Looking to buy and have some questions

1352 Views 61 Replies 19 Participants Last post by Esteban R Chio, 13 h ago

spelly88

Discussion Starter · 10 d ago (Edited)

Hey all! New member here... I've been wanting a Solstice since I first saw one, but wasn't able to make it happen as it wouldn't be a practical daily driver for me in the Philly area.

I don't need it as a daily driver now so I'm looking into buying one as more of a fun weekend ride. I tried reading through these forums the past few days but I think it would be really helpful to me to just post a few questions and see what I can learn... I really appreciate any help!

I'm hoping to spend under 5k, so hopefully that's enough to get something good. I'm not expecting to put more than a few thousand miles a year on it... I need Automatic transmission.

1. Is there a year/trim I should be looking for? GXP sounds more fun, but is that unrealistic for 5k? If so, what should I be looking for in a base model?

2. I don't really care about color because I was thinking about getting a color wrap professionally installed. Any idea what an estimated cost for that is? I know it varies but wanted a ballpark if possible.

3. How easy is it to get things repaired if necessary? I'm not savvy enough to do things on my own so I'd want to bring it somewhere. Just curious how some of your experiences have been...

4. I assume for my price range it'll be high mileage, most likely over 100k. Do these hold up well over 100k or 150k?

I think these are enough to start, so thank you all for the help!

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OnaWingandaPrayer

· #2 · 10 d ago

Hello and Welcome to the forum. Where I live in FL 5K would not likely find you any dependable Solstice/Sky. I see 06 models regularly @ 8K + . GXP normally over 10K for high milage.
Pontiac has been shuttered since 2009/2010 . Other GM deals can perform a lots of service work . Be aware OEM parts are spotty and often you have to look at auto recylers/dismantlers . Parts that are common to other GM vehicles are mostly available.
I expect others along soon with more insight.
Wish you the best.

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sirwm

· #3 · 10 d ago

There have been many reports of NA cars having over 150k miles...

This contains useful information for new buyers -> What to look for when purchasing

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sirwm

· #4 · 10 d ago

I thought a wrap-job was in the $2,000 area...

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spelly88

Discussion Starter · #5 · 10 d ago

sirwm said:
There have been many reports of NA cars having over 150k miles...

This contains useful information for new buyers -> What to look for when purchasing

I had read through that information but was a little overwhelmed... I'm just hoping to get some simple answers from people with experience here...

As an example, I see a 2008 base model with 149k miles for sale near me. No extra packages from what I can see. Cloth interior... Here is what the dealer had to say:

"It is in drivable condition, the interior is in decent shape too, no rips, or burns, and the interior doesn't smell like a smoker owned it. The passenger door exterior handle pulls out some when you pull on it, there must be a broken clip on the inside of the door...it works, it just pulls out some when opening from the outside. Cosmetically, there's a small mark on the hood, not a dent, but more like a spot that was touched up in the past with silver paint. I feel like the car is definitely used, but drives well!"

He's asking $5900 which seems high to me. Wondering if it's worth trying to haggle or if I should be looking at something else...

JimGXP*

· #6 · 10 d ago

My $.02...
I've had the N/A and the base. They're both fun, but different. For starters, the Base I had was nearly impossible to drive on wet pavement in my area due to the weight of the car, torque and lack of traction control. It could be done, but it took work.

My first solstice I think I stole. she had about 100k on the odometer. Everything was mint, and someone went through the trouble of adding a wonderful aftermarket bluetooth system with great sound and red LEDS to match the interior lights, Fujita F5 CIA, cat delete, custom exhaust, upgraded the injectors, and even put a tune in it. EVERYTHING else was stock and more or less mint! It had been traded in at a used dealership, and the dealer had no idea what it really was and even tried to tell me it was a V6.... (I'm guessing he didn't even google it) He had a very pretty price tag on it. $3,500. I talked him down to $3,000. This price is not typical. I've since seen them pretty trashed for more money.... please go over the car carefully before purchase.

A GXP on the other hand... well, for the most part, I'm seeing them sell for between $12,000 and $15,000 in fair to good shape. I gave $15,000 for mine.
I recommend looking at small dealers and REPUTABLE online market places for better prices. ONLY pay in person, and only after you've driven the car. If it's too far away to go drive it, then it's probably not a good idea. A lot of scammers and shammers out there. INSPECT THE CAR! Look on REAL Pontiac Solstice/Saturn Sky Owners, on facebook for an inspection guide that will help you see what you need to check.

Wraps can be a wide price range. I've seen reports of these cars running from as low as $2,500 up to over $8,500. Keep in mind, wraps will protect the paint that is there, BUT the car will have to have a nearly perfect paint job for a wrap to be applied, else when the wrap is applied it will show, bubble, and/or break the wrap. If your not concerned with the paint, then "bondo" or paint or another product can be used to correct paint chips, but keep in mind that wraps don't last long, especially if you're going to be storing your car outside. Best case scenario, you'll get a few years out a wrap. Worst case it could fade in less than a year.

