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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm finally giving my baby some much needed "stuff". It's great when you don't have to go into work and you can save an extra $400/week because you don't go out to eat anymore, not too mention the extra $80 in gas.... So, since I've saved this money for the last 18 weeks and I have some time, it's time to do some upgrades on my baby.

Now that the rims and tires are ordered and on their way soon, it's time for the stereo. I've been reading old threads and looking for some new speakers first. The headunit will come in the next few months. (Or maybe I have this backwards...maybe I should get a new receiver first? That's why I'm posting this.) So I'm wondering if these will fit my Monsoon system? Eventually I will get another monsoon box to put behind the driver's seat....or may build an enclosure over the winter for the trunk...not sure yet...depends on job situation. Here are the speakers I'm looking at...any advice, thoughts, recommendations are appreciated.

Subwoofer:
Pioneer TS-A2000LD2

Door Speakers:
JBL 631 Concert Series 6-1/2" 3-way car speakers

A-pillar speakers:
Alpine S-S10TW S-Series 1" silk dome tweeters

Again, any advice is appreciated.
 

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Did my head unit first. Have the monsoon speaker system. Noticed an improvement with it. Went from good to good+. A few months later I decided to do the door speakers. Went from good to excellent. That is all I needed to do.
My new Avatar and soon to be Splash Screen plus Door...
 

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I would suggest you get component speakers (2-way woofer/mid and tweeter w/crossover). Though this will force you to rewire the speaker connections, you probably want to do that anyway, since the stock wiring is so cheap-assed. I got Alpine Type-R SPR-17S for mine which I'm very happy with, but that was 10 years ago, so there may be better for the price now. I was able (with a small amount of Dremel'ing) to fit the tweeters into the stock tweeter mount/clips so the pillars look stock. Plus, I mounted the crossover blocks up under the dash at both sides.

Again, just a suggestion.
 

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I went through a similar pursuit. I decided to buy the best 6.5 speakers I could, best 10 inch shallow sub, and best bluetooth amp. So I don’t use my head unit at all, and from the outside it doesn’t look like a have an upgraded system. I absolutely love the results. Nothing like going 80mph and hearing your songs crystal clear. I could give a hs football stadium a concert at max volume
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would suggest you get component speakers (2-way woofer/mid and tweeter w/crossover). Though this will force you to rewire the speaker connections, you probably want to do that anyway, since the stock wiring is so cheap-assed. I got Alpine Type-R SPR-17S for mine which I'm very happy with, but that was 10 years ago, so there may be better for the price now. I was able (with a small amount of Dremel'ing) to fit the tweeters into the stock tweeter mount/clips so the pillars look stock. Plus, I mounted the crossover blocks up under the dash at both sides.

Again, just a suggestion.
Thanks everyone.... I'm new to the whole stereo components. I had a sub added to my Mustang for a bit more bump, nothing obnoxious, although it could have been had I turned the base up and that was on the Mach system. A friend did it for me. The last thing I did anything to a stereo myself in was my '84 Fiero. Replaced it all, 2 days later the car became possessed and left me stranded on the side of the road. It was the fusable link. Had a shop go through my stereo I just did and they rewired everything...incorrectly. My stereo was hooked up to my parking lights, so when I turned on my headlights, there was a HUGE flash under the dash from the inline fuse and it blew out my headlights and stereo. So I had to redo everything they did. Then 2 months after that the possession came back. After I sold it with the "electrical" gremlin, I found out from a friend that the diode in the alternator went bad and was reversing the current. After that I really never touched another car stereo. So if I chose to do this, it could be baptism by fire quickly. I plan on changing the leather out on my door panels because it has really bubbled this year, to a white boat vinyl...and figured that I should go ahead and change the door speakers and A-pillar speakers while I was at it.... And maybe the sub...
 

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I went with Focal ISC 165- integration 61/2 in coax speakers also put in Dynamat 1045-10"x10"x0.067" thick self adhesive sound deadener xtreme speaker kit. So far i do like the sound they put out. Good luck with your search Ghost & let us know after your install how it sounds.
 

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It should be noted that the specs given to car audio are way out of whack. The standard way of noting the bass ability of any driver is where it is 3 dB down in output - in other words what frequency matches where the output of the driver i 1/2 what it was. Car speakers pay little attention, making t almost impossible to assess performance accurately. Take a look at that Pioneer sub that Ghost cited. Look up the instructions for the speaker. The 20 Hz figure isn't 3 dB down it is 20 dB down (every 3 dB is a doubling of sound output, so at 20 Hz there is probably almost no detectable output. from those drivers).

The easiest path to improvement in car audio IS usually the speakers as the stock drivers used cost a small faction of what a decent driver does, but watch out for misleading specs etc. BTW, the 3 dB down point on most so called subwoofer doesn't get you anywhere near what a true sub does; they are really nothing but a woofer that bumps low bass (NOT sub bass) a bit. There is more bullcrap printed and talked in car audio than in anything else I can think of off hand.

For those wanting to upgrade, I suggest that you look at threads where people did this and what their conclusions were about what they had done. You can avoid doing things that don't work and find relatively inexpensive driver swaps that do work.

