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Discussion Starter #1
Asking for a friend! :cool::lol:

As anti-induction cleaning as I've been...I've been thinking about trying it myself with a cleaner. My question is this gents for those that know. Can I pull the evap solenoid and shoot the valve cleaner down there or is that too close to the valves?? I'd rather do it there then in the cold side pipe...unless that would be a better place. I know I've been a staunch supporter of NOT doing this....but I'm at wits end with this vibration and commanded AFR issue and I'm willing to try anything at this point to get rid of these things before I blow up my car!!
 

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I was thinken you may have leeky injector....but I havent a clue about direct injectors. I doubt 1 good cleaning will hurt the turbo.you could alwasy takje it off for the cleaning and have a flanged tube made to reconnect to the cat.....probably...not gonna happen..... but I have been looking and I seriously think the gxp ex manifold on a 2.4 will make more power than the base ex manifold on a 2.4, especialy if it had a seperated flange&2 tubes to merge down stream about 9" then a few inches on into the cat yes it would be basicly a be a loop to the converter on a 2.4. ( aka try Y header ), but back to your issue...yes I would have them cleaned before doing anything else. ( I seem to remember you already cleaned the valves witch can also make a over rich issue when there funked up) I would either try a pour in the tank or a injection method.the injection method would probably work faster and be less likely to possiably affect turbo...( in my head anyway) and on the turbo being affected...was that on peoples cars that ran stuff through way too much?? or...?? another issue with cleanings is....it should be done before the oil is changes as it does dirty the oil.witch will adversely affect the turbo's life. never clean after a oil change, always do it a tank before( for the pour in stuff) and probably atleast half a tank for the injected cleaners. it does send some of the built up cleaned off stuff/funk past the rings into the oil. so....yes do it to your friends car and see how it works out!!!
 

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just a reminder, pouring 'something' in the tank will not reach the valves in a direct injection engine; it's got to go in the intake
Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #4
just a reminder, poring 'something' in the tank will not reach the valves in a direct injection engine; it's got to go in the intake
Bill
No, I understand that. I've been the biggest vocal person against that here!! I was going to pull the evap solenoid and inject some seafoam into that with the car running. Or where the MAP sensor is at on the IC Piping....whichever people think would be better!
 

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You're much better off pulling the intake and cleaning the valves directly. You may also spot a problem in the process.
 

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I recall some others doing what you propose, but not sure where the threads are. As far as I remember they just pulled one of the small vacuum hoses at the intake manifold, and injected there.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Is this a bad spot?

https://youtu.be/H4CqlmUGQ_s

It's where i did mine.
Well...just went out to see if I could do what you sent...and decided just to pull if off to see if it would run...and my car won't even stay running with that tube disconnected!! That's off the wastegate...right? So now you've got me wondering if the wastegate might have something to do with my issues.....:huh::dunno: Who knows what this issue that I have going is from...I'm grasping at straws.
 

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Well...just went out to see if I could do what you sent...and decided just to pull if off to see if it would run...and my car won't even stay running with that tube disconnected!! That's off the wastegate...right? So now you've got me wondering if the wastegate might have something to do with my issues.....:huh::dunno: Who knows what this issue that I have going is from...I'm grasping at straws.
To do what you are proposing I would tee into a line and then adapt my new line so that it will maintain vacuum but allow induction of the cleaner.
 

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You're much better off pulling the intake and cleaning the valves directly. You may also spot a problem in the process.
I agree with this. It's a hassle opening up the intake, but blasting the backs of the valves with walnut shells would be the safest bet.
 

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I thought he already blasted with walnuts....... I musta got confuzed with somebody else. I doubt seafoam will do any thing at all. if it's a injector issue injectiong in the intake wiill do squat. but if it's funked up at the valves that is known to cause a over rich situation.and blasting is the solution. Ive tried oh somany different cleeaners to clean the crap off the backs of valves, nothing but blasting would remove it. I was soaking the valves each in different product.none did squat. a running engine over time could possiably, but not a short time. thus blasting with walnuts.and vacuming out at the same tyme. somebody on flebay had some shopvac attachments 3 d printed for doing so.
 

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The most direct path to the valves without removing the manifold is via the port that connects to the brake booster. There is a barbed fitting that threads into the intake manifold body, with a large hose that goes to the booster.

The correct way to clean the valves is to remove the intake manifold. I walnut blasted, but it's a messy process. You can also use chemical or other mechanical means to get rid of the carbon buildup. Going in via the evap solenoid isn't something that I see working very well.

Removing the intake manifold isn't difficult. The first time it took me about an hour. Now it's a 15 minute process. There are a couple of brackets under the manifold that are conveniently painted black. They're difficult to get out of the way.

Things can be made easier by removing not only the manifold-to-head bolts, but the studs, as well. The head of the studs require a female Torx bit to remove. It is NOT a regular hex pattern. Attempting to use a regular socket will strip the heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Is removing the intake very difficult? You have to remember, you're talking to a guy that had issues doing the thermostat!! Lol
 

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Is removing the intake very difficult? You have to remember, you're talking to a guy that had issues doing the thermostat!! Lol
The thermostat is a major pain. Whoever decided to put the hose clamp above that bolt on the housing should apologize to the community at large.

Removing the LNF intake manifold isn't difficult, per se, but it can take a little time the first time you do it. Most of the removal is obvious - intake hose comes off of the throttle body, really anything that's connected to the manifold. The only difficult parts that I ran into were the bracket that connects the bottom of the manifold to the block. I had to bend it out of the way (after removing bolts) to have enough room to wiggle the manifold out.

You're technically not supposed to re-use the intake manifold gasket. They're cheap.

I removed the studs that the manifold hangs off of that are tapped into the head. That made it a lot easier to get the thing out.

I miss the LE5 manifold. It's very simple, weighs nothing and uses o-rings instead of a gasket.
 

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it sure wood be nice if you could/somebody could.use a camera to have a looksee inside and see the valves&intake port...then do the seafoam and have a look again or r&r the intake a few times. I kinda doubt the sea foam will do squat. it can&will hemp clean the piston tops, but so will h20. if I were to do the seafoam method I would use a restrictor and drive it. not just sit idle and suck some.also there will be a sea of foam on the lower portion on the intake, as it all wont be sucked directly into the cylinders. hmm prehaps project farm needs to test it for cleaning the valves!!!
the crap on the valves does not disolve fast...thus sucking it through as this vid shows does squat for the valves. but it's probably not real good for the cat.
 
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