I have seen a solstice base with over 200,000 and it was still running just fine!

Not a lot of differences between the years except for the coupe version... there are essentially only 2 trims, the base and the GXP. There are several options, stock radios, seats, interior and top colors, "power" seat (it only lifts the seat), and other things to look for, but anything can be changed for a fee.

I would recommend finding something you like in your price range that is in proper working order. Obviously find the best deal and condition you can for the price. Then, if it's not enough power, you can always add and modify as you get the cash. Join communities like this and ask questions. You can even ask if anyone has a part you may want or need. You'd be surprised how many parts are on here!

As for mechanics, first... try to learn a little on your own. It will save you an exceptional amount of money! HOWEVER, if you decide not to try, then I recommend asking around in your area. Car clubs and vintage auto drivers can normally help you find someone who will be respectful to you and your ride.

Good luck in your endeavor, and if can help in anyway, please let me know.

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chickenwire

· #7 · 10 d ago

Jim has some excellent points but I take exception to the base being difficult to drive on wet roads. Tires are key in this area.

$5k is pretty low for anything I've seen in MI that is decent shape.

Reactions: 3

JimGXP*

· #8 · 10 d ago (Edited)

spelly88 said:
I had read through that information but was a little overwhelmed... I'm just hoping to get some simple answers from people with experience here...

As an example, I see a 2008 base model with 149k miles for sale near me. No extra packages from what I can see. Cloth interior... Here is what the dealer had to say:

"It is in drivable condition, the interior is in decent shape too, no rips, or burns, and the interior doesn't smell like a smoker owned it. The passenger door exterior handle pulls out some when you pull on it, there must be a broken clip on the inside of the door...it works, it just pulls out some when opening from the outside. Cosmetically, there's a small mark on the hood, not a dent, but more like a spot that was touched up in the past with silver paint. I feel like the car is definitely used, but drives well!"

He's asking $5900 which seems high to me. Wondering if it's worth trying to haggle or if I should be looking at something else...

I wouldn't pay that price for it, but that's me. Cloth seats, high mileage, Auto, freckles, damaged handle... $3-4,000 range. Just my opinion. Honestly, those things alone are minor. MOST of the owners I've met prefer the manual (like myself) seemingly making them more sought after, but I know you're looking for auto.... the seller doesn't.... keep that in mind. The paint can be fixed, but anyone in a body shop will tell you "touching it up" like that is not the repair, and could be costly. The door is something you can google and fix fairly simply. The parts and tools for that job will have you out maybe $30. Maybe... If you're good at shopping around, it'll be less.

The choice is yours but remember, a Dream is a dream until it's a nightmare. If you're interested, go check it out. Be honest with yourself and find out if that is the car for you. If you're not physically handicapped, most repairs that you're talking about are simple. Can you afford to go to the shop with it if it needs it? Is it worth it to you? Do you want to buy this car, fix the issues (or don't) and use it as a ride until you can afford to sell it for something better? It's your choice, not ours. You'll find one when you're supposed to, but just don't hurry.

Best of luck!

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JimGXP*

· #9 · 10 d ago

chickenwire said:
Jim has some excellent points but I take exception to the base being difficult to drive on wet roads. Tires are key in this area.

$5k is pretty low for anything I've seen in MI that is decent shape.

They were continentals... I don't know. My GXP does exceptionally better, but understand I live in the foothills of the Ozarks. They call the 13 miles I live at one end of "Copperhead Run". It's 69 curves in that 13 miles of highway.... with varying degrees of pitches, banks, off camber turns, and one deadly hairpin curve. I'm not driving on city streets. I've had this discussion with others as well.... it's just more difficult. My GXP still drifts a bit too on wet pavement.

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spelly88

Discussion Starter · #10 · 10 d ago

JimGXP* said:
I wouldn't pay that price for it, but that's me. Cloth seats, high mileage, Auto, freckles, damaged handle... $3-4,000 range. Just my opinion. Honestly, those things alone are minor. MOST of the owners I've met prefer the manual (like myself) seemingly making them more sought after, but I know you're looking for auto.... the seller doesn't.... keep that in mind. The paint can be fixed, but anyone in a body shop will tell you "touching it up" like that is not the repair, and could be costly. The door is something you can google and fix fairly simply. The parts and tools for that job will have you out maybe $30. Maybe... If you're good at shopping around, it'll be less.

The choice is yours but remember, a Dream is a dream until it's a nightmare. If you're interested, go check it out. Be honest with yourself and find out if that is the car for you. If you're not physically handicapped, most repairs that you're talking about are simple. Can you afford to go to the shop with it if it needs it? Is it worth it to you? Do you want to buy this car, fix the issues (or don't) and use it as a ride until you can afford to sell it for something better? It's your choice, not ours. You'll find one when you're supposed to, but just don't hurry.

Best of luck!