PS - FYI, 20 Hz is about as low as you can actually hear a musical note - below that you feel it.
 

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I'm with TS; you should definitely consider components. Morel makes a nice 6.5 inch 2-way component set that's reasonably priced. If you're looking for higher end, you should consider Focal components.
For the sub, you'll need a shallow mount for sure. If you don't mind doing a little customization, you can fit up to a 12 inch shallow mount sub in the stock enclosure. To me, this makes much more sense than a trunk mounted enclosure.
As far as making everything work with your Monsoon system, I'm not sure how you'd go about that. I just took out everything Monsoon related and stored it in my garage.
As far as headunits go, look at name brands with the features you want (wireless Carplay/ Android Auto, screen mirroring, rear camera input, etc). Alpine, Kenwood, JVC and Pioneer typically make good head units.

Check out the Audio mods section for ideas.
 

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One thing to keep in mind - if you just upgrade the speakers, the sound improves and the appearance stays the same - no one knows it isn't stock. The minute you plug in a new head unit, it becomes like catnip to thieves and the chances of break-ins just skyrocketed.
 

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My favourite anti-theft exercise was on one of my 1970s Jensen Interceptors. They came with Lear Jet 8 track units (IIRC a double DIN size). I just carefully sawed off the front of a non-working 8 track player and hinged it with a magnetic catch. I mounted a modern cassette deck with remote mount CD player in the trunk, and had a stealth set up no thief would think twice about.
 

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One thing to keep in mind - if you just upgrade the speakers, the sound improves and the appearance stays the same - no one knows it isn't stock. The minute you plug in a new head unit, it becomes like catnip to thieves and the chances of break-ins just skyrocketed.
Double-DIN touch screens are pretty much universal in everything from GM (and just about everyone else) these days. I think that most thieves don't even look at them any more.
 

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My favourite anti-theft exercise was on one of my 1970s Jensen Interceptors. They came with Lear Jet 8 track units (IIRC a double DIN size). I just carefully sawed off the front of a non-working 8 track player and hinged it with a magnetic catch. I mounted a modern cassette deck with remote mount CD player in the trunk, and had a stealth set up no thief would think twice about.
I've done something similar on a few of my old cars w/ good systems. But I used casette player faceplates pulled from salvage yards, attached to a blank faceplate that snapped into the trim ring around the receiver.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Check out the Audio mods section for ideas.
I would if 95% of it wasn't 10+ years old. Things change rapidly in audio.
 

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I would if 95% of it wasn't 10+ years old. Things change rapidly in audio.
True, but there's still good info there that is as relevant now as it was 10 years ago (how to remove panels, soundproofing, monsoon box modification, etc). For info on current car audio gear, check out Diymobileaudio.com
 

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Also, sub goes behind passenger, amp goes behind driver. And I looked up what I got:

sub: JL 10tw3-d4 (current model)
amp: JBL gtr7535 (current model is Stadium 5)
6.5 speakers: JBL 660gti (current model is 670gti)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Also, sub goes behind passenger, amp goes behind driver. And I looked up what I got:

sub: JL 10tw3-d4 (current model)
amp: JBL gtr7535 (current model is Stadium 5)
6.5 speakers: JBL 660gti (current model is 670gti)
Cool thanks. I was going to put another sub enclosure behind the drivers seat, so I would like to run 2 amps. One for the subs and one for the other 6 speakers, unless I can get an 8 channel amp. I found one but it didn't push more then 100watts. So a bit weak. Now I don't always ride with my stereo turned up, but there are those times.....
 

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You wouldn't need an 8 channel amp (or even 8 channels of amplification) if you used components in the front with passive crossovers.
  • front component speaker (left and right)= 2 channels
  • rears= 2
  • passenger sub, driver sub= 2
So at the most you'd need 6.
Alternatively, you could power the rears with built in amplification from your head unit which would then mean you'd only need 4 channels.
Or, use (2) 4 ohm subs wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load, and run from 1 sub channel from the amp, in which case you'd only need 3 channels.
Lots of different ways to do this.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
How much wiring is involved in wiring in crossovers for the doors and a-pillars? Is it worth it? And would I need an amp for the door speakers if they're rated for 80watts if I planned on using....say 40 watts?
 

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Your amp will attach to positive and negative inputs on each crossover, then the crossover will have outputs for your midbass and tweeter. The only (fairly) difficult part about this is running wires through the rubber boot in the door. It's been a while since I did my install, but IIRC, from the door boot, the wires have to go into the engine compartment, then through the firewall, then under the dash and up to the A pillars. Sounds harder than it is.
To me, it was definitely worth it. My system sounds infinitely better than the stock Monsoon system.
As far as the door speakers go, well technically, yes, they need to be amplified, either with a separate amp, or the amp built into the receiver you end up going with. I know that many headunits advertise something like 40 wpc, but that's max at high levels of distortion. For real power, you'll have to go with a separate amp. But if you're talking about powering door speakers rated at 80 watts with a separate amp putting out 40 wpc RMS, then no, that's not a problem at all. The other way around would be though (sending 80 wpc to speakers rated at 40 watts per channel.)
 
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