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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Sick of having the auto-down (only) on the driver window (only) I started looking into developing a circuit to add auto up and down to both side windows (I previously did this in a car I used to own years ago). After searching to see if there were any circuit designs already out there that I could crib from, instead I found the following pre-built module: Amazon.com: Install Essentials 530T Window Automation System. Given it was only $50 and already built and tested, I abandoned my DIY ideas and bought one. What follows is a mini-review and a photo how-to of my installation. Note these modules are advertised at different stores as both "Install Essentials" brand as well as "Directed" brand, but these are actually the same manufacturer.

One caveat here... if you do as I did and mount/wire the module inside the driver door, it is a far easier install (no running wires around the car and into the doors), but it means the auto-function is only available from the driver-side switches. The passenger-door window switch will still work, but as manual up/down only.

OK, so before I get into the installation, let me talk about operation and a quick review. Bottom line, I am extremely happy with how this works and can thoroughly recommend it. Simply tap a switch (up or down) and that window will open/close all the way. Tap the switch again (in either direction) and the window will stop. If you auto down (say) the passenger window and your passenger pulls their switch up, it will override the auto control. Finally, if the module senses over-current (i.e. the window has gone all the way, or there's an obstruction) it will stop the motor. This has the nice side effect of giving you anti-pinch functionality!

NEXT POST: Installation
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Installation

Installation

Disclaimer: I have to state that I take no responsibility for this thread, or you, messing up your car when, or by, following these instructions. This worked for me, but different build date cars may be different and it is up to you to verify that these instructions and steps will work for you and yours. (Other legal disclaimers pending :) )

OK, so first thing to do is remove the driver-side door panel. There are other, more detailed, posts on how to do this (such as: Kappa Specific Sound Deadening Kits). But, basically, you unclip the small panel behind the chrome door latch, and undo the screw there, then undo the screw at the rear edge of the door panel. Then unclip the triangular panel under the main door pull handle and undo the two 7mm-head screws there. Then un-pop the panel with a panel puller, or your fingers, along the bottom edge of the door and slightly up the curve at the rear. Once, the panel is loose, lift the inner panel up off the top lip and lock post. Hold in place with one hand while you unclip the three electrical connectors and slide up and pop off the latch cable from the inside door handle. Carefully set the inner panel aside. (Actually, this is all easier to do than it sounds!)

OK, next step. There are functions (and wires) in the 530t module that I didn't want/need to use (remote window control and aftermarket alarm hookup). If you too don't need these, you can either cut these wires off; loop and tie them out of the way; or, do as I did and just use a dental pick to pull the wires and their pins out of the connector. This shows the three wires I mean (gray, orange and pink/white).




This is a diagram I prepared to show how the module wiring connects to the door harness, as shown from the rear (wiring side) of the connector that goes into the window switches. You should confirm that your wiring looks like this before proceeding - if any wire colors are different, note the changes. The dotted lines and lower-case italics denote the car harness wires and colors. The solid lines and upper-case colors denote the 530t module wiring. Note that some wires in the harness have to be cut, whereas others (ground and 12V) are joined. Also note that there are three ground wires in the module that are all joined to the ground wire in the harness (No, I don't understand why this wasn't done internally in the 530t!):




Next, find a place to mount the module on the door. This is actually harder than I thought, due to the wires, wire anchors and various moldings etc inside the inner panel. I found the ideal position (for me, anyway) was to place it where the bottom right corner of the module was one inch to the left and one inch up from the panel clip hole shown - see the yellow lines/arrows in the following photo. You can drill holes and use screws to mount it if you like, but I just used sticky-back velcro. Please note my door interior will probably not look like yours... I have "SoundDeadenerShowdown" sound insulation installed (the gray mass-loaded vinyl and beige foam), puddle lights (the dangling brown and red wire pair) and Alpine SPR-17S speakers in place of the stock ones.




