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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Made a run from Tempe, AZ back to California. My GXP runs great, 208-217 F max during the desert. Filled up before descent to Cali at the pass and after 4 miles gauge went immediately empty with warning. Miles to go stayed at 390. Pulled over at next ramp, checked no leaks, toggled engine and left a message for my wife. After 1 hour it magically came back and re-calc'ed mileage left.

I recently had to have the dash replaced by dealer after a break in.

Does it make any sense a wire might have been left loose or am I looking at something else like computer etc. I really depend on the digital as the gauge normally lights up 'needing gas' around 1/16th so I ride then it with a trip counter no more than 40 miles to gas station. Never ran it dry yet as dealer told me the gauge quits early and its normal to go to empty at 1/16th or so...

cheers.
 

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is there a thread that discusses this treatment and the reasons for it in detail ?

I've only used the stuff a few times in 8 years ( after seeing some thread... )
 

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your fuel sending unit . there is what we call a flat spot in it. the float . so it will read in every other position but totally full . there is a crude system that hooks to the fuel pump. same on every car . so when you start your car all the gages move as they should . my advice is keep driving the car until about a 1/4 tank or less mechanics hate when you bring it in on FULL ! and we will talk some of our fuel pay back for the mess we make lol . keep driving it see if the gage starts to work . if so you know its the fuel sending unit . it also can be tested once out of the tank . just move it up and down with some body watching the gage inside the car. this problem is not common .when on full usually the gage will dance all over the place all the time. this is an educated guess .
 

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your fuel sending unit . there is what we call a flat spot in it. the float . so it will read in every other position but totally full . there is a crude system that hooks to the fuel pump. same on every car . so when you start your car all the gages move as they should . my advice is keep driving the car until about a 1/4 tank or less mechanics hate when you bring it in on FULL ! and we will talk some of our fuel pay back for the mess we make lol . keep driving it see if the gage starts to work . if so you know its the fuel sending unit . it also can be tested once out of the tank . just move it up and down with some body watching the gage inside the car. this problem is not common .when on full usually the gage will dance all over the place all the time. this is an educated guess .
Actually if you read the referenced thread, this is a common problem for GM equipment which does not work well with oxygenated fuels.
 

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First I've heard to this, don't see a recommended maintenance timeframe?

GM 88861013 (US)

Description
Cleans carbon deposits from carburetors, fuel injectors, intake valves, intake ports and combustion chambers. 20 Oz. container treats up to 20 gallons of fuel.
Works in carbureted and fuel injected vehicles. Will not harm catalytic converters.

MSDS can be found in document tab above.
replaces old part number 88861011
 

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only fix it when its broke . it will set you back 500 to 800 bucks depending on the brand part . do NOT buy an ( air tech ) pump junk junk junk !!! bosh is good and ac .
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Not using any treatment, nor have had any engine work done. I think the fill up might have been it as it did come back after 1 hour as I said. I usually let it go to 1/8th like I indicated and then fill up. I could see that the REAL empty was a click space below E on the gauge when it blanked out - just looked odd that the digital did not continue to count down miles left. Usually it puts the empty light on at 1/8th or so and then moves the gage immediately down to a click above E. Maybe the altitude and fill up was abnormally high.. even though it was 390 mileage to go on fill up and I do not top. Normally might get 410+ on a normal fill up in the valley according to digital. I will keep a lookout now as when I travel the desert or other lonely parts I prefer to fill up at right under 1/2. If it repeats I guess its drop the tank time - do not know where the sender is but if its like other GM's it is a job and yes needs to be near empty. Unsure if you meant the fuel treatment helps lube the sending unit rob. If so maybe post what GM thinks is ok.

Many thanks. Pushing 120k and still Aggressive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
BTW, I exclusively use Chevron Techron (Gas that is) and see some posts vs. Additives...

Also saw one post on a GM user site that added Seafoam as an extra additive every 2k. seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-motor-treatment/why-sea-foam-motor-treatment-works/
 

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In this case using fuel additive is like computer backups.

