volume without changing bore, stroke or piston design will lower compression. You'd have to loose quite a bit of material in the chamber to make a big difference though, and that would likely do more harm than good for a forced induction application. Less metal means it won't cool as efficiently and that is very important for controlling detonation. For a high compression engine being force fed, heat is the big enemy. That's why engines designed as turbo or supercharged generally have lower compression ratios to begin with.
In the end, air to water aftercooler or water injection or methanol injection are effective and much less expensive. For that engine, I see a centrifugal supercharger or a turbo system as being the most engine freindly. The Jackson Racing Roots-style blower (originally designed for the Miata by former IMSA racer Jim Downing, BTW) is heavier and harder to cool. Much more quiet than a centrifugal blower though.
Is this too simple a way to think of lower comp ratio? Install stacked head gaskets or spacer. Done. The reverse of milling the head (if there is valvetrain clearance) increases the ratio.
 

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achieftain said:
Is this too simple a way to think of lower comp ratio? Install stacked head gaskets or spacer. Done. The reverse of milling the head (if there is valvetrain clearance) increases the ratio.
Yup, that'd do it too. See, there IS more than one way to skin a cat.:D
 

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It would be cheaper and probably less of a hassel to drop a real motor in the Solstice.

Maybe other than aftermarket rims, I don't see altering the car particularly if its early production (even after the first 1000).
 

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And GM Performance parts has an aluminum block 60 degree V6 and aluminum heads good for 3.4L. Used in dirt track racing and makes real nice power. I've actually contemplated taking the cast iron 2.5L Triumph lump out of my TVR and sliding one of those in.:D Lighter weight, more power. What's not to like about that?:)
 

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Breeze said:
And GM Performance parts has an aluminum block 60 degree V6 and aluminum heads good for 3.4L. Used in dirt track racing and makes real nice power. I've actually contemplated taking the cast iron 2.5L Triumph lump out of my TVR and sliding one of those in.:D Lighter weight, more power. What's not to like about that?:)

Oh man, stop it, your bringing make too many fond memories of thirteen years of racing. I'm 51, and still tinker everytime I buy something. You should see my GMC Z71 and V-Rod! Stock isn't in my vocabulary. Maybe after awhile I'll see whats out there for the Solstice, but for now, it's design seems too good to mess with. :yesnod:
 

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Actually, on a forced induction car 5-8 hp increase from a stock intake to a good CAI is perfectly reasonable. A N/A car won't see that much improvement, but a good CAI can easily make that much difference on a supercharged car or turbocharged car.

Just my $.02, based on my experience with my GTP and everybody else over at clubgp.
 

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Modest things that I plan on doing (in chronological order, mostly dependent on development of the after market)
1. Pull off the Tuperware engine cover and polish the valve cover
2. Try to figure out if a storage area can be added under the hood, above and in front of the radiator
3. Add stripes to hood and trunk
4. cold air intake, with constant radius bends (removeing the intake muffler and going with a K&N cone type air filter may not give that much of a HP gain but it gives the car a great sucking sound from under the hood thats worth the few dollars it costs. Before Iceman intakes were marketed, I installed one on my Honda using a 2 1/2" Kenworth radiator hose at $10 a foot. Had better heat gain and flow numbers than the ones costing over $300!)
5. Switch to light weight 17" rims and medium stick tires once the stock tires are worn
By then there'll be an after market so I can
6. Add a trailer hitch to pull a little flat bed trailer or a little Teardrop trailer (remember those from the fifties?)
7. Replace the chip (even though that'll mean switching to premium gas)
8. higher rated spark plug wires (Disagree about GM's stock wire's quality. Although they're better than Ford's, had to replace them twice on the Camaro till I went with MSD. On that car it was a 3 hr job! And they come in cool colors!)

I don't plan on replacing the stock cat back exhaust 'cuz it's a roadster. After I added the Evenrude hearders and cat back to the Honda, I ended up adding 10 sq ft of high density foam and still wore earplugs on cross country vacations. And a year ago read that GM was working hard to get the exhaust to sound right on the Solstice.

Hopefully I won't have to modify the seat frame or decrease the stearing wheel diameter get my long, skinny legs to fit in the car.
 

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SkyCaptain said:
Actually, on a forced induction car 5-8 hp increase from a stock intake to a good CAI is perfectly reasonable. A N/A car won't see that much improvement, but a good CAI can easily make that much difference on a supercharged car or turbocharged car.

Just my $.02, based on my experience with my GTP and everybody else over at clubgp.
Quite right, for forced induction. Reason beng the stock intake system for a N/A engine is designed to flow only enough CFM to feed the engine at max rpm with a little room to spare. When you breath on an engine, or increase the boost level on a turbo or supercharged engine, you increase its airflow requirements significantly. If you want to maximize HP potential you do need to increase the air flow capacity of the intake system. Otherwise it would be like trying to slurp twice the volume of milkshake through the same small straw.

The whole purpose of a reengineered intake system is to reduce negative boost, which is the force which acts opposite the piston's effort to draw air and fuel into the cylinder.
 

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DreamerDave said:
7. Replace the chip (even though that'll mean switching to premium gas)
What chip is this, and what's it do, and how do you get it replaced, and what?
 
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