Appreciate the info! Not interested in a manual, though I do get the appeal... I know I would certainly prefer a GXP but realistically not seeing any under 10k. I've been debating trying to see if that 149k mile one could be had for around 3k and talk myself into that if so... I have a garage spot for it and wouldn't put many miles on it yearly... The paint "spot" would probably bug me, hence my wrap question. I assumed that would be cheaper than repainting but is that not the case?

JimGXP*

· #11 · 10 d ago

spelly88 said:
Appreciate the info! Not interested in a manual, though I do get the appeal... I know I would certainly prefer a GXP but realistically not seeing any under 10k. I've been debating trying to see if that 149k mile one could be had for around 3k and talk myself into that if so... I have a garage spot for it and wouldn't put many miles on it yearly... The paint "spot" would probably bug me, hence my wrap question. I assumed that would be cheaper than repainting but is that not the case?

You could wrap only the hood, provided you could get a color match. It would be cheaper than the entire cars worth of vinyl. I know you want the Auto, I'm saying the salesman doesn't. Tell him that you were really looking for a manual..... but you're kind of OK with an auto.... if he's motivated, he'll keep going. That can help you feel how much he wants to move the car. If he needs it gone, he'll take less. I wasn't trying to tell you to get a different trans than what you want.
I almost bet you could get it for $3,500 cash. Maybe less. It depends on how well you negotiate.

Reactions: 1

spelly88

Discussion Starter · #12 · 10 d ago

JimGXP* said:
You could wrap only the hood, provided you could get a color match. It would be cheaper than the entire cars worth of vinyl. I know you want the Auto, I'm saying the salesman doesn't. Tell him that you were really looking for a manual..... but you're kind of OK with an auto.... if he's motivated, he'll keep going. That can help you feel how much he wants to move the car. If he needs it gone, he'll take less. I wasn't trying to tell you to get a different trans than what you want.
I almost bet you could get it for $3,500 cash. Maybe less. It depends on how well you negotiate.

Ah I understand, that's good advice, thank you!

JohnWR

· #13 · 10 d ago

I have to agree with @chickenwire that the 2.4 is not that difficult to drive in the wet, as long as you have good tires. The RS-As that were fitted at the factory are notoriously bad on wet roads, for example.

Also, Stabilitrak was an option on the 2.4 in 2008 and standard in 2009.

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Bob Wall

· #14 · 10 d ago

One thing in general handling of all cars,as long as it is predictable, as you get to know your cars traction ability you can adjust driving accordingly.

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chickenwire

· #15 · 10 d ago

JimGXP* said:
They were continentals... I don't know. My GXP does exceptionally better, but understand I live in the foothills of the Ozarks. They call the 13 miles I live at one end of "Copperhead Run". It's 69 curves in that 13 miles of highway.... with varying degrees of pitches, banks, off camber turns, and one deadly hairpin curve. I'm not driving on city streets. I've had this discussion with others as well.... it's just more difficult. My GXP still drifts a bit too on wet pavement.

I wonder if it is understeer due to the lower power of the N/A? As John said, the OEM fitted tires were notoriously bad in rain. Not doubting your experience but I just wonder if you're "drifting" the GXP with the throttle? lol

spelly88

Discussion Starter · #16 · 10 d ago

I realize this is probably a dumb question, but are N/A and Base models the same thing? I.E., not GXP?

JohnWR

· #17 · 10 d ago

spelly88 said:
I realize this is probably a dumb question, but are N/A and Base models the same thing? I.E., not GXP?

Yes.
NA = Base = 2.4

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JohnWR

· #18 · 10 d ago

chickenwire said:
I wonder if it is understeer due to the lower power of the N/A? As John said, the OEM fitted tires were notoriously bad in rain. Not doubting your experience but I just wonder if you're "drifting" the GXP with the throttle? lol

The problem with trying to compare the handling of two different cars is that there are so many variables in most cases that you really cannot do a valid comparison. Are the tires the same? Are they the same age? What about air pressure? Is the alignment the same? Are there any chassis stiffeners? Do they both have LSD? Trying to compare the cars over a time gap is even harder if only because road conditions can change as the asphalt ages, but the real problem is comparing the NA to the GXP (or in my case, RL) since the engines are so different, the final drive ratio is different, and the stiffness of the suspension is different.

Drifting seems to be something it is very difficult (impossible?) to do with Stabilitrak, since that is pretty much what it is designed to prevent, and is why it can be turned (mostly) off when you want to live on the edge.

sprdave

· #19 · 9 d ago

Considering your budget, I would recommend sticking to the NA 2.4. Also you might want to continue saving or make sure you plan to spend several thousand more to address potential maintenance items.

Wunderkind

· #20 · 9 d ago

These cars are around 15 years old. The adage of you get what you pay applies. I think if you sleuth on this forum and probably others, you can see a pattern that cheap = delayed costs.
I find the owner demographics generally maintain their cars well with pride (ie not abused). Therefore it is natural that they'd ask for higher price for them. I would be leery with cheap Solstice/Sky.

2ndly, do you need the accelerative force of the GXP? What is your use case? For most typical top-down cruising experience on a country road, I'd wager the base will not lose out much if at all to a GXP.

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