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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys and gals!

I have a 2008 GXP Turbo with the GM tune. It only has 3100 original miles on it. I drive it on the weekends when I can. I am experiencing a small problem. After driving the car for about 10-15 mins (or longer), the turbo shuts down. The only way to get it back up is to turn the car off and start it back up. I've read a lot of threads but really can't figure out what is happening or why?

Any ideas what could be causing this issue? I did get the service light one time but no codes. It's weird. I don't hammer the car so I am baffled by why this happening?

Oh... i did replace the turbo fuse for grins. The original fuse looked fine but just in case.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks! You don't happen to have a picture of the butt connectors I need to solder, do you?
 

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Yes, either the crimped connectors need soldering, or your OEM intake tube clamps are failing.

Fix both of these issues anyway, as it's likely both will cause problems down the road (even if it's only one of them for now :))

The crimps are in the wires (probably taped over inside the loom) just before the connectors to your replaced MAP sensors. See the MAP and TMAP sensors identified in this photo:



The important clamps to replace are those on either end of the large rubber hose attached to the aluminium tube, just below the TMAP sensor in the photo.

See DDM t-bolt clamp kit: http://www.ddmworks.com/sky/engine/lnftboltkit.html (this has all 6 clamps to replace, but I've only heard of the two I mention above, actually failing)
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks Tomato! You know the connector on the airbox duct elbow? I took a screwdriver to it and I was able to make 3 turns on it to tighten her down.

I checked the other ones to make sure they were tight. I will see if this fixes it. If not, I will look at the other suggestion.

I guess I will have to cut back the wire sleeve to do this, correct? I see where they made the connections on the TMAP using butt connectors. Is this where you guys are suggesting to solder?

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I found a cut white wire on the MAP. When I removed the electrical tape, there's no wire for it connect too. This leads me to believe it's not needed.

Any ideas about that wire?

Thanks!
 

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That is the way the GMPP is setup.
But YOU NEED TO SOLDER THE WIRES!!!
 

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I will be soldering them tomorrow. Thanks everyone! I pray this is it.
I think your prayer will be answered.

This sounds so familiar. It happened to me, too, starting at about 2,000 miles.

I'm betting your problem is with the wiring (butt connectors). By the way, I found there is no "code" for dealer screwed up the wiring of the GMPP kit.

Neither my GM dealer (who had installed the GMPP kit) or GM's worthless 800 number would step up to find the problem and honor the 5yr/100,000 warranty. See, there was no code so there could be no problem.

This went on for months. Then I remembered - Subaru sold turbocharged cars. By then there were about 5,600, not exactly trouble-free, miles on the GXP.

Armed with a copy of a thread I started on this forum asking for help (which the GM dealer service mgr. wouldn't read), I paid the local Subaru dealership to read the entire thread and check not only the wiring but the other possible solutions posters to my thread had listed.

This link will summarize what the Subaru mechanics checked for and what they found.

http://www.solsticeforum.com/forum/1014773-post30.html

Time passes quickly. That was 21 months and over 12,000 miles ago. The car has been safe and fun to drive ever since. Once the wires were soldered and wrapped, the GXP has had no other mechanical problems.
 

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I found a cut white wire on the MAP. When I removed the electrical tape, there's no wire for it connect too. This leads me to believe it's not needed.

Any ideas about that wire?

Thanks!
The two sensors are both TMAP, but only the MAP part is actually used on the second sensor. Thus the wire you found is for the (unused) "T" part (TMAP=Temperature and Manifold Air Pressure).

So, as Latin says, this is 'normal'.

Solder the wires anyway. But tightening the clamps may not be a permanent solution for that part. In fact if you found one/them loose it points to failure...

 

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excellent thread - thanks to all of you :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I really can't thank everyone enough! My neighbor is a mechanic and he said he would do it for free. He praised this forum for figuring this out. He said nothing is better than soldering connections. Thank you so much! I will keep you posted on how it goes. Have a great weekend!
 