I chose to cut/splice the wiring at the yellow circle above, above the wire anchor. Strip off a 3"-4" section of the binding tape and cut the wires at different positions so there won't be a big bulge when spliced and taped back up. The following shows the wires cut and stripped - the gray wire is the only one not touched. Note that I just stripped a small section of insulation off the ground and +12V wires where I could solder to. If you are not comfortable with soldering, you could use clamp-on and butt connectors instead. Looking pretty scary here:




Here are all the wires soldered together and heat-shrinked. I used liquid tape painted liberally around the ground and 12V wire joins. Just as verification, the thinner (switch) wires from the 530t module are attached to the connector-end of the cut wires, while the thick (power) wires from the module are connected to the 'speaker' side of the cut harness wires:




Finally, all taped together and ready for the door panel to go back on. But before you actually do that, see the next post!




NEXT POST: Optional Modification
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Optional Modification

Optional Modification

An optional (but highly recommended) step to perform is to disable the standard auto-down function in the Solstice. First, I would be very worried about the two auto-circuits 'fighting it out'. But just as importantly, if you don't do this, it disables the 'tap-again-to-stop' functionality of the 530t module on the driver side auto-down. The downside, is that this is modifying the core functions of your Solstice, and makes it a bit more difficult to "return to stock", should you ever want to do that.

OK so, let's gird our loins and proceed! Go find the inner door panel you so carefully set aside, and locate the inside of the window switch module. This was mine, complete with a complimentary piece of black duct tape from the factory!




Peel back the tape (if you have it too) and insert a pry bar along the top edge of the white casing to lever out the bottom panel of the switch module. Here it is loose, you may just be able to see the three clip-tabs in the photo. Note that this bottom panel is clipped into the overall, black, switch module, which is clipped in turn into the white door molding.




Now you can remove the bottom panel, and the circuit board will fall out (no clips or screws):




Here is the top of the circuit board, showing the gray driver-window slider switch. I would've preferred to be able to cut a trace to disable the auto function, but the PCB is a multi-layer board, and the trace is hidden. So instead, you have to cut the metal strip from the switch into the board. This is the thin metal strip identified by the yellow arrow:




Pry the metal strip a little bit away from the switch body with a dental pick or thin screwdriver (already done in photo above) and then snip it with a pair of wire clippers. Bend the two ends apart to ensure they don't make accidental contact, as shown here:




If you do ever need to "return to stock" you can re-bridge the two ends of the cut strip with some wire and solder.

Now place the circuit board back into the switch assembly (first make SURE the tab on the gray slider switch is in the central position - align it with the silk-screened mark on the PCB). Then clip the bottom plate back on and re-tape if necessary.

NEXT POST: Testing and Final Reassembly
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Testing and Final Reassembly

Testing and Final Reassembly

The final stage is to make sure you connected everything right, and also make sure the dip-switch settings on the 530t module are correct for your car. These dip-switches control the over-current detection circuitry, and may need to be altered for your particular car windows. In my case the factory settings worked fine except for the passenger window-up operation. For some reason my passenger window is sticky apparently and I had to adjust the settings to HIGH to get it to close without stopping (dip switches all off). Your settings may not be so problematic, but if you have any issues with windows stopping in mid journey, go up a level setting at a time until it works OK (the DIP settings are covered in the small printed manual that comes with the 530t).

So, find a cardboard box about 7-8" inches tall and place it under the door. Rest the bottom edge of the inner door panel on it and re-connect the (modified) harness to the window switches. Turn the car on (a helper would be nice) and test the window operation [NOTE: the roof should be up to test the windows against the resistance of the weatherstripping]. If all works fine, you're good to go. If the windows work, but stop in mid-flow or don't close completely, then adjust the DIP switch settings as noted above.

Once all is working, you can go ahead and replace the inner panel. Connect the rest of the wiring connectors, and lastly the door latch cable. If you don't know the 'trick' this step can be a royal pain, so I'll pass this on to you as it was passed on to me at MMM6 (thanks Bryan!). When you pulled the cable off the door latch handle at the start, it will look like this:




Before you try to attach it back on the latch handle, push the hammerhead cable-end up into the circular molding as shown here:




Now when you slide the cable end molding back down onto the latch, the hammerhead will automatically release into place in the door handle. It's truly magic!