You only need one when you do not have one, and then it is too late.
:agree::agree::agree:

:grouphug:
 

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Not using any treatment, nor have had any engine work done. I think the fill up might have been it as it did come back after 1 hour as I said. I usually let it go to 1/8th like I indicated and then fill up. I could see that the REAL empty was a click space below E on the gauge when it blanked out - just looked odd that the digital did not continue to count down miles left. Usually it puts the empty light on at 1/8th or so and then moves the gage immediately down to a click above E. Maybe the altitude and fill up was abnormally high.. even though it was 390 mileage to go on fill up and I do not top. Normally might get 410+ on a normal fill up in the valley according to digital. I will keep a lookout now as when I travel the desert or other lonely parts I prefer to fill up at right under 1/2. If it repeats I guess its drop the tank time - do not know where the sender is but if its like other GM's it is a job and yes needs to be near empty. Unsure if you meant the fuel treatment helps lube the sending unit rob. If so maybe post what GM thinks is ok.

Many thanks. Pushing 120k and still Aggressive.
If I'm not mistaken, you access the fuel sending unit through a door on the top of the tank. The top of the tank is accessed by another door in the trunk on the top of the "Aztec Temple".

Yogi
 

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I've had my SKY for almost 5 years and have put 27k miles on it. Never used a fuel additive. :skep:
I'm at almost 80K miles, coming up on 9 years old, I also have never added any additives to my NA for any reason (manual says not to add any)... Then again my Sky is a daily driver, it has earned its keep, not a garage princess. This car has been driven, not hard, but driven, its been used... It's in excellent condition to this day mechanically (after all the repairs over the years).. It does need a paint job however.. being in the Florida sun and a couple hurricanes thru the years..:D BUT I have maintained it meticulously as far required recommended maintenance, body etc. AND I will add only used Top Tier fuels...ALWAYS!! Plus used M1 every oil change, plus the filter, oil change so does the filter..
 

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I'm at almost 80K miles, coming up on 9 years old, I also have never added any additives to my NA for any reason (manual says not to add any)...
Really? Mine says this (page 5-6)...

Additives

To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States
are now required to contain additives that help prevent
engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing
the emission control system to work properly. In most
cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel.
However, some gasolines contain only the minimum
amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental
Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors
and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences
problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline
that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also,
your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and
prevent most deposit-related problems.
 

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Really? Mine says this (page 5-6)...
Additives

To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States
are now required to contain additives that help prevent
engine and fuel system deposits from forming, allowing
the emission control system to work properly. In most
cases, you should not have to add anything to the fuel.
However, some gasolines contain only the minimum
amount of additive required to meet U.S. Environmental
Protection Agency regulations. To help keep fuel injectors
and intake valves clean, or if your vehicle experiences
problems due to dirty injectors or valves, look for gasoline
that is advertised as TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. Also,
your dealer/retailer has additives that will help correct and
prevent most deposit-related problems.
For Sky R/L or Pont. GXP that may help the injectors, but not the intake valves. The injectors are inside the comb. cyl. and the gasoline bypasses the intake valves.

There is some evidence that the intake valves still get fouled by PCV vapors, and the valves require mechanical cleaning.

Yogi
 

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I'm at almost 80K miles, coming up on 9 years old, I also have never added any additives to my NA for any reason (manual says not to add any)... Then again my Sky is a daily driver, it has earned its keep, not a garage princess. This car has been driven, not hard, but driven, its been used... It's in excellent condition to this day mechanically (after all the repairs over the years).. It does need a paint job however.. being in the Florida sun and a couple hurricanes thru the years..:D BUT I have maintained it meticulously as far required recommended maintenance, body etc. AND I will add only used Top Tier fuels...ALWAYS!! Plus used M1 every oil change, plus the filter, oil change so does the filter..

I guess that's the key. I also only use top tier fuel.
 
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