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The two sensors are both TMAP, but only the MAP part is actually used on the second sensor. Thus the wire you found is for the (unused) "T" part (TMAP=Temperature and Manifold Air Pressure).

So, as Latin says, this is 'normal'.

Solder the wires anyway. But tightening the clamps may not be a permanent solution for that part. In fact if you found one/them loose it points to failure...


Keep in mind as well that this worm type hose clamp is inherently prone to loosening. If you have these clamps on ANY hose, ANY vehicle, as summer passes to winter then summer again, the heat, shrinking, swelling is hard to handle with these clamps. In radiator applications this can easily cause little hose to pipe leaks. So most manuals state that the clamps should at least be checked annually.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Quick Update...

Hey guys and gals! I just wanted to give you a quick update on my 2008 Solstice limp mode issue. I took the advice of the members in the forum thread and checked the clamps. I found 1 clamp that was not tightened down all the way. It was the clamp connected to the air box. I was able to tighten it down 3-4 turns. Also, I did back the waste gate off a bit by at least a full turn. I am still waiting to get the map and tmap sensors solder. In the meantime, I have not had any issues with the turbo shutting down. I suspect the clamp was the issue? Maybe a leak?

I am scheduled for this weekend to get the sensors soldered. My neighbor who works on cars agrees whole heartedly with the group. He said even if I did solve the issue, all connections should be soldered regardless.

Again thanks to everyone!
 

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I am assuming that since you "backed off the WG Adjustment" that you have moved it in the past?

A. Don't mess with the factory setting.

B. If you have messed with the factory setting and are not sure where it was set originally:
The official reset from GM is:
1. Back off the adjustment all the way until you feel no spring pressure on the actuator rod.
2. Then turn the adjustment back to the tighten side until you just feel the spring pressure from the diaphragm and stop.
3. Then turn the adjustment three more revolutions towards tighten.
4. Set the apposing set nut. Snug both nuts tightly. Lock tight is strongly recommended.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes I did. It was my first attempt to mod my Solstice. When I learned GM was offering a tune, I attempted to return to factory settings and I got the tune. The car drove fine initially for months but it started having these hiccup type issues and the turbo would shut down. I would have to turn the car off and start it again. I backed it off a couple of more turns, tightened the clamp, and it seems ok for now. I am still going to solder the map and tmap wires though.
 

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Hey guys,

Been having a limp mode light issue (no more than 5psi boost). I got the GMPP upgrade a couple years ago. This happens and goes away randomly and is very frustrating. I found this explanation and suggestion. Tonight I unwrapped my MAP sensor and it does look like I have the butt connectors, but there is some sort of protective covering that is glued in place, and doesn't look like it could corrode.

The wires in the picture were wrapped in tape, had a black plastic cover and wrapped again.

I may just have them done anyway since this is really pissing me off.

 

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Hey guys,

Been having a limp mode light issue (no more than 5psi boost). I got the GMPP upgrade a couple years ago. This happens and goes away randomly and is very frustrating. I found this explanation and suggestion. Tonight I unwrapped my MAP sensor and it does look like I have the butt connectors, but there is some sort of protective covering that is glued in place, and doesn't look like it could corrode.

The wires in the picture were wrapped in tape, had a black plastic cover and wrapped again.

I may just have them done anyway since this is really pissing me off.
Get rid of the butt connectors. What you describe above happened to me exactly the same way, same timing, same 5 psi boost, everything. I cut out the connectors and soldered the wires together and have had no issues for 4 years now. Removing the butt connectors and soldering the wires on the two sensors should take no longer than 1/2 an hour.t Don't forget to tape the exposed soldered wires or use shrink wrap.
 

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Shrink wrap is the way to go to cover the solder joints, plus protect the connection from corrosion/moister. They also now sell a "liquid electrical sealer". However I don't know how heat resistant it is. Electrical tape unravels over time with heat.
 
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