Lift the inner door panel onto the ledge at the top (and over the lock-pull) and clip and rescrew back together. You're finished!
 

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this is TERRIFIC!!!

I have one thought besides that I want to do it;

There are functions (and wires) in the 530t module that I didn't want/need to use (remote window control)
I would REALLY like that too!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
this is TERRIFIC!!!

I have one thought besides that I want to do it;

(Remote window control)

I would REALLY like that too!
Sorry, but there's no way (that I know of) to get that signal/functionality out of the factory remote/alarm. Aftermarket remotes/alarms may have signals for this, but I'm sure you don't want to do that! :)
 

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Sorry, but there's no way (that I know of) to get that signal/functionality out of the factory remote/alarm. Aftermarket remotes/alarms may have signals for this, but I'm sure you don't want to do that! :)
I would not mind at all carrying two fobs
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Added small edit to above... If/when testing your install, be sure to have the roof up as the roof weatherstripping will add resistance to the motor when the windows are near the top. Your DIP switch settings may be affected. Thanks.
 

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Way to go, Soup! So detailed even I could do it!

Thanks for sharing this info! :thumbs:
 

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Nice job as usual Soup, I had this same kit tied into the alarm on a car a few years ago, lock the car windows went up, hit it again, they dropped 2 inches to vent the car, hit again they went down. All the cool stuff is out there, if you are adventurous like Soup.

And for your next trick?
 

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Nice writeup... I set another car up the same way with a $20 PAC TR7 module to assign the second & third unlock pulse to the 530T. I've had the solstice for about a week; may take this one on next.

I wrapped a tie-wrap around the pax door release cable after the last owner had the cam rise, jam, and break the interior door handle. When I get the driver's door panel off, it's next.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Had a question on the kappaperf forum on how this all works, and also got a couple of PM's with similar questions, so here for your edification...

From the factory, there are two wires out of the door switch module to each (driver and passenger) window motor and these wires normally rest at ground. Let's say the driver window is up. If you press the driver-down switch, it switches +12V to the "down" wire of the window motor, leaving the other wire at ground, thus the motor turns, moving the window down. Similarly if the window is down and you pull 'up' on the switch, it switches the "up" wire to 12V leaving the "down" wire at ground, the motor turns in the other direction and the window moves up. Easy!

This 530t module just sits in the middle of these wires - between the door switches and the motor. It detects activation of the door switches by sensing if any wire has 12V switched to it. It then latches 12V power to the relevant window motor wire, but detects over-current (or possibly AC noise) across the motor when it is slowed or stopped, so it can cut the power when the window reaches the end of it's travel.

So, just 2 wires to each motor, 2 wires from each switch (total 8 wires) plus ground and +12V for the power.

Hope that makes sense!
 

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I ordered from *bay and got it shipped for $62. Installed it the same day thanks to Soup's detailed in instruction and wiring by color. Works like a charm. We'll see if when the weather gets colder the window resistance changes but my dip switches are all in up position.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If you go to WebElectric Products they also sell lots of electric stuff for cars.
Kind of a non-sequitur? They only thing they seem to have for the Sol/Sky is an (expensive) brake light pulser that seems to be the same one GM Roadster has, but more costly. ??
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I ordered from *bay and got it shipped for $62. Installed it the same day thanks to Soup's detailed in instruction and wiring by color. Works like a charm. We'll see if when the weather gets colder the window resistance changes but my dip switches are all in up position.
Thanks Norm. I found a doc on how to change an internal resistor(s) to give an even higher power setting. So if "high" turns out not to be enough, you can bump it more :)

See: http://www.p71interceptor.com/windowmodule/techtip1900ocr.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Why is it important to make sure that the tab on the gray slider switch is in the central position? Will it have something to do with the switch assembly?
Because if you don't, the tab on the switch won't align with the notch in the (spring centered) button and the driver side won't work when you put it back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I was just reminded of this mod by another thread and noticed it's just past it's two-year anniversary! Still works great and one of my most useful mods - can't remember how I got by without it :)
 
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